Well that doesnt sound too god awful bad...I used to live in Illinois, and I dont really remember if the DMV was real particular about the process of title reassignment. Im just wondering is the title in his name? I know when i purchased my max from ohio, he did not have the title in his name (it was still in the previous owners name), so he signed the title and the dmv put it in his name and then signed the title over to me and once im done getting it road worthy I will apply for a Pa. title.
Just go over it like you would any other vehicle like somebody mentioned before, and you should be fine. What exactly did you see on the strut tower brace?

 

I just got the spyder 1 piece headlights for my 96 and i can't figure out how to get the stock headlight assembly out and disconnected can anyone help?

 

Well see the problem is that the dealer assignment never happened. The guy whose name is on the back pulled out and decided not to buy the car...after he had signed everything.

When you say you can help me get a title, what do you mean? I do appreciate any help, assuming I can't get it registered with the current title.

Um, the fact that a strut tower brace was there at all was really what concerned me. All those things I mentioned smack of an abusive former owner, though like I said as long as the car keeps driving I'm happy.

Thanks for the feedback, bro-hams, this is making me feel a lot better about the situation. I can now turn my mind back to fixing things that's broke. How hard is replacing the hood support cylinders? I don't know if they're both dead but they mostly show up in pairs on eBay. I just assume that for something that has to provide the force to hold up the entire hood with such a small lever arm has to be pretty hard to compress. Is it doable by hand?

 

I know a completely legal method of getting a title for a car in that situation. PM me if you want more info, just make sure there is no Lien on the titlereplace them in pairs because otherwise one will blow out then the other then the other repeat until you replace them as a pair. there is alot of weight that it is supporting, but not so much that you can't compress them free hand.

 

oh! my bad, I didnt catch the whole "strut tower brace" statement. Yea i guess that could be a sign of an abusive owner, or they put it on there for looks!! I wouldnt be too concerned about it. Alot of people will put them on just to take away that front end body roll and or because they think it looks cool! I would say as long as it looks solid frame wise, body and so on ...you should be fine.

I will be purchasing some hood supports also as mine are shot. I ended up taking mine completely off and set the hood on top of the vehicle for now until i drop the newer motor in. Let me know if you buy off of ebay as I was looking at going that route also.

 

Any ideas?

 

I have an injector going bad, and has been for a time. Checked the ohms and it was 44. The book says 11 ohms.

It looks like someone has tried to unscrew those 2 screws on top of the injector(front bank, middle cyl) and one is striping.
I can get a good injector(ohms wise) from the pick n pull(a 95,96,and 97 year model)

Is their a 'gotcha' moment here or just a plug n play?

 

I know there are a lot of posts and questions regarding the 4th gen's running rough for various reasons...but I would like isolate the problem on mine (which is a 1995, automatic transmission) before I go blow several hundred dollars on new ignition coils, as I believe this is the problem. SO. Here is a list of things I have done, as close to chronological order as I can remember, to help someone in answering my question before I go blow hundreds on new coils. (Just want to be sure, ya know??)

1) Changed oil and spark plugs, found carbon fouling on a couple plugs
2) Emptied 87 octane from tank, filled with 91
3) Took it to AAMCO, had them clean the throttle body, fuel rail, etc. Car ran fine for 2 months until about 5 days ago.
4) Took it to have a diagnostic. Got the P1320 code. Nothing else, no sensors damaged or malfunctioning. Mechanic was unable to pinpoint which coils were supposedly faulty. (Did this the day after having the fuel system cleaned)
5) When the engine started acting up funky several days ago I checked my new NGK-5G plugs to find them ALL horribly fouled with carbon. Cleaned them and got a negligible (sp?) decrease in hesitation/rough running.

I went through my first basic instincts to deal with the problem by replacing the fuel filter, and checking the air filter, fluids, etc.

I have experimented with different cleaning methods from SeaFoam to different octane boosters with little or no gain in performance. I have tried changing gas brands and octanes multiple times. I *HAVE* noticed a correlation in the "roughness." It happens between 1600-2000 RPMs and about 800-900 RPMs. Doesn't matter if I'm parked or in any gear. However when in gear the vibrations are much worse. While driving the car is fine except when it hits 4th or 5th gear at less than 55-60 MPH, then it hesitates and vibrates. Whenever at highway speed if I don't gun the engine hard enough it hesitates and vibrates when trying to accelerate before downshifting.

