some times it can be a pain, but loosen the hose clamps, some needle nose pliers are usually in order, then there is a bolt or two holding the hard pipe to the intake manifold that you can take out to give you a little more play, then just yank 'er out.
you may be able to leave the clamp holding the hose to the pcv valve and undo the hose from the hard pipe and the pcv valve may come out with the hose

i'm pretty sure unbolting the throttle cables wont give you any extra room to work with

 

Hey RIT,

Your reasoning sounds logical as per the coolant sensor. My car doesn't start like this everytime. How expensive a fix is this?

 

gen4maxima536 : what bolts ?

i was thinking i unclamp the bottom of the hose, take it off and inside is the PCV valve ( like as if the hose is covering it )

 

well i replaced the PCV valve today with my dad it was ok no problems, the thik black hose that covered it was hinda tough to get off but we got it

took off 2 throttle body 10mm bolts and one more bolt from the back, the IACV thingy i think it is (the tube that goes from the PCV valve to something else) seemed dark and dirty with deposits on the inside, but maybe its not the IACV i duno

the old PCV was broken it was obvious, when compared to the new one it was open on the inside and was dirty and clogged inside of the grey part

total cost : $18.80 including tax (ontario, canada 14%) for the PCV valve from Nissan Dealer and about an hour of work

PS: i got pictures of everything, how do i post them here ?

 

Did it solve your stalling problem?

 

Andrei, How can you have a GXE with heated seats? Unless it's a Canada exclusive, GXEs did not come with the heated seat option.

Try running a separate wire from one of the two starter bolts to any bolt on the other side of the transmission and to the negative battery terminal.

 

well so far i have started the car several times while traveling and it had not happened, but the problem was more or less random to begin with.

well i dont believe ANY Gle ever came with cloth seats, now thats why i have a 97 GXE with heated seats, sunroof, and ABS breaks.

and i dont have white gauges so its not a SE either.

but the ground wiring is a great idea, i may have to explore that in the coming summer!

 

The canadian Model Maxima's have a few odd ball options. I would guess that if it were -30 outside it would be kinda hard on leather seats. Besides that cloth heated seats actualy are realy comfy. We did a conversion on a Silverado and made a set of one off heated cloth seats. Tehy were very very nice. Any ways let us know if that fixed you car. mine has been doing a similar thing lately.

 

problem persists, replaced the PCV valve and it still does it, did it twice today both when ice cold in the morning and after work

the car appears to die just upon startup and the rpm wabbles several hundred up and down, then she goes to 1000 rpm and steadily rises to about 1300 rpm for cold idle and the engine returns to normal operation and as she warms up the rpm falls to normal idle of 600 rpm-----sometimes she does actually die after startup, when she starts other times she starts perfectly without any hesitation, i have NEVER had this problem when the car is warm after driving it!!! is it a coolant or a temperature sensor problem ?

this problem is getting on my nerves

 

anybody out there ?? can someone help plzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

 

hello all and andrei3333,

I have the same issue on first start up of the day and if the car has been sitting for 8 hours or more. I changed the Engine Coolant temp sensor yesterday per some previous advice on this thread. Wow!! What a buger to get at. But again my car started the same way this morning. She kicks up to 1500 rpms back down to 200-300 rpms and tries to come back up to idle; but then she dies; UNLESS I give her a little gas. I am going to check my PCV tonight also. I was told to reset the computer by removing the positive cable from battery. Maybe that will work at resetting the engine coolant temp sensor. Luckily the engine coolant temp senor was only $23 and 2 hours of my labor. This is frustrating. Could it be fuel filter? Could it be vaccum lines? Again it only does it on first start up of day and especially when cold as we had temps in the teens las night. Any advice? Air intake sensor? If it was any of these it seems that I would have the start up problem all the time. Please Help!!

 

Hello all,
I was having the same issue. Now my 99 I30 wont start at all. I never got the gas smell. The motor would turn over and turn over. Up untill Last night I was under the impression that it was a bad ground. At this point with "CHENNEL" (My girl named her) not starting, I am very confussed. Lights work, radio and CD player works, interior everything works, except the door lights and the chimm when key is still in the ignition. That hasn't worked since I became the second owner. Anyways, I have my mechanic coming over and looking to see what he might figure.

I have read several posts here. They were all informitable. What I have done is taken notes for my mechanic on all that I have read.

Thanks for letting reply.

 

Hello,

I am having the same cold start problem on a 2000 I30. I have not tested the coolant sensor yet myself, but while searching on the Web I have seen a thread in CarSpace forums where the cause of a similar problem on a 2000 Maxima turned out to be a clogged EGR valve tube. You can see the thread at the following URL:

http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/dir...ew/.ef48e89/76.

If I understood correctly, the intake manifold had to be removed to clean things up in that case. Is there a way to test if this might be the problem without having to do that?

Also, while I was looking at the I30 service manual, I noticed that there is a temperature sensor in the EGR circuit. I am wondering if anyone knows whether or not that sensor could cause this type of problem.

Thanks.

 

You shouldnt have to remove the IM if it is the same as the 4th gen. If you are getting a code for the sensor it is most likely clogged and not bad.

 

Hey I realize this thread is old, but it sounds like your catalytic converter might be damaged or clogged... fyi

 

This is kinda interesting... I had the same thing happen to me. This occurred after I removed one of the two 10mm bolts on the throttle body, the one next to the accelerator cables. I had been working with that area and after replacing it, I left the car alone for about 3 hours. After going back out to start it, the car would turn, sounded like a dead battery but just before it would catch it would die. Did this about 3 times before I stepped on the accelerator and it finally kicked up, ran rough for about 5 seconds or so and then was steady at about 1300-1500 rpms for the cold start... Not sure, freak thing. Only happened once. BTW... Same thing with the battery and accessories working, no problem with the electrical.