get a new axle ASAP!!

 

Hey all.

Searched to forums and got what i believe is a bad alternator...but i thought id run this by you guys first.

No codes, no MiL. Changed KS to resistor mod (till i cna afford a new KS) and got some engine knock at what felt like FAR below the proper threshold. Changed spark plugs to new NGKs and the knocking stopped immediately. Awesome. My hunch was correct.

Drove car for rest of day, next day, and this morning with no issues. Leaving work my Brake and Batt light stay on in dash. ****. After searching...it seems its probably my alt. I'll go pull the battery terminal while running to confirm...but...anything else that could have happened during the plug swap to be producing this?

I read about an under hood fuse...which one?

TIA.

 

Never mind. Pulled the batter terminal while car was running and it died immediately. I guess its my alt.

And i guess my maxima will be sitting for a few months. perfect timing...right while im moving.

 

if you need an alt hit me up

 

Hopefully I understood the rules correctly that I'm supposed to post a question in this post. I'm new here, but not new to cars. I'm a mechanic by trade and have plenty of experience.

The car in question is a '98 GLE. It originally came in for a no-start. Turns out the starter was bad, so I replaced it. Before this the motor had been replaced by someone else, but they gave up because it wouldn't start.

I got the starter in and it cranked and cranked, and finally started. After I got it running it ran smooth, no misfires or anything like that. Let it run for 15-20 minutes, then moved it and shut it off. Went to move it again later, long crank again, then it ran good.

Long story short, the owner never came to pick it up. The car sat all winter outside, and when the snow melted I tried to start it back up. Now it won't start at all. Got it back in the shop, and here's what I've found:

I have spark at all 6 coils
I have injector pulse
Compression is good across the board
Fuel pressure is great, filter is new

There's codes stored for IAT, MAP, and crank sensors. I replaced both crank sensors and the cam sensor. It still won't start. Honestly to me it sounds like it jumped time. It doesn't crank like any other VQ I've heard, it's slower and not as "clean" I suppose is a good word. When I try and turn it over by hand it turns HARD, but it's not locked up. I can see the cam turning through the oil fill hole.

If anyone has an idea of what I've missed, I'd love some insight. I was thinking ECU but I have yet to see a failure on a nissan product. Thanks in advance for all the help, if anyone needs more details let me know.

 

Here's my quest...I have a 02 MT and my clutch is just about done, been rockin it for about 5yrs now. I have ur basic bolt ons...exhaust,Cai,high flow cat and soon to be added headers and ypipe, so what's a good clutch upgrade that I should go with..preciate any suggestions or ideas....."D"

 

Umm this is the 4th generation forum....Maxima's from 1995-1999....not 2002....go to the 5th gen

 

Ok...not coming from a VQ background...but recently bought one. Im an Audi/Porsche guy formerly (and always will be). But...just because you have pulse, doesnt mean its getting fuel. Have you confirmed the injectors are spraying fuel? Once i let my A4 sit a while (over a week)...and had to reprime the fuel pump. Just pull the fuel pump fuse and crank it till it sputters....then put the fuse back in.

Will this work on a VQ? i dont know...but its a thought.

If youve replaced the cam/crank sensors...id look into MAF?

doubt it would JUMP time....but, perhaps not rebuilt correctly by PO? But...you said you had it running well for a short time?

 

I know the motor wasn't rebuilt, it was a used engine swap. The injectors are for sure firing, the plugs get wet after a long period of cranking, so fuel is getting into the cylinders.

It's very confusing, it's got the 3 things any engine needs to run: fuel, air, spark, but there's got to be something either coming at the wrong time or not in enough quantity,

 

Hi,
Thanks for answering my question on the org.
I want to know how much would a axle cost me and should I replace both axles?
Is it a Easy DIY Job?
where online can I get a cheap NEW axle?
anything that can help would be greatly appreciated man.

 

My next thought would be to swap ECUs for a known good one to test out...but that might not be readily avail.

These things have a timing chain from what i know...so i dont think that can easily slip a tooth....but, they arent interference motors either...so i suppose it would be hard to know for sure...

What about the immobilizer? Alarm system? Just thoughts...