Thoughts? Input? Solutions?

Thanks,
-Chris

 

Nothing? No one? :[

 

I'm gonna replace the front bank, middle cyl fuel injector. I've pulled 2 from pick n pull (one from a 160k car(95), another 247k car(96)).

I've read to use vasoline on the new o-rings to seat the injector, without messing the o-rings up. Is this true?

Has anyone installed injectors on these cars with complete success?

Is brake cleaner ok to use to clean off the injectors and the screen?

 

unplug one coil at a time until you find the one that doesn't affect how the engine runs, then you know its the culprit. You can then check it with an ohmmeter. Its possible pulling the boot off, cleaning the coil output contact and replacing boot and spring with new may fix it. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...1211465k949142

 

PLEASE HELP

I got a 95 maxima and im having trouble find some bad *** 17" rims that fit the car.

Im budget is 400 not including shipping for a set of 4.

please help

 

need help i got a check engine light on i took it to autozone and they gave me 2 codes p0130 it says air fuel ratio sensor 1 bank 1 circuit probable cause open or short circuit condition,poor electrical connection,faulty af 1 bank 1 sensor. the second code is p1105 it says pressure switch solenoid valve so can anyone help me please thanks!!!!!

 

1. you need to use a petroleum product (oil or vaseline, not KY) to lube the o'rings so they don't tear on the way in.
2. not really a good idea to use brake cleaner, I wouldn't use anything besides some gasoline and a toothbrush
Look local, not that hard to do
P0130 means a front o2 by the firewall
P1105 means Map sensor is bad, I think

 

I’m new to cars and new to Nissan. I recently bought a 97 I30 and later realized that when I hit highway speeds I leak oil. The dealership near my office apparently couldn’t pin it down (or they were trying to clean this sucker out) because they quoted me about $4k to change the front and rear oil seals, the valve cover gaskets, the oil pan gaskets and the timing chain cover gaskets. I only paid $2790 for the car. I had a second opinion from another independent mechanic and he said the oil pan gasket looked like the culprit. He was still a little out of my budget, so I decided it was time I learned something about cars. I bout my first tool set the day after thanksgiving and went to work.

The leak hits the ground between the oil filter and the oil pressure switch. I put some uv dye in the oil and followed it up, but the highest I can see oil is on the bolt on the back left corner of the upper oil pan (standing in front of the car). It took me 2 days but I finally changed the gasket on the oil pan making sure to put enough silicon on that particular corner. I was exited to have put everything together again with no extra bolts, but it leaked the same amount and in the same exact spot. I had a pessimistic feeling that it was coming from the timing chain cover gasket, so in desperation I started down through the intake manifold collector. When I got the right bank valve cover gasket off, I noticed that there was a lot of grime behind it and I thought it was burnt oil, so I changed the gaskets on the valve covers and put her back together. I was even more excited when the car started and ran perfectly after I did all that, but to my horror it leaked the same amount and in the same place.

Now I am leaning toward the timing chain cover, but I need advice. What are the odds that the leak is in the timing chain cover gaskets? Has anyone ever had to do this before? If I do have to do it, what is the easiest/best way? My manual says I have to remove the oil pans, and the intake manifold and the power steering pump, but I can’t understand that stuff is in the way. If I come in from the bottom then I would have to remove the pans, but what if I come from the top? Can I remove the passenger side engine mounting and the hoses and all that jazz or do I have to remove the collecter, the intake manifold and the power steering pump and the EGR guide tube like the manual says? Would it be easier/worth it to remove the engine to find the leak? Hate to sound lazy, but I have already spent 6 days on the holiday breaks working on the leak. Good news is I know the underside of my I30 like the back of my eyelids, but the bad news is I still leak!!!!

Please help if you can.

Thanks, Dan

 

It is fairly cold here: about 25 in the evening. Last night, I drove my car from work to a store, about 4 blocks away. Everything was fine. Came back 30 min later, and car had no power- not even courtesy light. Had it towed home. Fuses: OK, Battery checks at 12 amps. Starter: new about 3K miles ago. Also attached a new 4 gauge ground from the neg. battery terminal to the starter housing to improve starting (which works). Verified that all cables are connected.

