NOOBIES: "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread. Read FIRST post BEFORE posting!
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1
Front Wheel Noise
I have a 1995 Maxima. There is significant wheel noise from the right front. I have replaced the wheel bearing, cv boot, checked and rotated the tires and replaced the rotors. Any ideas as to what I should try next? TIA.
Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 168
From: St. Charles
I was looking into installing a much brighter headlight with a much whiter light. (HID's?) Im not really sure what i need or if I'm even talking about the right part. Anyways, what do i need besides the actual part. I have a 98 max. Also, will it fit in the stock housing?
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 26
From: brooklyn
Sure, with lots of modification and $$; anything is possible. Keep in mind, the rear bumper is different too (although it appears to be the same) so more time and $$ will need to be spent to get those rear pieces to fit right as well. Only the side skirts will fit w/o modification.
My suggestion, get the front and rear bumper covers from the 97-99 years so you can have the 97-99 kit. IMO, getting the bumper covers will cost you some additional $$, but in the long run, will be cheaper and easier than paying a body shop to fit the new kit on your older 96 Max. Or just purchase the 95-96 kit and save yourself some headaches and $$.
My suggestion, get the front and rear bumper covers from the 97-99 years so you can have the 97-99 kit. IMO, getting the bumper covers will cost you some additional $$, but in the long run, will be cheaper and easier than paying a body shop to fit the new kit on your older 96 Max. Or just purchase the 95-96 kit and save yourself some headaches and $$.
Banned
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 221
I was looking into installing a much brighter headlight with a much whiter light. (HID's?) Im not really sure what i need or if I'm even talking about the right part. Anyways, what do i need besides the actual part. I have a 98 max. Also, will it fit in the stock housing?
You have to (or should) replace the lamp housing too, I think, if you want to do HIDs.
edit: Oh yeah, there's a sticky about HIDs too.
Last edited by RA021526; Jun 21, 2009 at 08:05 PM.
Banned
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 221
This sticky has a bunch of great info in it. It's a good read.
Banned
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 221
I'm having problem after problem with my 95 5spd maxima, i don't know a whole lot about cars but i learn as things start to break. I was thinking of just getting the vq35de engine to solve the problem, but I know my mechanic won't install it. Do you think this is a good idea? Does anyone here in the NJ area be willing to install one. and how much would it cost? -Thanks
Congratulations on the new car, btw.
Good luck both of you.
Banned
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 221
I'd double check the specific symptoms of each of these and see if there are any similarities to your situation. Good luck!
I'm having problem after problem with my 95 5spd maxima, i don't know a whole lot about cars but i learn as things start to break. I was thinking of just getting the vq35de engine to solve the problem, but I know my mechanic won't install it. Do you think this is a good idea? Does anyone here in the NJ area be willing to install one. and how much would it cost? -Thanks
No spark, no injection, but popping the car works
Ok, since i dont feel like writing 4 messages of bs to get to 15 posts somewhere ill just ask here.
I have a 200sx s13 with an A32 VQ30DE engine and a JWT USDM ecu for it.
On sunday i went to my friends garage to do some misc repairs on the engine mounts etc, nothing on the engine or the electrical side.
In the morning when i started the car, it started right up without any tricking, just turn the key and voila.
No when we left my friends garage, the car just didnt start at all. No spark and no fuel at all.
So to sum up:
- The car worked perfectly and i didnt even touch a wire!
- No spark
- No injection
- I DID make sure i've got a start signal going to the ecu.
- I changed the front crank sensor, no effect.
- NOTE: When i loosen the front crank sensor and tap it on some metal with the key in the ON position, the ecu turns on/thinks the car is running/starting (i hear the fuel pump priming for 2 sec).
But when i push the car, it starts up pretty easily and then just runs smoothly with no problems.
For the last few weeks i've also had a problem when trying to start the car when it's warm or hot. It's very hard to start, but eventually starts. The main difference between the hot start problem that i had earlier is that when it's hot and hard to start, i still have lots fuel and spark and it eventually starts.
I'm gonna give the car a try with some cables while letting an other car idle besides. If it starts up then, it's defidently a problem where the starter just draws too much current.
For the hot start problem i've got no idea actually.
I have a 200sx s13 with an A32 VQ30DE engine and a JWT USDM ecu for it.
