yo guys ok so i changed the alternator. but now when i turn it on the battery and brake light stay on. can it be that since the battery and alternator died on me that the battery is drained and even though the new alternator is on that the battery is charging it self what is the danger of that should i just get it charge.

 

no special arms needed, you just need to destroy the bushings in there to replace them with poly.
sounds like a defective alternator to me.

 

I got my front struts installed and now when i turn right on 97 maxima it feels as if the tire is touching something. not sure what to do?

 

did you have it aligned after they installed the struts?

 

i just blew my head gasket on my 4th gen. i thought about fixing it it but i got a very good deal on a 5th gen vq30.

would it swap in no problems or would modification need to be done?

i know its the same engine and all thats really different is the intake manifold, but i just want to make sure before i make my desicion.

 

you would want to hook up the DE-K's intake so it's functional, beyond that I couldn't tell you

 

ok so i just took the battery to autozone and i was told that the battery was not good it was at 6.13 so they are going to charge it and see if that was the problem could it have been that, because when i brought the car home from work after it was jump started it was just driving on the battery power. so can it be that just that. im in no mood to take the alternator off this week im so sore from working on that yesterday and then going to work for 10 hours standing and walking around.

edit: ok so the battery was low and the alternator was fried (the new one) went yesterday and got another one, the battery was charge now and the car is good now yay! took me 30 minutes to do the whole job not bad.

 

ok i have a question i bought a 98 maxima se with no front grill and cefiro one piece headlights so the guy told me all u need is the grill so i bought the grill and it doesnt stay on because its missing the headlight brackets that are on the stock headlights what can i do please send me a detailed message on how to keep the stock grill on

 

exactly what brand and model of side skirts does this guy have on his 98 maxima ???

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2508562
Thanks ^^

 

I recently installed a replacement MAF in my 95 Max, 5sp because the old one was starting to go bad. Once installed, the car started fine, but shutdown after about 20min. I took the car to a mechanic and he determined that the ECU is fried.... Now, is it possible for the the MAF to damage the ECU. Aren't these equipped with a fuse or fail safe to prevent this sort of thing?
A friend mentioned if I get a used ECU from a junk yard that I replace the TPS and IACV just to be safe and perform a relearn. However, he was not sure about how to go about doing a re-learn. Does anyone know how to do this on a 4th generation max? Do I really need to replace the TPS and IACV? If so, can I get these from a junk yard, too or should I buy new? The IACV is kind of expensive new.... Any information you guys can provide will be greatly appreciated!

 

Hi everyone. My front passenger door and part of the fender was hit in a parking lot while I was shopping. Unfortunately I dunno who did it. Now the door doesnt close all the way and there is a crack along the A to B pillar.

Im trying to decide if it worth replacing the door or just get rid of the car. For the record, Ive owned it new since 1995 and it only has about 82k on it and runs great. Thanks.

 

Pics?
chances are it is worthwhile to fix and keep the car.

 

Hi shalashashka, and welcome !! - If you've taken good care of your car, you probably will want to keep it. Are you in good climate like FL, AZ, CA ? That would make the car a gem. You can probably get it fixed for a few hundred $$; low miles are worth keeping. I've got a 98 with about 130k, which is average mileage around here, and I'm spending a couple K$ to keep its body repaired. That's about replacement cost here, but I've got lots of mech work already done. Alot depends on what you want to spend, and if you still want to keep the car. It could be worth 3-4K$ with low miles, but only if someone is looking for that age.

 

Hello there.

I own a '96 Maxima, 5 speed. And of late I've been having problems with my Reverse lights. All the other lights in the car are working just fine but somehow I can't get the Reverse lights to work. The filaments on the bulbs are in perfect shape and are the originals from when I bought the car. I've already checked all the fuses in the car and not one was burnt.

One thing I have realized is that it might be a problem with the clutch. I had it replaced last August. The lights were confirmed to be working when it was installed though. They went out in late September of this year. Occasionally it takes me 3 to 4 tries to get the gear shift into reverse.

I really don't know what to do on this.

