What is the best oil for a maxima when its cold out? I have been using 10w30. what is best?

 

10w30 is bad. want proof? take a bottle of 10w30 and put it in the freezer. then shake it or try to pour it. then imagine a cold engine trying to pump that up at startup. the "best" oil is a fully synthetic 0w30. My suggestion, Castrol Syntec 0w30 "European Formula". It has to say "made in germany" on the back. Only available at Auto Zone. Mobil1, Amsoil Penzoil Platinum etc are all good too.

 

just use 5w30, and call it a day!

 

General statements like these should be taken with a grain of salt.
First: I have 263,xxx miles on my car and Castrol 10w-30 is what I use YEAR ROUND. That's 263,xxx miles on the ORIGINAL ENGINE. Even in NC we DO get freezing and below freezing temperatures, so if advice like that is given, some empirical evidence should be given to provide proof. I don't even have to top up between oil changes.
When I was lived in Iowa with 2 feet of snow and sub-zero wind chills, the car I had then also used 10W with no issues. That car, btw the way, was my first car- a 1988 Escort GT, that I put 142,xxx miles on before I wrecked it at a track event after I had moved back down south.

Second: While the Maxima is special to us, it's not the only car out there. Think about it. Just about every vehicle since the mid-90's has close tolerances like ours. I think if 10w-30 is so bad, then there would be a whole lot more engine/oil related issues than we hear about.

The bottom line: 5W is great, but if you've been using 10W with no issues, I fail to see the reason for switching just because it's cold.

 

leaded gasoline, 87 octane and copper plugs worked for tons of cars for very long periods of time. why switch to unleaded 93 and platinum/iridium?

pure synthetics clean. lubricate better. reduce engine wear and cost less (considering oil change intervals).

 

I put 5w30 few months ago and in six months I will go back to 10w30 or 10w40 after winter is over.

5w30 is recommended by nissan, but I think since I have 190k miles on my car it's better to use 10w when it's not so cold outside.

 

5w30 as well.

 

That's just natural progression. The switch to unleaded and better plugs is primarily for emissions and then performance. The only cars cars that use leaded gas now are pure race cars.
I'm not debating the fact that synthetics have better performance. But to tell the poster that regular 10w is bad simply because its viscosity increases when its cold is not, IMO, fully correct. Even synthetic oil gets a little thicker when its cold. It just doesn't do it as fast or as much.
Not everyone can afford/or have the time to switch to different viscosities depending on the season.
If his engine has a lot of miles and he's burning some oil, then it doesn't make any sense to switch to synthetic. We don't KNOW the condition of his engine. So based on the question he asked, I didn't think the answer gave him ALL the info he needed.
One more thing: Look at the viscosity chart in the owners manual. While Nissan says 5W is PREFERRED, 10W works just as good down to 0F. Unless one lives in the Great Frozen North, 10W does the same job.

 

my '97 has 165K on the odo, and I have had it since 40K. I always used Castrol GTX 5w-30 every 4k miles because that is what nissan recommended, but the last year or so, I have been burning a little bit of oil. Putting in a full quart between oil changes. My mechanic friend (40 years experience in big rigs and performance cars) told me to switch to Castrol 10w-40 high mileage, and that it would have no negative effect on the car. He said it would be fine even in the winter , but that I should let it warm up a bit (which I always do anyway) if temps are in the single digits. I have done 2 oil changes since I switched, and I am now adding less between changes, maybe 16 oz. 5w-30 is still recommended being that it is thinner, but there is technically nothing wrong with 10w-30 or 10w-40, so if its been working, keep with it.

 

i put some 10w30 mobil 1 syn in mine the last change. man, its so smooth in the upper rpms.. hehe i love it

 

actually it might have been 5w.. >_> i'll check the bottle when i get back to the shop after xmas and let ya know

 

+1 On Castrol 0w-30

10w will work, in the same way your car will run on 87 octane, hect you could run the car year round on 20w-50, but this isnt a question of what will work, its a question of what will work best...

And for that Mobil one 5-30, or Castrol syntec euro formula 0-30

 

FYI most damage to your motor occurs during 2 periods. 1) during idle and 2)during cold startups. So letting it "warm up" (while idling) definately cant be good.
(for normal daily driving that is).

 

i also have 263,000ish miles on my original motor(never had a rebuild) and i run royal purple 5w-30 and i have never had an issue with it.

 

I just got the car, so I don't know what is in it now, or what it has run for the last 170,000 miles. I bought oil yesterday to do a change before the winter and I got Castrol GTX 5W-30 and a Bosch filter.

