ok... two things happened while I was driving...

1- out of nowhere my car starts sputtering (feels like ur false starting) everytime I reached 2000RPMS on ANY gear, which was really weird, after 2 minutes I stopped turned off the car, turn it back on, the stuttering stopped... so I thought all was fine, went to get some gas

2- immediately after I put in a full tank of gas, my car's temperature SKY ROCKETED past overheating on the temperature gauge, and it only seemed to increase when I pressed on the gas pedal, and it decreased (started to cool down) when I didn't accelerate....

need some help people, I hope my engine isn't going haywire...

 

Any SES codes to go along with these shenanigans?

 

nope no engine lights

 

For number 1, would it go ABOVE 2000rpm? Could be a MAF issue.

 

it would BARELY go above 2000RPMs, and when it hit, thats when all the sputtering started, my car just kept jolting forward sounded like the engine was struggling to produce power

but whats really getting me is why my temp gauge just shot up like that out of nowhere, it got me worried cause I didn't want my engine to explode on me

 

I think your MAF is on its way out. The stuttering is definetly a symptom of a faulty maf.

 

barely going above 2k sounds like a MAF is the first to look at.

 

Ok, that's obvious, but what about the temp issue people.

 

id say maf or coils for #1 and for #2 check if your not leaking coolant and that its full, its pretty weird

 

how much does it cost to replace an MAF?

and I'm scared as hell, because everytime I drive the gauge would shoot up past the H line, and I really have no choice since I work full time... someone please help me out... and I"m pretty sure the engine wouldn't overheat like that just because its missing coolant... I mean it SHOOTS UP

 

Check to see if you lost any coolant. Try burping the upper radiator hose to see if there was air in the system.

 

Thermostat anyone?

MAF's are cheap

www.car-part.com Have had a used one on for 20k (3yrs) and it's fine.

 

Unplug the MAF, see if it makes a difference?

 

Also not being able to go above 2000 rpms is a sign of ECU failure, but i would think that would throw a code.... MAF is your best bet.

 

that would be your best bet to try that first if its doing the same thing when its unplugged then its your maf you could try cleaning it before getting a new one

 

how do u unplug the MAF, I have no idea where it is located, does someone have a picture? what do I do after I unplug it? do I just leave it unplugged?

 

Heres a pic. The MAF is in the red box, and the red line is pointing to the sensor that you need to unplug. Keep in mind i have an after market intake, and im assuming you have the stock air box. They are both located in the same area.

 

You might have some ghost codes or stored codes that could help. Run the car by Autozone and have them run your codes for free to see if any come up.

How many miles does your car have? When was the last time the coolant/plugs were changed?

Can you hear your coolant boiling when you get out of the car after it has gone into the red?

 

my car has 98000+, the problem is I added coolant, and it shot up right afterwards, I"ve always had a coolant leak, and sometimes it does run on empty, but it has NEVER shot up, which is weird for it to do that after I added coolant, which is why I'm thinking it had something to do with the sputtering I experienced earlier

ok but someone answer this one...

is it safe to drive the car with the MAF unplugged? how long can it stay like that before I have to replace it, or is this something I have to replace immediately?

and what does MAF stand for so I can find the part by its full name, since they don't abbreviate

 

Depending on how much coolant you added, you should have added water to go with it.

I've driven home 30+ miles w/ the MAF unplugged. Aside from not being able to go over 60 MPH, it's fine.

MAF = Mass Air Flow sensor.

www.car-part.com has them for less than 45 shipped, look under Air Flow Meter.

 

I can't seem to be able to find it, what is it under?

 

. . . . . . . .

 

ahhh, I was looking under "M" thanks NmexMax

I just bought one for $50 shipped, has a 100k on it, is that good?

 

Better than a new stock 5th gen

 

No but it's too late. But did unplugging the MAF affect driveability? If it didn't then the MAF is bad, but that doesn't mean your problems end here. If driveability isn't restored with new MAF, look into the TPS. TPS failure is most appearent when you apply the throttle.

 

ok, I unplugged the MAF, and funny thing happened, can't drive with the MAF unplugged, got the same sputtering that I felt yesterday with Issue #1, just this time I can go over 2000RPMs, but sometimes it'll just idle and then the car will just meter will just drop down to zero and the car stalls... oh and I got 2 codes immediately after unplugging the MAF, 1-2, and 2-8

0102 is obviously the MAF, but I have no clue as to what 0208 means, it pulled out as undefined, anyone know what 0208 means?

 

Your cooling fan is out. (0208)
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....08#post3573919

 

great... how much does it cost to replace that?

 

I should have clarified, the fan and/or any of its related electrical components may be to blame.

Troubleshoot the problem, then move on.

 

when you added coolant was it dry then? Maybe an air lock?

 

ya it was dry, well I'm going to get it checked out tomorrow anyways, I was thinking of going to autozone to get it checked out, hopefully it won't be pricey

 

is AutoZone going to 'check out?

How much coolant did you add, and if it was a good quantity (over a L) why didn't you add water?

 

I honestly didn't know u were suppose to add water... how much are u suppose to add? and if I'm getting a code will adding coolant and water really help? because its the fact that the engine is overheating and it has never happened before is whats scaring me