TNation

On my 1998 Nissan Maxima SE, I have a Check Engine Soon light that went on. It indicates that my Air Intake Sensor (code 142 i believe) is too blame. How do I remove this stupid code and fix the problem? I have an ecu register which tells me what the code is and I can reset the ecu, but everytime the ecu is reset, the code reappears 3 minutes later... any help would be greatly appreciated!

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

did you look in the stickies yet? There should be an explanation. Also, fix the problem and the code won't come back every 3 minutes. I'm sure you just need a new AIS.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

No that wouldn't cause the car not to run. Both of those sensors have two things in common though which will help make your diagnosis easier possibly......

#1, Both crankshaft sensors (there is two, ref and pos, with seperate codes) and the camshaft sensor code can all be tripped by dificult starting, problems with the starting system itself, etc.

#2, they both share the same ground. On the upper intake manifold, remove the 2 10mm bolts, pry apart all the ground straps, sand and clean all sides & the upper intake, and bolt them back up.

If you don't have any starting issues, and after cleaning the grounds you still have the codes, download the FSM on Phatg20.net and refer to the EC section for your specific code and the entire steps to trouble shoot it.

TNation

what is an AIS? and i can't figure out what the problem is and it IS NOT in the stickies

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Air Intake Sensor. You sure you have the correct code? There is no code 142

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Check your belts first, and adjust/replace if nescassary. You could have an alternator problem, however it sounds to me like a possible problem with the ficd/iacv valve. the fast-idle control device; which is built into the idle air control valve; raises the idle during a/c operation, high electrical load, and power-steering operation. You can use the search feature to research cleaning your iacv valve, I'm not going to bother going into that, also inspect the hoses going to/from it. It also might just need an idle adjustment, black plastic screw located on iacv. To adjust/check proper idle speed on an automatic drive around for 10-15 minutes, then with the car in park make sure your a/c, radio, lights, etc are all OFF, idle speeed should be 650 rpms. If it's not use the black plastic screw on the iacv valve to adjust it. Also, while idling at 650, if the ficd is working properly if you use any accessories, like turning the steering wheel for example, the idle should dip down for just a second then rise back to 650 again (+/- 50 rpms)
You'll notice I link people to phatg20.net alot, the FSM is your freind

TNation

the error code its P0110

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Yup, that is IAS

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Ok I knew there was a different code. So yes that is in the stickies. The problem can be caused from a few things. Incorrect voltage could be the problem. The harness or connectors could be shorted and causing a problem. Or the IATS could be bad all together. So you need to test the IATS.

Disconnect the harness from the IATS and connect a voltmeter to the terminals. With the ignition in the ON position there should be 5.0 V. If the reading is wrong you need to check the wiring between the IATS and the PCM.
The other way to do it is check the ohms on the terminals when the engine is cold. Then warm the engine to operating temp and turn it off. Then check the ohms again.
Resistance values should be ...
- at 14 degrees F, 7.0-11.4 Kohms
- at 68 degrees F, 2.1-2.9 Kohms
- at 176 degrees F, 0.27-0.38 Kohms

If things are not correct you need a new IATS.

padudley

if i remove the coilpack and the plug, should i be able to see the fire from the plug?? I can feel the shock, but i cant see the fire. please respond asap!!

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

[Removing the coilpack will remove the firing mechanism. BTW, what exactly are you trying to do?

padudley

im trying to see whether or not the car is firing. if i remove the coilpack and the plug, then turn the car over, should the fire be physically visible or should it just be able to be felt

unclpaule

hey guys. I just recently put new struts and shocks on. Also, new stablizer bar links and bushings. Though the handling has improved, the car still shutters over medium sized cracks in the road. Am I expecting too much or do y'all think something else is the matter? Control arm bushings? Balljoint LOOKS fine since the rubber isn't damaged in any way. The car does have 180,000 miles on it. Could it be tires? Thanks for any input.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Stick one finger in the coil-pack, and make sure to firmly hold onto the car while an assistant cranks the engine over, if you post back here screaming about how I'm such an a-hole and that 70k volts hurts than we'll know your ignition system is working You can remove the coil and insert a plug and make sure that it is always touching metal while someone else cranks to look for spark, otherwise you can do damage to the coil-pack or ecu. On a side note, checking for spark isn't the first place to start, try scanning the codes first, it's in the stickies.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Control arm bushings are common to go on 4th gens. inspect them, get a big **** mo fo pry bar and check for play, cracks, etc.

andy930

I have a 1995 Maxima SE, I just purchased it and noticed that the RPM gauge doesn't work sometimes it goes really high or sometimes it is still, also the Odometer goes up about a mile for every 20 or so miles it's driven, so it is basicly broken moving very slowly. I am wondering if the instrument cluster may be bad, or if it could be a sensor or something. This is my third maxima but have never seen this before. Any suggestions would be highly appreciated.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Do you have aftermarket white face gauges?