 

Well Im located in NJ so the car has seen its share of snow. The paint is somewhat faded but no rust since I made sure I washed frequently in the winter. Overall I would describe the body as good to fair. Has never been in a collision but the bumpers are a little beat up having spent some time in NY and being bumped while parallel parked. No mechanical problems since I made sure every issue was addressed and the car has not been modified.

Im just wondering how much a door typically costs and where would I get one...a wrecker Im guessing. Also would I be able to remove the door myself or do I need to go to a shop? I dont want to pay for labour since it is likely going to cost more than the car is worth and I was looking to sell it soon anyway.

 

I'd try going around to a few scrap yards too. I got a door for my old Altima for about $75. The doors themselves are pretty easy to remove as long as you're careful about the inside panel.

 

I would check the Reverse light switch / Neutral safety switch.

 

Where exactly is that? I can't find it on my manual.

 

MT-6 in the FSM (1996 and 1995 ones at least)

 

Guys,
I want to replace my emergency brake boot on my 96 maxima, how do you get the old one off? TIA

 

does anyone know ???

i really need theses side skirts

 

Quick question, was underneath my 95 Maxima and dropping it off the jackstands to pull the motor, I placed the floor jack under the drivers side door on the frame rail and noticed it was pretty soft as the floor jack was pushing it up and the vehicle wasnt moving. Is that something normal for these cars? Doesnt appear to be rusted, but I understand it is close to 15 yrs old. Thanks.

 

In my experience over the last decade with my car, I'd say there might be some framework damage to it. I lifted my '96 Max earlier this month to get at the rotors and it lifted with little problem. But then again I might try repositioning the jack. I had the same problem with my '88 legend, it would only move when the jack was as close to the wheel well as I could get it.

I'm hardly an expert though.

 

There is no jackpoint under the door. you need to move a bit further forward, there is a double construction with a notch for the scissor jack.

Alternatively, you can jack from the subframe attachment point.

 

Thanks for the responses, your right, after I went back out and looked I was back a little bit too far as I was trying to compensate for the bad floor construction in my garage, as I was trying to get inline with the hoist to pull the motor out. All is well and the motor is out, time to clean up the engine bay a bit do a few other things to prep and get ready for the replacement motor!

 

Does anyone know where I could get some Angel Eye Halo Projector Headlights for my 1996 Nissan Maxima that are better than the ones being sold at: http://depoautolights.com/infiniti-b...901bffdf67eef3

I really want Angel Eye Halo Projector Headlights for my Maxima but there aren't any good ones. It would be great if someone could make some cool ones and sell them. I would make some for my Maxima but I don't know how and don't have the time to make them. I have spent countless hours surfing the web trying to find some lights for my car but haven't found any.

 

I have a couple questions. I'm about to replace my thermostat and coolant. I've done a little reading around the forums and I'm curious about what exactly has to be done. Since it's below freezing here I don't want to make it into too large of a job. So, do I have to drain the coolant from the engine block (the plugs on the bottom of the engine) to replace the thermostat or is just the radiator ok?

Depending on the response I have another question.

If I have to drain the block, what's the easiest way (I've read it's not possible without removing the y-pipe or headers)?

OR

If I don't have drain the block, what's the best way to flush out the old coolant? Is it acceptable to use the same drain pan as the one I use to change my oil?

That's it for now, thanks a lot.

 

Firstly, thanks for internetautomar's previous reply. Finally got the front LCAs and bushings changed =)

Any recommendations for getting new motor mounts for my '95 Max? Auto tranny. And is this possible DIY?

Was quoted 2 hours of labor to change em.

 

Does anyone have a large, clear picture of Travis' timing ring for the 6 speed swap so I can use it as a template for a machinist?

 

yes it is DIYable, and if you plan on keeping the car, go with OE or get/fill yours with Poly.
if you go poly you will feel more vibration from the motor though.

 

quick question. i have a 95 max 5spd and when i start it in cold weather i have to rev the engine to keep it running or it will shut off. i have to do this for about 30 secs and then it runs fine. this only happens when its cold, any idea why

thanks

 

I want to know if it would e possible to change my power side mirrors to the ones from a nissan primera. I like the idea of having some power folding mirrors. here is what im talking about...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...71196&viewitem=

Please let me know.
Thanks

 

clean your IAC valve first

 

im new to site and im looking for advise im in process of buying a 99 maxima 75k blown head gasket for 2g its a auto would motor swap be best or pull heads inspect and go frm there

 

I checked through all the stickies and searched, which seems to be a pretty prickly issue here, so I'm gonna go ahead and post. But it's probably been covered before.

