So when yall are saying that the 3.5 "drinks oil" it is not burning the oil, like slipping past the rings, it is coming out of the pressure relief valve on the head?

Both are possible, but basically all of them do the catch can thing that I know of.. The burning oil issue is passing the rings and that's a definite problem (once again, only certain 3.5's have that particular problem).

I still would be pissed a little, but power would make up for it.. The one I wouldn't want is a "headgasket eater" as the guys at Nissan called it.

It's unfortunate that nissan skimped out on the FWD 3.5 headgaskets. They're 2-layer as opposed to the 3-layer 350Z/G35/FX35 etc. RWD gaskets.

Are they still the same thickness? I would imagine so. Hmmm, maybe I should upgrade before I run into problems

Is there any way to determine which manufacturing periods are especially notorious or especially reliable, as I am looking to buy the 3.5 in the near future?

Also, I am not familiar with the composition of the maxima's 3.5's, but has anyone tried dropping in some ARP head studs and torquing them way down? I run 22psi on my eclipse daily with an felpro head gasket (found at most auto stores) torqued to 90ft lbs and my buddy runs 35 psi on his evo with the same stock replacement gasket. If it is torqued down enough it should be hard for oil, or combustion to really start getting into the layers and destroying them.

Oil burning has nothing to do with the head gaskets failing. Furthermore, the stock head bolts are fine to around 450 WHP or so.

Now if you're talking about preventing the headgaskets from failing, the OEM 3-layer 350Z is a cheap upgrade. ARP hardware is unnecessary until very high HP levels.

But why do that?
You risk the chance of stripping out the block or the head.
Just get a MHG, or some sort of upgraded head gasket, ARP studs and torque em to their specs.
Another 80-150 bucks for a good head gasket and correct assembly is well worth it.

I'm pretty sure the Evo's head gasket's are part metal composition... Not to mention the engines are built for boost, unlike the VQ35.

PS: What year is your eclipse??

Mike

He's referring to ARP studs/nuts. There is a 0% chance of stripping out the block.
All VQ35 head gaskets are MLS. The OEM 3-layer 350Z HG is a good, cheap upgrade.




BTW, ARP hardware is COMPLETELY unnecessary on an n/a or mildly boosted (circa 400 WHP) 3.5 except for their rod bolts if you plan on revving past 7100 RPM or so. Over on my350z.com, ARP L19 head studs are used when the horsepower goals are in the 500+ WHP range.

My eclipse is a 99 gst (for sale) I have been a hardcore DSM guy for a long time, but I want to get into the maxima thing.

I know I'm a noob but...If a leak is small enough in the headgasket it is possible for it to burn oil and can also be accompanied by overheating. My buddy was burning a little oil on his eclipse on stock boost when he cranked up the boost it blew. We took it apart and there were two flaws in the HG, one was huge where it had blown, and there was another very small indention from the cylinder to an oil passageway which had been causing his oil buring problem.

I am going to call tilley tomorrow and see what he say, but I do like the idea or a boosted 3.0. I just need to nail down some prices, so far I know what the s/c kit cause and I seen a full turbo kit for 3100 just need a price on a 3.5swap now

The only reason I suggested the head bolts is because its easier and cheaper than the head gasket option, but definately not necessary for lower hp levels.

brs2c.

Shoot me an e-mail with the specs/pictures of your eclipse...
I would like to talk with you about it.
blackmaxx96@yahoo.com.

Thanks,

Mike

BTW... welcome to the .org!

Well the OEM 350Z head gasket is like 60-70 bux for both and combine that with 16 new OEM head bolts for 81 bux and you've got a solid setup that can handle 450 WHP. The ARP head studs cost like $225 on their own. If you you want 500 WHP and beyond i'd get ARP L19 studs and either a Cometic or HKS HG and start building the bottom end. But this is a moot point because most VQ35's will never come close to these HP levels.


BTW, welcome to the VQ game.

Thanks for the welcomes guys, and Blackmaxx96 I sent u an email but I am not allowed to PM u yet.

Hey what do you guys think about rear mounted turbo setup in the boosted forum

I'll wait for my 3-5HR, and in turn I'll be as old as you when I finally reach that goal..

dont forget about tavarish ...or even maybe tjmax

10frijoles

I don't think you got it.

No replacement for displacement. Go 3.5. You can add an S/C and NX later.

who burned up headgaskets? Mine is running quite fine, and with careful hands, eyes, patience and some know how the swap can be done quite sucessfully.

yeah I was trying to pm them but the member search is down so I looking for a thread they posted on

I miss Tavarish..



Nismology- I prefer to keep it positive, I got it don't worry..

hehe i wish i was in nyc/nj and not 500 miles away, sigh

3.5 and jst keep your n/x kit

just kidding.

thanks I am signing up now

Douche shuttle..

3.5 swap you'll run approx. 13.8 with just the swap and youll have a newer engine, and think what if you were to S/C or drop a turbo in that???? man im guessing mid 11's- low 12's

I checked the link and Tavarish posted 2200 for the swap motor included, not bad. I leaning toward the 3.5swap with a 75 shot of nitrous

if it waz me i would get a 3.5 swap best way 2 go n da long run it would be way better trust....i heard 1/4 time iz like low 14s high 13s top.....yeaaa

well the s/c is no longer in the picture, I will be getting either the 3.5 swap or rear mounted turbo setup.

I am currently pricing parts for the turbo and getting some specs on a smaller turbo with less lag want the boost around 3200rpms. I going to wait a few weeks to see how street's project works out

I think with the rear mounted setup you may not be able to run as much boost as some may like. a 3.5 will be a nice Hp gain from a stock y piped Max. Add a 75 shot and I think you'll be satisfied for while.

well if I run the turbo setup I will only be running a max 8psi and at the track a 50shot of nitrous from 0-3500rpm to get out the hole

but if I go with the 3.5swap what you said mdeezy is excatly what I will be running .. with a 3.5 I am hoping for mid-high 13 sec n/a and low 13 to high 12sec nitrous 75shot

I ran a 13.8 w/ a 2.3 60ft.. With a good launch I believe I could have gotten a 13.4-13.5

I am guessing thats with a n/a 3.5swap ... 5-speed or auto?

well like I said I will wait a few weeks see how streetz setup is working out do more research but if all else fails 3.5 with a 75shot here I come