balkan

^ Those may work (for a while, until they blow) with your stock struts but your ride quality will suck - you'll be bouncing all over the place. Take it from someone who has made that mistake before.

Get yourself a decent spring/strut combo or don't do it at all.

schaery

My 98 Maxima has recently started missing when idling. Also, if I'm cruising (stuck behind a slow person) between 30 - 40 mph, it misses horribly but not if I'm accelerating between 30-40. However, it doesn't do this all the time but seems to get worse the longer I drive. No codes are showing up. Mechanic changed plugs and fuel filter. Said the next thing would be the coils but no way to know which one is bad since no code is showing up. Two things if this helps - just came back from Smoky Mountains (I live on Gulf Coast), and the missing seemed much worse, I assume having something to do with the altitude. And I'm not positive this isn't just coincidental but it seems that the missing stops when idling if I put it in neutral. Haven't done that one enough times yet to make a definite determination.

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated as I don't have time or money to fix something that may or may not be helpful.

aczace87

Hi my friends maxi 99 tranny died so i need to strip all of his sensors like knock sensor, hood and left fender.. to put on my maxi 97.. dont really know where or how to take out the sensor. plz help im getting it for free and i do need it.

Conrad283

iTrader: (2)

Check the fuse panel (right where your left knee is) for a blown fuse.

Also, check your grounds.

I have H&R's and they're nice. The KYB AGX's are rough in the cold weather. People around here seem to like tokico blues.

Check the how-to thread for changing out the knock sensor, but take his out first and inspect it for any damage. You don't want to put in a broken piece of equipment.

What other sensors are you taking?

The hood and fender are pretty self explanitory as they just bolt on.

schoeby

That will do it. Dumb mistake. Thank you again.

If your driver side axle is only in the trans this far:

keep pushing.

ceboyd

anyone here know if people have before and after dyno numbers for 4th gen y-pipe changes.. I keep hearing/seeing posts about how this is a must do mod and 15-20hp gain but at what point? (at what loss in low end?).. what are real world numbers?

95franklin

I just recently had a misfire problem. Check your fuel injectors and your coils. Fuel injectors should be around 11.5 ohms. If they're measuring 0 ohms they're probably dead. There are a bunch of threads on it so if you need more info searching will help you a lot.

aackshun

iTrader: (3)

If anything at all you gain more of a low end... it's not like you're adding a 3 inch exhaust, you're just removing a few stilly OEM bends in the Y-pipe which was probably put there to quiet the car down a bit. Now don't take that last part of the sentence the wrong way, as long as you keep the stock muffler you will have a pretty mellow/quiet exhaust.


MY QUESTION!

While inspecting my car today I saw that my tranny said "Nissan Japan 38U" on it, I googled around a bit and found that the 38U is also stamped on the MEVIs, but why is it on my 5spd tranny? Is this normal?

FYI. The previous owner did replace the tranny.

MaxiNone

iTrader: (1)

^^^my guess would be that the same was used from 95-01 since its kinda the same motor. but i'm new to this maxima scene so like i mentioned its just a guess...

95franklin

I have a little question. My engine was not heating up very well, basically if I let it idle for a long time it might heat up, but when I'd turn on the heat or drive anywhere it would cool down and I'd get no heat. So, I measured the resistance (I can't remember what it was then) and I replaced the ECTS. I measured the resistance of the new ECTS and it was about 4 kohms (or the like, I can't remember that either). Anyway, it worked good for a dew days, but now it still takes a long time to heat up and sometimes if I turn the heat on it'll cool back down.

When I purchased the ECTS from Partsource the lady that brought it to the counter definitely slammed it on the counter. Is that bad? (I was a little shocked when she did it) Should I take it back or is there something else that would contribute to the engine not heating up very fast. (It takes at least 10 mins at about 80 km/h for it to get mildly warm).

Thanks

aackshun

iTrader: (3)

Most people wouldn't consider that a problem... Anywho... Did you check your heater core? Because for the heat to work up here in KS for my car the temp gauge only needs to get above C before my toes get toasty...

gard73

I have a 97' gxe. It has 231000 so I assume thats the main problem. Anyway it started to cut out while driving and die when I stop. Doesn't do it all the time either. Any Ideas are appreciated. If nothing else it's going to be put up for parts.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

ECTS won't affect how quickly you warm up. Sounds like your thermostat is stuck open or your heater core is plugged.

