what does the torque converter look like?
can you tell if it is on here?

 

Yes, the torque converter is there (along with the flexplate, oddly enough).

This is a torque converter:


The red cap there goes on the input shaft of the trans, it's essentially the clutch of an auto trans; transfers power from the engine to the trans, and keeps it from stalling when you come to a stop.

 

^ thanks pmohr! you the man

 

I really need HELP.

The issue: Weird crank


It'll crank for a split second and then all you'll here is the starter spinning. I assume it's still spinning the driveplate.

So the QUESTION: Is There a signal that causes this cranking noise or is the noise just a result of the engine being turned?

I've checked the start signal fuse and it's OK.

The problems started AFTER my transmission swap. AUTO TO AUTO.
I found CRAZY97's thread. I ran a 4ga wire from the 14m bolt directly to where the NEG cable of the battery mounts on the engine. NO noticeable improvement.

car = 98se auto. 168k

When ever it has started, I noticed a rough idle and carbon fouled plugs 4/6 with the other two slightlty carbon fouled.

I need help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks.

 

When you say it's 'just spinning', is it the high speed spinning of just the starter, or is the engine actually cranking as well? If it was engaged with the flexplate, the engine would be cranking.

FWIW try running the ground from the starter bolt directly to the battery itself, all of the open areas where the battery grounds to the block tend to lead to corrosion and not so great contact.

By 'cranking noise' do you mean the starter spinning free (as you seem to mean) or the engine itself cranking? There's no 'signal' for the noise, it's just an inherent noise when you start putting these assemblies in motion.

Have you tried pulling the starter out to see if it's possibly not kicking out properly?

 

Thanks for the reply.

By spinning, I mean the starter is spinning along with the engine. I ASSUME its making contact with the flex plate; Because, I do get an initial engine crank noise, then it stops as if it loses contact with the flex plate, BUT the tach still reads 300-500 RPMs.

By cranking, I meant the noise the engine it self makes when people have long cranks. Which, by the way, I rarely ever get. I can never sustain a long crank.(this is in reference to the tach reading 300-500 rpms)

Incase anyone asks, yes I did get codes. I listed them on page 99 of this thread.

I will try a different grounding point when I get back from work.

UPDATE: today I went out and started the car *after I left the battery disconnected* it starts within half a second of turning the key. I turn it off and turn it back on and it doesn't start. It exhibits the problems listed above.


Thanks for the reply pmohr and to anyone who decides the chime in. All help will be greatly appreciated!

 

i want to flush coolant but don't have water hose after drain out coolant can i use bucket of water pour in to flush? how many gallons of coolant and water i need? i have to mix it first then put it in or i can put coolant in first then water?

 

It's better to use a pressurized source of water, otherwise it'll just go in there and start collecting, rather than push out whatever's in there.

Cooling system is right around 9 quarts capacity, and no, you don't have to premix.

 

i need help, i am buying the front end of a 06 maxima and i need to know exactly what i need todo so i can put the 3.5 in my 99 max

 

i also need to know what else i need to get in order for it to work properly

 

Check the stickies in the All Motor Forum. TONS of info on this swap.

 

I tried extra grounding and It didn't help. I ran jumper cables from the 14 and 17m bolt directly to the negative battery terminal. I also sanded down the starter bolts, the location on the tranny where it bolts up and the bolt holes on the start itselt.

autozone tested starter and it passed.

I smell fuel if I crank it a few times. The other day while cranking, I got it start a few times BUT it stalled out. (I pulled out the fuel pump fuse) Also, I got a backfire through the throttlebody. I searched and came up with a few answered. 1- timing chain off. 2- A Stuck valve? 3-built up vapors from unsuccessful starts.

I ran some more MULTIREADER TEST AND GOT THE FOLLOWING.

IGNITION COIL HARNESS. POWER SUPPLY IS A LITTLE LESS THAN BATTERY VOLTAGE.
between terminal 3 and 1 i'm getting .02 and the manual states I require between .01 - .1 volts.

is something draining my system causing the hard starts?

 

Now the max will barely start and runs worse than before. Do i need a new ecu or is this indicative of my crank sensor or fuel pump. For reference i reset the ecu b/c the car was being sluggish and the idle was somewhat eradic even after cleaning both the TB and IACV and sealing up the UIM.

Thanks

 

I cant seem to find Halo Angle eye headlights and LED taillights for my 97 max. And I see a lot of guys wit them. Got help??

 

I was wondering what the proper measurement was for a 99 Maxima sunroof deflector. I was browsing the autozone website and there are several sunroof deflectors available (32 1/2 inches, 34 1/2 inches etc.) and was confused as to which I should purchase. Any advise?

