blackmaxx96

iTrader: (23)

I posted a thread about this maybe 6 or 7 months ago and got nothing... hopefully someone has figured this out by now...

Here's my problem.
I've had code 09-01, and 10-01 for almost a year now I guess...
09-01 has been on and off, and now it's back on.
I've replace the front AND rear o2 sensor twice now... Brand new bosch plug and play.

I've put in new plugs, sea-foamed, cleaned IACV and everything...
I don't understand why it's still throwing these codes....
Is there a way that I can hard wire the o2 sensors into the ECU itself??
Or a way to check if it's the actual F'ing wiring harness????

Here are my symptoms:
The car will be running fine, then when I come to a stop and put it in neutral it'll start to idle really weak, dip down to about 300 rpm, and if I give it some gas it'll will try to stay alive, then die.
If I keep my foot on the gas it'll idle around 1500 or so but be really rough as well.

It's also bucked really hard while cruising in any gear.
Like the car will want to cut off then catch right back.
My gas mileage has also sucked.
I'm right at half a tank and i've only gone 132 miles and i've been babying it....

I'm getting seriously sick of this and i'm ready to take it to a shop, but theres nothing they can do that I already haven't.
Other than telling me I need a brand new wiring harness or some **** like that.

Any input will be appreciated!

Thanks,

Mike

0901
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0901 points to a problem with the Front Heated Oxygen Sensor, Right Bank. The right cylinder bank is also called the rear bank. It is cylinders 1,3,5.

The Front Heated Oxygen Sensors are installed in the Y-pipe, the part of the exhaust system which conveys exhaust gases from the exhaust manifolds to the Catalytic Converter. There is an Oxygen Sensor in each branch of the Y-pipe. These sensors produce a signal which varies with the concentration of oxygen in the exhaust gas, as compared to the outside air. This signal is sent to the Engine Control Module which uses it to control the fuel injection system.

DTC 0901 is detected when the current drawn by the heating element in the Oxygen Sensor is out of the normal range.
Possible causes include ...
- harness or connectors (the sensor circuit is open or shorted.)
- a defective Front Heated Oxygen Sensor (right bank).


The heated Oxygen Sensors have two components: a heating element and a sensing element. The heating element may be tested with an ordinary ohmmeter. This test is done with the engine off.

Follow the wires away from the Oxygen Sensor until you find the nearest electrical connector. Disconnect the connector. Viewed with the connector latch at the 12 o'clock position, there are three terminals. They are numbered 1-3, right to left. Be sure to measure the terminals in the connector half which is attached to the Oxygen Sensor, not the one which leads to the Engine Control Unit.

Measure the resistance between terminals 1 and 3.
The factory spec is 2.3-4.3 ohms at 77 degrees Fahrenheit.

Measure the resistance between terminals 1 and 2.
The reading should be infinity (no connection).

Measure the resistance between terminals 2 and 3.
The reading should be infinity (no connection).

If the resistance measurements are significantly different from the factory specifications the sensor is faulty and must be replaced.

If the resistance measurements meet the factory specifications the sensor may be good and the wiring is defective. You could exchange the two Front Heated Oxygen Sensors and reset the Engine Control Module. Then drive normally and expect the Malfunction Indicator Lamp to turn on again. If you still get DTC 0901 the wiring is faulty. If you get DTC 1001 the sensor is bad.

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

first off, stop seafoaming. it does nothing but foul plugs. want proof? take out a plug and simply look inside. you will be disgusted. that brings us to the possible source of your problem. new plugs. you could have hurt them doing the seafoam. if you change them make sure to gap them as all plugs come 0.40 and we need 0.44. also make sure your engine temp sensor is plugged in and coolant is topped up. If you want to try a cheap solution for the plugs, use some coppers. cost you abotu $13 and tell you right away if it is the plugs or not.

blackmaxx96

iTrader: (23)

First off, do some actual research on sea-foam and you'll see that you're wrong.
Seafoam was before new plugs either way, and i've used it on all my vehicles.....and i'm number 8 in the past two years at this point...
If done correctly seafoam is great stuff...

Also, NGK's should NOT be gapped.
I don't know what kind of cheap spark plugs you're buying... but good plugs will come pre-gapped.

I've done all other maintenance on the car, and the issue is something deeper.
This has been an on-going ordeal for almost a year.