 

I think the immobilizer was in the 99's but i'm not really sure. Swap out the ecu, those do actually go bad. Other than that I'd say check the engine coolant temp sensor (ects) and tranny fluid level to make sure theres no prob there. those were just stabs but I thats the only I can think of

 

He has a 98. Only 99's have immobilizers. ECU's are also not know to go bad. The problem is a result of the engine swap. What year engine was put in?

 

wizard, i everytime i see your sig. by far the sickest maxima i've seen.

 

Well I'm pretty new to the forum, but unfortunately am not new to my Maxima being in disrepair. So I recently rebuilt the motor when I found out that I was losing over 30 psi of compression in all cylinders. This is after changing all the plugs, fuel filter, coil packs, and wiper blades (hey i had tried everything else. the wiper blades couldn't have hurt). When I got into the motor I checked all my tolerances and bearings, which everything checked out just fine. I got the valve seats ground because of pitting, I put in new rings, main timing chain tensioner, cam position sensor, water pump, clutch, and tie rod ends.
I put everything back together and primed it and fired it even though my battery wasnt charging. It fired right up but the idle was loping. It would go back and forth from maybe 350-1300rpm. I have no idea what it does when I drive it because it was midnight and I hadn't reattatched the exhaust.
The next day I tried to crank it and it died twice before the battery was too dead. I took the motor back apart and the plugs and everything smelled like gas. I'm assuming because my battery was too dead to stay running. When I took it apart I noticed that the timing was perfect, but the oil gap between the cam lobes was a thousandth to a few thousandth of an inch too narrow. I'm assuming it's because I had the valve seats ground, so the valves sit a little bit higher.
Now that the back story is out of the way, here are my questions. Is the few thousandths of an inch I gained on those valve shims going to make a hell of a lot of difference since it already fired and ran?
What is causing the loping idle? I made sure all the vacuum lines were connected and replaced them all when I took them off. I put in all new gaskets, so I don't think I have a leak around the upper or lower intake manifolds. The gasket surface on the block was a little marred when I put the head gasket on, but I don't think I have a leak around the head. I am not getting a CEL though. I was told I needed an idle air relearn done at the dealership, but could it be the MAF sensor or the idle air control valve itself? I was told that when you mess with the throttle body it confuses the computer and it needs the idle air relearn done. Sorry about the novel, but I could really use the help.
I know I built the motor correctly, and I have plenty of compression. If only it were a carb motor with no computer I would be golden.

 

I'm not sure what year the engine came out of, I didn't have any part of that. It was done before the I ever saw the car.

 

Oops. my fault about the immobilizer. sorry.

wizard, is there a stamp on the block that would tell you the year of the motor?

 

try running a ground wire from negative battery post to a bolt on the tranny sometimes after an engine swap the trans doesnt get a good ground off the engine

 

New to Maxs, got a STUPID question..I searched, but probably not enough.

Do 97-98 tails fit on the 95? I know that the 99 have different trunk lights..I remember seeing that somewhere. I have a 95 GLE...want to run the 97 tails..all 4 pcs.

FLAME SUIT ON!!!

 

From stickies :

http://forums.maxima.org/general-max...n-96-97-a.html

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...e-95-96-a.html

 

Well having done my CV axles once its kind of a pain. A shop will probably charge you around 800 bucks where if you do it yourself it should be around 3 to 4 hundred. Its not
difficult really but on the passenger side there are 3 bolts that screw into a hangar that hold
it in that can be a pain. Other than that its not a big deal.

 

By MAP do you mean MAF? If that isn't connected properly or is broken, I'm pretty sure that can cause starting problems. It might just need a cleaning.

Yep, pretty straight forward from what I understand.
Check out rockauto.com - lots of people order from there from the .org without problems or check out courtesyparts.com - it'll give you a ball park price for a Nissan part.

 

i have a 96 SE and recently the beep that lets you know the keys are in the ignition or the door is open has stopped working. I need to know how to fix that because since im always rushing i tend to forget my keys in the ignition sometimes. yes its stupid to leave the keys in the ignition but you try going to two jobs and school in one day.

 

Any suggestions at all?

