NOOBIES: "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread. Read FIRST post BEFORE posting!
Hey, I have a 98 I30t and I am currently having an alternator problem. I got the car a few months ago and everything was smooth and perfect. Then I had to change the cv joints a few weeks ago and the car sat two weeks. After changing the cv joints, I noticed that the battery and brake indicator lights were on (original alternator), so I disconnected the negative with the car running and it immediately shut off. I then (reluctantly) bought a junkyard alternator which worked well for a week and a half, but made squealing noises the whole time (loose belt maybe, which I tightened, maybe too much). The car then died on me one day when the belts stopped squealing (the squealing got worse and worse after I tightened the belt, also these belts were installed brand new on purchase of car). Recharged the battery and the lights came back on (alternator), so I did the alternator test again and sure enough the car immediately died. I am now going to buy a brand new alternator and accessory belt, but I'm afraid the same thing may happen again. Is there some type of electrical short or something that might be killing my alternators?
nobody seems to have an answer for this, including myself. I will be driving, and all of a sudden my gas gauge will sky rocket almost up to full tank (when i have a quarter tank) and then, my engine temp. gauge will do the same thing. I'm stumped. I was thinking maybe a bad thermostat? or maybe bad sensors?
Hey, I have a 98 I30t and I am currently having an alternator problem. I got the car a few months ago and everything was smooth and perfect. Then I had to change the cv joints a few weeks ago and the car sat two weeks. After changing the cv joints, I noticed that the battery and brake indicator lights were on (original alternator), so I disconnected the negative with the car running and it immediately shut off. I then (reluctantly) bought a junkyard alternator which worked well for a week and a half, but made squealing noises the whole time (loose belt maybe, which I tightened, maybe too much). The car then died on me one day when the belts stopped squealing (the squealing got worse and worse after I tightened the belt, also these belts were installed brand new on purchase of car). Recharged the battery and the lights came back on (alternator), so I did the alternator test again and sure enough the car immediately died. I am now going to buy a brand new alternator and accessory belt, but I'm afraid the same thing may happen again. Is there some type of electrical short or something that might be killing my alternators?
I don't think you shorted anything out, you can check your fuses though. What I think happened is you bought a semi-good alternator with a bad bearing (squeling noise) then you over tightened the belt so much you ruined the belt AND then your Alt decided to die. If you get a noise, try to use belt dressing or tire shine spray (old school). that should keep it from slippin for a little while. DO NOT keep tightening tensioner or you'll be back to square 1.
Last edited by B_Eaze; Nov 15, 2008 at 11:39 AM.
nobody seems to have an answer for this, including myself. I will be driving, and all of a sudden my gas gauge will sky rocket almost up to full tank (when i have a quarter tank) and then, my engine temp. gauge will do the same thing. I'm stumped. I was thinking maybe a bad thermostat? or maybe bad sensors?
That is weird. More info needed though. Does you car start bucking/shaking/stall out? Do you have coolant missing? How about the rest of you fluids? If your cars is just idling does it still do the samething?
So I figured out how to post pics, thanks
No I have a question. I am replacing my KS and you see how little space I've got on my 99 Calispec Max. So #2 on third pic is in a way. I was told that it is power valve actuator and con be removed(my friend doesn't have it on his 96 fedspec max). Now to put it back do I need to torque the fasteners, put anti-seize or other type of gel.
Can someone navigate me to a proper section of the FSM for it?
Thank you guys again.




No I have a question. I am replacing my KS and you see how little space I've got on my 99 Calispec Max. So #2 on third pic is in a way. I was told that it is power valve actuator and con be removed(my friend doesn't have it on his 96 fedspec max). Now to put it back do I need to torque the fasteners, put anti-seize or other type of gel.
Can someone navigate me to a proper section of the FSM for it?
Thank you guys again.



KS 99 Calispec http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-99se5spd.html
Someone with small hands (little kid or female) can get a socket over the nut with no prob
Last edited by B_Eaze; Nov 15, 2008 at 11:26 AM.
