Today I went out and bought a can of the CRC Electronic Cleaner and CRC Throttle Body Cleaner. I went ahead and cleaned both the MAF sensor and the TB as per the writeups on here and motorvate.

Now, the car starts and idles perfectly, but anytime I go WOT or close to it there is absolutley no fuel being added, as I can hear a ridiculous amount of air being sucked in (CAI) but there is no torque whatsoever. Also, in second and third gear when I go WOT the car rocks from front to back, similar to what it will do if you suck with a manual transmission.

Any idea what I may have effed up? I know some of the throttle body cleaner probably got pretty deep into the TB. Also, there was a lot of gunk inside the TB that I could not get to as it was too far back to reach. The MAF cleaning seemed to go perfectly, I sprayed off the sensor wire and the iside of the tubing then wiped dirt off the screen with a clean rag. It all looked sparkly new and perfect afterwards. Any idea what I may have effed up?

 

maybe you forgot to plug in some hoses and/or wires?

 

I checked and rechecked everything, I don't think I missed any.

 

Might have fouled your plugs from too much cleaner. Pull em and check.

Personally I wouldnt dare spray anything on the maf sensor. That baby is really senative and to go spraying anything on there is risky business regardless of how many people say they "do it all the time with no problem"

-matt

 

What should I check for when looking at the plugs?

 

check to see if the plugs are black. Is the car throwing any codes? It sounds like you could be missing, my car was doing that when my plugs were toast.

 

I'm gonna pull codes tomorrow when it's not so dark and freezing cold. Is there any writeup for getting to the plugs? I've never done it before.

 

well your first problem was that you used electronic cleaner on the MAF instead of there MAF cleaner. Then you weren't supposed to wipe down the screen or any part of the MAF because it is very sensitive and there cleaner dries up very very very fast for that reason.

 

Well I just lightly wiped off the screen, didn't damage it at all. And the cleaner says it's for delicate electronic sensors, seemed like the right stuff, there was no specific MAF cleaner at Advance.

 

the cleaner may be for "delicate electronic sensors", but the MAF wires themselves aren't really all that electronic. One wire is insulated, while the other is not, and the MAF throws back voltage signals depending on the temperature difference between the two wires. In theory, the air flow rate is proportional to the difference, since one wire is heated and is cooled by the flowing air. This is also where the air temperature sensor comes into play.

 

ive cleaned my MAF twice now by pouing rubbing alcohol over it, and letting it dry, no problems so far

 

lol i always thoughroly (sp?) wipe down the screen and dry the rest with a hair dryer... maybe i got lucky?

 

WOW!! Are you serious? I didn't even touch my wire or anything cleaning my MAF. I mean it said so right on the bottle DO NOT TOUCH THE WIRE! so i sprayed it down let it dry and that's it. I'd say you did get lucky. But i wouldn't do that again...but that's just me.

 

i cleaned my maf and ended up buying a new one. never clean a maf with any type of electronic cleaner. its better to replace it!
EDIT: nissan dont recommend cleaning the maf.

 

Pulled codes this morning, got 0505, no fault detected. Ugh.

 

Get a new MAF and a set of plugs.

-matt

 

I pulled a plug and the white tip and basically all the threads are covered in some sort of black corrosion. Guess I'll be shelling out the cash for a new set. Anyone know the best price for Bosch plats and where to get them?

After researching the Bosch Plats a bit on the web I've heard not so good things about them. Is there any plug you guys would recommend?

 

Just get a set of NGK Coppers. They are perfect and only about $2/per plug

-matt

 

NGK iridium. $6 a peice last for 100k
i had bosch plat 2 in my 01 max and i drove 20k on them then threw away in trash and replaced with NGK iridium.

 

I bought a set of the iridiums and put them in. Problem is definitely improved, but there's still major hesitation as soon as it gets above 3000 rpm. The weird part is, if I have it sitting in my driveway in neutral and rev it it'll shoot all the way up to redline, but when I'm actually driving it just dies above 3000. I guess it's the MAF. This is turning out to be a costly mistake

 

I'm almost postive its ur maf now.. since u replaced the plugs!

Dont worry everyone makes mistakes, atleast u learn from them

 

That's not how our MAF sensor works.

 

as i said i cleaned my maf and it went bad i installed new one. so you did the same thing. just buy a new maf the problem fixed. make sure you take it to dealer for ECM reprogramming which recommended.

 

Why would I need the ECU reprogrammed?

 

Check your TPS. Same symptoms as with my 300zx a while ago, rough jerking motion. Either the contacts are corroded and loose or your TPS may have FAILED. It was intermittent for a while but after a little bit it wasn't just first or second gear anymore, it started doing that to me on the freeway at 70 mph.

 

well on 00+ maxima's it requires ecm reprogramming when the new maf is installed. dont know about your car but i am prety sure its the same recommendation.
and ecm reprogramming brings you better gas mileage plus the new maf benefits.

 

Well I don't have any more money to waste so I'm hoping I can just live without it for now.

 

Update - Got the MAF and installed it tonight. Still have slight hesitation until about 3000 rpm at which point it pulls like a mother. Is it possible that the ecu needs to relearn the fact that it can actually add fuel at lower rpms, or will it have to be reprogrammed? I only ran with the bad sensor for <70 miles.

 

Proof please. Looked through the EC section of the 2001 FSM and see no such programming required.

 

man they are going to have you buying a whole damned new engine byt he time you are done. ECU does nothave to be "reprogrammed". your MAF was probably just fine. go buy new gaskets and clean the throttle body and IACValve properly. that means take them off and clean thoroughly. you prob spray the TB and sprayed the stuff right into the IAC Valve. CRC Electronics cleaner will nto kill your MAF so you bought that for nothing. cleaning the TB while still onadn doing a partial cleaning can do more bad than good (depending). pretty sure this $10 in spray and 65 minutes of labor will solve your problem. leave it up to the guys here and you will buy a new intake manifold, set of coil packs and replace every sensor on the car. if youneed details on taking off the TB and IAC Valve let me know and i can email you a writeup. the motorvate one sucks (to me)

 

Yeah, please email them to me. wassup2114@adelphia.net

And where can I buy gaskets for it?

 

mail. dumb question...........changed your air and fuel filters? a bad enough clog in those could cause this.



autozone may have the gaskets, but if not get them from the dealer. not absolutely necessary, but may as well do it right. keep us updated.

 

I've gone through and cleaned the entire intake assembly from the filter all the way up to the TB. I didn't oil the air filter because of the bad things I've heard. But I doubt it's the fuel filter, there were no problems whatsoever until I messed with the MAF and TB, I doubt it just coincidentally got clogged. If I clean the TB and IACV thoroughly and still have the problem I guess that will be my next course of action.