 

You did check to make sure the screw isn't still in the diagnostic position, right?

Are you getting any codes now? Did you do anything other than reset the ECU?

What do you mean 'hard reset'? Did you clear the codes via the screw, did you unplug it, what? The only real memory it has is for DTCs, it doesn't 'adapt' to a driving style or anything.

Search, there are a few (IIRC, maybe only Kevlo) people that do or have made LED tails. They aren't available as a general aftermarket item, but made by org members.

As far as the angel eyes, they don't look right at all unless you've got projectors, whether they be halogen or xenon.

Search, you'll find all the info you need.

I'll assume that you have a 4th gen that you want to get a deflector for.

Have you considered just going outside with a tape measure?

That's the quickest, easiest, and most obvious approach.

 

[quote=pmohr;7098991]You did check to make sure the screw isn't still in the diagnostic position, right?

Are you getting any codes now? Did you do anything other than reset the ECU?

What do you mean 'hard reset'? Did you clear the codes via the screw, did you unplug it, what? The only real memory it has is for DTCs, it doesn't 'adapt' to a driving style or anything

To answer your questions in order: no its not in the diagnostic position; no codes, i replaced the fuel filter; hard reset meaning actually physically using the screw instead of just disconnecting the negative battery cable.

The car has been sluggish since i replaced all the manifold seals, cleaned the tb and iacv, and added the rear header to the rest of my y/header combo and disconnected the battery to try and get the computer to recognize that there werent anymore vacuum leaks and stabilize the idle as well as clear the cel for the vehicle speed sensor that comes up intermittently.

 

Pmohr I need your advice again, the guy I took my car to for the "free" check-up and replacement of faulty parts said that my A/C was warm because I had a leaky valve system.

I was wondering if a valve system was just a bunch of hoses that I could replace or is it something else.

And if so, can I do it myself?

Sorry I didn't search, work in 5 minutes no time to search Promise I'll search next time before I ask.

Looking forward to your reply!

 

Guess it really depends on what he means by 'valve system'. He could mean the High/Low side hookups for gauges/AC machine. Did he happen to give you a written quote/estimate?

If the valves are leaking, then likely the core just needs to be tightened up (unless it's damaged, then hopefully a replacement would fix it). Leaking out all/most of your refrigerant would be the cause of your warm air.

 

He just said valve system is leaking, then he went on to saying that the "free" warranty won't cover the A/C and then when he said it'll be expensive to fix and he won't start on my car until next week (Which is the same thing he said LAST week) I just said forget it, and I'm picking up my car. In addition, I brought my car up to him since June 15th nothing had been done.

You know that starting problem I had, it was a tiny string tied to the OEM scoop and battery tie down thingy that drained the battery! Which caused my starting problem

 

I purchased a 1995 Maxima apparently GXE (leather seats though with factory security but no remote so unsure about what extras specifically). I was having engine shaking so I searched around and was going to do the basics after buying a vehicle - replace plugs, filters and oil. I've replaced plugs with the NGK platinum (all had NGK except one with a bosch), air filter, oil/filter, one coil pack I busted the rubber on, and soon the fuel filter and PCV valve. The engine shakes still but it is sporatic, just as before, but less often. I can't really pinpoint a beginning and ending because there doesn't seem to be any specific event that causes it. I have listened to the tail pipe and I did hear the put put but nothing continual (muffler needs replacing, its leaking I can hear the hiss and see the corroded exterior). Diagnostic is giving no codes now (I left a coil pack unplugged and caused a cylinder to not fire, which sounded just like it does now when it has misfiring issues with the shakes, but coded knock and signal circuit. Cleared them after reconnecting the coil pack. I took it to autozone and their OBD II only gave a knock code.

I just purchased throttle body cleaner in order to clean it out but I do work quite a bit during the week and have little spare cash (just purchased this thing). I don't want to replace all the coil packs, I think one may be going bad, and I can't really unplug then individually because like I mentioned the potential misfire isn't consistent. Any ideas?

I forgot to mention the car passed inspection + emissions the night before I noticed the non-consistent engine shaking. It is enough to make the entire car shake.

I'd prefer to meet this before I throw a cel for misfire when whatever really does die.

 

I had a similar problem on my 99 GLE, when i first got it the engine would shake sporadically and a buddy of mine (and trusted mechanic) told me it could be the connections on the MAF sensor. it wasnt it, he also said if it wasnt the MAF it could be a faulting knock sensor. If its faulting it can retard ur timing or speed it up thus causing a miss fire then go back to normal once it actually feels the knock.

hope this helps a bit, every car is different but every piece of info can help
good luck

 

Your buddy is incorrect, a KS will not cause a misfire or misfire feeling.