Is there any buyer's guide or something to that effect for the 4th-gen Maxima? I'm going to go look at one tomorrow and don't know what I should look out for.

 

motor swap would be much easier since you won't have to monkey with the timing chains and the labor between the 2 is pretty close in book time.

I haven't seen any really special failure points on any of my A32s. Just check them as you would any other car. Look for leaks, check all the lights, the horn, the wipers, the brakes, the windows, sunroof etc..
Check to make sure the car is running on all 6 cylinders.

 

I am in the middle of a motor swap on a 95 Max (basically a rebuild), and from the information ive received on the forums and trouble ive run into on my vehicle, definitely check out the rad support as these are very common for rotting out, also check out the strut towers, Has this car been sitting? Is it running? How many miles? I bought my 95 max with a blown head gasket at 158000 miles for 400 bucks, and I found a replacement motor with 42,000 miles for 200 bucks. Check the frame rails for any light front end hits, look for rust or cracks on the suspension, lower control arms and such, check the cv boots for cracks or rips. Just my 2 cents as these are some of the things I have run into as of late, Im sure that there is more. Good luck and let us know how it goes!

 

It went well until just now, when I realized that things was fishy.

The title and bill of sale have a name on them that is not the name of the guy who sold me the car. I would be fine with that if there wasn't already a name (and address, and signature) on the back of the title to whom the car was supposed to be sold. The seller is telling me that that's a mistake, and it should be ignored. But I don't think the state will just ignore it; the title clearly states not to accept anything that's been altered or mutilated.

My suspicion is that the seller bought the car, never registered it, and just wrote up documents to look like the old owner was still selling it. I also believe what he told me: that the guy whose name is on the back was all set to buy the car and backed out at the last minute. Again, I would totally not care and just go register the car except for that filled-out section on the back; there is no explaining that away and I can't just cross it out. That means a new title has to be obtained, and that means I have to go to the guy who owned the car before the guy I bought it from. I really don't want to have to do that.

Is there any chance that the state (IL) will just let me "cross out" the extra name on the title? Or can I perhaps have it registered to both of us and then take the other guy's name off immediately? I'm starting to feel like I should just back out of this whole mess and try to get my money back...but $1500 for a pretty loaded 5spd SE is a good deal and I like my car (drove something like a hundred miles on the first day).

Thanks in advance for the advice you can give...it's 4AM and I am flipping a **** about this instead of getting some sleep.

 

An hour of freaking out later I feel a little better.

The extra name is in the "dealer reassignment" field on the back - a field which shouldn't have anything in it for a private sale. Meanwhile, the field for the buyer's name, signature, and the odometer reading are all blank - meaning that, excepting the filled-out info on the back, the title is good to go.

Assuming they don't raise a stink about the dealer reassignment on the back, which they shouldn't 'cause they can just ignore it to issue me a new title, all will be peachy. Of course, bureaucracy being bureaucracy, they won't ignore anything, but I feel better about my chances of getting through this without a ton of paperwork and running across town to beg for signatures from people I've never seen.

So, uh, the car is a '97 SE 5spd with 135k, "pebble beige," seems mostly pretty good. I'm a little suspicious of the strut tower brace bar, the debadging, and the stupid shift ****, and it rides kinda hard like my friend's old 300ZX TT (though it doens't look low, so I don't think the springs hav ebeen cut). But it doesn't seem too badly abused and for $1.5k I'm not expecting to take Pebble Beach by storm. It goes, it stops, it's got Bose and sunroof and all the SE goodies. No complaints, assuming I can eventually legally own it.

Sorry for all the words..I am still half-freaking out about this and I don't think I will sleep well tonight. But I'm at least a little bit reassured so good night

 

as long as it just a dealer assignment signed in back IL will let you transfer the title as long as you have a bill of sale with the sale price of the vehicle which you have to pay full RETAIL tax on.
Since you are in illinois I can help you get a title as long as you have an original (defaced or not)