On sunday i went to my friends garage to do some misc repairs on the engine mounts etc, nothing on the engine or the electrical side.
In the morning when i started the car, it started right up without any tricking, just turn the key and voila.
No when we left my friends garage, the car just didnt start at all. No spark and no fuel at all.
So to sum up:
- The car worked perfectly and i didnt even touch a wire!
- No spark
- No injection
- I DID make sure i've got a start signal going to the ecu.
- I changed the front crank sensor, no effect.
- NOTE: When i loosen the front crank sensor and tap it on some metal with the key in the ON position, the ecu turns on/thinks the car is running/starting (i hear the fuel pump priming for 2 sec).
But when i push the car, it starts up pretty easily and then just runs smoothly with no problems.
For the last few weeks i've also had a problem when trying to start the car when it's warm or hot. It's very hard to start, but eventually starts. The main difference between the hot start problem that i had earlier is that when it's hot and hard to start, i still have lots fuel and spark and it eventually starts.
I'm gonna give the car a try with some cables while letting an other car idle besides. If it starts up then, it's defidently a problem where the starter just draws too much current.
For the hot start problem i've got no idea actually.
Ok, since i dont feel like writing 4 messages of bs to get to 15 posts somewhere ill just ask here.
I have a 200sx s13 with an A32 VQ30DE engine and a JWT USDM ecu for it.
On sunday i went to my friends garage to do some misc repairs on the engine mounts etc, nothing on the engine or the electrical side.
In the morning when i started the car, it started right up without any tricking, just turn the key and voila.
No when we left my friends garage, the car just didnt start at all. No spark and no fuel at all.
So to sum up:
- The car worked perfectly and i didnt even touch a wire!
- No spark
- No injection
- I DID make sure i've got a start signal going to the ecu.
- I changed the front crank sensor, no effect.
- NOTE: When i loosen the front crank sensor and tap it on some metal with the key in the ON position, the ecu turns on/thinks the car is running/starting (i hear the fuel pump priming for 2 sec).
But when i push the car, it starts up pretty easily and then just runs smoothly with no problems.
For the last few weeks i've also had a problem when trying to start the car when it's warm or hot. It's very hard to start, but eventually starts. The main difference between the hot start problem that i had earlier is that when it's hot and hard to start, i still have lots fuel and spark and it eventually starts.
I'm gonna give the car a try with some cables while letting an other car idle besides. If it starts up then, it's defidently a problem where the starter just draws too much current.
For the hot start problem i've got no idea actually.
I have a 200sx s13 with an A32 VQ30DE engine and a JWT USDM ecu for it.
On sunday i went to my friends garage to do some misc repairs on the engine mounts etc, nothing on the engine or the electrical side.
In the morning when i started the car, it started right up without any tricking, just turn the key and voila.
No when we left my friends garage, the car just didnt start at all. No spark and no fuel at all.
So to sum up:
- The car worked perfectly and i didnt even touch a wire!
- No spark
- No injection
- I DID make sure i've got a start signal going to the ecu.
- I changed the front crank sensor, no effect.
- NOTE: When i loosen the front crank sensor and tap it on some metal with the key in the ON position, the ecu turns on/thinks the car is running/starting (i hear the fuel pump priming for 2 sec).
But when i push the car, it starts up pretty easily and then just runs smoothly with no problems.
For the last few weeks i've also had a problem when trying to start the car when it's warm or hot. It's very hard to start, but eventually starts. The main difference between the hot start problem that i had earlier is that when it's hot and hard to start, i still have lots fuel and spark and it eventually starts.
I'm gonna give the car a try with some cables while letting an other car idle besides. If it starts up then, it's defidently a problem where the starter just draws too much current.
For the hot start problem i've got no idea actually.
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 96
From: NYC
just replaced the front valve cover but the hose connect from the rear valve is cracked so do i have to buy it from the dealer or i can buy from auto zone does that hose have a name for it? the exhaust manifold is on bottom of the front valve right? is hard to replace that one?
just replaced the front valve cover but the hose connect from the rear valve is cracked so do i have to buy it from the dealer or i can buy from auto zone does that hose have a name for it? the exhaust manifold is on bottom of the front valve right? is hard to replace that one?
Which reminds me, I should get a new one, I just electrical taped mine up a long time ago.
11826-31U00, $14.28 each at Courtesy
Why would you replace the exhaust manifold? Is it cracked or something?
