Ok, I have a stupid problem.

The A/C-Heater blower switch on the dash only works on the "4" setting. On 1-3 I get virtually no air moving, but when I switch it to 4 I kicks up like normal. Not a huge issue right now as I'm one of those people that like to keep their cars penguin friendly inside, but I'd like to have this fixed before winter.

Does anyone know the likely cause and how much of a PITA this is going to be to fix? Am I going to have to rip out the entire dash for this?

 

erm stickies much?

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=512892

check like 1/2 way down.

 

I used to have an account and had a bunch of posts, but i lost my information. So i had to sign up again now im having some issues. But one in particular. I was ran off the road and smashed my mirror, so i bougt some new ones off ebay with the turn signal in the mirror and am trying to figure out how to get teh wire from the mirror to the turn signal so it all works?!?!?! ANY THING WILL HELP lol

 

Wire the mirror to the turn signal...not hard. Probably need to do the ground wire too. What's the problem you're having?

 

Im not sure how to get the wire from the inside of the door to the turn signal wire, is tehre an easy place to run the wire or a tap in source? I cant see taking it thru the rubber gromet in the door into the car thru the engine bay and down to the turn signal....there must be an easier way.

 

Is there a best brand for drivebelts?

 

Nissan FTW (for the win), gates is the only other belt I would ever run

 

No easy way to get around running it through the door, but.....Put your turn signal on, under the dash locate the relay that makes the clicking sound, and there ya go, you've found closer turn-signal wire's than all the way to the front light, not sure which is which though, you'll have to figure that out on your own as I really don't feel like studying a wiring diagram right now, but if you have an ohm meter pull the relay and find the one that has continuity to left or right side bulb socket.

 

This is a noob question!! How can i Post pictures in the thread?

 

where woudl i find the relays...yeah im kinda dumb with this stuff....like the fuse box or where?

 

photobucket, host them there, then they will give you a tag number to embed in the post

 

Yes, you are, most of them are located under one of two black covers in the engine bay, one is in front of the battery right by the driverside headlight, the other is next to the fender right in front of the power-steering reservoir.

 

being a new guy ot the forums, hi

alright, I used the guide here to replace my starter ( used the how to regrease guide ) and I removed all the air intake stuff - put it all back together, car starts up great but

I still have this one plug sensor thing that I couldnt figure out where it went - its in the same wiring area as the MAS is, and it looks like like a little probe than anything else - kinda like o---<[[]]}===///=== ( sorry for the acii art ) - I'll try to take a pic of it when its light

 

is it the one at the bottom of this page http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....2#post5570942?

 

hey hey its me again. I have a 96 Maxima SE w/ leather with the front power driver's seat (passenger one is manual). My friend dropped a bunch of crap between the driver's seat and the middle storage bin. How do I take out the driver's seat to clean it up? And how hard is it to take out?
thanks,
Mohammad

 

u dont have to take the seat out, just slide it all the way forward, get in the rear floorboard and stick your hand under there. i have to do that all the time when my cds fall down there or coins (i hate coins (anything really) on the floors). just seems like a lot of work to take out the seat just to clean underneath it

 

if you really want to take it out, theres two bolts in the front or the rails and two in the back, then whatever electrical connectors there are

 

so i still need to run the wires thru the door and thru the firewall into the engine bay?

 

yes i jus cleaned my engine bay and i have been cranking it up from time to time and then finally i tried to crank it up and it cranked and then i cut it off then i tried to crank it again and its doin nuttin but a clickin noise...its not the battery because the radio still works...if someone could help me out as fast as possible......thanks

 

did you cover things up? Might have fried something. Don't sit and crank the car either. If you crank too much you could fry the starter.

 

Lol, do you have any idea how many amps the starter draws compared to the radio? Same goes for headlights, you can't go by either of those things to come to the conclusion that there is enough of a charge in your battery for the starter.

 

yup, that would be it


bad news even more for me though - went to get new tires, got pointed out that I had 3 grooves left on a 5groove belt ( wtf it was supposed to have been "new" back in december when I bought the car ) - had them go change it and just got a phone call that they couldnt get the tensioner bolt loose cause it was rounded.

 

I'm not completely a newbie but I'll post here anyways:
I just bought a 97 SE and I need a smog check to complete the transfer. Well it turns out i have the P0325 code for the knock sensor which doesn't cause a CEL. I want to complete the transfer as soon as possible. If i put in the resistor (470 ohm or 470 kohm - I've searched and seen both numbers) and clear the codes, will it be able to pass? (if emissions are O.K. that is). Also, I actually have two P0325 codes, one is the actual code and the other is "pending." what does that mean?

 

i think u can still pass emissions with a KS ghost, KS is not part of the emissions system. its a ghost code for a reason

 

What should a clean MAF look like?

sounds kind of stupid I know - but there seem to be 2 sensors - a flat white plate that looks clean, and what looks like a very fine resistor which is a glossy black body on a clean shiny wires.

Is the 'resistor' meant to be black? or should it be white too?

