SFCs on eBay...
Originally Posted by phenryiv1
Stage 1, 2 , or 3?
here's a pic of my ws stage two..
http://www.alphonse562.com/maxima/4sale/DSC00015.JPG
i didnt know there was a 3rd stage that was available? link? pic?
Yes i have coilovers, they're on a medium-hard setting, but not full stiff.. I do drive my car hard, and I know exactly how it reacts to a mod. Like i said in the beginning, in my car I did NOT feel any diffrence in: cornering, going over bumps, or just driving.
Originally Posted by 1FSTMAX
here's a pic of my ws stage two..
http://www.alphonse562.com/maxima/4sale/DSC00015.JPG
i didnt know there was a 3rd stage that was available? link? pic?
Yes i have coilovers, they're on a medium-hard setting, but not full stiff.. I do drive my car hard, and I know exactly how it reacts to a mod. Like i said in the beginning, in my car I did NOT feel any diffrence in: cornering, going over bumps, or just driving.
http://www.alphonse562.com/maxima/4sale/DSC00015.JPG
i didnt know there was a 3rd stage that was available? link? pic?
Yes i have coilovers, they're on a medium-hard setting, but not full stiff.. I do drive my car hard, and I know exactly how it reacts to a mod. Like i said in the beginning, in my car I did NOT feel any diffrence in: cornering, going over bumps, or just driving.
Originally Posted by d00df00d
Doesn't matter. Don't listen to him. Maybe he's got some other form of structural reinforcement, maybe he's BSing, maybe he just has no sensitivity whatsoever to how his car rides, but what he's claiming is physically impossible.
Originally Posted by MorpheusZero
You need to hold them on with more than duct tape you know. 

..last time i checked.. the tabs were fully welded to the car.. not sure what you're reffering too..
Originally Posted by 1FSTMAX
..last time i checked.. the tabs were fully welded to the car.. not sure what you're reffering too..
Originally Posted by 1FSTMAX
here's a pic of my ws stage two..
http://www.alphonse562.com/maxima/4sale/DSC00015.JPG
i didnt know there was a 3rd stage that was available? link? pic?
Yes i have coilovers, they're on a medium-hard setting, but not full stiff.. I do drive my car hard, and I know exactly how it reacts to a mod. Like i said in the beginning, in my car I did NOT feel any diffrence in: cornering, going over bumps, or just driving.
http://www.alphonse562.com/maxima/4sale/DSC00015.JPG
i didnt know there was a 3rd stage that was available? link? pic?
Yes i have coilovers, they're on a medium-hard setting, but not full stiff.. I do drive my car hard, and I know exactly how it reacts to a mod. Like i said in the beginning, in my car I did NOT feel any diffrence in: cornering, going over bumps, or just driving.
I am not doubting that you did not notice a difference. I added/removed an RSB on my I30 and could not feel any difference. I was already dropped (which I have long-argued diminishes the impact of an RSB on a rear-beam suspension setup) and just really did not see much of a benefit to the RSB.
I will get more details from Nick regarding his SFC setup- who made it, what stage(s) he has, and his impressions.
I know that MY I30 and his I30, despite very similar suspension setups OTHER THAN the SFCs felt entirely different after he added the SFCs. Even on the highway, I felt much more chassis flex from my car, even in lane changes. His car feels very flat in cornering, lane changes, and launch. We both had RSBs and FSTBs, and he has H&R on AGXs. I had H&R and later H-Techs, and I had AGXs and later switched to Illuminas. Even when we had nearly identical spring/strut/RSB/FSTB combos, th edifferences were pretty clear.
is anyone on this thread selling a pair? because id try them out, but i dont know if id want to purchase new for something that might not work, but i dont have anything done to my suspension so it might work a little better then some people have said.
Originally Posted by phenryiv1
I don't know that there was a stage 3- I was just asking what you had that you did not feel a difference.
I am not doubting that you did not notice a difference. I added/removed an RSB on my I30 and could not feel any difference. I was already dropped (which I have long-argued diminishes the impact of an RSB on a rear-beam suspension setup) and just really did not see much of a benefit to the RSB.
I will get more details from Nick regarding his SFC setup- who made it, what stage(s) he has, and his impressions.
I know that MY I30 and his I30, despite very similar suspension setups OTHER THAN the SFCs felt entirely different after he added the SFCs. Even on the highway, I felt much more chassis flex from my car, even in lane changes. His car feels very flat in cornering, lane changes, and launch. We both had RSBs and FSTBs, and he has H&R on AGXs. I had H&R and later H-Techs, and I had AGXs and later switched to Illuminas. Even when we had nearly identical spring/strut/RSB/FSTB combos, the differences were pretty clear.
I am not doubting that you did not notice a difference. I added/removed an RSB on my I30 and could not feel any difference. I was already dropped (which I have long-argued diminishes the impact of an RSB on a rear-beam suspension setup) and just really did not see much of a benefit to the RSB.
I will get more details from Nick regarding his SFC setup- who made it, what stage(s) he has, and his impressions.
I know that MY I30 and his I30, despite very similar suspension setups OTHER THAN the SFCs felt entirely different after he added the SFCs. Even on the highway, I felt much more chassis flex from my car, even in lane changes. His car feels very flat in cornering, lane changes, and launch. We both had RSBs and FSTBs, and he has H&R on AGXs. I had H&R and later H-Techs, and I had AGXs and later switched to Illuminas. Even when we had nearly identical spring/strut/RSB/FSTB combos, the differences were pretty clear.
I had the WSP SFCs (stage 1+2) installed at the same time, and before my car was lowered. So I had no idea which stage was more helpful, but I can only assume stage 1 was more important than stage 2. IIRC, stage 3 was only made for 5th gens, and only for a short period of time.
To people worried about clearance, don't. Granted, I'm only on H&Rs, but I only scrape the SFCs going into steep driveways and the like, never on the street. In fact, the SFCs and LTB may have saved my car from further damage when I ran over a dead deer going 70.
IMO, there is no debate whether or not SFCs work on a Maxima. They do. Every other Maxima owner who has driven my car comments on how solid it feels, and how they improve ride quality and general handling.
Patrick, you can drive my car all you like this weekend so you can refresh your memory.
In a nutshell....
A stiffer chassis will help with everything... handling, comfort, braking, etc...It lets everything on the car work better
It's staying where it's supposed to, and getting less stress than it has been getting...
A stiffer chassis will help with everything... handling, comfort, braking, etc...It lets everything on the car work better
It's staying where it's supposed to, and getting less stress than it has been getting...
The main selling point of this FOR ME at least...is the fact that many have reported less interior rattles and noises...I would love some better handling, but overall i hate the d4mn noises the 4th gens make...too much flexing...If there are reports of reduced noises...i could only imagin how much stiffer the car "Feels" with SFC on durring cornering etc...
Originally Posted by XeroX
If there are reports of reduced noises...i could only imagin how much stiffer the car "Feels" with SFC on durring cornering etc...
When installing, which way was decided that was best: When the suspension was loaded or with the wheels unloaded. I know there was a lot of talk on which was best when installing a FSTB but i didn't know if with SFCs it made much difference.
I'd love to try these out...i needs a new tranny first
I'd love to try these out...i needs a new tranny first
Originally Posted by Poowill
When installing, which way was decided that was best: When the suspension was loaded or with the wheels unloaded. I know there was a lot of talk on which was best when installing a FSTB but i didn't know if with SFCs it made much difference.
I'd love to try these out...i needs a new tranny first
I'd love to try these out...i needs a new tranny first