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 96
From: NYC
You could replace it with some regular heater hose or something, but I'd just get a new one. I don't believe any of the parts stores carry one molded like the stock hose.
Which reminds me, I should get a new one, I just electrical taped mine up a long time ago.
11826-31U00, $14.28 each at Courtesy
Why would you replace the exhaust manifold? Is it cracked or something?
Which reminds me, I should get a new one, I just electrical taped mine up a long time ago.
11826-31U00, $14.28 each at Courtesy
Why would you replace the exhaust manifold? Is it cracked or something?
Hell, just look at the stickies (as you should before asking any question): http://forums.maxima.org/4652687-post12.html
Also note the very first post of this thread:
And one more thing, DROP THE CAPS. Seriously, stop yelling.
The exhaust manifold gasket won't leak 'gunk', only exhaust gases.
Is it not just oil having run down from the front valve cover?
Last edited by pmohr; Jun 23, 2009 at 03:30 PM.
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 96
From: NYC
Seriously? Did you search at all, or even look through this thread? It's been covered many many times.
Hell, just look at the stickies (as you should before asking any question): http://forums.maxima.org/4652687-post12.html
Also note the very first post of this thread:
And one more thing, DROP THE CAPS. Seriously, stop yelling.
The exhaust manifold gasket won't leak 'gunk', only exhaust gases.
Is it not just oil having run down from the front valve cover?
Hell, just look at the stickies (as you should before asking any question): http://forums.maxima.org/4652687-post12.html
Also note the very first post of this thread:
And one more thing, DROP THE CAPS. Seriously, stop yelling.
The exhaust manifold gasket won't leak 'gunk', only exhaust gases.
Is it not just oil having run down from the front valve cover?
more options than you can afford. i have a shift kit for the auto for sale - pm me if interested.
Hey Pmohr, I need some advice. I had a warranty from the shop I bought my car at and they said that I ruined my brake cable because I tightened the E-brake handle, and that because I kept pulling the E-brake handle up and down too much.
I mean I don't pull it up and down while driving I just press the little button on it when I'm bored, but can really pulling the E-brake up and down cause the cable to be destroyed?
I mean I don't pull it up and down while driving I just press the little button on it when I'm bored, but can really pulling the E-brake up and down cause the cable to be destroyed?
Hey Pmohr, I need some advice. I had a warranty from the shop I bought my car at and they said that I ruined my brake cable because I tightened the E-brake handle, and that because I kept pulling the E-brake handle up and down too much.
I mean I don't pull it up and down while driving I just press the little button on it when I'm bored, but can really pulling the E-brake up and down cause the cable to be destroyed?
I mean I don't pull it up and down while driving I just press the little button on it when I'm bored, but can really pulling the E-brake up and down cause the cable to be destroyed?
Did you overadjust the cable at the handle, or is that what they're assuming?
I just adjusted it to a point where it would stop itself on a slight hill, at first the cable would go up to 30 clicks and barely stop the car from rolling but now its at 10-15. But they saw that it was tightened and call saying the warranty doesn't cover it because I ruined or stretched my cable.
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 82
97 Maxima SE
I have a leak coming from one of the hoses under the power steering fluid reservior. The hose on the right. Its not connected to the reservior. What is leaking out of it? Is it a quick fix to replace the hose? What kind of srew driver do I need? I dont recognize the clamp screw.
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 96
From: NYC
I have a leak coming from one of the hoses under the power steering fluid reservior. The hose on the right. Its not connected to the reservior. What is leaking out of it? Is it a quick fix to replace the hose? What kind of srew driver do I need? I dont recognize the clamp screw.
oil leaking under the steering reservoir the tubes clamps are tight don't know why is still leaking do i have to replace the tubes? there's no crack or hole on the tube. how to fix it?
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19
From: Lake Wylie, SC
Hey guys, I need help ... I didn't know where to post this question, besides here, so be nice ...
Got 2 options of maxima to buy:
1995 maxima 125,ooo miles, 5 speed ... for 3900 (non bose)
1999 maxima 125,000 miles, 5 speed ... for 4900 (bose - auto climate)
both are clean, no accidents and no rust.
What would you choose?, how much would you paid? ...
Got 2 options of maxima to buy:
1995 maxima 125,ooo miles, 5 speed ... for 3900 (non bose)
1999 maxima 125,000 miles, 5 speed ... for 4900 (bose - auto climate)
both are clean, no accidents and no rust.
