4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999) Visit the 4th Generation forum to ask specific questions or find out more about the 4th Generation Maxima.

New rotors and brakepads.... verrry weak

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-06-2001, 11:28 PM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
hlh0501's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,371
OK, I put on stillen cross drilled on the front, and axxis pads all the way around today..

broke them in from what I knew, correctly (can anyone post the correct procedure for doing the breakin?)

now the problem is, as soon as I put them in and set my car back down, the brake pedal has to be pushed in WAY far before they work... and they dont seem to work very well. Did I do something wrong? Do they need more breakin time?

I compressed the pistons to make them fit over the pads, and had to drain a tad of brake fluid too but its up to the MAX line... ? I almost went off the road tonight b/c I came to a T and couldnt stop fast enough, so I need a solution.. THANKS!
hlh0501 is offline  
Old 07-06-2001, 11:40 PM
  #2  
SLOW
iTrader: (23)
 
Nealoc187's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: West burbs, Chicago
Posts: 14,631
What sort of break-in method did you use? For how long? Did you clean the rotors with gasoline or some other solvent to get that anti-corrosion goo off of them (I assume thats anti-corrosion stuff on there anyways. But you are supposed to get it off regardless.)
Nealoc187 is offline  
Old 07-07-2001, 12:05 AM
  #3  
My other car is a Hybrid
iTrader: (1)
 
Chunger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: SoCal
Posts: 3,825
I don't get it? What do you mean 'after you put them in and set your car down' after break in?

Breaking them in basically means to take it easy on the brakes for the initial couple of hundred miles... I know there are formal ways but that is basically it.

If you need to push the pedal WAY down then you either have some contamination on the friction surface and pad... or you have air in your brake lines.

Baer Racing have some 'bedding' instructions which are similar and informative... LINK
Chunger is offline  
Old 07-07-2001, 07:36 AM
  #4  
Senior Member
 
Ravq's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 1,857
Definitely rebleed them!
Ravq is offline  
Old 07-07-2001, 08:26 AM
  #5  
i SeE what you did therE
iTrader: (21)
 
redmaxpa007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: the DAMN south
Posts: 41,704
i just installed the same thing last weekend... didn't have any problems...


initially the breaks were weak till the gold was rubbed off, but now they are great.!!!
redmaxpa007 is offline  
Old 07-07-2001, 09:06 AM
  #6  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
hlh0501's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,371
stupid question....

how do I bleed my lines, b/c my guess is I do have air in them....

I am a big mechanic as you can now tell...
hlh0501 is offline  
Old 07-07-2001, 10:54 AM
  #7  
Senior Member
 
Daniel B. Martin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,601
Spongy or low pedal?

Originally posted by hlh0501
how do I bleed my lines, b/c my guess is I do have air in them....

I am a big mechanic as you can now tell...
Is your pedal low or is it spongy? This is an important distinction.

The principal symptom of air in the lines is a spongy pedal, not a low pedal. A normal pad replacement job does not involve opening the hydraulic system, so you would not expect to get air in the lines.
Daniel B. Martin is offline  
Old 07-07-2001, 09:35 PM
  #8  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
hlh0501's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,371
Re: Spongy or low pedal?

Originally posted by Daniel B. Martin
Is your pedal low or is it spongy? This is an important distinction.

The principal symptom of air in the lines is a spongy pedal, not a low pedal. A normal pad replacement job does not involve opening the hydraulic system, so you would not expect to get air in the lines.
What is sprongy? I attempted to bleed my lines today.. I took all the rims off, and went from left rear, to right r, to left f, to right front.. on each one I pumped the brakes 6-12 times till it was hard and held down on the last pump, while a friend opened the lines, let the fluid squirt out, then close it back... I did it 3 times on each back tire, and 4 on each front... put the rims back on, it was a little better... not too much though.

My pedal, I have to push about 1-2 to 2/3 way down before I get any braking power... then once its like almost all the way down it brakes normal... I cant ever get them too hook up REALLLLL good like slamming them on (I almost wrecked, well, went off the road b/c of that)

oh well, I am about to last resort take it to the house.. oh I mean $hop ahh
hlh0501 is offline  
Old 07-08-2001, 07:37 AM
  #9  
Senior Member
 
Daniel B. Martin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,601
Re: Re: Spongy or low pedal?

Originally posted by hlh0501
What is sprongy? ...
The normal brake pedal "feel" is this: you can press the pedal down a certain distance, usually one-third of its total travel, and hit a point of rock-hard resistance. Once you hit that point, you can double or triple the force applied to the pedal and it won't move down any further. In contrast, a "spongy" pedal doesn't have any point of rock-hard resistance. As you press the pedal down you will feel some resistance and if you press harder the pedal goes down further with more resistance. It feels as if you were stepping on a sponge, hence the descriptive term "spongy".

A "spongy" brake pedal is almost always caused by air in the hydraulic lines. Your description suggests that you bled the brakes correctly. Something is wrong with your brake system.

In your initial post to this thread you said you installed new front rotors. Did you compare the thickness of the new rotors with the old ones? They should have been about the same.
Daniel B. Martin is offline  
Old 07-08-2001, 07:48 AM
  #10  
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (3)
 
deezo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: FV, NC
Posts: 14,287
My experience with the crossed drilled rotors is that you should be easy on them for 350 miles. If you're driving faster than 35 miles per hour during break-in, you are looking for an accident. Take your time and break them in. Mine are fine and you shouldn't have had to bleed the lines.
deezo is offline  
Old 07-08-2001, 10:11 AM
  #11  
...needs to please stop post whoring.
iTrader: (3)
 
NickStam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,727
Get a shop manual They help alot.
NickStam is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BPuff57
Advanced Suspension, Chassis, and Braking
33
04-16-2020 05:15 AM
spencerwh1
Maximas for Sale / Wanted
4
06-30-2016 05:44 AM
Socalstillen
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
1
09-26-2015 12:01 PM
beerman1378
7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015)
1
09-08-2015 02:19 PM
crazyespn
New Member Introductions
0
09-03-2015 01:30 PM



Quick Reply: New rotors and brakepads.... verrry weak



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 10:40 AM.