New rotors and brakepads.... verrry weak
#1
OK, I put on stillen cross drilled on the front, and axxis pads all the way around today..
broke them in from what I knew, correctly (can anyone post the correct procedure for doing the breakin?)
now the problem is, as soon as I put them in and set my car back down, the brake pedal has to be pushed in WAY far before they work... and they dont seem to work very well. Did I do something wrong? Do they need more breakin time?
I compressed the pistons to make them fit over the pads, and had to drain a tad of brake fluid too but its up to the MAX line... ? I almost went off the road tonight b/c I came to a T and couldnt stop fast enough, so I need a solution.. THANKS!
broke them in from what I knew, correctly (can anyone post the correct procedure for doing the breakin?)
now the problem is, as soon as I put them in and set my car back down, the brake pedal has to be pushed in WAY far before they work... and they dont seem to work very well. Did I do something wrong? Do they need more breakin time?
I compressed the pistons to make them fit over the pads, and had to drain a tad of brake fluid too but its up to the MAX line... ? I almost went off the road tonight b/c I came to a T and couldnt stop fast enough, so I need a solution.. THANKS!
#2
What sort of break-in method did you use? For how long? Did you clean the rotors with gasoline or some other solvent to get that anti-corrosion goo off of them (I assume thats anti-corrosion stuff on there anyways. But you are supposed to get it off regardless.)
#3
I don't get it? What do you mean 'after you put them in and set your car down' after break in?
Breaking them in basically means to take it easy on the brakes for the initial couple of hundred miles... I know there are formal ways but that is basically it.
If you need to push the pedal WAY down then you either have some contamination on the friction surface and pad... or you have air in your brake lines.
Baer Racing have some 'bedding' instructions which are similar and informative... LINK
Breaking them in basically means to take it easy on the brakes for the initial couple of hundred miles... I know there are formal ways but that is basically it.
If you need to push the pedal WAY down then you either have some contamination on the friction surface and pad... or you have air in your brake lines.
Baer Racing have some 'bedding' instructions which are similar and informative... LINK
#7
Spongy or low pedal?
Originally posted by hlh0501
how do I bleed my lines, b/c my guess is I do have air in them....
I am a big mechanic as you can now tell...
how do I bleed my lines, b/c my guess is I do have air in them....
I am a big mechanic as you can now tell...
The principal symptom of air in the lines is a spongy pedal, not a low pedal. A normal pad replacement job does not involve opening the hydraulic system, so you would not expect to get air in the lines.
#8
Re: Spongy or low pedal?
Originally posted by Daniel B. Martin
Is your pedal low or is it spongy? This is an important distinction.
The principal symptom of air in the lines is a spongy pedal, not a low pedal. A normal pad replacement job does not involve opening the hydraulic system, so you would not expect to get air in the lines.
Is your pedal low or is it spongy? This is an important distinction.
The principal symptom of air in the lines is a spongy pedal, not a low pedal. A normal pad replacement job does not involve opening the hydraulic system, so you would not expect to get air in the lines.
My pedal, I have to push about 1-2 to 2/3 way down before I get any braking power... then once its like almost all the way down it brakes normal... I cant ever get them too hook up REALLLLL good like slamming them on (I almost wrecked, well, went off the road b/c of that)
oh well, I am about to last resort take it to the house.. oh I mean $hop ahh
#9
Re: Re: Spongy or low pedal?
Originally posted by hlh0501
What is sprongy? ...
What is sprongy? ...
A "spongy" brake pedal is almost always caused by air in the hydraulic lines. Your description suggests that you bled the brakes correctly. Something is wrong with your brake system.
In your initial post to this thread you said you installed new front rotors. Did you compare the thickness of the new rotors with the old ones? They should have been about the same.
#10
My experience with the crossed drilled rotors is that you should be easy on them for 350 miles. If you're driving faster than 35 miles per hour during break-in, you are looking for an accident. Take your time and break them in. Mine are fine and you shouldn't have had to bleed the lines.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BPuff57
Advanced Suspension, Chassis, and Braking
33
04-16-2020 05:15 AM
spencerwh1
Maximas for Sale / Wanted
4
06-30-2016 05:44 AM