andy930

I have the stock white guages, I am pretty sure they are stock on the 95 SE.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Yes but I just wanted to double check since the aftermarket ones can stick, rather safe than sorry. Anyways, the speedometer and tachometer don't share a sensor in common, however the do share the same ground & power supply circuits. The first step I would take is to remove the gauge cluster and double check that the two screws on the back haven't loosened up, you will see the ones I'm talking about, it's common for them to loosen up as well so I've heard. If they are ok and you have a digital multimeter I can help you further.

andy930

Thank you much for the info, I hope to be able to check this soon.

Aeiou

Hey Guys-

I've got a 1995 Max SE

I didn't get a key fob with it, but from what I've read about the packages, it sounds like it came with it from the factory (has security system, lighted mirrors, power trunk release). My sister has a 95 infiniti J30 and I got the impression that they used the same fob, so I tried programing her extra remote for my car using the instructions in the stickies. It didn't work. I got it into the mode to enter the code with the fob (hazards blinked twice) but it would not accept the code (hazards didn't blink again). Any thoughts? If this isn't the right remote, how can I make sure I get one that will work? I looks like the same fob I've seen on ebay for maximas....

FYI, I've been searching around, but couldn't find anything that really helped, so please don't jump on me about searching

Thanks

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

If it looks exactly like the maxima ones it should work, is the battery dead? If the battery is good then just get one from a max/I30

Red Lion

iTrader: (13)

got another n00bish question, though I'm not sure if it belongs here or elsewhere:

how long (tall) are 4th gen exhaust manifolds compared to 6th gen manifolds? taller? shorter? same size?

I'm trying to mount a VQ in another car and it looks like the manifolds sit lower than the oil pan, and in fact lower than the crossmember. Don't want my downpipe bottoming out!

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

The manifolds on a 4th gen are very very short, I don't know how they compare to the 6th gen, but on a 4th gen the flanges are about even with the top of the upper oil-pan, if not a little higher.

padudley

alright guys...95 max se, wont start. the codes that the ecu shows are 0903, 0807, 0402, and 0803. none of which should cause the engine not to start. i've changed the plugs twice because they had been fouled out. the first time i got new plugs it was because the gas was bad. the car had been sitting for almost two years and the gas had lost its octane rating. so i got the gas out and changed the plugs. All six cylinders and coilpacks are firing, but when i remove the plugs after trying to start the engine, the plugs are still wet. when i try to start the engine, it sounds like its really trying to start, but it "catches" like every 3 seconds. It does it so "military-like" as if its following some kind of cadence. I dont know if I still have bad gas in the tank, or is the "cadence" a timing issue, or is something else wrong. the car only throws those codes, which i thought had nothing to do with the engine running properly, please help me immediately, my jeep had an electrical fire today and this is my only other option!! thanks any help would be greatly appreciated. oh, might i add, two years ago when we parked the car, it was because the computer (ecu) had gone bad. that has sinced been replaced, but not with the exact same part number. My ecu number is: A18-B42-EL1 from a 1995 Nissan Maxima SE, the ecu that was put in this car is: A18-C85-EY1 and I think that comes out of a 1996 Maxima. Would that make any difference??

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

0402 could very well be the culprit, if the malfunction with the egrc-bpt is applying vacuum to the egr valve, therefore opening it, at idle or during starting the car will stall/not start.

The other codes are just related to the evap system because you have a fed-spec '95 se that doesn't have alot of the evap stuff that the ecu from the '96 thinks should be there.

-Miyavi-

Okay i am young guy,new to car world but im very interested in how cars work, and im into the how the car looks and sounds. I really want that nice hum and roar coming out of maxima. I bought my car and it came with an exhaust system i know nothing about and it has a hum but its not loud. So i bought a stillen intake because i heard it was a decent intake and it produces noise. I installed it and it didnt do nothing. i hear a lil roar when im flooring it but besides that what can i do to get what i want?

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Not much. A CAI will produce more growl but it's only in the engine bay. The exhaust itself is what will make the noise. I'm assuming that your car only came with a new muffler. Get an aftermarket y-pipe and it will make it louder. That and a different muffler are really all that can be done I believe.

-Miyavi-

i dont know too much about the exhaust system but i dont think its just a new muffler because the hole is about 3inches and i have no clue whats after that....can you give me a few examples of setups i can use for exhaust?

