Oh and just wanted to add, it sounds like you may have a full harness with the ecu? If that's the case you wouldn't need THAT much more stuff to do the full on swap, ignore anything regarding the full swap in the faq, you will find up-to-date info about that in the first couple pages of 3.5 swap threads in the all motor forum.

 

i've been reading extensively on this. i emailed stephenmax but that didnt go anywhere so yeah i was gonna go for hitting 15 posts to pm him.

this might sound dumb but whats an rpm switch? how does that work?

how do i become a donating member?

 

how hard is it to get the old bushings off and the new on? I've read that you have to get them pressed on. is it expensive? probably will replace balljoints to. Total cost? will Napa do this? Also, I can't find any es bushings. anyone have a link or something. Should I go with the es (if i can find them) or just get some from nissan?

 

Nissan only sells the whole control arm, and your better off just buying the whole control arms off e-bay, either way with those there is no need to.......use a propane torch to burn off the old bushings.....

 

Somewhere on the homepage is a link for donating, it's not THAT hard to find. An rpm switch opens or closes a circuit at a given rpm, summit sells them or you can go to google and type in- baker electronics rpm switch for a cheap pre-programmed rpm switch, 3600 rpm's 6 cylinder is what you want to ask for. Now, stop asking swap questions in here, you neeed to de-noob yourself first

 

Bump to the 1st page.

 

Since i cannot post anywhere and i am in desperate need of Help. So here it goes.

- 1995 Maxima
- Misfire almost 3 weeks back since then Vibration started + RPM went low + Engine Check light
- Had Tune Up Done Last Week. (New Plugs + filters etc)
- Ignition Coil OK. Cylinder #4 looks like having issues.
- All the igintion coil working fine in all the cylinders but when you plug those Ignition Coils in Cylinder #4 you don't get any response.
- Checked ECU code it was 0505 - (No Failure Recorded/Detected)
- Reset ECU and now check engine light is gone.
- Put some high quality Injector Cleaner. Now the ride is a bit smooth but the power/Acceleration is not their as it used to. Also Vibrates at low speed.

Any Suggestions and Guidance would be really appreciated. Thanks in Advance.

I have been advised to do as follows:

use a stechescope or screwdriver to listen for the injector clicking on cylinder #4, check voltage, ohms. And there is a newbie thread titled "i am new here but have a question"

Also Could be a bad Injector.......

But
How come bad injector would cause Cylinder #4 to Misfire?....I am describing Cylinder as where i have the spark plug and Ingition Coil installed.

 

A complex bump.. http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...7&postcount=35

Any codes?
I told him to post in here now, since this thread DID happen to fall to the 3rd page

 

Dealer saying my MAF needs replacing

Guys, I need some help on this.

My problem with my 96 GXE is, after about 40min of driving my car starts missing and and is unresponsive. The last day I drove it, it was 100 degrees outside, and I barely made it home, stepping on gas, RPMS were flying yet, speedo and my car wasn't going barely anywhere. Car spuddered home and after car cooled after about 1 hour, took car for drive and it worked normal. Idle and response normal again. This was the worst is has gotten, which is why I have it at the dealer now. Prior, it got sluggish after driving 40min, but the hotter the temp is outside, the worse it gets it seems.

I am having the speedo head replaced, as the speedometer/cruise/odo has been working on and off for several years and I recently had my VSS replaced also (from AAmco) - The dealer is telling me the car won't run right until the MAF is replaced, but they want $715 to do this. After looking at these forums, cleaning and/or rreplacing it doesn't appear to be too difficult, but wanted your views and if this is a common characteristic of the MAF failing(car unresponsive only when very hot) I wanted to make sure that this symptom may be something else. I asked the service mgr if the tech can clean the MAF and he said that it cannot be cleaned, which I know is BS.

Any help is appreciated.

 

Well cleaning the maf doesn't really help in most cases, and that's the response I would have expected from the dealer. I can't say if the maf is the problem on your car or not, however my geuss from what I've heard already the first thing that pops in my head is that this is being caused by the vss and your ?auto? tranny, is, ummmm, ?not up-shifting? Also, a vss code means a faulty vss OR problem in the circuit, so it could be an intermittent problem in the circuit somewhere hence replacing the sensor didn't help and sometimes everything is ok......

One more thing about the maf, if it is indeed the cause, or faulty, it wouldn't be that hard to diagnose with a few simple checks and an obdII scanner or consult (what the nissan dealer would be using), and also $750 is pretty damn expesive, I could sell you a perfectly working maf for $65 and even if you were mentally AND physically challenged I would still rag on you if it took more than 15 minutes.

