NOOBIES: "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread. Read FIRST post BEFORE posting!
#601
Originally Posted by headhunt3r
I know this could be considered as a silly question...
But I'm quite annoyed at the fact that my wipers always leave a trail of water after a wipe. They were just recently replaced (Bosch) and the car was cleaned very recently... is there anything I can do about this? Maybe there's a particular brand of wipers....? I can't come up with any other factors besides cleaniness and brand of wipers.
I already use Rain-X on my windshield, and even on all the other glass around the car.
But I'm quite annoyed at the fact that my wipers always leave a trail of water after a wipe. They were just recently replaced (Bosch) and the car was cleaned very recently... is there anything I can do about this? Maybe there's a particular brand of wipers....? I can't come up with any other factors besides cleaniness and brand of wipers.
I already use Rain-X on my windshield, and even on all the other glass around the car.
#602
1998 Starter Issue
1998 SE with 130,000 miles has been diagnosed with a bad starter. Regardless if I attempt this myself or have a technician do it, should a Nissan part be used or can I go with an aftermarket part. Thanks!!
#604
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (29)
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,572
From: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
Originally Posted by abc_123
1998 SE with 130,000 miles has been diagnosed with a bad starter. Regardless if I attempt this myself or have a technician do it, should a Nissan part be used or can I go with an aftermarket part. Thanks!!
If your attempting it yourself, it's not that bad at all, just make sure that you disconnect the battery first and foremost, then remove intake, disconnect the connectors on the starter (one is bolted) and use a 1/2" drive 14mm and 17mm on the two bolts.
#605
Engine miss at idle
I have a 97 maxima with 125,000 miles. In the last 2 to 3 months, my engine began to miss only when I am stopped at a traffic light for a while (about 30 seconds or longer), esp after the car warmed up and RPMs were lower - around 500 rpm. Wouldn't do this when the car was in park or in higher gears, only on idle or occ when in reverse
My first step was to add a whole bunch of techron and use high octane gas, thinking it was a diry fuel injection. No change.
Then CEL light came on with code error for TPS. Had that replaced by my mechanic for $200. No change - engine continued to miss.
Took it to another mechanic who cleaned out the throttle body for another $100. This improved things some, but the engine continues to miss if I idle too long.
This past weekend, I got the Hayne's repair manual: Increased the idle RPM to spec by adjusting screw. Did self check of ECM - got 0505 code meaning nothing wrong. Checked my coils. Replaced my air filter. Poured over all messages on this board with possible similar problems. Problem is still the same. Engine continues to miss after car has warmed up and has been idling for too long.
Don't know what is causing this or if this is even critical, but it is definitely annoying and I have spent some time and money on this. Would like to know if anybody has any suggestions.
I did get a 120k tuneup at 115k with spark plugs replaced, but this problem didn't start until 10 to 15K miles after tuneup, so I don't think it is the plugs.
Thanks for any replies or help!
My first step was to add a whole bunch of techron and use high octane gas, thinking it was a diry fuel injection. No change.
Then CEL light came on with code error for TPS. Had that replaced by my mechanic for $200. No change - engine continued to miss.
Took it to another mechanic who cleaned out the throttle body for another $100. This improved things some, but the engine continues to miss if I idle too long.
This past weekend, I got the Hayne's repair manual: Increased the idle RPM to spec by adjusting screw. Did self check of ECM - got 0505 code meaning nothing wrong. Checked my coils. Replaced my air filter. Poured over all messages on this board with possible similar problems. Problem is still the same. Engine continues to miss after car has warmed up and has been idling for too long.
Don't know what is causing this or if this is even critical, but it is definitely annoying and I have spent some time and money on this. Would like to know if anybody has any suggestions.
I did get a 120k tuneup at 115k with spark plugs replaced, but this problem didn't start until 10 to 15K miles after tuneup, so I don't think it is the plugs.
Thanks for any replies or help!
#606
Okay, my question involves a recent run-in with the law today.
He said my tint was too dark on my 1996.
My max has the fake woodgrain and the tan leather and the bose and all that.
Almost every option except for heated seats.
