Give it a good thud (well start from tapping lightly), mine does the same thing, the bulbs are loose on mine... Dunno if I have a good pic to show you what I'm talkin about...

 

Tried, no luck though .

 

alright ive tried just about everything, even a impact wrench, i CANT get the bolt holding the crankshaft pulley on, off!! maybe try a bigger impact wrench?

 

Ok the problem is going above 50miles it feels as if the car is an airplane sound,.. its not the exhaust seems like coming from the hood and loud.. also i am getting a egr mass flow problem with an o2 sensor Ok i already diagnosed the check engine signs and thats the explanation for the codes.. so how can i get this fixed? and are these two different problems?

 

IF YOU FIND A ANSWER FOR THIS I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW AS WELL! i HAVE THAT PROBLEM TOO.

 

Take off the starter, or the small black plate underneath the engine by the rear crank position sensor. Wedge a pry bar between the teeth, against the case. Use every muscle you have crammed under your wheel well, and turn like hell. Right before you think the breaker bar and your head is going to explode it will come loose. I broke many tools figuring that one out.

 

Get a FSM and look through the electrical section. There should be a section on the turning lights. You might have to take out your headlight/turning switch and test it out (example: flick the stick up and use a multimeter to check if it's making a circuit). That will tell you if the switch is bad.

Also, in the FSM maybe check to see if the circuit overlaps with the wipers. Check if they have a common ground. It could be a grounding problem, that would affect more than one thing at a time.

 

Check the intake. Aftermarket intakes are louder than stock. Maybe something came loose. I don't think the oxygen sensor would cause any noise. Although, the egr problem might be the culprit. There could be a leak or something might be faulty. Try diagnosing the egr problem specifically, I mean try to find what exactly is the problem. There are a few threads on how to deal with that code.

 

Okay so I have torn down the original engine and rebuilt it. It didn't run correctly, so I tore the top of the motor back down and replaced some busted seals. It ran better, but still couldn't get down the road. I broke down and bought a salvage motor with half the miles that I heard run at the salvage yard. Here is my problem, and sorry it's long winded. It's the details that matter.
The car I have is a 95 and the salvage one that got put in was a 97. It's emissions equipment was a little bit different so I put the upper intake, TB, EGR, IACV, TPS, vacuum setup, and fuel system from the old one on the new motor. I had to take off both manifolds because it wouldn't fit under the front end with the upper intake on there. I took the lower one off because my dumb *** dropped an injector insulator down one of the intake tubes FML.
I reassemble everything, making sure all the connectors had a home, and cranked it. It fired right up, revved itself to 2k or so, dropped to 1200 rpm, and dropped in 400 rpm increments till it died. all this happened within about 15 seconds.
Today I checked the injectors and had one that was going bad. I swapped out fuel rails with the injectors that were originally on the motor, checked the TPS (it was bad), and checked the rest of the engine management goodies that I could without it running and they were good. I checked the TPS that it had originally and it was worse off than the one on there so I ruled that out as the main problem. I put everything back together and it acted the same way.
I forgot to connect a body ground by the drivers side headlight, but i don't think that is the problem because all the rest of the body grounds were in place. I wasn't throwing a CEL, but I tried doing the self diagnostic anyway. The CEL light doesn't come on at all. It doesn't even come on when the key is in the on position. I am 100% that the bulb is good and everything in the circuit is good. Could my ECU or my PCM be bad, or could a vacuum leak in the intake system cause this?
I am really out of ideas here. I don't want to start throwing parts at it, because all the sensors and everything are uber expensive. Oh also I had to swap flywheels because I have a manual. I lined up the flywheel with the pin hole, so the crank position sensor shouldn't be out of whack. If anybody has any ideas I would love to hear them because I have run out of money and cant get to work.
On a side note, I installed the passenger side CV axle and it is too short by about an eighth of an inch. I found this out because the garage floor was covered in what used to be in my transmission. Is the passenger side CV axle on an automatic longer than on a manual? It's like the hanger is sitting just a hair closer to the passenger side.

 

I have an owners manual...but it doesnt say anywhere. I think I have heard its a 10amp bulb. But I dont feel like ordering one off the internet. Would it be possible to use an led? Im good with soldering but I dont understand resistors and led's. If anyone knows what led and resister I would need than I would greatly appreciate it!