I have a '97 SE that has 145k mi that I've owned for a year and ~ 16k mi. I highway commute 50mi/day and do not abuse the car- I have other cars for that! The other day my Max developed a grinding in the trans. in 1-4 but then went quite in 5th- it sounded like a throw out bearing to me. Unfortunately, the input shaft had broken. The PO did all in town stop and go driving in Atl., so maybe just too rough, but I'd have to think maybe someone flogged this transmission in the past.
My questions:
1) Anyone have a 4th Gen manual for sale in the Atl area? I'd also consider buying a wrecked car since I could use some other bits. I'd post in the wanted but I can't yet.
2) My trans. is an open model. Is there anything I should know, or any problems that might arise w.r.t. installation, half shaft splines, etc..., if I change over to a limited slip (VLSD) trans- which I would prefer.
Thanks!
Walt
My questions:
1) Anyone have a 4th Gen manual for sale in the Atl area? I'd also consider buying a wrecked car since I could use some other bits. I'd post in the wanted but I can't yet.
2) My trans. is an open model. Is there anything I should know, or any problems that might arise w.r.t. installation, half shaft splines, etc..., if I change over to a limited slip (VLSD) trans- which I would prefer.
Thanks!
Walt
http://forums.maxima.org/southeast-u-s-18/
http://forums.maxima.org/general-max...enerations-47/
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-1995-1999-43/
Or you can search for one here:
www.car-parts.com
Also, IIRC you would only need to get the correct axles for a VLSD tranny (ABS, LSD etc). Good luck
where does this fitting connect? '95 with 4-A/T
I just replaced my engine in my 1995 Max. It has an auto trans. When hooking everything back up, I noticed a bright, shiny fitting on top of my transmission that looks like a vacuum line fitting. I can not for the life of me figure out where it hooks. It comes straight up out of the transmission case and then bends 90 degrees toward the drivers side of the car and is angled slightly toward the back of the car. It is roughly 6-8mm in diameter and is approximately 30mm in length. It looks sooooh much like a vacuum line connection but I'm just not sure. I didn't take notes during disassembly, so I can't remember where it connected. Any help or pictures would be very gratefully received. Please forgive me if this is covered in another thread, but I simply cannot find this topic discussed anywhere on the forum. Thanks!!
So I do have a question.
I have a 2002 Black Maxima SE 6MT, and as a result I have a bose sound system. I want to replace it with after market HU. I have Alpine CDA 7995, which does not have an internal amplifier, so my question is this: Is there a way to swap my alpine in place of bose HU without any re-wiring since they are both line level output? One would think that this problem may have been visited but since I am a new member thought I would post this question. I am open to any suggestions! Thank you.
I have a 2002 Black Maxima SE 6MT, and as a result I have a bose sound system. I want to replace it with after market HU. I have Alpine CDA 7995, which does not have an internal amplifier, so my question is this: Is there a way to swap my alpine in place of bose HU without any re-wiring since they are both line level output? One would think that this problem may have been visited but since I am a new member thought I would post this question. I am open to any suggestions! Thank you.
So I do have a question.
I have a 2002 Black Maxima SE 6MT, and as a result I have a bose sound system. I want to replace it with after market HU. I have Alpine CDA 7995, which does not have an internal amplifier, so my question is this: Is there a way to swap my alpine in place of bose HU without any re-wiring since they are both line level output? One would think that this problem may have been visited but since I am a new member thought I would post this question. I am open to any suggestions! Thank you.
I have a 2002 Black Maxima SE 6MT, and as a result I have a bose sound system. I want to replace it with after market HU. I have Alpine CDA 7995, which does not have an internal amplifier, so my question is this: Is there a way to swap my alpine in place of bose HU without any re-wiring since they are both line level output? One would think that this problem may have been visited but since I am a new member thought I would post this question. I am open to any suggestions! Thank you.
4th Gen Shaky around 70 mph
Since people with less than 15 posts cannot start their own thread, but MIGHT have a legitimate question, I am opening another thread for noobie questions.
First off, I will answer a few general questions:
Q: Why can't I start a new thread?
A: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=413179
Q: Why can't I search maxima.org?
A: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=378748
With that out of the way...
This thread is for the new members so that they are able to post a LEGITIMATE question. It can be ANYTHING that is 4th generation related and NOT covered in the existing sticky threads. If we think it is important, we will either answer or make it into its own thread. If not, I will delete it.