Anyways I was thinking maybe it was a factory option & maybe I could fight it in the courtroom.
I'm in Georgia & our tint law is 32%
For some reason my maxima is 12% & I've had it like that for two years & I'm just now getting pulled over for it.
Was there a special option for the 96's that gave you 12% tint?
He said my tint was too dark on my 1996.
My max has the fake woodgrain and the tan leather and the bose and all that.
Almost every option except for heated seats.
Anyways I was thinking maybe it was a factory option & maybe I could fight it in the courtroom.
I'm in Georgia & our tint law is 32%
For some reason my maxima is 12% & I've had it like that for two years & I'm just now getting pulled over for it.
Was there a special option for the 96's that gave you 12% tint?
#608
Originally Posted by yanshiang
I did get a 120k tuneup at 115k with spark plugs replaced, but this problem didn't start until 10 to 15K miles after tuneup, so I don't think it is the plugs.
Thanks for any replies or help!
Thanks for any replies or help!
Did you change the fuel filter?
#609
Originally Posted by 67whitegoat
how do the Tein H-Techs ride in comparison to stock?
#610
Originally Posted by renagade281
#612
Originally Posted by fleck12345
hey guys.. im going to custom make a cat-back for my max and was wondering how big the piping should be.. im thinking about either 2.25 inch or 2.5.. any ideas?
Info/tips:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=430498
#613
Originally Posted by KRRZ350
Night and day difference.
Originally Posted by phenryiv1
Very well. They are only slightly stiffer than stock, and they control body roll well v. stock springs. With good struts, they (in my ipinion) ride better than stock, which feels a bit "floaty" on the A32.
Originally Posted by Unfaithful
Was there a special option for the 96's that gave you 12% tint?
#614
Originally Posted by 67whitegoat
NO SUCH OPTION. 12% IS ILLEGAL IN MOST STATES IF NOT ALL. RAN IT FOR TWO YEARS, HAD A GOOD RUN.
#615
Good thread. I do have a question. I just bought a 95 SE/auto/94k miles for $2200. I bought it because the girl down the street couldn't come up with a price for her damaged (needs front sheetmetal, brakes, other body work) 2000 SE black/black/auto/111k miles. I get home today and she flags me down and says "$700". Crap. So, how much of a 2000 can i put on/into/swap my 95... interior... wheels...?
#616
Originally Posted by rickw
Good thread. I do have a question. I just bought a 95 SE/auto/94k miles for $2200. I bought it because the girl down the street couldn't come up with a price for her damaged (needs front sheetmetal, brakes, other body work) 2000 SE black/black/auto/111k miles. I get home today and she flags me down and says "$700". Crap. So, how much of a 2000 can i put on/into/swap my 95... interior... wheels...?
#617
I have a 99 Maxima and have recently had problems with the engine struggling to accelerate at times. I can feel it vibrating through the pedal. It doesn't happen all the time, but it is becoming more frequent. I'm pretty sure i just need to replace my spark plugs, but i also know that the coil packs are a problem with the 99's. I would appreciate any input that anyone might have on what you think the problem is.
#618
My daughter has a 98 Maxima that has codes for Evap system & also Knock sensor.
The dealer today pinpointed a problem with the Purge Volume Control Valve...Can someone give me more info on changing this? Where is it located?
I tried the search but have only been able to use the Free Search & it comes up with nothing...
The dealer today pinpointed a problem with the Purge Volume Control Valve...Can someone give me more info on changing this? Where is it located?
I tried the search but have only been able to use the Free Search & it comes up with nothing...
#619
Originally Posted by castlemax
I have a 99 Maxima and have recently had problems with the engine struggling to accelerate at times. I can feel it vibrating through the pedal. It doesn't happen all the time, but it is becoming more frequent. I'm pretty sure i just need to replace my spark plugs, but i also know that the coil packs are a problem with the 99's. I would appreciate any input that anyone might have on what you think the problem is.
#620
Originally Posted by jteer1971
My daughter has a 98 Maxima that has codes for Evap system & also Knock sensor.
The dealer today pinpointed a problem with the Purge Volume Control Valve...Can someone give me more info on changing this? Where is it located?