 

Cottman's tests ruled out all tranny problems and they said it appears problem may be coming from cluster, but they weren't 100% certain.

why is this problem occuring only when engine is hot, when I start and drive around for short period, Not 1 indication that ther's a problem...

that is piece of puzzle that doesn't add up to me...

 

Ummm, yeah that was me, thought that response looked familiar. I think I scanned right past the fact that you are getting a flashing check engine light. So, swap the coils (sounds like you already have?) and if cylinder 4 still isn't firing than remove the coil and plug and check for spark. No spark, then skip the injector stuff and become familiar with pages 18-22 of the EC section of the fsm (download from phatg20.net or http://www.vq35de.com/ESM), then refer to ec192, ec290, and feel free to ask questions along the way.

 

so then get it nice and hot and begin testing out the vss/gauge cluster/wiring. It will be difficult and confusing at first but all of the knowledge and info you need is in the FSM and if the basic electronic stuff baffles you go to google, it might take a bit but you will save an arm an a leg from diagnostic fees and you will come out of it all very very knowledgable compared to before.

I'll help you in any way I can, but I can't sit there and tell you 'locate this connector located here and check between connector f106 located here and make sure there is prefect contiuity

 

I asked the service manager about the cluster and so forth, on why I'm getting the VSS code when I just had it changed and he started getting all pissy with me asking "if you're doubting our service" and all this crap.... I asked him to validate if the VSS went bad that was just changed, or is something else not being read correctly... I hate dealers, they want to rake you is all they're good at... Anyone have any input to this type of issue I'm having with VSS code coming back and possible MAF being bad, with sluggish response, hesitation, etc?

 

Are you kidding me dude? Read above post and/or bring it to a good independent garage. And next time someone gives you damn good advice say thank you and ask for clarification over any parts you don't understand instead of re-asking the question.

 

Why are you saying, are you kidding me? Is my question THAT off the wall? I am NOT a mechanic like you, I am a Systems Admin, and don't have the test equipment to perform those type of tests. I have a basic knowledge of cars and am getting a better understanding of Nissans by this and some other forums. I appreciate your input, (THANK YOU by the way) - but wanted OTHERS views and if they had a similar experience with the symptoms I mentioned to help me along...
The problem is, it is very difficult to troubleshoot these type of problems, (by me AND shop mechanics) because of the fact that the symptoms don't show up immediately, the car has to be hot and you have to have someone that has Nissan experience with these problems obviously, and thats why I brought it to the dealer. makes sense, right? But, this service manager came off with an a**h*** attitude because I was asking if any other codes came up. He said only Knock & VSS. I then asked, why do you think it's the MAF then, he then felt I was backing him into a corner and got all pissy with me. In a nutshell, the dealer wants to fix any and every thing on your car that may have wear on it, even if its not broker, AND they want to replace everything that is commonly replaced in this type of car(ie: Knock Snes, MAF, VSS,etc) That is bs to me. I will buy the MAF cleaner today and clean it out and also tap the MAF housing while car is running to see if there is a fluctuation in idle. If there is, I am purchasing a MAF sensor from advanced auto and I'll go from there. By the way, the service mgr said the "foreman" who worked on my car said by replacing the speedometer, the VSS code should NOT come back, but he said he didnt scan for codes again, because I didnt want other work done... they suck! thanks in advance for any helpful comments.

 

I have a question on the Luminics JDM Yellow H3 Bulbs. Is the yellow fog light look good. It will be very helpful if someone on the forums have a picture of it. thanks a lot

 

You should check the members ride forums....
http://forums.maxima.org/forumdisplay.php?f=83

 

I've got a question regarding noises coming from my front end.

It started a month or so ago with a sort of a "wum-wum-wum" oscillating sound when going around curves to the right, mainly at slower speeds. I hear it coming from the passenger's side.

It's now escalated to a constant "rrrrrr" or humming sound. It is most noticable when turning right, braking or going down a hill but it is always present.

My first thought was that my cv axles could be going. I crawled under my car to have a look, and both boots are fine, and there is no play in the axles themself. I've not had a chance to put the car up on jackstands and see if there is any play in the front wheels.

I also drove around in circles for awhile. No telltale clicks or anything.

Do you guys think it could be a wheel bearing? If so, does it need to be pressed off? How long can I drive before something disastrous happens?