[haven't been able to find a photo of a 'good' MAF to check]

edit - 1996 model

 

If in doubt of your MAF, gather 45$ and go to www.car-part.com. The MAF is a metal strip. So, it should be somewhat clean (reflective) looking when 'clean'. hard to describe a dirty vs clean MAF, so if in doubt replace it. Do you have a CEL (Check Engine Light)?

 

Having a small/probably big problem with my maxima. I was having problems with the rpms falling low/stalling and 2 of my hoses actually went out just a week ago or so... I replaced the hoses and it seems to be holding up/staying at the middle temp which it should. I believe the top hose that runs around the back of the engine also has the sensor (thermostat) at the side of the hose closest to the front that seems to connect to the engine itself. (i make no sense).. lol.

Basically whats happening is since I've had the car its always idled rough and now its stalling out - especially when i turn corners and hit on the gas. I just put transmission fluid in it right now (dextron 3, it seemed a bit odd but its what the people told me, lol..). I also just put 134a in the ac (doubt that has any pull on the effects). But I just took it for a test drive and its running a little worse than it was before/breaking down more often but its shifting better, lol. It died twice on me... after I added the tranny fluid it IMMEDIATLY died when shifting it into neutral. Then once going around a corner.

I'm also noticing loss of power in the power steering around corners and such. And it only seems to be getting worse but after 5 min of driving it seems to have cleared up... I'm wondering if the fact i lost 2 hoses at the same time has some bearing on why my cars acting funny. Its also making that sound (unsure what it is) .. that it makes when low on tranny fluid ... or was atleast, havent heard it since, but it sort of sounds like some kind of object on a spring bouncing when shifting gears, so... :P probably, lol.

 

why don't you just buy some MAF cleaner and give it a spray if you think it might be dirty.

 

I really hope their computers didnt screw me over on the tranny fluid. .. laugh

 

This is a really difficult one for us to diagnose not in-person, but is your check-engine light on, and or does your O/D light flash a few times right after starting the car? Also, mileage & recent maintenance would be of some help....

 

240,000 miles, fixed those 2 hoses..
Added some oil but I've been doing that (i think the oil pan on the bottom has a small dent on it that probably broke the seal around it)... atleast that was my expert analysis (which isnt worth much). I actually believe it is leaking more oil than it was before to the left of the oilpan (so towards the passengers side). Which is rather odd but I cant really figure out what exactly is giving me problems.... no check engine light is on but maybe the o/d light does blink when it starts (when i turn it to on)... and then when i start it up, also the oil light stays on then flickers off.

 

I bought a new antenna for my 97 nissan maxima but I can't get the old one out. Is there an easy way to go about this?

 

Just looked on the bottom, there's a hose that runs along the side of the drainpan it looks like that connects to another hose that sort of loops down then keeps going back (left side - passenger of the drainpan). It looks like its leaking oil from that, or atleast dripping from that point. Its a small hose, like a quarter inch? ..

 

its in the haynes manual. Basically just pulling it out, but with a little more to it. Look in there.

 

You have a trannsmission trouble code and 240k, oh geeze. For clarification it stalls in nuetral? and right after STARTING your car the O/D light blinks correct? As for your leak, it sounds like a trannsmission line, I can't say without seeing it where it is coming from, but I'm sure it is fixable, and it might be really simple, or it might not, but regardless it is probably the least of your problems........I've seen them with 300K+, they're capable of 400k, but 240k is still ALOT of miles, especially if your car is a rat......

 

unfortunately I'm not in the US - so a bit harder to get cheap MAF. Local source quoted $450 changeover.. given all the warnings in the forum about killing MAFs, I didn't want to touch it if it wasn't worthwhile.

No CEL - just cleaning up a stalling prob and looking to clean MAF as one of the possibilities.

I've also checked the MAF voltage at pin 1 (white) vs RPM, and have a fairly linear rise from 1.20V @idle to 2.25V @4000rpm (no load). Does that sound low? I thought it was supposed to be more like 4.0V @ 4000. Should it be tested under load on the road rather than just revved in neutral? Engine rev's strong and clean at full throttle - so no obvious problem with power.

 

99se throwing code 0201 and hesitating. Looks like it's time to bite the big one and replace coils. I'm just gonna do all 6 as suggested as the car only has 70K miles on it and I plan to run it until the wheels fall off. So with that info in mind, where do you recommend buying. Do the dealer's coils (courtesy nissan, etc) perform better long term than something I could get at Autozone? Does one kind offer a warranty that the other doesn't? Price is a factor, but since I plan on keeping the vehicle for a long time reliablility/warranty is probably more important than the amount of $$$ I shell out now. Help is appreciated!

 

I have a perfectly good set of used pre-99 coils that should last you until the wheels fall off, $70 shipped, Kevgoods@hotmail.com

 

I have not heard you could put pre 99 coils on a 99. I'm assuming that since the coils tend to go out on a 99 and not earlier models that they are different.

 

This has come up again when searching for coils as it has with other parts on my 99SE that they need to know if my car was made before or after 3/99. My questions are...........

1) what all was changed at 3/99?

2) is my car "before" or "after". The door plate says it was made IN 3/99 and VIN is JN1EJO1F6PT4130## (representing actual #'s)