I tried the search but have only been able to use the Free Search & it comes up with nothing...
The dealer today pinpointed a problem with the Purge Volume Control Valve...Can someone give me more info on changing this? Where is it located?
I tried the search but have only been able to use the Free Search & it comes up with nothing...
#621
Hey,
Whenever I take a left turn I hear this "whirring" noise coming from my front right tire. It doesnt do it when I take a right and the noise slows down as I slow down, so that hints to me that it has somethin to do with the wheel. Also, I had the code 07 04 pop up. I looked it up, but I can't figure how to fix it. Can anybody send me some kind of guide to fix it? Thank you.
Whenever I take a left turn I hear this "whirring" noise coming from my front right tire. It doesnt do it when I take a right and the noise slows down as I slow down, so that hints to me that it has somethin to do with the wheel. Also, I had the code 07 04 pop up. I looked it up, but I can't figure how to fix it. Can anybody send me some kind of guide to fix it? Thank you.
#622
Originally Posted by lemises
Hey,
Whenever I take a left turn I hear this "whirring" noise coming from my front right tire. It doesnt do it when I take a right and the noise slows down as I slow down, so that hints to me that it has somethin to do with the wheel. Also, I had the code 07 04 pop up. I looked it up, but I can't figure how to fix it. Can anybody send me some kind of guide to fix it? Thank you.
Whenever I take a left turn I hear this "whirring" noise coming from my front right tire. It doesnt do it when I take a right and the noise slows down as I slow down, so that hints to me that it has somethin to do with the wheel. Also, I had the code 07 04 pop up. I looked it up, but I can't figure how to fix it. Can anybody send me some kind of guide to fix it? Thank you.
Anyway, check the sticky threads for the 0704 code.
The whirring could be several things- tire wear, alignment, brake warpage, bent rim, etc.
Does it do it when you brake? When accellerating? When coasting?
Welcome to the forum!
#623
Thanks... People we're replying to the questions posted after mine, so I thought I got skipped or something. I already looked at the sticky... I just don't where the part is or what to do with it. Also, I hear the noise when Im coasting. Usually its at under 20 mph and without my foot on the gas.
#624
Originally Posted by lemises
Thanks... People we're replying to the questions posted after mine, so I thought I got skipped or something. I already looked at the sticky... I just don't where the part is or what to do with it. Also, I hear the noise when Im coasting. Usually its at under 20 mph and without my foot on the gas.
#625
Originally Posted by lemises
Thanks... People we're replying to the questions posted after mine, so I thought I got skipped or something. I already looked at the sticky...
0704
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0704 points to a problem with the Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor. The EVAPCSPS is installed in the purge line. The sensor detects the pressure inside the purge line and sends a signal to the Engine Control Module. The signal voltage is directly proportional to pressure. The EVAPCSPS is not directly used to control engine operating parameters. It is used only to evaluate EVAP performance. Therefore a car with DTC 0704 should start and run normally.
The EVAPCSPS is located on the underside of the car near the left rear wheel. It is mounted near, but not directly on, the EVAP canister.
This malfunction is detected when the EVAPCSPS sends an out-of-range voltage signal to the Engine Control Module.
Possible causes include...
- harness or connectors (The EVAPCSPS circuit is open or shorted.)
- bad EVAPCSPS
- EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve is stuck open
- rubber hose connected to EVAPCSPS is clogged, bent, kinked, disconnected, or improperly connected
- EVAP Canister is damaged or saturated with water
- rubber hose from EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve to the water separator
- EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0704 points to a problem with the Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor. The EVAPCSPS is installed in the purge line. The sensor detects the pressure inside the purge line and sends a signal to the Engine Control Module. The signal voltage is directly proportional to pressure. The EVAPCSPS is not directly used to control engine operating parameters. It is used only to evaluate EVAP performance. Therefore a car with DTC 0704 should start and run normally.
The EVAPCSPS is located on the underside of the car near the left rear wheel. It is mounted near, but not directly on, the EVAP canister.
This malfunction is detected when the EVAPCSPS sends an out-of-range voltage signal to the Engine Control Module.
Possible causes include...