 

When it's real cold out, I start it up and let it run for a bit. I don't want my kid getting into a real cold car. At the most I let it idle for about three to five minutes. Then I load lil' man up and I'm off. I guess different situations for different people.
When I had a garage it was a different story. Just crank and go.

 

Good call on the GTX, steer clear of the bosch if you can, id use a Mobil One, anything made by Purolator, Wix, or a K&N...if you can

Bosch was ok until in 2003 (IIRC) they switched production to mexico...nuff said

 

Ummm. NO damage occurs to an engine during idle . . . not sure who told yout that, but I wouldn't believe another word they tell you. You are ALWAYS supposed to let an engine come up the temp before "giving it the berries" as they say in England.

Start-up is the most stressfull time on the engine though, I will give you that. But not letting it warm up? C'mon, man, you'll wreck an engine faster than you know if you start it and gun it. Oil has settled, block is colder, and all of a sudden you gun it and drive off, you can do a lot of damage then . . . you gotta let the oil become more fluid and get to where its gotta be before you start revving it.

The thing with 5w vs 10w (these numbers refers to the winter viscosity) . . . they both lubricate very well, however the 5w, being thinner when cold, offers less resistance (easier to move it around). When your car is burning oil, as mine is, it is ussually because your rings are a little worn and oil is bypassing them more than it should, getting into the cylinder and being consumed. The thicker properties of the 10w allow less oil to sneak past the rings, hence burning less, while still offering lubrication . . . keep in mind, at this point, because the rings are worn, there are larger clearances between the cylinder wall and the ring anyway, so you don't need the thinness of the 5w to get it in there. On top of it all, the High Mileage formulation has special seal conditioners in it to stop any seapage as well as special polymers which help the oil stick to surfaces rather than be burned off.

 

no damage occurs during idle (which by the way is when minimal oil flow is occuring)? not sure who told YOU that but if i were you i wouldnt listen to them. and as for "giving it the berries" no one said anything about starting the car and punching it WOT. as for oil buring, the OP mentioned nothing about oil burning and a good cleaning is a better way to reduce oil consumption than just adding a thicker cold weight oil (that will only cause more problems during a cold startup).

 

I should rephrase . . . The most engine wear occurs during start up. We know that. The time when the car is idling up to temp is the second most wear inducing, you're right. BUt you said,"So letting it "warm up" (while idling) definately cant be good. (for normal daily driving that is)." Wrong. The way you put it implies you shouldn't let it warm up, and just drive off, as if that is the better alternative. I'm not sure if that is what you meant, but thats how it sounds. Engine wear is going to occur either way, just a matter how much and how quickly. NOT letting it warm up will make it happen faster, whether your at normal driving RPM's or WOT.

And although a good cleaning on a newer engine that doesn't burn oil is important and will make engine components last longer, a good cleaning is not a better method of reducing oil consumption on an engine that burns a little. It would actually make it worse. Obviously new rings and valves would be best, but when clearances are increased due to wear, a "better cleaning" would only make these clearances larger as well as remove any varnish and deposits from seals, increasing oil consumption as you get more leaks and blow-by. Giving a higher mileage engine that burns a litte oil a "good cleaning" is a common reason for them to fail soon afterwards.

 

well, now that no one has answered the op's question in a reasonable way...

10w30 is perfectly good oil, i use it year round. i also live in florida, and my car is almost never driven in freezing temperatures. you should switch to 5w30 or 0w30 for the winter, and you could use 5w30 all year if you wanted to.

full synthetics are usually the best, check the fluids and lubricants forum for recommendations or ideas on dino oils or blends.

 

Up until last year, the Mobil One and Bosch Premium filters were identical in every way except for the paint on the can. Last year Mobil1 updated them a little bit.

But they still have the same filter medium, same construction, but the Bosch is 1/2 price. I've used Bosch filters for the last 3 years and never had a problem, not once. I suppose I should spend $20 and cut apart one of each to verify this, but I see no justifiable reason.

Can you shed some light on this? While I get tired of arguments based solely one one persons experience, I'm searching in my mind for anything that could back up your assertion. Everything I can think of disagrees.

Dave

 

Just put on the filter and it said "made in the USA"

 

You should be fine for one oil change, but generally stay away from bosch, also made in the USA might not mean assembled in USA, or the label, or outter canister may be made here, anyway last i knew bosch=mexico...


Also, whoever said let your car get up to temp before driving is plain dumb, all that does is dump gas into your oil, and gas is not a very good lubricant. Now letting it warm up (while driving gently) before punching it is very important (it takes usually about 15 min for your oil to reach full temp) but unless its real real real cold (as in 0 degrees F or less) get in and drive gently, if it is that cold, 30 secconds, then drive.

 

So... Castrol GTX 5W-30 for someone who lives in Ohio with 30 fahrenheit degrees weather during the winter?