Chefasaurus

iTrader: (4)

it's to my knowledge (keep in mind, this is strictly my experience from rotaries, and a LOT of RX-7 racing...), that NGK's are consistently the better part of .005 - .010 off from the desired gap of .055 (on a 13B j-bridgeport). However... that's not to say that they are wrong... it's just personal preference/piece of mind to make sure every plug is gapped to spec.


Has your knock sensor been replaced? If you've got some time to spare, cleaning out the EGR tube is good for a SOLID afternoon...

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

I'd love to see your proof of how seafoam is "great stuff" aside fromt he white smoke it creates. Carbon burns black, oil burns blue so the white is nothing more than the stuff you put in burning off. Research to you may be an online forum but where is your proof. Second, all plugs need to have their gaps checked (cheap or not) and NGK's are the ones that come 0.40 genius. Do you really think NGK makes that plug only for the 4th gen maxima? I guess the pregap it only for us and all other vehicles are the only ones that have to adjust their gapping. Now perhaps the fact that this has been an ongoing issue for almost a year should indicate to you that although you feel really cool putting seafoam in yoru car.............you really dont know much.

TAPOUT

iTrader: (5)

Wow, tough crowd. A seafoam debate from an electrical issue.

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

no debate here. "wow my car was smoking like crazy. i must have had tons of carbon in there!"~ he wins.

Dexter

agreed, seafoaming really doesn't make any logical sense, if you wanna clean out the gunk in your car don't half-a$$ and set aside an afternoon and remove the TB, IACV, EGR Tube, and Manifold and with some TB cleaner and elbow grease you should be good to go...

blackmaxx96

iTrader: (23)

I'm not half-assing it by using sea-foam.
I've had Nissan mechanics with 30+ years of experience tell me that sea-foam is a good product to use in addition to routine maintenance.
Two weeks ago I replaced the fuel filter, cleaned TB, IACV, EGR tube, re-did my blehmco grounding kit, put in ES LCA bushings, new tie rods, and sway bar bushings. I definitely call that half assing it..................................

Secondly, I didn't sayt that I don't CHECK the gap on the plugs.
I always do that.
But NGK platinum +4's come pre-gapped.

You trying to tell me I don't know how to take care of, or work on my car is not what I posted this thread for....
And if you want to start an argument about that.
I've done a engine swaps in an RX-7, rebult a 7MGTE as well as four different american V8's.
Done two supra engine swaps.
That's just to leave it with the engines....I can go on...
But i'm not gonna call you out on what, you have, or haven't done... and what you're capable of because that's just petty bull****.
If you have an issue with me, do it through PM.
Otherwise please leave my thread alone so that it can stay on topic and my issue can be discussed.

Dexter

no issues, i'm just sayin...

when I bought my NGK plats they were a bit off-spec and needed SOME of gapping (about 4 notches below spec) nothing significant i'm sure but meh...

and about the seafoam, i've read the procedure and maybe it's because i don't have enough experience but I don't see how that would be effective towards cleaning out the engine (plus i've been told that feeding it through the brake line would only let it reach half the cylinders...) so untill it makes sense to me i'm not willing to try it, i'd rather take a day and manually clean out the manifold because IMO unless your looking at it you wont know how hard you have to clean, and from what I saw with the EGR tube that build-up can be a B!tch to get to (remember diamonds are the hardest thing on earth and they are made of highly compacted carbon)

anyways good luck with your problem

oh and BOSCH makes **** spark-plugs, I had ALOT of problems coming up with some Quad-Fires (rough idle, poor mileage, shytty throttle response) and they all went away when I switched to NGK Plats

Batxel

iTrader: (1)

Amazing that you can pull off engine swaps but are too lazy to pull of an intake manifold.

blackmaxx96

iTrader: (23)

Dexter- no worries, that wasn't directed to you.
If I can get some time i'll be taking everything off again and will be putting it in a vat for a 2 hour soak :-)

Batxel-Very informative post..........
Seeing as how I work 60+ hours a week and i'm doing motorcycle detailing and winterizing for the next month and a half leaves me with alot of time to do that now doesn't it.
G.T.F.O..... that is all

Dexter

if I could get a vat of TB cleaner I'd b willing to let the manifold soak overnight
(TB Cleaner -><-Carbon Build-Up) , and let that sucker clean itself...

Batxel

iTrader: (1)

Wasn't meant to be informative. You act as if no one else here works. You're the one with the broke car asking for help. I just find it strange how you work on cars all day long but can't fix your own.