having issues with rear driver side power window tried new motor/reg wiring all works on oposite side of the car tried master switch and swapped both rear switches glass is not stuck 3 of 4 windows work ? team nissan wants 100 to look at it cant be rockett science

 

Exactly what are the 'issues' you're having? Will it not go down, not go up, works slowly, makes noise, blows a fuse when using, what?

 

it doesnt do anything at all no up no down no noises at all front 2 work fin rear passenger works fine sun roof works but the rear drivers side does nothing ive tried checkin fuses got a test lte check all under the dash im out of ideas

 

Have you checked for power on the purple and white/red wires at the LR window switch? Checked for a good ground at the black wire?

If you operate the window switch, do you get power and ground down to the regulator harness?

Have you checked continuity on the data lines (red/black and red/yellow) from the switch to the BCM, or to any of the other switches?

 

i checked it a while ago before i change the harness coming from the door pillar into the door the reg was getting 10.4 wich seamed ocward as far vas testing all the other stuff that would be kind of out of my league if it were more simplised i could do it

 

Why did you change out the door harness?

If you can't do the tests, we can't continue with a diagnosis. Testing for power, ground, and continuity are electrical 101, and necessary to diagnose an electrical fault.

 

i changed the door harnes becuase a friend sadthat could be the problem it was all torn up and had "duct tape" on it when the other was nice and clean i have a voltage meter kinda new to using it though im gonna brin the laptop out to the car and try to check some things after work tomorrow

 

Ok. I'm new here, and really need help figuring out why my Maxima is making this noise. I bought this car REALLY REALLY cheap and want to fix it, but I'm limited on funds (due to I need to get this car up and running/registered in two weeks @ $150 a week spending money).

I think it might be the timing chain tensioner, but I'm not 100% sure on this one and don't have the funds to play guessing games. The symptoms are:
-Car makes this horrid noise (coming directly from the timing chain cover)
-The car on idle only when hot sometimes flashes the oil pressure light (low pressure)
-The car starts to misfire when the car is warm and after the oil pressure light has come on for the first time (although, one spark boot did get stuck and break when I tried to change the sparks earlier this week (appears to be broken from previous); maybe a electrical discharge from the plug being exposed is causing the misfire?)


Click the pic for video.

If anyone can tell me for sure what this is, I would be 1000% grateful.

BTW, I brought it to my mechanic yesterday, and he thinks that the bearings are shot. I don't think so because there is no knocking. Just lots of rattles. That or the water pump "pulley" has a bad bearing. Again, I don't think so because it don't overheat at all. In fact it's perfect.

 

need more info about the car. Year and mileage? Any work on the engine in the past?

Video of noise?

The VQ does have audible valve noise, but its nothing to worry about.

If the engine sounds loud like a helicopter, u have a chain tensioner issue and thats bad if the car is 96 or earlier. On those cars, the tensioner is a poor design and can fail. Albeit, it can take a long time to fail. It depends on how long the problem has persisted. On my 93 max, i had this problem and it took 2 yrs for the car to die lol.

The bad news is that the update for the 95 or 96 max is on the 97+. They dont make the old style anymore so u HAVE to upgrade to the new style. But in order to use the new style they all have to replaced. This requires removing timing cover and most likely the engine.

If YOU cant do it...call it 400-600 bucks in labor depending on who u go to. More if u go to the dealer.

OR u can try to find a used engine and drop that in when the engine dies.

But IDK if u have a tensioner issue as i cant hear the noise. U gonna have to provide more info

 

My bad...i jus saw the video lol

The video is a lil choppy and loud but i didnt hear any chain rattle so it dont sound like a tensioner issue.

I did see RTV all around your timing case. which means the car has already been opened up. The guy who sold u the car most likely can tell u why its like that.

I think its fine and u only paid short money. Rock that bish till the wheels fall off!

THe misfire is def from the broken coil. Replace that.

Regarding oil pressure light. Is the car leakin oil? It may be eating oil and that aint good either. Or the oil pump is busted. U may have to clean the entire bay and look for that leak.

 

96 @ ~180k

I can hear the valves. Not the issue.

The engine bay does sound like a Blackhawk. I planned to get the new tensioner and swap over the innards like a lot of members here do.


Here's a second video. Much better audio quality. (Classic Apple vs Google here...) If this video still isn't good enough I have a even better camera.

I figured the broken coil was to blame for the hot engine misfire. Gotta figure out how to pull the boot stuck in the chamber now.

Timing cover was removed to replace water pump (hence why I don't think it's the pump/pump pulley.

Oil could very well be leaking from the covers (the tensioner/water pump pulley plates). Seems like they never sealed those plates correctly afterwards. But there is enough oil in the engine at all times. Bad pump maybe? How hard is it to replace? Seems like you just remove the first oil pan and it's right there. Is that right?

P.S. Sorry if I seem ignorant. I'm used to working on Fords my whole life. A very different monster compared to these Jap beasts. : D

 

soo i ripped apart my max today after work looking for any signs of bad wiring or coroted connections still no idea why my rear driver side door gets No power at all not to the window or power locks but its fine with all the other doors

 

Vehicle:
1995 Nissan Maxima GXE

Symptoms:
Turn signal switch smoking when turn signal switched on. Sometimes get stuck when moved back to the middle and clicks rapidly.

Question:
What are the procedures to replace the turn signal switch? Do I need to disable the air bag or remove fuses of any kind?

I have ordered the new unit from a parts store without fog-lights just like on my car and want to replace it as soon as possible before it fails all together, thanks for any help.

 

Very simple. Remove upper and lower steering column covers, then 2 screws on the switch where it connects to the column.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ykT9uCJXSY

Follow these directions until you have both covers off, then replace that stalk.