What would you choose?, how much would you paid? ...
Hey guys, I need help ... I didn't know where to post this question, besides here, so be nice ...
Got 2 options of maxima to buy:
1995 maxima 125,ooo miles, 5 speed ... for 3900 (non bose)
1999 maxima 125,000 miles, 5 speed ... for 4900 (bose - auto climate)
both are clean, no accidents and no rust.
What would you choose?, how much would you paid? ...
Got 2 options of maxima to buy:
1995 maxima 125,ooo miles, 5 speed ... for 3900 (non bose)
1999 maxima 125,000 miles, 5 speed ... for 4900 (bose - auto climate)
both are clean, no accidents and no rust.
What would you choose?, how much would you paid? ...
For the '95, you really don't have that many worries. Also much easier to upgrade the whole audio system, if you're into that.
But you also have to check the brakes, the springs, the axles, the tail pipe to see if there is a lot of gunk and all that good stuff.
Thats what I did when I went used car shopping a while ago haha, and I almost bought an ugly Mazda for 8k that I did not like at all but was forced into considering because I needed a car badly
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 87
From: North East (scrtn/W-B), Pa
New Questions - TONS OF CODES/ Crank - No start
The situation: ~3weeks Ago I did a tranny swap auto to auto. Prior to this, no problems. (aside from the missing 2&4th gears). Car ran fine. I did notice a slight hesitation when starting. However, battery turns out to be bad.
After swap: Starter Goes bad - Replaced. New starter sounds like its not catching the flywheel/drive plate. Makes a clunking/chatter noise. But, during this time, it started every time. Ran fine. Eventually starts became hard. *STARTED 1 IN 20 ATTEMPTS* Bought new battery, fired up 1ST, 2ND & 3rd time. 4th time, CRANKS and NO START. I pulled the following Codes:
Day 1
0100, p0325, p0110 , p01335, p0600 , p0105, p0720, p0134
The codes of interest (COI) to me right now are 1335(0407). I pulled and cleaned the sensor (according to search results). Didn't start. Next day. Fires up. Take it for a run, noticed Low rpm hesitation and rough IDLE. Doesn't restart.
I tried readjusting the starter position and it's grounds. Battery terminals are clean, checked tranny harness. No solution. Pull codes
x2 = seen twice
Day 2: p0325(x2), p0600(x2), p0110, p301, p0720, p0174
COI : P0301 - MISFIRE cycl #1, p0174 - fuel injection left bank / lean
Pulled plugs: plugs 1 & 2 look carbon fouled. -Replaced. Crank engine. No start. Pull plugs - covered in Fuel. Haven't checked the coils with multireader yet. Pull CKPS. Full of magnetic shards. Clean replace. No improvement
Later this day. After switching some coils around. Checking fuses/switching relays *doing this the entire time* car starts. Observations: Battery dies, every "dummy light" turns off. I back off the key and throw foreward and it starts. I let it idle. Check exhaust - WHITE SMOKE. Fuel smell *makes sense, probably a lil' flooded?* Car eventually stalls ~2.5 mins
New codes: p0110 (x2), p0105 (x2), 1760, p0740(x2), p01490, p1492, p0446, p1400, p1760, p0745 (x2), p1105. Since this, All i have gotten is a temporary crank. It DOES NOT CRANK while THE KEY IS IN THE START position. It'll instantly make the CRANK NOISE and then stop. All I can hear is the Starter spinning along with the flywheel?
ANY Ideas would really help! I Have the appropriate manuals and I've been going through it. I know what all these codes mean. However, the manual doesn't exactly say which components are necessary for a successful start.
I'm currently working throught the symptoms matrix. Again, any ideas will be glady accepted.
Any one know how the ignition system works? I saw in the manual the component that lead to the ecu sending power to the transistors. Can anyone quickly list major components for starting?
SORRY FOR the long post. I did avoid this for sometime. And thanks again!
The situation: ~3weeks Ago I did a tranny swap auto to auto. Prior to this, no problems. (aside from the missing 2&4th gears). Car ran fine. I did notice a slight hesitation when starting. However, battery turns out to be bad.