Now, this morning, jumped it with another car. It started fine. But when I took off the jumper cables, immediately died. Started again and let it warm up, but it died when I took off the cables. Then I turned the good car off and the Maxima stayed running just fine. I suspect a bad ground, but where do I start? Thanks!

 

I won't profess to know if you absolutely have to drain both plugs on the block to change the thermostat, but I wouldn't skip it since it is pretty easy. Honestly the quickest way in my experience is to:

1- Jack up the car behind both front tires
2- set a jack stand under the transmission right where it meets the upper oil pan. Just let it down a little so it's supporting a load but not the whole car.
3- remove the center member.
4- 22mm socket for the left bank plug and 17mm on the right

The whole thing only took me like 30 minutes plus the time to drain.

 

I'd first check to make sure that the battery cables are connected to the battery tightly

 

Hi folks. Searched fo this knd of thing alot but no luck, maybe this is a specific thing So here goes..
this happened yesterday, wife's car. It's time so I change the motor oil. The last time it got changed (always at 3k miles), wifey took it to the Firestone boys and man, did they tighten the snot outta the oil drain bolt and the filter; both really ridiculously hard to get out.
I could't bufge the filter by hand, then with a filter wrench, then a crescent wrench and finally harangued the filter loose with a monkey wrench (crunched it a smidge getting it out). The drain bolt came out a little more nicely. Oil drain, replaced, replace filter, closed it all up, the usual blah.

But Now, the battery light is on. great. I figure it's a reset thing, maybe? so I disconnect the negative from the battery and let it sit for a few hours. reconnect, same thing goes on.
I know the alternator is right next to the whole oil assembly. What could I have done, yanking around, to make the alternator stop working?

I see the belt still attached nicely, spins the pulley, no obvious loose wires.
What could I have done?

Thanks a million, BTW; you guys rock.

 

UPDATE:

Replaced the bad injector with one out of a 95 max, with 160k miles.

It's the faded red type, the one in my car is the red type.

I pulled the fuel pump fuse, turned engine on, let it die, then turned it over a few times to clear the fuel lines. Welp, that didn't help, as when I popped the injector out, I got sprayed with fuel.

Anyways, with vaseline on the new o-rings, it went in fairly easy. I pressed the injector in almost all the way with my fingers. Then turned the injector back and forth to make sure the rings were seated. Then with maybe a hair to go to seat, I put the cap back on, and tightened them down evenly.

Good to go. Smooth idle, no slight jerking taking off, using no peddle.
I'm not sure about spray patterns and how that effects performance. Any injector experts here, let me know please.

Then I completed the engine grounding, by grounding the negative terminal to the drivers side strut tower, with a bolt and nut, using 8 gauge wire(Grounded engine at 3 other points as well). Now the car drives even better. Feels stronger on the low end because it takes even less peddle to get going.

 

Hey Guys,

Just wondering if I can get some help. I bought my Maxima in June with around 88k on it. The previous owner claims he used Castrol Syntec oil and changed around every 3k-4k miles. I just used the search tool you guys have here and I see that an overwhelming number of you guys here frown up upon Castrol syntec as well as the guys from the OilGuy website.

My Question is this:

I want to switchc over to Mobil 10w30 becuase it seems like the best choice at this point. How is Mobil 1 Different from Castrol Syntec? Is it thinner, meaning it will leak?

Also, I would Like to do a drain and refill on the ATF since I have off from school. If I just unscrew the plug and drain out the ATF, What type of fluid do you suggest i refill with?

I know I will most likey drain out like 4 quarts, so could I refill with lets say a synthetic ATF?

Any links, any advice would be greatly aprreciated!

-

 

I Just Got a 99 maxima SE Auto. I Know automatics are not ideal but o well. Where do i start with Performance parts?????? Help

 

Use a multimeter to verify that your battery is OK, and that is receiving charge while running. If not, go through a diagnosis to see if there is a drain or perhaps bad alternator. It may be worth it to disconnect the alternator plug and plug it back it. Could have worked loose and takes 30 seconds.

 

start with making sure all maintenance is up to date.
Then the call is youtr, but I'd start with brakes.

 

Seeing as this is a Maxima enthusiast forum, I thought this would be the best place to ask my questions, these questions are more specifically for the 98/99 SE's, but all other answers are surely welcome.