This is only for LEGIT 4th Gen questions that may be specific to one user.
SPAM WILL NOT BE TOLERATED.
This is for noobs only and will be open only as long as I feel like maintaining it.
ALL RESPONSES MUST BE A QUOTE OF THE ORIGINAL QUESTION!
New questions, obviously, need not have any quotes.
Postwhoring will not be tolerated!
-If you get an answer to your question, please move along.
-If you have a followup, by all means, post it.
-No posts to say "Thanks!" (We don't need 10,000 posts thanking someone for helping them out.)
-No posting "I want to know that, too."
-Incorrect answers or answers that are just plain annoying will be removed.
All of these will be deleted. If it gets bad enough, I will just ban you.
Here are some links that will also be helpful:
4th gen FAQs (READ ME! PLEASE! READ ME!):
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=72447
If you are having mechanical problems (INCLUDING a "Check Engine" light), this thread is a GREAT place to start:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=512892
All other sticky threads have answers to common questions, information about common modifications, and other generally good info. I took a week and re-organized it. I did not do this for my own benefit- I don't even OWN a 4th gen.
One more reminder: THIS IS NOT A SUBSTITUTE FOR SEARCHING!!!
How do I search? http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=378748
First off, I will answer a few general questions:
Q: Why can't I start a new thread?
A: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=413179
Q: Why can't I search maxima.org?
A: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=378748
With that out of the way...
This thread is for the new members so that they are able to post a LEGITIMATE question. It can be ANYTHING that is 4th generation related and NOT covered in the existing sticky threads. If we think it is important, we will either answer or make it into its own thread. If not, I will delete it.
This is only for LEGIT 4th Gen questions that may be specific to one user.
SPAM WILL NOT BE TOLERATED.
This is for noobs only and will be open only as long as I feel like maintaining it.
ALL RESPONSES MUST BE A QUOTE OF THE ORIGINAL QUESTION!
New questions, obviously, need not have any quotes.
Postwhoring will not be tolerated!
-If you get an answer to your question, please move along.
-If you have a followup, by all means, post it.
-No posts to say "Thanks!" (We don't need 10,000 posts thanking someone for helping them out.)
-No posting "I want to know that, too."
-Incorrect answers or answers that are just plain annoying will be removed.
All of these will be deleted. If it gets bad enough, I will just ban you.
Here are some links that will also be helpful:
4th gen FAQs (READ ME! PLEASE! READ ME!):
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=72447
If you are having mechanical problems (INCLUDING a "Check Engine" light), this thread is a GREAT place to start:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=512892
All other sticky threads have answers to common questions, information about common modifications, and other generally good info. I took a week and re-organized it. I did not do this for my own benefit- I don't even OWN a 4th gen.
One more reminder: THIS IS NOT A SUBSTITUTE FOR SEARCHING!!!
How do I search? http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=378748
When I hit a speed bump the car feels odd kinda floaty. I am guessing it is the suspension, just wondering if that probably means I have to overhaul it completely with a coilover set.
Any replies will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance, Andy.
I have a 95 Maxima SE, I have noticed lately that once the car gets over 65 mph or so It starts to shake a bit until higher or lower speed is reached.
When I hit a speed bump the car feels odd kinda floaty. I am guessing it is the suspension, just wondering if that probably means I have to overhaul it completely with a coilover set.
Any replies will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance, Andy.
When I hit a speed bump the car feels odd kinda floaty. I am guessing it is the suspension, just wondering if that probably means I have to overhaul it completely with a coilover set.
Any replies will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance, Andy.