After swap: Starter Goes bad - Replaced. New starter sounds like its not catching the flywheel/drive plate. Makes a clunking/chatter noise. But, during this time, it started every time. Ran fine. Eventually starts became hard. *STARTED 1 IN 20 ATTEMPTS* Bought new battery, fired up 1ST, 2ND & 3rd time. 4th time, CRANKS and NO START. I pulled the following Codes:
Day 1
0100, p0325, p0110 , p01335, p0600 , p0105, p0720, p0134The codes of interest (COI) to me right now are 1335(0407). I pulled and cleaned the sensor (according to search results). Didn't start. Next day. Fires up. Take it for a run, noticed Low rpm hesitation and rough IDLE. Doesn't restart.
I tried readjusting the starter position and it's grounds. Battery terminals are clean, checked tranny harness. No solution. Pull codes
x2 = seen twice
Day 2: p0325(x2), p0600(x2), p0110, p301, p0720, p0174
COI : P0301 - MISFIRE cycl #1, p0174 - fuel injection left bank / lean
Pulled plugs: plugs 1 & 2 look carbon fouled. -Replaced. Crank engine. No start. Pull plugs - covered in Fuel. Haven't checked the coils with multireader yet. Pull CKPS. Full of magnetic shards. Clean replace. No improvement
Later this day. After switching some coils around. Checking fuses/switching relays *doing this the entire time* car starts. Observations: Battery dies, every "dummy light" turns off. I back off the key and throw foreward and it starts. I let it idle. Check exhaust - WHITE SMOKE. Fuel smell *makes sense, probably a lil' flooded?* Car eventually stalls ~2.5 mins
New codes: p0110 (x2), p0105 (x2), 1760, p0740(x2), p01490, p1492, p0446, p1400, p1760, p0745 (x2), p1105. Since this, All i have gotten is a temporary crank. It DOES NOT CRANK while THE KEY IS IN THE START position. It'll instantly make the CRANK NOISE and then stop. All I can hear is the Starter spinning along with the flywheel?
ANY Ideas would really help! I Have the appropriate manuals and I've been going through it. I know what all these codes mean. However, the manual doesn't exactly say which components are necessary for a successful start.
I'm currently working throught the symptoms matrix. Again, any ideas will be glady accepted.
Any one know how the ignition system works? I saw in the manual the component that lead to the ecu sending power to the transistors. Can anyone quickly list major components for starting?
SORRY FOR the long post. I did avoid this for sometime. And thanks again!
I've changed the cps(ref) and the cps (pos). *I only had a code for the (ref)*
DIAGNOSIS
injector and coil harnesses are getting battery voltage.
Coil harnesses,terminal 3 and ground should read between .01 -.1 volts. I'm getting .02 Is this too low?
Car started 4 more times. Drove it one of the 4times and it stalled out on me. Pulled the plugs. They're carbon fouled. Bought new plugs, threw those in. Started up on first try. *Does this mean the ignition system is within spec?*
I let it idle and it was very rough. I rev it to 3k. I noticed that I have a slow return to idle. Turn the car off, turn it back on no start. Pulled the plugs and they're carbon fouled. WTF? So, I'm running rich in the FRONT AND REAR BANKS. What could be the cause? PCV? O2? leaky injector in both banks?
Maf works
p0174 LEAN in front bank injector system.
Air filter is new.
Fuel filter, is new, but I had it laying around for like 6months.
plugs new, 0miles and carbon fouled.
REF CPS CHANGED.
POS CPS CHANGED.
Any ideas? CAR= 98se auto 168,xxx
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 82
What is the name of those hoses on the tubes?
Have you loosened the clamp and taken the hose off to make sure it isn't split where you can't see it? Tried pushing it further up the tube and see if that fixes the leak?
'95, every time. For a '99, (IMO) you're asking for coil problems, possible NATS issues that will require a tow to the dealer, more emissions crap, a different ECU than all other 4th gens, a Bose system that may or may not just flake out on you, and (again, IMO) auto climate is inferior to the manual climate control.
For the '95, you really don't have that many worries. Also much easier to upgrade the whole audio system, if you're into that.
'95, every time. For a '99, (IMO) you're asking for coil problems, possible NATS issues that will require a tow to the dealer, more emissions crap, a different ECU than all other 4th gens, a Bose system that may or may not just flake out on you, and (again, IMO) auto climate is inferior to the manual climate control.
For the '95, you really don't have that many worries. Also much easier to upgrade the whole audio system, if you're into that.