- harness or connectors (The EVAPCSPS circuit is open or shorted.)
- bad EVAPCSPS
- EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve is stuck open
- rubber hose connected to EVAPCSPS is clogged, bent, kinked, disconnected, or improperly connected
- EVAP Canister is damaged or saturated with water
- rubber hose from EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve to the water separator
- EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve
#626
i have this noise coming from the front drivers side near the wheel well/bumper...i only hear it when im going 50 MPH+..and the flapping gets faster as i got faster
it definitely sounds like a piece of the bumper or up under the bumper flapping in the wind..but when i get down there i cant find anything that would flap..anyone else have this problem?
it definitely sounds like a piece of the bumper or up under the bumper flapping in the wind..but when i get down there i cant find anything that would flap..anyone else have this problem?
#627
Originally Posted by Cdg2125
It is on top of the IM. Little black thing with three hoses attached to it. It's in the Haynes manual as well. You just need a new one if it's the problem. Disconnect hoses and reconnect to the new one.
#628
Originally Posted by renagade281
i have this noise coming from the front drivers side near the wheel well/bumper...i only hear it when im going 50 MPH+..and the flapping gets faster as i got faster
it definitely sounds like a piece of the bumper or up under the bumper flapping in the wind..but when i get down there i cant find anything that would flap..anyone else have this problem?
it definitely sounds like a piece of the bumper or up under the bumper flapping in the wind..but when i get down there i cant find anything that would flap..anyone else have this problem?
#630
Originally Posted by jteer1971
I may be way off base here, but I once had a vehicle that sounded just like that...come to find out, it was a bad wheel bearing.
im pretty sure its something flapping though but i will check into what you are saying
#631
my 95 maxima ac/heater head unit is acting up, levels 1 through 3 are non functional, AC only works on the fourth level... so question is should i replace it or is there something that i can do about it with out buying another head unit, i've looked'em up on ebay and i only found one.
any help will be greatly appriciated.
thanx
any help will be greatly appriciated.
thanx
#632
Originally Posted by fabdab
my 95 maxima ac/heater head unit is acting up, levels 1 through 3 are non functional, AC only works on the fourth level... so question is should i replace it or is there something that i can do about it with out buying another head unit, i've looked'em up on ebay and i only found one.
any help will be greatly appriciated.
thanx
any help will be greatly appriciated.
thanx
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...2&postcount=19
#634
Originally Posted by renagade281
so how do i find out if thats the problem?
im pretty sure its something flapping though but i will check into what you are saying
im pretty sure its something flapping though but i will check into what you are saying
#635
Hey
Everytime I start my car, my clock does something different. For example, I'll start the car and everything works fine, but my clock won't turn on. Sometime my clock will turn on, but it will say its 1 a.m. when its 8:30 p.m. at night. Does anybody know how I can fix this?
Everytime I start my car, my clock does something different. For example, I'll start the car and everything works fine, but my clock won't turn on. Sometime my clock will turn on, but it will say its 1 a.m. when its 8:30 p.m. at night. Does anybody know how I can fix this?
#636
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (29)
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,572
From: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
Originally Posted by fabdab
my 95 maxima ac/heater head unit is acting up, levels 1 through 3 are non functional, AC only works on the fourth level... so question is should i replace it or is there something that i can do about it with out buying another head unit, i've looked'em up on ebay and i only found one.
any help will be greatly appriciated.
thanx
any help will be greatly appriciated.
thanx
#637
Question
I am very new to car modding and cars in general. I have a 1998 Nissan Maxima SE with the full package (moon roof, leather, etc.) and as I save up money to put into it i've been doing "research" on what to do. I have already gotten rims and new tail lights and clear bumper lenses- the typical things, but I am now kind of looking for more a performance car then a looking car.
I was looking for suggestions and or reviews on the pieces that i've found and if you know of higher performance pieces than please let me know.
For $279.99 an Injen RD Cold Air Intake. I see a lot of people have Place Racing CAI's, but I cannot find them online. The website wont let me on (it says it doesnt exist) and google wont tell me of any suppliers. I feel like I might be spending too much money on the CAI because I see plent on ebay for $20-150$, but I do know Injen is a reliable company. Also I live in the Northeast where it does snow a lot and water is a constant problem, so I'm inbetween a CAI and a shortram/popcharger. I do know my CAI will go in my fender well, but is it safe from water there? Are Short rams worth the money? Did you see a difference after installation?