If you want a new set up you don't have to get "coilovers" but you can buy a shock thats already assembled with the spring on it, really easy to install.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/part-finder...6851&carId=004
If you want to upgrade you can go the suspension section and find a whole bunch of options
http://forums.maxima.org/advanced-su...is-braking-68/
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...n-updated.html
I just replaced my engine in my 1995 Max. It has an auto trans. When hooking everything back up, I noticed a bright, shiny fitting on top of my transmission that looks like a vacuum line fitting. I can not for the life of me figure out where it hooks. It comes straight up out of the transmission case and then bends 90 degrees toward the drivers side of the car and is angled slightly toward the back of the car. It is roughly 6-8mm in diameter and is approximately 30mm in length. It looks sooooh much like a vacuum line connection but I'm just not sure. I didn't take notes during disassembly, so I can't remember where it connected. Any help or pictures would be very gratefully received. Please forgive me if this is covered in another thread, but I simply cannot find this topic discussed anywhere on the forum. Thanks!!
just as i thought you were talking about a breather that hooks into the stock intake resonator. check it out here http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...1851_1856.html
Anyone would be able to tell me why my car in the morning now that is cold / rainy starts just like this video - altho it goes to 1 1/2 and then just drops.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DHA2g...eature=related
and this EXACTLY like this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qfl9p...eature=related
spark plugs? TB? IAVC? fuel filter? i am outa ideas
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DHA2g...eature=related
and this EXACTLY like this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qfl9p...eature=related
spark plugs? TB? IAVC? fuel filter? i am outa ideas
Hi i just purchased a innova 3130 code reader.
OK here goes
I have no malfunction indicator light on in my dash the car is run perfect.
When i first start the car i don't even see the start up process of the check engine light it's like the last person had the malfunction indicator light turned off ?
the code reader shows code p0400" Exhaust gas Recirculation flow
My question is ,did they take a fuse out to the malfunction indicator light ?
Or the code read just read the last code from car ?
thanks
OK here goes
I have no malfunction indicator light on in my dash the car is run perfect.
When i first start the car i don't even see the start up process of the check engine light it's like the last person had the malfunction indicator light turned off ?
the code reader shows code p0400" Exhaust gas Recirculation flow
My question is ,did they take a fuse out to the malfunction indicator light ?
Or the code read just read the last code from car ?
thanks
Need Help : NO HEAT
Just started having this problem where the car won't warm up. I drive about 13 miles/15 minutes to work, and normally the car is warm in 5-7 minutes or so. Lately it won't warm up, the needle barely moves off the C. If I rail on the car it will warm up, but it goes back to cold in a few minutes.
My radiator and resevoir are full.
What can I do/check out? I was thinking thermostat, but I did read about a diagnostic that can be done on the heating unit or something??
Also, how do I "burp" the system? And if the heater core is plugged, how do I unplug it? I don't think the core is bad, because there is no collant smell, or any drips inside.
Thanks for your help.
PS: it's 28 degrees out right now, and I'm not looking forward to my ride to work
My radiator and resevoir are full.
What can I do/check out? I was thinking thermostat, but I did read about a diagnostic that can be done on the heating unit or something??
Also, how do I "burp" the system? And if the heater core is plugged, how do I unplug it? I don't think the core is bad, because there is no collant smell, or any drips inside.
Thanks for your help.
PS: it's 28 degrees out right now, and I'm not looking forward to my ride to work
Um its most likely your suspension but shaking can be caused by tires not being balanced correctly, worn ball joints or just poor alignment. If you car bounces multiple time after going over a bump then your shocks are probably gone. How many miles do your current shocks have of them?
If you want a new set up you don't have to get "coilovers" but you can buy a shock thats already assembled with the spring on it, really easy to install.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/part-finder...6851&carId=004
If you want to upgrade you can go the suspension section and find a whole bunch of options
http://forums.maxima.org/advanced-su...is-braking-68/
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...n-updated.html
If you want a new set up you don't have to get "coilovers" but you can buy a shock thats already assembled with the spring on it, really easy to install.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/part-finder...6851&carId=004
If you want to upgrade you can go the suspension section and find a whole bunch of options
http://forums.maxima.org/advanced-su...is-braking-68/
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...n-updated.html
I've noticed the wheel gets shaky at speeds over 60 mph but stops at higher speeds. I do not know if the floaty feeling is related or is a whole other problem (suspension?) I actually reduced the tire pressure in one wheel to help alleviate a slight pull to the right side (could be alignment I guess) I may have multiple issues. I wouldn't mind spending what it takes to fix it the right way just looking for some ideas, although it could probably be a handful of potential problems. Also if it is the shocks is it dangerous to drive this way, how long do I possibly have (I know it probably varies tremendously)
Thanks for the reply, any more ideas please keep em coming.