I want to delete the spoiler mostly because i dont like the look of it but also because
the light on it is loose and doesnt light up.
Car is a 96 SE automatic can i take the spoiler off cover the holes with rubber and install the standard 3rd brake light that the gxe's and gle's have without splicing wires ?
If so where is the plug for the regular 3rd brake light ?
the light on it is loose and doesnt light up.
Car is a 96 SE automatic can i take the spoiler off cover the holes with rubber and install the standard 3rd brake light that the gxe's and gle's have without splicing wires ?
If so where is the plug for the regular 3rd brake light ?
I want to delete the spoiler mostly because i dont like the look of it but also because
the light on it is loose and doesnt light up.
Car is a 96 SE automatic can i take the spoiler off cover the holes with rubber and install the standard 3rd brake light that the gxe's and gle's have without splicing wires ?
If so where is the plug for the regular 3rd brake light ?
the light on it is loose and doesnt light up.
Car is a 96 SE automatic can i take the spoiler off cover the holes with rubber and install the standard 3rd brake light that the gxe's and gle's have without splicing wires ?
If so where is the plug for the regular 3rd brake light ?
I believe the CHMSL should be pre-wired. Where is the connector? ...have you looked where the brake light would be? That's the only place it would logically be...
They are power steering hoses, the specific name and part number of the hose obviously depends on exactly which one you mean, but you have neglected to divulge that.
Again, have you done as I suggested above?
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 4
Any help much appreciated.
I have a 1996 Maxima and I am getting a very distinct sound from the front right wheel well. It sounds like a marble rolling around in a can... or stroking a fork on a thin piece of rusty metal. It also seems to be related to the rotation of the wheel.
I get the sound when I turn hard to the left and on any degree of turn to the right. It gets a bit louder as I crank hard over to the right but does not change when braking.
Any suggestions on what to check first? Or what steps to take?
I know I can take it in, but if it isn't major I'd like to try to fix it myself.
I had a problem with a dust cover on my Accord, was wondering if this might be the same?
Thanks again.
I have a 1996 Maxima and I am getting a very distinct sound from the front right wheel well. It sounds like a marble rolling around in a can... or stroking a fork on a thin piece of rusty metal. It also seems to be related to the rotation of the wheel.
I get the sound when I turn hard to the left and on any degree of turn to the right. It gets a bit louder as I crank hard over to the right but does not change when braking.
Any suggestions on what to check first? Or what steps to take?
I know I can take it in, but if it isn't major I'd like to try to fix it myself.
I had a problem with a dust cover on my Accord, was wondering if this might be the same?
Thanks again.
Any help much appreciated.
I have a 1996 Maxima and I am getting a very distinct sound from the front right wheel well. It sounds like a marble rolling around in a can... or stroking a fork on a thin piece of rusty metal. It also seems to be related to the rotation of the wheel.
I get the sound when I turn hard to the left and on any degree of turn to the right. It gets a bit louder as I crank hard over to the right but does not change when braking.
Any suggestions on what to check first? Or what steps to take?
I know I can take it in, but if it isn't major I'd like to try to fix it myself.
I had a problem with a dust cover on my Accord, was wondering if this might be the same?
Thanks again.
I have a 1996 Maxima and I am getting a very distinct sound from the front right wheel well. It sounds like a marble rolling around in a can... or stroking a fork on a thin piece of rusty metal. It also seems to be related to the rotation of the wheel.
I get the sound when I turn hard to the left and on any degree of turn to the right. It gets a bit louder as I crank hard over to the right but does not change when braking.
Any suggestions on what to check first? Or what steps to take?
I know I can take it in, but if it isn't major I'd like to try to fix it myself.
I had a problem with a dust cover on my Accord, was wondering if this might be the same?
Thanks again.
You specifically mention turning, does it not do it when driving straight?
Have you done anything to the car recently? Brake job, rotated the wheels, etc?
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 4
I did not check the splash shield. I'm not quite certain what to check. While I was changing the oil, I had the front end jacked up and I decided to try and run the wheels while they were elevated. There was no scraping sound.
The sound does not happen when driving straight. The sound is getting a tad bit louder with time.
I changed the tires from the winter ones and the sound may have started then... but if it did it was very quiet.
Thanks for the fast response. I look forward to doing a bunch of work on this vehicle in the future.