 

Well its not an aftermarket intake its factory.. im not really good under the hood of a car.. if i knew what the problem was i would get it fixed... but these damn mechanics always want money up front to just look at it and charge up the AS* so im lost on this.

 

Ok folks i need some serious help here. my 96 max had a shot water pump and due to the fact that i have a work vehicle i decided to leave it be until i had the time to replace it. the car sat at my job for a little over a year until i finally drove it home 3 weeks ago. it ran perfectly. since i was going to be putting in some work i also decided to do some other mods at the same time like headers, under drive crank pulley and a high flow cat. the car already had an intake and catback exhaust on it. install went well and the car idles perfect but i cant for the life of me get it out of safe mode. i have checked cel codes that were thrown which were an o2 sensor and the mass air flow and have replaced both. i have checked and rechecked over and over again for a possible vacuum leak. i even drained the gas out in case the fuel was bad from sitting for so long. ever since i replaced the mass air and o2 sensors have had no codes thrown and i have been checking with a obdII code reader. im at a loss here and any suggestions would be a great help.

 

Take the battery out for a day or so. It will reset the ECU and should take you out of limp mode. I can't remember how long it has to stay unhooked for it to reset though, so a day or 2 should do the trick.

 

i already disconnected the battery for a couple of days after i did the mass air and the o2 sensors. wouldn't resetting the ecu manually do the same thing anyways?

 

Yup, use a small screwdriver and reset the ECU. Same end results, but no waiting time.

 

Lately when I try start the car, It takes many tries(brand new battery). It takes from 5-50 turns of the key before it will start no problem. Usually at first nothing happens, then I turn 3-4x when all I hear is a single click and then a few turns of clicks and it will start. After searching I am confused weather it is the starter, starter switch, neutral safety switch or something else.

 

yeah that's what i thought... so im back to square one. anyone have any other ideas?

 

Have you double checked that the ecu isn't in read mode? Double check the how-to on reading the ecu codes manually. Also, try manually resetting the ecu - without using the scanner.

 

Have you fixed the egr problem? Could be a leak in the system and when you're going fast it's just more obvious.

 

That's weird that it takes so long for it to start. This is just speculation but check some of this stuff out. The first thing I would check is the battery voltage, I know it's new but that could indicate charging problems or just a dud battery). Check the wires running to the starter. They could be really corroded or broken. Check the starter connections, they could be loose or corroded also. Maybe pull the starter and have it tested at the local parts store.

The best thing to do is look up the specific issue (like neutral safety switch), see if it matches your problems and test it out. You can do all of the research you want, but you'll be stuck until you actually go out and check/test things.

Best of luck!

 

i have checked the ecu with the scanner and manually and both aren't telling me anything other than code 55. the ecu isn't in read mode... i'm positive of that.

 

Hi, I just bought a 95 maxima. I have an annoying ticking in the engine at idle, about 3 ticks a second and gets faster when i rev it. I did an engine flush and put synthetic oil in and I'm using additives to clean the fuel system. Great power and fuel economy but still ticking? I noticed that the radiator is all gummed up with black goo on the bottom passenger side, does this mean the engine blew and was replaced? My first ever reply I apologize if I'm not following proper protocol. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

I have a question. The display doesn't work for my bose stereo. I checked how to fix it in the forums and it says: Repair/replace surface mount resistor at location R510 (resistor value of 470 ohms) Where in the world can I find one of these resistors and does it take any special skill to remove and replace them? Thanks.

 

Is there a way to make the transmission shift later from 2nd to 3rd?

I've noticed that if I come close to stopping, around 5 mph, and say, make a turn onto a street, and begin to accelerate, the car is still in 3rd gear.

Unless I come to a near complete stop, it will not shift out of 3rd.

Is this normal? How do I get it to upshift later(2nd - 3rd), and downshift properly on low speed?

 

My wife's max did the same thing and I replaced the starter. It turned out to only be the starter solenoid, which was alot cheaper than a new starter.

When you try to start it and it doesn't start. Get out, pop the hood and tap on the starter solenoid with a ratchet, screwdriver, ect. It is a small cylinder on top of the starter that has wires running to it.

 

good post thanks

 

Hi guys.. I joined to ask this question but..i guess i cant make a thread untill 15 posts..which is kind of strange.

