Originally Posted by pmohr

Then it's some other intermittent issue, and we'll go from there.

Short of the clutch switch, I'm leaning towards a loose connection or worn out ignition switch.

Originally Posted by Jaeinda97

LOL alright no problem with that at all I will definitely check it out 2morrow fill you in on my results i came up with, so this problem has nuffin to do with the slave or master clutch cylinders at all right

Originally Posted by pmohr

No, again the clutch and it's operating components are irrelevant to whether or not the starter will work, short of the clutch switch.

Originally Posted by Blackwind

its fine just widen the bracket some.

Originally Posted by PersianCzar

Well its not about widening it, because its not like the fuel filter case has got bigger. Since elbow is missing, I need a slightly longer tube now (~2 inches). Because filter doesn't even reach the firewall to attach to bracket. With 2 extra inches of tubing, it will get me to the bracket. But even without the filter being in bracket, is it worth all the trouble to correct this or is it ok without??

Originally Posted by pmohr

Are you sure the filter you replaced was OEM? Are you the original owner of the car?

I've never seen an OEM Nissan filter (for the A32, anyway) with an elbow for the upper hose.

Originally Posted by Blackwind

oh i got ya now, you can let the filter hang or you can make this a weekend project and modify a setup that works for you.

Originally Posted by PersianCzar

It would be ideal to correct this. However, I went to courtesy parts to buy this part and it says "This part is no longer made by nissan north america....". This was for the top hose.

So now I gotta take the old fuel filter and get a compatible diameter fuel-grade hose. Where should I check, u think napa or autozone would have ones for other cars that I can take and just modify?

Originally Posted by pmohr

No, again the clutch and it's operating components are irrelevant to whether or not the starter will work, short of the clutch switch.

Originally Posted by pmohr

It's 5/16" or 8mm hose. You can get it in lengths from most parts stores, either off of a spool, or in one of the aisles. Absolutely no need to get it from Nissan, when a 2 foot roll usually goes for ~$8.

Get some new clamps as well.

Originally Posted by eFLO

i have a 99 maxima, throwing 0603, and 0201. i just got a coil and will replace it. but today i took the car in for an oil change, and noticed the exhaust gas was smelling like sulfur. could the misfire in the engine somehow cause the cat to go bad as well?

Originally Posted by Jaeinda97

Hey Pmohr I tried your paperclip to see if it works and it still didnt start im not sure if i even did it right but i did unplugged the clutch switch and stick the paperclip into 1 end and to the other is that the correct way in doing it??.. But regardless the car still didnt start right up

Originally Posted by pmohr

Yes, this is why you should never drive a car when it's misfiring unless absolutely necessary.

Was the CEL flashing?

Originally Posted by eFLO

It was not flashing just solid. Damn, guess that's next on my to do list. could i have screwed anything else up by driving it?

btw thanks for that quick response!! lol

Originally Posted by pmohr

Unlikely. But if it's misfiring heavily, it's dumping raw fuel into the exhaust, which clogs up the cat.

Originally Posted by pmohr

Yes, this is why you should never drive a car when it's misfiring unless absolutely necessary.

Was the CEL flashing?



So you jumped the two pins on the harness with the paperclip, and it still wouldn't start?

I would still bet on the ignition switch, myself.

Originally Posted by Jaeinda97

Nope not a crank at all but alright i was watching this video on youtube on how to check an ignition switch soo i guess when i have time i will go and see if its that.. Do u think my clutch switch is just bad and thats why it wouldnt start just by depressing on the clutch

Originally Posted by pmohr

This one? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ykT9...C2C64F&index=3

The entire point of jumping that harness was to completely bypass the clutch switch, to rule it out. You did get the correct one? You want the one at the bottom of the pedal, not the top.

Originally Posted by Jaeinda97

Yeap Thats the same exact video i seen.. Daamn u gd with this joint 4real but anyways i didnt do it that way at all soo i guess i retry it that way again 2morrow.. and again i will fill you in on my test.. soo do i put both points of the paperclips in the clutch botton??..

Originally Posted by J RO 9

after an alignment on tuesday, i was told that my sway bar end links are shot.
i just wanted to make sure i was going to order the right ones,
are these it?
http://www.courtesyparts.com/54618-a...tml?cPath=1783&

part # 54618-A32B001

Originally Posted by pmohr

No real reason to go OEM IMO, just grab a kit from an auto parts store. Looks like ~$27/side for Moog, ~$20/side for TRW, etc.

Originally Posted by J RO 9

i'm definitely down to save money and get something if it's comparable to OEM. are Moog and TRW brands you are referring to?
and if i went to my local auto parts store, what exactly do i ask for?.. do i ask for a 'sway bar end link kit'?

Originally Posted by jhonny

hi,
so, i've a question for you how long would it take to install the strut mount bearing?
btw i've found some of the strut mount bearings and they are KYB. are they good?

Originally Posted by pmohr

I made that video a little while ago, there are a whole bunch of others there too.

You disconnect the harness from the switch, then you stick the paperclip in the connector for the harness, not the switch itself.