I have checked the audio section and as of yet I haven't found anything about my subject. I am guessing that just swapping it directly with my Alpine for the BOSE system is all but
impossible? Thinking about calling a local installer and see what they think? I guess that couldn't hurt, right! lol Oh well thought it would be an easy thing since they are both line level out but as it seems nothing is easy with BOSE sound system!!!!
impossible? Thinking about calling a local installer and see what they think? I guess that couldn't hurt, right! lol Oh well thought it would be an easy thing since they are both line level out but as it seems nothing is easy with BOSE sound system!!!!
Hi i just purchased a innova 3130 code reader.
OK here goes
I have no malfunction indicator light on in my dash the car is run perfect.
When i first start the car i don't even see the start up process of the check engine light it's like the last person had the malfunction indicator light turned off ?
the code reader shows code p0400" Exhaust gas Recirculation flow
My question is ,did they take a fuse out to the malfunction indicator light ?
Or the code read just read the last code from car ?
thanks
OK here goes
I have no malfunction indicator light on in my dash the car is run perfect.
When i first start the car i don't even see the start up process of the check engine light it's like the last person had the malfunction indicator light turned off ?
the code reader shows code p0400" Exhaust gas Recirculation flow
My question is ,did they take a fuse out to the malfunction indicator light ?
Or the code read just read the last code from car ?
thanks
I have checked the audio section and as of yet I haven't found anything about my subject. I am guessing that just swapping it directly with my Alpine for the BOSE system is all but
impossible? Thinking about calling a local installer and see what they think? I guess that couldn't hurt, right! lol Oh well thought it would be an easy thing since they are both line level out but as it seems nothing is easy with BOSE sound system!!!!
impossible? Thinking about calling a local installer and see what they think? I guess that couldn't hurt, right! lol Oh well thought it would be an easy thing since they are both line level out but as it seems nothing is easy with BOSE sound system!!!!
it'll work as a stock amp so you don't have to change the speakers.
Hello everyone, I think it dumb that I can't start a new thread just because i'm new but whatever. Here is my question : I have a 95 maxima and in the morning after sitting outside in the cold you have to use the gas pedal to start it (ie: give it gas!) if you try to simply turn the key it will never start. (This only applies to first start of a cold day) Is there anything I can do to fix this, or is this just how it is in the cold? Thanks!
Scott Phillips
Scott Phillips
Hello everyone, I think it dumb that I can't start a new thread just because i'm new but whatever. Here is my question : I have a 95 maxima and in the morning after sitting outside in the cold you have to use the gas pedal to start it (ie: give it gas!) if you try to simply turn the key it will never start. (This only applies to first start of a cold day) Is there anything I can do to fix this, or is this just how it is in the cold? Thanks!
Scott Phillips
Scott Phillips
EDIT: typed in "cold start" in the search box and found this one - http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...em-reward.html - might help.
Last edited by allensteiner21; Nov 18, 2008 at 11:20 AM.
though a search would have clearly led him to that thread which would have made more sense to post in.
it's hard to say what it might be though, ain't it? TPS maybe?
Last edited by allensteiner21; Nov 18, 2008 at 01:08 PM.
Yes, it is a dumb rule. I can see how it would help people from posting dumb things before searching, however, I DID search through the forums and found no clear answer to my question, I then tried to post and found out that I could not do so. I guess I could resort to posting 13 more lame posts in this thread......
Yes, it is a dumb rule. I can see how it would help people from posting dumb things before searching, however, I DID search through the forums and found no clear answer to my question, I then tried to post and found out that I could not do so. I guess I could resort to posting 13 more lame posts in this thread......
for your problem...it's hard to say man. might be moisture on a sensor etc. check your tps and cps.
Anyone would be able to tell me why my car in the morning now that is cold / rainy starts just like this video - altho it goes to 1 1/2 and then just drops.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DHA2g...eature=related
and this EXACTLY like this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qfl9p...eature=related
spark plugs? TB? IAVC? fuel filter? i am outa ideas
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DHA2g...eature=related
and this EXACTLY like this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qfl9p...eature=related
spark plugs? TB? IAVC? fuel filter? i am outa ideas
Yes, it is a dumb rule. I can see how it would help people from posting dumb things before searching, however, I DID search through the forums and found no clear answer to my question, I then tried to post and found out that I could not do so. I guess I could resort to posting 13 more lame posts in this thread......