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

I'm not trying to be an @ss but there is no way I'm going to list exhaust setups for you. There are way too many setups. Do some research. There is a whole exhaust sticky to look in http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=430498. Don't post in it, just look around. It doesn't matter about the muffler outlet. I have a 4" outlet on my greddy muffler. It's still a 2.5 exhaust system. The muffler is what makes noise on an exhaust system (headers do create a little more noise and so does removing the resonator but I'm not going into that). My guess it was from some ricer that bought ebay exhaust stuff so it's just one of those sh!tty rice mufflers. Post some pics but I'm telling you to get a y pipe. For one you get a 15-20hp gain and it will make your exhaust louder.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

wow, thank's for handling that one Cdg2125, I owe you

padudley

the spark coming from my plugs is orange. i was told it should be blue. why would my spark be orange, and what does that mean? my car isnt throwing the crankshaft sensor, neither ref nor pos. so what else could cause this??

ne_maxima_fan

Hello,

I did some searching of the forum posts but didn't see this addressed. If it exists and i missed it I apologize for reposting.

I have a 99 maxima. About a month ago the car started beeping it's horn randomly after it's been parked. Several times it would beep 4 times at the same rate it would when the alarm would going off. Other times I'm pretty sure I heard it beep just once.

I took my car into a local shop for other reasons and asked them if they could look at it. They checked the alarm system codes in the computer and found nothing. They also noticed that although the alarm works fine if they press the alarm button on my remote, it will never sound when they unlock the doors with the windows down. This is the case for all four doors.

They polished the door sensors and say that they will do a little research on it, and wanted me to listen to see if it is still occurring. About 18 hours after getting my car back it started honking again, this time it was 7 honks but I didn't get to the window in time to see if the alarm lights were going off as well.

Anyway, does any of this sound familiar to anyone? My understanding is that the alarm goes through the computer to the horn and so should I get the OEM alarm system removed and have another installed?

Thanks for your time!

john8166

I am experiencing an intermittent issue with my ignition that might be related to outside temperature. I know that sounds odd but let me expain.

When I turn the key in the ignition past "on" I sometimes get no response. The electrical system is active, (i.e. radio, lights, a/c, etc.) as normal but no clicking from the starter, no turnover of the engine at all. It has been this way for over a year but turning the key back and again it would usually start no problem after 1 or 2 tries.

For a while I thought it was a loose connection in the steering column or shifter. Recently it has begun to not resond for many tries and the only consistent thing I notice is that it happens in the middle (hottest part) of the day when I am parked in direct sunlight.

I have tried shifting into different gears (automatic) and moving the steering column but nothing seems to affect it. After several minutes (10-15) and many turns of the key it eventually starts. (thus far I haven't been stranded)

I used the decoder to get codes and as a result replaced my camshaft position sensor a few weeks ago hoping maybe that was the issue but the problem remains. I have been getting the vehicle speed sensor code for a couple of years and my speedo stops working occassionally, usually a bang on the dash will get it working again. (not sure if its related)

If anyone has ever heard of anything this wacky please let me know as your help is greatly appreciate. I am trying to squeeze a few more miles and months out of my car before I get something new and certainly don't want to spend big money on repairs at this point.

Thanks,
John

1997 SE with 140K+ miles.

FDoT

ok Im not sure where to find this so if theres a link dont yell im in a hurry....what is 95 maxima bolt pattern for wheels and will wheels off 99 body style mustang fit our cars?

FDoT

ok 5x114.3 now will that let the wheels off a 99 mustang fit my car? i believe they have the same bolt pattern but I cant find out where to make sure. my buddy is sellin his 18''s and i want to make sure they will fit before i committ

padudley

i have a 95 max se with ecu# A18-B42-EL1 4706. That ecu is bad. I purchased a used ecu with ecu# A18-C85-EY1 5824. Will this ecu work for my car??

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

if the ecu matches your car. You need the same year and stick/auto ecu. Sucks if it's wrong now. You usually would post this before you purchased the ecu. If it isn't for the correct model car then you need a new one.

onenonlyquan

I was wondering where I would have to go to to get the parts I need to do a 3.5 swap. Cam adapters are the only things I need right now...from reading the procedure. Any other "custom" parts I need with the swap aside from the engine and wiring harness?

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Ummm, ignore alot of stuff in the faq, like 51psi fuel pressure for instance, and get to 15 posts so you can pm stephenmax to get the adaptors. You don't need the 3.5 wiring harness, but you will need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator if you want to convert to semi-returnless, which you should, and you will also need an rpm switch to control the VI. Become a donating member so you can get the full search feature is HIGHLY recommended before attempting the 3.5 swap, along with reading every 3.5 swap thread on the last 3-4 pages of the all-motor forum will turn you into a guru on the subject, but don't bump any of them to get to 15 posts, nismology is pretty strict as a moderator in the all motor forum, which is actually awesome........