Originally Posted by Jaeinda97

I am happy in 1 way and confused in the other way i did the paperclip and still no start soo i got upset again and just rmr that i watched your post on youtube the other day and decided to just do it and as happy i was it started right up like the video but then i was confused like whats the problem and the cost of it.. Could u help me out again with this??..

Originally Posted by jimr

I bought a used 97 max about 3 months ago. The other day my wife was pulling into the driveway and hit a small pot hole. When she did it like popped out of gear and she coasted to a stop. When I looked at it, it just grinds when you try to put it into any gear. My guess it that the trans is ok but something else is wrong with it. She did say that the day before it was a little odd shifting into second gear but who knows.

I did check under it and nothing seems to be damaged. I am unemployed so I need to fix this myself.... or not! I have always done my own work including engine and trans swaps but that was on American cars for the most part.

Thanks for your help!

Originally Posted by pmohr

So you turned the ignition switch with a screwdriver and it started up fine?

You could try to shim the opening a bit (see the link in the description of my video for DBear's post), or just replace the ignition switch.

48750-1E411, $30.86 each at Courtesy

Originally Posted by pmohr

Well I would assume this is a 5MT, except you say 'auto' in the title (which by the way, never use the title for important information; 99% of the time it'll be overlooked). I posted on another forum - that wanted to be paid for the answer! and they wanted in the title. I guess some know about autos and some mans.


What exactly is 'grinding'? The trans or something else?
Its the trans gears - I feel iy in the shifter

So when it 'popped' out of gear, does this mean that the shift lever physically moved?
I wasnt there so I am not certain but she said it sounded funny and "it didnt go" (lol) when she pressed the gas.

Have you checked trans fluid level and condition?
Yes, it was about half a pint low, smelled fine. I filled it and no help. Same condition.

If you put it into gear, it immediately grinds, or does it only happen when giving it gas? Does this happen with your foot on the brake, or only off?
It immediately grinds going from park to any gear and back. I did have my foot on the brake..... just in case!

Have you observed the axles while putting into gear, and seeing if they all rotate as one piece? It's possible one of the axles broke. Don't assume it's fine with a quick visual, you must actually observe it turning; a CV joint could be broken yet leave the boot intact.
No I havent. I just gave it a quick look. I was in the car and it never seemed to have power to the axles. It never engaged in any gear.

Basically, you'll find the problem by actually finding out exactly what is grinding; this requires you to actually get underneath the car.

Originally Posted by Jaeinda97

Honestly watching your video really solved my problem i cant lie at all but im thinking i am just gonna replace it and hope i can do it myself by putting the ignition switch

My reasons are because the switch turns an extra 3 clicks to start and thats why i couldnt be able to start it with just the key itself i guess all those times when i was depressing the clutch and starting it at the same time messed up the ignition switch even more..

But to experience something new doing on my Max i will definetly try to add a lil tape to it and see what i get but im still getting the switch since its soo cheap..

Are they gonna send it with a complete wire set or just the switch itself??.. cause if its just a plug and play thing i will do it myself no need to pay somebody to do so..

Buts Thanks alot Pmohr u saved me alot of time to bring it to the shop and make them not kno whats wrong.. and make me spend more money for parts i didnt need..

Originally Posted by jimr

I am going to try to make this easy so I will reply to each question after the question!!!! I really do appreciate your help. I have been looking for help for 2 days and then I cam upon this site. TY so much for being here!


I am a big guy and I dont fit! lol I got my head under there and even in park as you rev it a bit there is noise from the trans area.

Hope this helps!

Originally Posted by jimr

Its the trans gears - I feel iy in the shifter

Originally Posted by jimr

I wasnt there so I am not certain but she said it sounded funny and "it didnt go" (lol) when she pressed the gas.

Originally Posted by jimr

No I havent. I just gave it a quick look. I was in the car and it never seemed to have power to the axles. It never engaged in any gear.

Originally Posted by pmohr

Yes, it's the switch itself plus the wiring harness.





Also, don't reply inside of a quote. It means that in order to find out what the hell you said versus what I said, I've got to go through line by line, and edit it manually. There is a quote feature for a reason, you can easily quote each question individually.



All gears in the auto trans are constantly engaged; they never disengage (shouldn't, anyway). Unless one or more broke (rather unlikely), you shouldn't feel any of them.



That could be pretty much anything.




How do you know that it didn't engage in a gear, versus being in gear and the axle making the noise? Even at idle is more than enough to spin a broken axle, and you won't really notice a decrease in RPM.

Have you tried to pinpoint exactly what is grinding, or where?

Can you take a video clip?

Originally Posted by watson

So I replaced my alternator and now I have a constant belt squeeling problem, I tried tightening the belt tensioner but it did not fix it. Even tried belt dressing and its still really bad. Its even squealing when im driving, now the belt is a pretty new belt. Should I try tightening it again to make it tighter? For when I tighten it I have to loosing the pulley and get someone to push down on it since I do not have a bolt to twist. Any help would be greatly appreciated asap since I am going on a road trip tomorrow morning.

Originally Posted by pmohr

You've got a tensioner missing parts, and you're wondering why the belt won't get tight enough?

Fix the tensioner, problem solved.

Originally Posted by watson

Anyway that you could find the part number for me? I looked on courtesy but still couldn't find it, also is it safe to go on this road trip with the belt loose?