 

Well, there are a few threads on how to do the idle relearn, searching will help you out on that. Maybe check the fuel injectors out. Also, to be extra sure there are no leaks around the engine try putting soapy water around all the seals. This probably isn't new to you, but they're just suggestions. Good luck.

 

Well I have searched the forums but wasn't really able to find anything that fit the situation. I was hoping that there was some obvious definitive answer that I had overlooked. I'm curious how the soapy water would work on a vacuum leak though since it would be sucking the soap in instead of blowing bubbles. I'll try the relearn though and recheck the injectors. Thank you for your help.

 

Oh and I don't know if this could have something to do with it but when I took the EGR tube off of the intake manifold it was clogged so I unclogged it with some brake cleaner and cleaned off the EGR temperature sensor in it. Maybe has something to do with it?

 

The beeper thing is under the plastic cover by your feet/where the fuses are. it may have become unplugged or just have died. Maybe take a peek through the electrical section in the FSM to see which circuits to check out.

 

get your axlwe form www.raxles.com the best quality,price amd you get a free swiss army knife

 

A clogged EGR tube may throw a code after a while, but it shouldn't cause any starting/running issues to the degree you seem to have.

 

Maybe instead of soapy water try using carb cleaner...

http://forums.maxima.org/7476188-post6.html

That's what i meant... I'm sure soapy water is good for something though... lol.

 

Haha well I've got plenty of that as well as brake cleaner. As soon as it thaws out tomorrow I'll put the motor back together and give it a try, as well as trying out the idle relearn.

 

ok well ive had a max for a bit but never really cam on here alot. well my question is im pulling out the orig. motor due to blown head gaskets. s i found a place that gets the motor for me from jap. with a 30day warr. for $500 with 30k to 60k. but he said i gotta change the intake mani and due to differance from jap to us models. is this true and is 500 a good price for the motor?
thanks in advance

 

Are you getting a VQ30? VQ25? VQ20?

You may very well have to transfer over many of your current parts due to emissions components, year to year differences, and plain incompatible parts. This is also true when just swapping in a regular USDM engine.

FWIW the JDM VQ30s are nothing special, why bother? And $500 is far too much for a VQ30; you can find used engines for anywhere from free (if you've got some friends with parts cars) to $300 (low mileage). The engines are dirt cheap and rather abundant.

Your local junkyard likely has a dozen A32s, price out an engine from them, look on eBay, check car-part, etc.

 

vq30 and i was thinking about doing a 3.5 swap but i dont know whats needed or has to be done. and this is a local junkyard. ive gotten the same price but they dont come with everthing(coils witch i need 2 and 1 injector) what other motor is a easy plug n play swap? what a vq25 n vq20 from? i thought the 96 max only came with a vq30.

 

For the VQ35 swap, just search. There is tons of information about it on this board alone.

If you're looking for an 'easy plug n play' swap, then get an engine for your exact year, trans type, and emissions spec. Otherwise, you're likely going to encounter different components that will need to be swapped out.

A USDM Maxima only came with a VQ30, correct. However if you're buying from the JDM markey, there are many different VQs that could potentially be used.


Cliffs: just get a used engine from a junkyard, there's no need to do anything 'special' like getting a (supposed) JDM engine. You should come in at well less than $500.

 

oh ok and i didnt look into it cuz of it beig jdm or anything just another # i found and called lol. but i get u. well i guess i have to keep looking. any info on motors in miami? anyone. wanna get on the road again.

 

Go here : http://car-part.com/

Like pmohr just said, put in your zip code and search by distance. I just did a search using zip code 33122 (not sure how close that is to u) and there were like 20 within 10 miles.

Also check ebay

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/Parts-Ac...=p4506.c0.m282

 

Hey I was wondering if you could help me out with this. I went to put in this flywheel and notice that the bolts only stick out like seven threads at most. I'm talking about from the flywheel the crankshaft. I verified the part number with Arron at Fidanza and he said it doesn't require any longer bolts. Do you have one and if so is that the way it suppose to be?

 

they stick out 7 threads after its bolted up to the crank? or 7 outta the flywheel? have u checked the stock flywheel to see how much they stic out on it?