To answer your question, please do a quick search on 'ECTS' or 'cold start issue' and read all about it. It's more than likely your ECTS sensor.
That's only partially true. The real reason for the 15 post rule si to keep spammers and junk posts away. This practice works very well IMO.
I just purchased a 1995 nissan maxima and I'm up here in Canada. I need to replace my automatic axles but I don't know if I have LSD or not. I don't have any time to jack up the car and check the wheel rotation test before I purchase new axles. Is there a code on the body of the car that can tell me whether I have an open differential, or a limited slip?
On my altima, There is a transaxle code on the door sticker. V for the tranny means Limited Slip, and A means open diff. My maxima is parked at my cousin's house right now so I can't check. Just looking for an online confirmation or explaination. If someone can respond to me asap that'd be great cause I want to do the axle replacement early tomorrow morning.
BTW, its an SE model with an automatic transmission.
On my altima, There is a transaxle code on the door sticker. V for the tranny means Limited Slip, and A means open diff. My maxima is parked at my cousin's house right now so I can't check. Just looking for an online confirmation or explaination. If someone can respond to me asap that'd be great cause I want to do the axle replacement early tomorrow morning.
BTW, its an SE model with an automatic transmission.
I just purchased a 1995 nissan maxima and I'm up here in Canada. I need to replace my automatic axles but I don't know if I have LSD or not. I don't have any time to jack up the car and check the wheel rotation test before I purchase new axles. Is there a code on the body of the car that can tell me whether I have an open differential, or a limited slip?
On my altima, There is a transaxle code on the door sticker. V for the tranny means Limited Slip, and A means open diff. My maxima is parked at my cousin's house right now so I can't check. Just looking for an online confirmation or explaination. If someone can respond to me asap that'd be great cause I want to do the axle replacement early tomorrow morning.
BTW, its an SE model with an automatic transmission.
On my altima, There is a transaxle code on the door sticker. V for the tranny means Limited Slip, and A means open diff. My maxima is parked at my cousin's house right now so I can't check. Just looking for an online confirmation or explaination. If someone can respond to me asap that'd be great cause I want to do the axle replacement early tomorrow morning.
BTW, its an SE model with an automatic transmission.
See post 45.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...updated-2.html
and post 4 here.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...e-updated.html
Though the rule for starting a new thread for a noob is rather unwanted by most of us, however it is a rule that has been applied so it is what it is. I am guessing they had some sort of problems in the past with double threads, spams, etc. It isn't like we really have a choice in that matter!!
Thanks for the reply, I have roughly 150K on the shocks.
I've noticed the wheel gets shaky at speeds over 60 mph but stops at higher speeds. I do not know if the floaty feeling is related or is a whole other problem (suspension?) I actually reduced the tire pressure in one wheel to help alleviate a slight pull to the right side (could be alignment I guess) I may have multiple issues. I wouldn't mind spending what it takes to fix it the right way just looking for some ideas, although it could probably be a handful of potential problems. Also if it is the shocks is it dangerous to drive this way, how long do I possibly have (I know it probably varies tremendously)
Thanks for the reply, any more ideas please keep em coming.
I've noticed the wheel gets shaky at speeds over 60 mph but stops at higher speeds. I do not know if the floaty feeling is related or is a whole other problem (suspension?) I actually reduced the tire pressure in one wheel to help alleviate a slight pull to the right side (could be alignment I guess) I may have multiple issues. I wouldn't mind spending what it takes to fix it the right way just looking for some ideas, although it could probably be a handful of potential problems. Also if it is the shocks is it dangerous to drive this way, how long do I possibly have (I know it probably varies tremendously)
Thanks for the reply, any more ideas please keep em coming.
Though the rule for starting a new thread for a noob is rather unwanted by most of us, however it is a rule that has been applied so it is what it is. I am guessing they had some sort of problems in the past with double threads, spams, etc. It isn't like we really have a choice in that matter!! 

No complaints here. I got what I was looking for thanks to you guys.




