My engine seems to hick'up when I'm going easy on the peddle. It seemes like I may need to get the fule enjection system cleaned but I don't know for sure.

When I'm going up hill and just goign easy on my peddle, it starts the hick'up thing.

When I'm pressing on the gas a little bit heavier, it starts thing lagging as if its the ecu confused on how much gas to release konw what I mean? I don't even konw if that can happen but just seems like there might be a connection there?

 

Any insight?

 

you really need to post up both mileage on car, and tune-up/service info. Since I have to 'geuss' whether or not you've recently done your plugs and fuel filter, that might be a good place to start. Also, ks is a common problem that happens and you won't know that you have a 'ghost code' until your check engine light turns on for something else and you have it scanned and find out your getting a knock-sensor code. Very easy to check codes w/flat-head screw driver and service manual or autozone

 

Go buy some feul injection cleaner for like 7-10 bucks,Check your o2 sensors and your knock sensors for any fault or just not working. Thats the best i can tell ya for now. Good luck with it

 

where do I get a service manual? The engine light is on. I have 160k on the engine, most recent tuneup was 120k (at least thats what the previous owner said). Dont' think the plugs have been replaced. Sounds like a nice place to start.

I'm also getting a clicking sound when I turn... either directions. Tie rods? Ranck and pinion?. It vibrates when I'm driving over 65 but that seems to be because of the tires... yea I got issues but I am trying to get everything fixed. I just got her...

 

I tried the feul injection cleaner... several times, several companies. No luck there. How do I check the o2 sensors? Is it somethign I can do or do I have to have it checked out?

 

Don't change the O2 sensors. Just do the plugs and fuel filter, they're most likely the problem. And pull codes.

 

The o2 sensors have nothing to do with what youre talking about. The ticking could be coming from a faulty knock sensor even. If i were you change the plugs and fuel filters. If no luck, change injectors and maybe KS if it has not yet been replaced.

 

thanks guys, I'll try it out.

 

I had the same problem for quite some time. When I dropped the clutch on first gear to get the car moving the engine would hesitate alittle. Then just a couple of days ago the engine started to vibrate while I was gasing it up and within 15 minutes or so it threw a cylinder 4 misfire code. I swaped the coils to make sure they weren't the problem and then I ordered a new fuel injector which I just installed about an hour ago. So it turns out that the injector was causing the problem.

 

Clicking when you turn one or both outer CV joints, check the boots and look for any tears or grease that's been thrown around. phatg20.net has the FSM, or get a Haynes manual. Check the codes.

 

My dad had a 99 Toyota Solara with only 50K miles and last fall his car started to have the same exact symptoms. So he figured that after owning it for 8 years and even though it only had 50K miles, he brought it in for a tune up at the local shop. (He has stopped working on cars becuase he doesnt have the time or patience to work on them). So the shop changed the plugs, filers, ect. and they found one fuel injector to be faulty. They replaced the 1 injector and sent him on his way. $700 in parts/labor. 3 weeks later the cars starts to run like hell again, even worse than the first time. My dad brought it back to the shop and they told him to run a fuel injector cleaner along with 93 gas for one tank. They said to drive the car hard and to burn the gas asap.

It only got worse over the next week. He had enough with it and brought it back to the shop, and they ended up replacing the 5 other injectors, as 2 more had been faulty. (WHY THE **** DIDNT THEY CHANGE THEM IN THE FIRST PLACE?!) Pissed me off a whole lot cause he gets a $1400 bill for replacing 5 injectors. Anyways, $2500 dollars later the mechanic tells him that he isnt even sure that the car was fixed and he would trade it in if he owned the car. I was livid when i heard this news. They put ******* $2500 into his car and they wont even guarantee that it will run good. WTF IS THIS??? So he traded in the car and it sure was a sad day. I loved the ****ing thing...and it only had 50K miles on it. He was planning on passing it down to me, but I got a Max shortly after he traded it in so its all good now. I sure do miss it tho...

 

Step 1 is to make sure you are caught up on maintenance items. Plugs, filters etc. Once you are up-to-date with the regualr stuff, and if it is still running like crap, THEN start worrying about troubleshooting.

 

Well, not exactly...

The clicking on turns is indeed a CV joint in the axle, just replace the axle on the same side as the direction of turn upon which is clicks (clicks on a left turn, left axle replacement).

Fuel filter, correct sparkplugs, and Knock Sensor are important maintenance, so dont waste any time with those.

But as far as the O2 sensors are concerned, they might be exactly what is causing your hesitation. You see, in an electronic port fuel injection system the ECU calculates short term and long term fuel trim by means of analyzing the O2 sensor signals in closed loop mode. Closed loop is triggered by your engine coolant temperature sensor, so that means your ecu only takes those readings when the car is warmed up. I would replace your upstream O2 sensors if I were you. Your fuel injectors might be clogged as well, but it could also be your fuel pump. At 160K you should expect to do a significant amount of maintenance. Hope everything works out, good luck!

 

ok the knocking while turing... I'm getting 2 answers from everyone. Either the CV boot axels or tie rods. Either way it costs a grip on these cars. But I don't want to change 1 thing and still have it not work properly as the guy with the toyota above... any suggestions?

 

Oh man, that shop played your father like a flute The sad thing is, they prolly didnt even have the training to properly diagnose the issue in the first place. Its always better to take the car back to the dealership if you get into a situation where there is a mystery problem on a relatively new vehicle, they have the best diagnostic equipment for their model cars, and they guarantee their work.

 

IMO, I would have brought it to the dealership or more than one garage before he spent 2500. I dont even think the stealership would have charged him this much and they would have guaranteed the car to run properly. He had trouble with the local Toyota dealer before so I think that is why he avoided them, but who knows. He got $9200 for it when he traded it in, which was pretty good. Im only sad to see him driving a 07 Honda Civic.... Although, my car is faster than his now....

 

Check for a vacuum leak.

 

same here