So...i finally replaced my clutch with a 5th gen clutch. I ordered the parts through everythingnissan.com and put them in this week. I ordered the disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and slave cylinder. Before i changed my clutch, my cv boots were ripped for a while, and because of that, i heard a click click click noise from what i thought were my broken cv joints. I replaced the clutch assemby, and bought remanufactured axles from autozone with new joints and boots. The click click noise still remains after the swap, and it varies with speed. I can only hear it going slowly in first, because when i speed up the motor overpowers it.

The cv boot was extremely stiff when i put it in, and i only have about 20 miles on the clutch, so is it just the boot wearing in, and the grease getting put into place, or is the joint bad? I only hear it on one side. Could it be anything else besides the axles?

Also, when the clutch is out, and the car is in neutral, i can hear a noise coming from under the hood. I replaced the throwout bearing, but could it be the input shaft?

Thanks for all the help so far guys

 

Also, the shifter moves easily from neutral into 3rd, 4th, 5th, and reverse, but it wont move to the left to the neutral in between 1st and 2nd. Any suggestions? Shift Linkage?

 

Not sure about the other problems but i think you might wanna check your shifter linkage and possibly the shifter bushing.

 

As it sounded to me when I read it on Motorvate the click click click noise was only supposed to happen on broken CVs when you have the wheel fully turned.

Is the noise on both sides or just one?

When I did my boots, I only repaced the boots not the whole axle. When the CVs are degreased they are pretty tough to move. Once I had the new boot on with the new grease I manually rotated it maybe 10 times which worked the grease into the joint. After that the CVs were easier to move (re: fluid movement) than when I took them off.

It's hard to really say because your interpretation of a stiff CV might be different from mine. As I said though I manually rotated it about 10 times after which I think the grease was pretty well broken into the joint so I would think you would get the same effect if you have driven it around the block.

The only thing besides the CV that it might be is maybe the front wheel bearing? I have never had a problem with mine but looking at the right up on motorvate it seems like if there was a problem with them it *could* also produce a clicking noise. Again I am only speculating but if you are dealing with a new CV/axle then that is mostly ruled out unless it is faulty.

The guide for front wheel bearings is right here.

 

The click click noise is not that of a wheel bearing. My friend had a bad bearing on his subaru, and this noise is a lot worse. My noise did happen before i replaced the axles, so i just hope it is a faulty axle because i have a warranty on it and they aren't that hard to change

EDIT: Could it possibly be the wheel bearing. If i hold by tire at 9 and 3 on the clock, i can shake it back and forth. Is that the wheel bearing?

 

Depends on where it's moving, if the spindle is not moving with the tire/brake rotor, then yes its play in the bearing,,,,if the spindle DOES move with the tire, then check out your tierods.

 

where is the spindle?

 

Can i please get some more help?

 

spindle = where the strut mounts to. also where the axle sticks through and where the tie rod is mounted to. the whole thing is called the spindle, and the smaller portion with your 5 wheel studs is called the hub assembly.

wheel bearings dont click unless it is too late. they hum when they get bad, and have nothing to do with turning. bad bearings act the same going left right or straight.

you said you hear it with the car in nuetral. if the car is still and you hear it in nuetral is it either the motor itself or the transmission.

if the car is coasting in nuetral and you hear it it could be bad axles, or a very loose tie rod end coupled with a wobbling wheel. also a chance of it being the ball joint but i doubt it as that would only knock when tunring the wheel hard (usually when not moving) or when you hit a bump.

jack up the car. take off the wheel. hold the HUB (5 wheel studs) and move it up and down. any play........bad bearings. no play, hold the sides of the spindle and move it back and forth horizontally. look at the tie rod and see if there is any play. best way to heck the ball joint is to remove the 2 bolts holding the strut in place and see how easily that spindle drops, or if it knocks when you play with it. no noise for any of the 3, most likely the axle.

before doing any of this, start the car, nuetral it and listen for the clicking with the car standing still. if you hear it, it is none of the above and no need to check.

 

and with regards to your shifting, make sure you have used GL-4. Redline, Specialty Formulations or Amsoil are often referred to.