 

Hey everyone,

So I just bought a 98 Max GLE with 97k on original motor and tranny. Pretty clean and nice ride. However, when I accelerate the steering wheel feels loose towards the left side and the car will shoot forward. Even if Im turning left! When I let go of the accelerator the car will recatch the grip towards the left side and then I need to cut back to the right to steady her out. This only happens to the left side. When turning right this problem doesnt happen. I dont know what it can possible be. When driving straight it does slightly pull to the right side so a wheel alignment is probably needed but I cant imagine that this could be the cause of the pulling problem. Can anyone help explain this?!? Thanks!

Peter

 

I just got done replacing the PCV valve and its hosing after a trip to autozone for new hose. Looks like it may have been the original so that hosing was quite fragile. Definately no rattle when I shook the old pcv valve. The exhaust is pushing out a small amount of smoke now that it is replaced.

The start up idle was certainly higher but over time it settled, which was fine.

I tapped the MAF earlier, small at first and substantial later, and no change in rpm.

Regarding the knock sensor: I diagnosed a knock and circuit signal problem but that was because I left a coil pack unplugged. I pluged it back in and cleared the ECU and no more codes about 20 hours later. However, OBD II from autozone is pulling a knock sensor code when I had them run it earlier. The ECU was cleared about 3 AM and the OBD II run about 4 PM

Muffler needs replacing and still need to do the fuel filter but if the muffler is corroded or any exhaust corrosion/leak would that cause any back pressure issues causing occassional misfiring?

I've been trying to listen to the exhaust to try and hear misfires but it sounds pretty clean even if I can feel them in the cabin.

Also, I'm going to be replacing belts soon enough just because I don't know when they were last replaced, including timing.

 

Extremely unlikely.

And the VQ has a timing chain (3 of them, actually), not a belt. No worries about that, which is a good thing considering what a major PITA it is to pull the front cover in the car.

 

Next up is the fuel filter and TB cleaning. Is the line into the PCV valve supposed to be internally lined with dirty oil/ carbon deposit? I know where this equilibrates pressure from and to but I would think that it should be fairly clean to keep the PCV from becomming clogged.

 

Yep, it'll get soaked in oil. Rather unavoidable, unless you run a catch can.

 

I was wondering if you could put a 2001 maxima engine in a 1996 maxima and have everything work fine?

 

I don't think I mentioned this but the car passed inspection the day before I noticed this happen. I made the previous owner go get it inspected before I'd buy the car. This is why me seeing even the slightest bit of smoke out of the tailpipe now is curiously odd.

What would cause very occassional misfire/engine shaking? I was under the impression with the coil packs that it is either fail or works but not really inbetween. Happened earlier when I was cruising down the highway and got off and stopped at a redlight and the shaking started.

 

Short answer, yes. Same with a 351, or an LS6, or a B18C5.

Instructions available here.

 

You're more than likely just looking at coil pack failure. They're not really working or not, they will intermittently miss before they finally die outright.

 

I don't like that diagnosis -- can I get another? Hopefully I can find some coil packs cheaper then 75$ I spent at autozone for one.

 

I prefer to get them used, as long as they were working fine when they were pulled they're likely fine. I also tend to grab a few whenever I go to the junkyard, maybe $10 a piece, so I've got a bunch of spares.

 

So what out of those 3 are the best?

 

The LS6, by far. I'd go with an LS7 swap myself, but it's cost prohibitive.

Although if you like torque, the B18 is the way to go.

 

well the KS was the last component i replaced and it fixed the problem. Been drivin for over 60k. Just sayin what i did

 

Seems my car shakes more now and when at lower (sub-1000) rpms.

A general question kind of related to my current issues:

When the ECU spits a knock code that doesn't mean its dead necessarily, it could be tripped from serious knocking?

If the ECU self diag spits a knock and I reset it, I fixed said issue, would the OBD ii spit the knock code too? OBD ii only read a knock code and not the other that self-diag. did. The self-diag isn't showing knock since I reset it and fixed the issue. Issue was leaving the coil pack unplugged.

 

Wow I've been reading all your posts and I'm still scratching my head
You've got a complex problem haha

But the only thing that have been bothering me is that ONE Bosch spark plug, which might be the cause of the knock.

Also I agree with Pmohr I remembered reading a lot about failing coil packs causing the same problems.

This is painfully obvious but has the car been filled with 91 Octane gas, lower octane will probably not cause a knock for you to notice but its worth a shot checking.

 

Your using that AWD system from the GT-R right...thats so easy to do, it all bolts right in.