Netami 67-1010 Stut Tower Brace for $60.00. I dont really know the difference in the braces other than thickness, weight, and durability. Are there any better brands because this is all I can find.
Apexi WS2 116-KN10 exhaust system for $474.95. Or GReddy SP2 10127022 for $570.00. I like the way both of them sound but if anyone has one then a review of it would be nice. I also know of Megan Racing and Pace Setter for $250-$500. But I dont want something too attention getting.
For aesthetics i'm going to be 30% tinting my back windows and rear windshield, changing all the lighting inside to blue LEDS (guages, courtesy lights, dome light, etc.), any other suggestions??
Thanks.
I was looking for suggestions and or reviews on the pieces that i've found and if you know of higher performance pieces than please let me know.
For $279.99 an Injen RD Cold Air Intake. I see a lot of people have Place Racing CAI's, but I cannot find them online. The website wont let me on (it says it doesnt exist) and google wont tell me of any suppliers. I feel like I might be spending too much money on the CAI because I see plent on ebay for $20-150$, but I do know Injen is a reliable company. Also I live in the Northeast where it does snow a lot and water is a constant problem, so I'm inbetween a CAI and a shortram/popcharger. I do know my CAI will go in my fender well, but is it safe from water there? Are Short rams worth the money? Did you see a difference after installation?
Netami 67-1010 Stut Tower Brace for $60.00. I dont really know the difference in the braces other than thickness, weight, and durability. Are there any better brands because this is all I can find.
Apexi WS2 116-KN10 exhaust system for $474.95. Or GReddy SP2 10127022 for $570.00. I like the way both of them sound but if anyone has one then a review of it would be nice. I also know of Megan Racing and Pace Setter for $250-$500. But I dont want something too attention getting.
For aesthetics i'm going to be 30% tinting my back windows and rear windshield, changing all the lighting inside to blue LEDS (guages, courtesy lights, dome light, etc.), any other suggestions??
Thanks.
#639
Creaking noise from front right while braking
I've searched the forums extensively to see if this exact problem has been solved before, but nothing yet. My 1995 Maxima SE recently started a very obvious creaking or scraping sound from the front right wheel area.
- Only happens while braking
- Creaking sound occurs with each turn of the tire at that pace
- Does not happen while braking in reverse
- New pads and rotors (noise before and after install)
- Usually goes away after driving for awhile (by the time I get to the shop it's gone). Shop checked it out: dust shield, etc, seems fine.
- No noise when spinning the free wheel on a lift.
Any ideas? Maybe the wheel hub? Thanks.
UPDATE 10/07/07: FYI, replacement of the right front wheel bearing and hub fixed this problem. ~$450 at the shop. Hopefully this information may help someone out there in the future...
- Only happens while braking
- Creaking sound occurs with each turn of the tire at that pace
- Does not happen while braking in reverse
- New pads and rotors (noise before and after install)
- Usually goes away after driving for awhile (by the time I get to the shop it's gone). Shop checked it out: dust shield, etc, seems fine.
- No noise when spinning the free wheel on a lift.
Any ideas? Maybe the wheel hub? Thanks.
UPDATE 10/07/07: FYI, replacement of the right front wheel bearing and hub fixed this problem. ~$450 at the shop. Hopefully this information may help someone out there in the future...
Last edited by anam; 10-07-2007 at 08:45 PM.
#640
Originally Posted by lemises
Hey
Everytime I start my car, my clock does something different. For example, I'll start the car and everything works fine, but my clock won't turn on. Sometime my clock will turn on, but it will say its 1 a.m. when its 8:30 p.m. at night. Does anybody know how I can fix this?
Everytime I start my car, my clock does something different. For example, I'll start the car and everything works fine, but my clock won't turn on. Sometime my clock will turn on, but it will say its 1 a.m. when its 8:30 p.m. at night. Does anybody know how I can fix this?