Is the Maxima good for a new/learning driver? (I already know that it feels heavy, especially around corners)

Is it expensive to maintain? (Will I be having to shell out money month after month for a new problem arising, are parts expensive? (stock parts that is..))

How's the size of the car? (Can it fit in between most cars in parking lots, do I need a lot of space to clear cars or curbs, do you have to be very tall to get a good view of all your blind spots, etc.)

And...

Most importantly, how does it drive?

Any contributions would be greatly appreciated.

 

I was a new driver in June of this year. I can say that this is a great car. It has been very reliable and i feel i got the best bang for my buck.

As far as blind spots, I have none and I am just under 6 feet tall. The car has good power especially considerring the era it was made. This car is an icon along with the 3rd Gen Maxima!

It also handles the snow very well. A lot of people get a civic or accord as a first car and I can say that this has wasy more power than those two stock.

 

On another note*

When I start my car up in the morning (especially if the night before was cold) the Idle goes up then stalls. The only way I can keep it from stalling is to give it a little gas after i turn the key. Then it does not stall.

Is this a bad fuel filter? Is it bad to give a little acceleration just after starting the car? any dmamage being done?

 

I have been using Mobil 1 synthetic for years and have had no problems. I would also recommend using Valvoline synthetic. You might want to consider using a high mileage oil also (cheaper).
Why are you changing out the trans fluid? I would not recommend doing this! I have made that mistake only once and I will never do it again! I changed out the fluid on my wifes 04 stratus with about 90K on it, and that day it started slipping between 1st and 2nd. A week later we traded the car in after we adjusted the shift points so the dealer would not notice! So your looking at a 50/50 chance of developing some problems if you decide to drain and fill the trans! I would just maintain the proper operating level and dont mess with anything that is not broken!

 

need help i got a check engine light on i took it to autozone and they gave me 2 codes p0130 it says air fuel ratio sensor 1 bank 1 circuit probable cause open or short circuit condition,poor electrical connection,faulty af 1 bank 1 sensor. the second code is p1105 it says pressure switch solenoid valve so can anyone help me please thanks!!!!!

 

I have recently gained access to a 2000 maxima and am allowed to pull any and all parts from it as long as it still runs when I'm done. I want to do an 00vi swap onto my '97 and am wondering if the 4th gen manifold will fit and work on the 5th gen. Are there any complications that would make this an impossible swap?

 

There is a terrible squeak that sounds like it's coming from the front right suspension. I have no idea what it could be. It happens when I go over bumps at low speeds. City streets are the most embarrassing thing to drive over - my face flushes to a bright crimson with each undulation of hearty and untamed Chicago streets.

I realize this could be anything, but are there any common "squeak points" on the front suspension of 4th-gen Maximas?

I also notice that, if I push up, with my foot, on the exhaust on the passenger side right at the B-pillar, it moves. It's not hanging loose and it doesn't flop around, but it moves. Doesn't squeak when I push it. Could that be the squeak at speed?

Thanks in advance for advice.

 

bad bushings/ball joint

 

sway bar links.

 

I have a 95 gle, and have the codes 0201 and 0608. They are ignition signal circuit and misfire cylinder 1. Im assuming I have an issue with the coil, plug wire, or plug at cylinder 1.

My question is which cylinder is number 1? and what should I check first?

Sorry for the noobness, but this is the noob thread.

 

i just did the q45 brake upgrade.. installed the calipers, rotors, pads etc.. i've done all the modification work.. i bled the system regularly and i did the whole gravity bleeding.. in the end i have about 3% of the pedal pressure i had before.. everything worked perfectly before i did this.

PLEASE HELP!

 

INSTALLING HID'S IN 1999 MAXIMA!!!

I hear that the reflector shield in front of the bulb might mess up the 55w HID bulbs??? Does this mean it has to be removed? If so, then would the bulb melt the front of my headlights? im soo noob someone please help me out though!!

 

So I discovered the source, if not the cause, of my squeak, and it's not as bad as I feared it could be: it's coming from, like, inside the strut tower. Here's a picture (click for bigger version):


I also took a video of it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0SQprYI_M9Y

Any ideas? Thanks in advance..

 

upper strut mount bushing

 

cylinder one is the passenger back corner

did you put the calipers on with the bleeder screws facing up?

 

I was under the impression I had to remove the exhaust manifold. I have not looked myself though. Thank you very much for your input, I will investigate tomorrow.