Anyways...

I'm thinking of buying my first Nissan Maxima. Its a 1997 with 150,000kms. The seller says it in great condition, and comes with 350z rims. The price is 3550 not cert/etested or 3700 with cert/etested.

He installed a new muffler, starter and ignition coils replaced a while ago.

The only problems i see are the o2 sensor is triggering the check engine light, hood shocks are shot and that's about it..

Please advise of anything else i should look at.

Thanks,

Chris

 

Not sure if I am following protocol correctly, but here is my problem:

1998 Maxima 3.5 liter engine. I check all fluids the first of every month. Today, April 11, the oil dipstick was dry and, before chedking the oil, the engine made a strange sound of on startup.

There are no visible oil leaks, there is no smoke coming out of the tail pipe, yet in 11 days and maybe 100 miles the oil level went from normal to one quart down.

Any ideas?

Vic

 

some 3.5L's have that famous oil consumption issue.Complete engine overhaul,new engine or go back to the less powerful but proven to be trustworthy 3.0L that was in it to begin with is your best bet.Lots of threads on this issue if you use search.

 

I just have a simple question. Can you run those Venom 400 Control Modules with stock ECU? Ive been looking into it.

 

That's how this forum works. It prevents noobs from making stupid posts.

Blown hood struts are super common. Oxygen sensors can be pricey, but they're easy to replace. You should look in the how-to section, there's instructions there. Also, searching for what to look for for buying a new car will yield good results. What brand of muffler is it? Performance, budget or OEM?

If I were to go buy a new car the things I'd look for:
-signs of good maintenance (oil, coolant, power steering fluid, trans fluid)
-rust (everywhere, underneath, etc)

Obviously do a test drive. Good luck though. I've had a super good experience with my car (it's my first) and I'll definitely get another.

 

+1 on 95Franklins post.

Take the car to your local parts store (autozone, advance, ect.) and have them read the codes to make sure that the O2 is the only thing that is triggering the CEL. Its a free service.

Also while your test driving the car listen and feel for anything that feels or sounds weird. (popping, tapping, wobbling, shaking, vibrating...ect.)

Can't really think of anything else...if you need a second opinion take it to a mechanic and have them check it over to see if its mechanically sound. Most only charge a small service fee. If anything at all

 

hey there orgers quick question: will a 95-96 fender fit a 97-99 max?

thanks guys

 

My wife calls me from the side of the road and tells me she smells burning rubber the car shakes, and she has lost power. I removed the Passanger tire and the nuts were HOT, it did smell like burning rubber, but found no lines or hoses broken. The Check Engine light is on and the code calls for the EGR and knock senser. I have replaced the EGR and cleard the codes, the light comes on and says EGR ... What the heck, could this cause the loss of power and the smell? Guys I need some serious help.

 

Thank you for the suggestion.
The car is in great shape. The wheel feels a little out of alignment, i guess due to it being 350zx rims..
i took it to a mechanic..he says it looks good.. but he didnt really check it over or even drove it..that was i think a waste of time lol

 

Thanks for the reply, oxygen sensor seems expansive..maybe thats why the seller didnt want to replace it...its a muffler from canadian tire he said..performance ..

thanks again for the help guys..

 

I replaced the Knock Sensor cleared the codes drove it and the EGR code came up again. I have replaced it recently. What else could it be?

 

Try Radio Shack (or whatever it's called now) for a resistor. Some soldering skills may be required. It's not super difficult so don't fret, it's just kinda time consuming if you've never done it before.

The knock sensor code probably only came up because of the egr. Sometimes it comes up when other codes come up.

Do you mean you replaced the egr recently? The egr is really the Exhaust Gas Recirculation SYSTEM. There may be a vacuum leak or a busted part somewhere or your egr tube might be clogged.

If the lug nuts were hot, like really hot, it has to be something in that area causing problems. I mean the egr system isn't going to make your wheels smell funny, etc. Check your brakes. Does the car pull to one side when you apply them? You might have a seized caliper or a pad/rotor might be bad. Did she have the emergency brake on? If something is stopping the wheels from spinning freely, like the brake system, that would cause a burning rubber smell.

Good luck.

 

~Removed~

 

I needed this info now i got on my lonely world To Maxima.org lol Jk but glad to be part of this community