 

TO be clear...u have checked the wire connector w/ a mulitmeter and getting no power through the connector? After u checked the connector did u check the wires themselves for power?

U need to find the power relay in the car and most likely rewire to the door. THat is NOT gonna be fun. But its doable.

Jus make sure the connector or window switch isnt bad first.

 

96 GXE....For those of you that run 17" wheels, what size tires do you have? Obviously stock size is 205/65/15 and I want upgrade to 17's and want to know from users what sizes they are running.

 

Firestone Firehawk 225 50 r17

 

I searched but can't find a straight answer. Will 5th gen springs fit my 4th gen struts. Thank you

 

you can make anything fit

 

^ Lol still not the answer I'm looking for, but thank you

 

IDK, but if ye SEARCH ye shall find.

My gut tells me no it wont fit.

 

Anyone? Really want to know what this noise is... Don't wanna buy parts if the motor is 100% crap.

 

Thanks a lot I'm going to try that

 

that video is better but not by much. I did hear some chain rattle i think.

The next video u take can u start the car up while video taping then bring the camera over.

If the water pump was replaced then u shdnt have needed the RTV. It looks like the timing case was opened to me. If the noise is unbearable..i wd replace the engine. U can find a used 96 engine with low miles and a good price.

 

No unbearable, just annoying. Car runs fine except for the bad spark boot when the car heats up.

I'll have to make a new video tomorrow. Raining like cats and dogs right now.

If the previous owner took it to a mechanic any near here, then the mechanic probably opened it. They are not very bright around here, and seem to have this misconception that the timing chain has to be removed with the water pump. Best thing I can think of.

 

If they think that then they are fawking idiots.

under normal circumstances you should never have to open the timing case. If u do, then u have a "major" problem And should replace chain, tensioners, guides, seals, and water pump.

 

Before I spend a ton of money in this car, I'm going to goto a boneyard tomorrow and see if I can find a 97 - 99 Maxima and pull the tensioner out. Then I'll rebuild my 96 tensioner with the 97 - 99 parts and see if that makes a difference. Should change the sound to some extent if the tensioner is bad.

 

Guys,
I am a new owner of a 1998 Maxima, automatic, in great condition, no rust, runs well. I need to replace the two hood props, and have ordered them. How do you get the originals off?
Second, how can I tell if the previous owner had the timing belt replaced?
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Randy
Ithaca, NY
1998 Nissan Maxima GLE

 

You're a noob so i wont flame...the max doesnt have a timing belt. Its a timing chain. Under normal circumstances u should never have to replace the chain. Ever.

The hoodstruts jus screw off

 

I am wondering if its possible to swap over interior parts from a 1996 Infiniti i30 into a 1995 Nissan Maxima SE. Specific parts would be, seats, center console area (including cd player, climate control), speakers.

The seats from the 1996 i30 are powered, while the Nissan's are not.

The 1996 i30 has a 6-speaker Bose system, while the Nissan only has the original 4-speaker clarion system.

 

absolutely doable.

 

Is it LOWER RADIATOR SUPPORT for Maxima same like one for Infiniti I30 97.? I understand it is not same complete RADIATOR SUPPORT. But what about LOWER SUPPORT. I can't find LRS for my Infiniti but I spot good one for Maxima at U Pull (Read for 10$).

 

New to the forum with a 1998 Maxima GLE in very nice shape.
Two questions:The hood props don't work, so I ordered two new ones. How do the old ones come off?
There is a sunscreen film on all windows but the windshield. It is starting to bubble. How can I remove it?
Thanks in advance.
Randy
Ithaca, NY

 

Yes, the lower should be the same.

If they're the typical aftermarket type, then you can just use a screwdriver underneath the metal clip on the existing hood struts and pop them off of the ball retainer, then clip the new ones on.

If the new ones have the ball/socket built together as one piece, then replace them as seen here - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OCwSV...4F&index=7

 

I have a 1995 Maxima that has the seems to be common issues of rough idle in drive, poor acceleration,(rough, misses). At WOT, it doesn't miss a beat. No CEL

When pulling codes, I have the common KS code & no others. The odd thing is when doing a live data monitor, The TPS percentage value doesn't coordinate with pedal position & fluctuates one way, or the other, without moving pedal, clear out of scale. The front O2 sensor is doing the same thing, voltage bouncing above & below voltage values, quite rapidly. Neither one sets a code & this problem has been going on long enough for it to.

I have checked the TPS with meter & continuity back to the ECU, all checks fine.I didn't check O2 as I stopped with the TPS.

I do know that the KS won't turn on the CEL, after reading through the threads.

My question is do I have a bad ECU causing the problems I'm experiencing?

I have searched this form quite a bit & have not found same issues.

Chris

 

Remove film on door glass with fingers then scrape what's left with razor blade scraper, clean residue off with acetone.
Be careful on back window as you don't want to scrape through defrost elements.

 

Ok. Replaced tensioner and...

Nothing. Although, after replacing it I did notice something that I didn't notice before... The idler/tensioner pulley on the serpentine belt is wobbling away. Any chance that the pulley (if the bearings are bad) would cause this sound?

 

A bad bearing can make a lot of different kinds of sounds from low grumbling to a high pitch whine. Depends on how bad it is. Since the pulley is wobbling, you have to replace it anyway. I think it's around $20 at autozone.

 

Hello everyone. Does anyone know where this hose is connected to? It doesnt seem to have a vacuum and i just cannot find where it goes.

 

that hose is use to measure atmospheric pressure. It is supposed to be left unattached. leave it.