 

10w-30 should be fine for the winter, especially if the winter in Philly continues to be as it's been until now...

But if you want to be extra sure, 5w-30 or 0w-30 would work. Believe it or not, most 0w-30s are thicker than most 5w-30s except at the lowest possible temps -- which are lower than Philly ever sees. But, either one will be a good improvement over 10w-30 when it's cold out.


IMO, here are the best oils. Tier 1 - best protection, longest change intervals:

- Amsoil Series 2000 0w-30 (a.k.a. TSO)
- Castrol Syntec 0w-30 European Formula (MUST say "Made in Germany" on the back).


Tier 2 - Almost as good as Tier 1, and cheaper:

- Amsoil 5w-30 (a.k.a. ASL)
- Redline 5w-30


Tier 3:

- Amsoil XL Series 5w-30 (XLF)
- Mobil 1 5w-30
- Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30


And if you don't drive hard, don't want to push very long change intervals, and want to save some money, definitely use Castrol GTX 5w-30.


As for oil filters, Amsoil EaO filters are the best, but they're expensive. The next best are NAPA Gold (made by WIX), K&N, and Mobil 1. If you're pinching pennies, go with Purolater PureOne.

 

Mobil 1 performance driving 10w-40 to me itz workz da best because anything less the oil iz not thcik enough 5w-30 thin like water when da engine iz hot....many say 5-30 yea but not me 10w-40 I see the difference....

 

http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru...e=0#Post711581

go read and learn because the statement you just made is completely wrong (not to mention "da zpellin")

 

Sometimes thick oil makes you think your engine is running better because it deadens sound and vibrations. The problem is that if it's too thick, it might not get into all the little tiny spaces in your engine. So, while it feels okay on the outside, it might be wearing down faster on the inside. That's why you can't really go on what you "feel". You HAVE to do an oil analysis to be able to tell for sure what is good for your engine.

 

a few comments:

- Syntec 0W30 (a great oil) is actually thicker (at all temperatures down to about -10F) than almost every 5w30 and 10w30 on the market.

- so, to say 10W30 is too thick in winter and 0W30 is better for cold starts is not necessarily true (it depends on which 10W, and at what temp).

- I know this does not make any sense to most people -- but you have to understand how oils are graded (and marketed for that matter) to get it. you must also understand viscosity specs, and how viscosity changes over temperature, etc etc. it is much more complex than just 10W vs 5W, etc.

HAVING SAID THAT -- in my opinion, a thinner 30wt oil is better for colder temperatures. BUT, since not all 0W/5Ws are thinner than 10W at the temperatures we normally see in the mainland US, you the consumer must do some research (e.g. look up the data sheets) to see which oils are actually thinner -- you cannot just judge by the viscosity grade on the bottle!

Cases in point -- Syntec 0W30 and Maxlife Syn 5W30 are both thicker than most 10W30s at most temperatures. Only when it gets REALLY cold (like -10F) do those oils become thinner than 10Ws. Why would oil companies do this? in the case of Syntec 0W30 it is marketing (to meet the mercedes 229.5 spec), for Maxlife I'm not quite sure.

on the topic of cold start/warm-up/idle --- I believe the best strategy is to start, wait for the oil to flow to the top end**, and then drive EASY until at least 10 minutes AFTER the temp gauge reaches normal operating temp (oil takes longer to heat than coolant)

**to figure out how long it takes for oil to flow to the top end, you start the car cold (after sitting overnight), look inside the filler cap with a flashlight, and watch for oil to gush from the lifters. at first it will start slowly, then will pour out. it is easier to see with dirty/black oil. do this at a few different temps to calibrate, and use that as a guide for your daily starts. for me, it is about 30 seconds at 60F, 60sec at 20F, and 90sec at 10F with a "typical" 30wt. (this will vary depending on the relative thickness of the oil you are using and the performance of your filter's ADBV)

the danger with excessive idling at cold start is fuel dilution. cold starts dump a lot of raw gas into the CC, and it will wash down the cylinder walls and get into the oil. the longer you idle the worse it will get. once the oil is flowing full there is no reason to continue idling.

 

I've put on about 100k miles (136k total) on my '97 GLE. I've always used Castrol, mostly 10w30 GTX. The last oil change I finally tried Syntec 5w30. I find that I'm getting better gas mileage than ever. I'm getting 25+ mpg now. I was getting 21-22 mpg before. This is all combo city - highway. My engine doesn't consume any detectable amount of oil between 5k mile changes.

 

Word!

Mobile 1 5W-30 Winter and Mobile 1 10W-30 Summer

Buy it by the 5 Quart jug at Walmart and it's darn affordable.