Thanks for any help at all. (I don't drive a 4th gen, but I like how they look and I'd like to have one)

 

Wheel bearing gets my vote. Some have had them pressed on/off, some have replaced the entire hub, search.

 

Thats a wheel bearing....they have to be pressed in and out of the knuckle....most shops can do it....
Nothing disastrous will happen. I have had my wheel bearing issue for over a year...I know I cant stop the modding....

Get the wheel bearings checked and/or replaced.

 

Hey guys.. just got a 96 Maxima and the car didnt come with the keyfob things. (2 keys but just by themselves.. dont know why)

Anyways, I reached in the open window and manually unlocked the car and damn if the alarm didnt go blairing at 1am. I was forced to open the hood and VERY quickly disconnect the neg cable. WAY loud in my hood, in the middle of the night.

Anyways, when I touch the neg cable to the batt, the alarm (horn) starts blairing again. How do I get the alarm deactivated? I dont have the keyless entry things, just the keys. Should I let the alarm go off and put the key in the door and turn to UNLOCK it? Will this shut off the loud *** horn/alarm?

Thanks in advanced...

 

when you put the negative battery cable back on, go over to your driver door and unlock it manually with your key....that is the backup way to stop the alarm.

 

this might be a really supid question. but if i take the grille and hood off of a 4.5gen, would an I30 hood/grille fit right in? or would there be some retrofitting to do?

thanks

 

To put on any I30 front end parts you have to transfer everything. Hood, grill, bumper, fenders, head and side lights....The only part of the cars the I30 and max have in common are the doors and roof...IIRC...

 

o rly? i thought that since they shared cefiro headlights, the hood would somehow have to fit the same dimensions.... thanks for the info.

 

I have been hearing noise from my a/c compressor, how hard of a job is this to replace? What is a good brand to buy? thanks.

 

ha this makes alot of sense

 

Does anyone know if the ecu pulls timing/over fuels if it detects that the car is overheating?

 

Yes it does

 

i have a noobie question, how do i gain hp but at da same time i dun want to hear dem loud muffler sound?

 

00VI/Headers/Cattman B/5th gen rear/EU

 

NmexMAX, wut do u mean by 5th gen rear? ( muffler or somthing) and also wuts a EU..?? thanks a lot man

 

Folks,

I've been lurking on this board for a few months after I purchased a 98 Maxima, 5 speed. The 3rd and 4th gear synchro went and I had the part replaced, along with a few bearings. About 2 weeks after the car was fixed I ran into an intermittant starting problem exactly like post 109 in this thread.

The car has been at my local mechanic (not the same place that fixed the tranny) for a week now; however, he is having trouble finding the cause. The camshaft sensor was replaced, but the problem still exists. There are no codes in the CEL (other than a knock sensor code, which should have no effect on starting). Once the car starts it runs fine, gets great gas mileage.
He is using a scope to see the square waves from the sensors. All look good except for a quick blip that goes away on the crankshaft sensor.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Please check post 109 for the details on the hard starting.

Thank you,

Joel

 

damn it nmex, you're in the 4th gen forum, headers and no Y = precats, stop doing that Can't believe you even replied to that one though.

AHAHAHA, ANOTHER ONE!! Comes up on the .org somewhere like once a week.......... Clutch/Trans removal crazy starting issue thread

 

I still think headers > y-pipe even in my A32.

 

Hello all...I own a '99 Cali spec (ugh...). I am throwing a 0315 code (downstream O2 sensor fault). I am nowhere near home for the next three weeks and therefore don't have access to the info I normally have, hence my coming here.

Here's my question - I traced the wires and believe it is the downstream bank 2 sensor - the one with the red sheathing and 3 wires. I'm doing the best I can to describe it, so be gentle

I don't want to splice wires with a generic replacement, so what I need to know is a source and a part number for the 'plug and play' sensor. Any help would be most appreciated.

Thanks,
c303

 

I'm looking to replace my Axles (CV Joints are clicking) on my '95 SE. I'm pretty sure I can do the work, I'm just having an issue with what the guy at O'Riely's is telling me. He wants to know what kind of transmission I have. He knows I'm driving a manual but apparently, he says, there's more than 1 type and he needs to know which one I have. How do I find that out?

 

Are you auto or manual, that's one point.

Also, if you're manual:

This is why he's asking you:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=449781

How to tell what YOU have:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=369450

 

Awesome! Thanks. This thread has saved me a grand total of 3 times so far.