Couldn't find this in the stickies.....what's the difference between a 96 cali spec y pipe and a fed spec y pipe? Thanks

 

Nothing, only '99's have a different y-pipe/manifold combo depending on cali/fed spec.

 

Ok, im setting up my car audio equipment next month (4th Gen). I'm using 0 awg to power the amp. I'm looking to replace the positive and negative terminals with the sting terminals....

Can I just snipp off the oem terminals to the positive/negative wires and screw them into the new terminals and the red part (dont know what it is) or is is more complicated? im assuming the oem wires are 4 awg, so if I get a terminal with those connections plus the 0 gauge is that fine?

I searched the forums but couldn't find a direct answer, srry

 

I am looking to buy a front strut tower bar and a rear sway bar for my max

i'm just wondering if it's ok to buy these parts on ebay as opposed to a site like cattmanperformance? The strut bars on ebay are alot cheaper than on the site, but the sway bar is more expensive. So are the more expensive parts going to perform significantly better? anyone know of any other good sites to buy these parts?

ive got another question, im fixing up some body rust on the car and i need to buy some spray paint. none of the stores around seem to carry the colour i need and paintscratch.com doesnt ship spray cans to Canada. Any ideas where else i can buy it?

thanks

 

You lucky little son of a *****, I ****ing hate you..........

here ya go: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....96+evap+dealer

Yeah, I still hate your guts, but welcome to the .org, I replaced all those things out of my own pocket awhile back on my '96 infiniti and could have saved a ton.......

 

Hey. I have two questions.
1st I am trying to replace my knock sensor. I got the wrench on the nut (FINALLY) but I still can't get the nut loose. Usually, I would hit the wrench with something to loosen it, but it is such a small space that I can't really fir anything more in there. I sprayed some lubricant on the bolt, but it didn't seem to do anything. Any ideas?

The other question is related to the intake. I just installed a CAI And everything seems to be fine except for one thing. There was on hose that we couldn't figure out. It comes from the transmission and I'm not sure if it was connected to the intake before or not. There is also another hole in the intake that I guess might be where it goes, but it isn't really the right size (might be able to make it work, but it would be tricky) and the hose isn't near long enough to reach it (hole is on the other side and on the bottom of the intake). For now we sealed the hole with some rubber, duck tape and one of those metal bands. Any ideas?

Here is a picture of the hose in question:

 

you didnt know about the recall obviously....ah DAMN !

Thanks alot for the link.............. got to luv folks

 

You might try a jack handle for leverage. But, you really should have taken the manifold off in order to torque it down to proper specification. this is especially important considering the type of sensor it is, what type of feedback it uses for signal etc.

It's a breather hose, perfectly normal for it NOT to be connected to anything. Also FYI, it's duct tape

 

OH, Duh.... I know that..... silly me

I really don't want to take of the manifold because that would just be a huge pain and I don't want to deal with that. The guy in the how-to's was able to do it without taking it off.

Any ideas what that extra hole on the intake is for?

 

Read my reply thoroughly next time please.

 

I got those, I was just wondering what the extra hole in the intake was form, then, since the hose isn't supposed to go in there. With all due respect, maybe you should have read my question in reply a little better, too. I would think something is supposed to go in that hole, as you wouldn't want just a big gaping hole in your intake as it would allow junk to get into your engine.

You also said that it would be better if I took off the manifold to get to the knock sensor, which would be a ton of work and, as I understand, require new gaskets for them as well, which is why I said that.

 

You got me there. I thought you were asking about the breather hose, not the missing material from your actual intake ducting. But, if that's all you have, wrap it in duct or electrical tape until you can seal it w/ some type of RTV/epoxy.

As for the knock sensor. Try and use a floor jack handle in order to get the needed leverage. This is what I have done in the past when I did not remove my manifold.

 

which is better to get for my first suspension mod: a rear sway bar or springs?
they are both around the same price range right?

also how difficult is the it to install lowering springs?

 

Well to get lowering springs you should get performance struts...that will add to the cost..Get a front strut tower bar from Ebay and then get a rear sway bar....

 

my dad installed monroe struts a couple months ago, but im guessing those would not work well with lowering springs

ill probably just get the bars

 

stock replacement struts cant take the pressure of lowering springs...they will blow within a short time....Save up and do the springs and struts at the same time....also makes it easier...

 

Has anyone successfully swapped out a manual AC to a digital AC unit?