RellMaxima

quick question about tachometer swap i have a 97 max with the manual odometer mileage but if i want to swap it with a 98 or 99 computerized tachometer would this work or is it more to it????

aackshun

iTrader: (3)

Computerized odometer not tachometer, right? It won't work because the odometer uses the mileage that's stored on the ECU... and since it' isn't stored on the 97 ECU then it won't work.... You can have two trip functions though!

95franklin

Ok, I'll look around for some heater core info!

The thermostat. Is that what the picture points to in the how-to section? (I believe it's labeled as ECTS, but it's definitely not). I guess either way I have drain the coolant, which is ok because it looks kinda milky. I wish had looked into this before winter. lol.

Thanks to both of you.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Change out the thermostat, more than likely it's stuck open.

The only thing I see in the howto thread is the thermostat replacement VQpower page, here - http://www.vqpower.com/v2/articles.php?article_id=150

Incorrect. The ECU has nothing to do with the mileage on the cluster.

It'll bolt right in, but there's also 'more to it'. Did you search?

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ter-95-no.html

Is just the first of many.

Basically, you just need to wire in the 98/99 cluster harness, run B+ to the cluster for the trip meter, and you're done.

95franklin

Gotcha. Thanks. I really appreciate your help.

addanis01

sorry guys but im a newbie to this......can anyone tell how i can check how many post i have ?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Look next to your name.

Newbie? You've been here longer than most.

Jones99

I have a 99 max i want more power i put an injen cold air intake with k&n air filter unorthdox pulley and greddy catback but thats not enough any suggestions please help

Conrad283

iTrader: (2)

00VI, Headers/Y-pipe, S/C, Turbo, NOS

okiemaxowner

well my factory alarm on my 97 max was working and then all of a sudden it stopped working and it wont arm itself.i dont have a keyfob so if someone can help me make it where it will start working please let me know. when i close the door on my car the alarm light that used to blink now stays solid.i dont know what happened.please if someone knows some tricks i can try to get it working i would appreciate it.thanks.

watson

iTrader: (3)

I've got a problem here, whenever I start my car it will start but just die instantly. If I rev it before it dies it stays on and is fine after that but it is initial starts that just die unless revved. What could cause this? Thanks!

paramedicsk8er

okay here is a really weird question. about two months ago my Speed Control Sensor went out so i have no idea how fast im going unless i keep up to traffic! anyways i tried pulling it out but it just keeps breaking. does anyone have any tricks? i tried spraying it down with some silicone spay and WD40 but still nothing! i even tried sharpening a brake drum tool to get under it and pry it out! still nothing

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Nothing you did is going to net you much power at all. Hell, the Injen alone is traveling backwards...

Best bang for the buck for cheap is a Y-pipe. Spend a little more, VQ35 swap.

Did you do anything, have anything done, or did anything happen to the car immediately prior to this new behavior?

Follow these diagnostics and report back:



Rather common occurrence. Clean the TB and IACV, see if it helps any.

You mean the VSS? Did you remove the hold down bolt?

What do you mean keeps breaking? If it's broken, it should be easy to remove.

JeffD

I have a 98 Nissan Maxima. It has over 200,000 miles my daughter wants it But I dont know whether to have the engine or transmission replace as in new or rebuilt.
I know it needs some TLC on the body (paint a little) and some interior.

Just need a legitamate mechanic in Houston to head me in the right direction.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Is there anything currently wrong with the engine or trans? If not, why rebuild/replace?

itwillrun

Okay so my question is concerning the quaife lsd for the 4th gen and maybe the 3rd gen. I plan on using the lsd for my car because the only difference is the spindles on the axles but I already solved that problem. However I am curious to one if anyone is selling one and two if I can start a more advanced thread specifically talking about just the lsd's for this car.

sgtboehn

iTrader: (3)

Project daily driver! Well I purchased my maxima a couple of months ago for 400 bucks! blown head gasket at 150,000 miles, I found a replacement motor for 200 bucks with only 42,000 miles!
I am pretty new to the maxima as far as working on them but i know they have a pretty good history as far as reliability and have alot of potential to be a pretty fast little car.
Im basically just looking for a little advice on what to look for while i am in the process of ripping the motor out, and what to look for before i drop the replacement. And where to look for replacement parts and such.