Well the best way is with the wheels loaded, but I think you can get away with a 4 post lift as shown in the pics on page 2. Just by no means use a 2 post lift.
Originally Posted by d00df00d
Cool.
Now, just so you know, this is where you start talking about how they work.
Now, just so you know, this is where you start talking about how they work.

Let's have the review please!
Originally Posted by MorpheusZero
Do they come in different colors? 
No, seriously.

No, seriously.
Seriously, why does the color matter?
They go under the car, after a week or two of driving they will be black with road grime. Spraying an undercoat would be best to help protect against rust etc.
Originally Posted by Flava_24/7
Seriously, why does the color matter?
They go under the car, after a week or two of driving they will be black with road grime. Spraying an undercoat would be best to help protect against rust etc.
They go under the car, after a week or two of driving they will be black with road grime. Spraying an undercoat would be best to help protect against rust etc.
I was under the impression that a 4 post lift was one that kept all 4 wheels loaded, while a 2 post lift picks the car up by the frame rails... (ie, what's pictured.). Any problems opening and closing the doors after installing them on a 2 post lift?
Clear some things up, 4 post = drive on
2 = frame rails
2 = frame rails
The Stage 1 and 2 requires that the car be placed on a 4 post lift or ramps to prevent adding camber to the car. The sfc’s need to be installed so the suspension is as it is sitting normally on the tires, a 2 post lift will not work as it will change the camber of the body and your doors may no longer close after installation.
Honestly i dont c it making that big of a difference. our under carraige is so weak compared to most cars i have seen...even if you were to flex the chasi enough on a 2 post lift and then welded the SFCs on, the minute you droped the car and put it under normal load of the car it should "stretch" pretty damn near close to normal....I dont think it would be very possible to cause any problems using either method...but thats just my opinion...i may be wrong...
Originally Posted by XeroX
Honestly i dont c it making that big of a difference. our under carraige is so weak compared to most cars i have seen...even if you were to flex the chasi enough on a 2 post lift and then welded the SFCs on, the minute you droped the car and put it under normal load of the car it should "stretch" pretty damn near close to normal....I dont think it would be very possible to cause any problems using either method...but thats just my opinion...i may be wrong...
I think the point you're missing is that when you use a two-post lift, the chassis flex/stretch, whatever you want to call it, is that of an unnatural, unloaded state. Weld on SFCs when the car is suspended in this state, and you pretty much help to 'lock' the chassis in that flexed, unnatural postion. When you drop the car and put it under load, the car will not sit naturally as the SFCs are preventing the car's chassis from flexing back to that natural, loaded position.