I also forgot to mention:
I have successfully swapped the main wiring harness (located directly under dash) from a donor I30 to my '96SE, allowing me to plug in the auto-climate control unit. All fan modes work, auto-unit changes and controls settings, Installed:
Cabin temp sensor, in the auto climate control panel
A/C temp sensor, in the evaporator box
Sunload sensor in the dash vent
Aspirator
Black box directly under the stereo (from i30) / Manual ac have only 2 plugs that connect to the box, Auto units have a total of 5 plugs that run to the box)
Although all the functions work including heat, no cold air is coming out.

Also, I've taken it to the shop for discharge & recharge. Other than a bad compressor, or maybe an expansion valve replacement, ect....
Could someone who has actually completed the swap or similar give me suggestions in what I may be missing to make this work.

 

What do you guys recommend is a better tailight mod to do

the red/clears such as in this write up http://www.vqpower.com/v2/readarticle.php?article_id=46
i would also tint the lights with nightshades if I did that mod

or the DTM mod? http://www.vqpower.com/v2/readarticle.php?article_id=61

which one is easier to do?

also, how come the DTM does not require new reflectors to be put in using flourecent light cover like in the red/clear mod? wouldnt the light not reflect properly without it

and I would have to buy new amber bulbs for both mods right?

 

Please help, my maxima is getting a 08 04 ECU ERROR CODE which is "Automatic Transmission Control Unit Signal to ECU". Has anyone experienced this or know what to do, thanks!

 

what would cause my rpms to drop below 500 and make my max vibrate while coming to a stop. The vibration is from the low rpms not the brakes. thanks.

 

I don't think anyone has done this swap on here that I know of.

 

Clean your IACV, clean TB see what happens. After adjust TPS if needed.

 

And make sure your tranny fluid is fresh.

 

Not sure what you're talking about with reflectors. You can keep the stock reflector in the outer tail or take it out. If you're talking about the lens itself, it's not a reflective lens. The clear mod is just ceiling light lens. It's not special in any way. The DTM is painted so they used nothing under the plastic. It will effect how the light is spread but not much. It's backup lights anyway. Either way, they are the same mod. You're either doing red clear and tinting them or doing the full DTM mod. Both are changing the orange lens to clear and painting/tinting the light. It's the same work really. It's your car do what you want. Don't need to have everyone on here tell you what to do. You can see what the mod looks like mostly in those threads anyways. Choose what you like to fit your car. It depends on the color of your car to smoke them IMO.

 

bars will not do anything if your car is not lowered. You won't notice a difference at all really. Once the car is lowered they make a difference. Save for struts/springs if you want or coilovers.

 

i need to know how to get my power wire coming from the battery to the amp through the firewall in my 99 max.

 

I ran mine through the wheel well. Behind the intake is a hole, put it through there. It comes into your wheel well. Then use a coat hanger or something to run it through the rubber seal into the cabin. I didnt have to seal mine, its tight enough. It comes through behind the fuse box above your left foot. Run it where ever needed, under the carpet, etc...I ran mine under the dash, under the passenger carpet and cut a small X under the passenger seat to pull it through. My amp is under the pass seat.

 

Are you sure? I read about alot of people saying that the rear sway bar made a huge difference in the handling with a stock suspension. The front strut bar will probably not make a big difference but the rear sway bar should help alot.

I dont think theres a point in buying new struts when i just got perfectly good ones put in not long ago

 

I agree here. FROM PERSONAL EXPERIENCE, I think that the RSB makes a BIG impact in body roll reduction if you are on stock suspension, but with the increased spring rates and lowered center of gravity (roll center, really), the impact of an RSB on a car with aftermarket suspension will not be as pronounced.

 

can i post pics of my car in here?

 

Is there a write-up anywhere on how to install a SAFC/VAFC on a 4th gen maxima? I've searched but all I've found is how to install a SAFC II on a 5th gen. I'm not going to do the install myself, but I want a how-to to give the dyno shop installing it to cut down on the labor costs.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

No. There is a section for users rides.

 

would it be easier to do it reverse of what u said?

 

From the stickies:
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...2&postcount=11

 

From the stickies:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=42950

 

well i stand corrected by phenry with the RSB. No there is no need to buy new struts really, but if you are going to lower the car you need to. The stock struts will not last long with lowering springs. That was already said.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=519659

 

this seems kinda cheap but is it worth it?


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-96...spagenameZWDVW

 

Ugggh, NO, only the stillin lip on a 97+ bumper is acceptable here on the .org, no altezzas either.

Bumping to the 1st page/

 

how do the Tein H-Techs ride in comparison to stock?