I have already ordered the Rad support as it looks to have taken a pretty light hit in the front end and basically rotted out. ( i understand the rad supports were not that great)It also looks to have crinkled the front of the frame the slightest bit, i shouldnt have a problem getting that fixed at the body shop. I will be replacing the radiator and A/C condenser, ebay has some pretty good deals on those parts!
I will need to replace the exhaust, rims and tires, the entire stereo system was taken out, no speakers or head unit. Has leather interior with the moonroof and spoiler, not a bad little car pretty solid just the typical surface rust underneath.
I appreciate any input and advice, and if you happen to have any of these parts laying around and want to get rid of them please feel free to contact me. Thanks!
email: sgtboehn@hotmail.com

RiDe DaH MaX

ihave a 97 max wit 125xxx wuts the best oil filter and wut oil should i buy??

itwillrun

I have a question you say you are replacing the exhaust, is this because of the rust you were talking aobut? And is there rust in your engine bay?

sgtboehn

iTrader: (3)

Well with the head gasket gone a lot of fluid was blowing out the exhaust, not to mention i believe a couple of hangers are broken because when i could get it running with the blown head gasket on acceleration it was slapping and banging around pretty good. It also looks as if it is the factory exhaust if im not mistaken.
The engine bay is pretty clean i dont see any rust. Just the under carriage as it was sitting in a yard collecting moisture!

itwillrun

It probably is best just replacing it all than. I would recommend recoating the engine bay if possible because I do know that is a problem with nissan and a rusted strut tower isn't what you want a year after doing all the restoration work. Just wondering you were talking about it being a speedy little car what are your end plans for it, return it to factory spec or more?

sgtboehn

iTrader: (3)

Well first and foremost i just want to get it on the road, my lifted wrangler and 70 miles round trip back and forth to work is starting to work on my wallet a bit. Depending on how the vehicle performs and how im feeling about it, it is possible that it could see some upgrades and possibly a turbo, not sure yet only time will tell.

Aburn95

iTrader: (1)

History: 97 auto with 146K. Had for a few months and never started right from the day I bought it. It also jerks kinda hard when stepping on/off the throttle and fumbled around when shifting at slower acceleration. Since I've had it, it's only gotten worse all around. It ran pretty smooth after starting, with a little hesitation every now and then from a dead stop. Now it hesitates more, idles rougher, and has a harder time starting. It also seems to fubmble around more when shifting sometimes.

The starting problem is like everyone elses on here: starts ok at first, starts even better after driving it (to me), then if it sits for 45 min or more, it doesn't want to start.

The codes it had at first were the knock sensor code (which was replaced with little improvement shown anywhere), and the P0150 O2 sensor code. I recently took it to the Nissan dealer for a diagnostic. Before that though I replaced the fuel filter. The codes it reads now are P0100 MAF, P0150 O2 sen, and P0600 A/T Comm Line.

The dealer also ran fuel pressure tests and told me I needed a new fuel pump and that would fix my starting problem. I replaced it with an Autozone pump (I was told this was actually a Bosch which is what came on the car. That true?) With the first one, I had worse starting problems and it stalled out after driving with no restart. I replaced it and all the clamps, and it started just a little better than before taking it to the dealer. A little. It then started a little quicker the first time in the day or after a long long time of sitting.

I read and read on here, and decided that I either needed a new ECTS or FPR. I of course went with the cheaper one and replaced it earlier this week. Now my car has an even harder time starting. It takes a long time to start the first time, and even longer after its ran and sat for 45 min. WHY IN THE WORLD would putting this new part on and replacing the old corroded one make my car run worse? I also think it may be affecting the overall performance. PLEASE HELP!!

Aburn95

iTrader: (1)

Should I try a dealer part? I mean i'm scared as hell to pull that harness plug off again. i feel like the wires will come out or it will crumble.

riccohou

iTrader: (3)

how do i install foglights onto my 95 if i never had any. i noticed it was prewired. i have the fogs/brackets and relay. i dont have the switch. what else is needed

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Did you search?

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...og-lights.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-fogs-gxe.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ights-gxe.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...questions.html

...etc.

If the harness is all corroded and falling apart, that could very well be the issue. Replace the pigtail.

Have you checked to see what the ECU is reading from the ECTS when it's hard to start? Have you checked the start signal fuse in the interior fuse box?

Aburn95

iTrader: (1)

I don't have anything to check it with personally (ECTS that is). I have not check the start signal fuse. And could you tell me where to get a new pigtail?

Thanks!