Got it. Thanks again!

 

The horn connector is completely separate from the airbag and cruise connectors. THere should be 2 or 3 connectors behind the steering wheel. One of them is for the horn.

 

I have a 1999 nissan maixma and was wondering how to replace the tail light lens which is on the trunk

TIA

 

yea mine has only two connectors..the yellow and blue one which hooked up to the airbag and the cruise control brown orange and white one. though when i had the wheel off i did see another main connector that had a white striped green wire and a white wire in addition to some other variants of green and other colours...

 

what ballpark hp gain should i get from this type of setup with just a basic setup?

 

There's no way to even guess without knowing how you plan to do it. There is no 'basic setup'. Most every install is going to be different.

 

So a few years ago I had my Bose head unit profesionally replaced with a pioneer unit in my 98 everything else is still stock bose. Im pretty knowledgeable with car audio but was scared to tackle the bose. Yesterday I purchased a subwoofer and amp and installed it myself. When I got evetrything installed, the radio will come on and function properly, but im getting no audio to the speakers. All I did was unplug the harness from the the the head unit, spliced the amp remote wire to the remote wire on the harness, and unhooked the battery to tie in the power supply. Is the no audio some sort of security deal with the bose portion? Please help

 

I searched for some answers and haven't seem to find anything relevant. I have a 1997 Maxima and sometimes it has a problem starting. Some days I have to hold the gas down for a bit to just get it to crank. It turns over and its getting gas but still won't crank. One time it just randomly cranked up a few days later after sitting but a week ago it happened again and i haven't gotten anything to work. Everyone that's had this problem have responses like a clogged fuel filter or that the fuel injectors need cleaning. But 3 months ago I changed the oil & filter, air filter, fuel filter, and ran the fuel injector cleaner too. I can also go ahead and let ya'll know, the starter obviously works and there's no problem getting gas and the timing chain is fine. Any help is greatly appreciated. This is my only means of transportation right now and I just need some things that could affect this so i can rule out whatever doesn't work. Thanks, Savannah!

 

Did you check the fuse that powers the speakers?

So, from the top down. It won't crank without you touching the gas pedal? You say it 'turns over' but it won't crank...which makes no sense. By 'crank', do you mean start? Big difference there.

By 'randomly cranked up' do you mean it started cranking on it's own, with no one turning the key? Or it started up perfectly without issues?

So your problem is what, long cranking times and having to use the gas pedal for it to start reliably? Clean the TB and IACV first.

 

I experienced the same thing and so did a buddy of mine. My issue was wrong spark plugs. I took it to a shop to have it figured out they said it was spark plugs. They put in the wrong kind and 2 days later I had your issue. I changed them to NGK's $15 and it started right up. Another time it was my coolant temp sensor $22 and coolant temp switch $9.

My buddies issue was... Lol he was simply out of gas. Moral of his story is make sure you have the bare necessities in place before troubleshooting. Hope this helps.

 

is there a how-to thread on replacing LCAs? i can only find how to change bushings and i'm sure there are a few unnecessary steps/tools listed if i just wanted to replace the entire LCA

ah thanks pmohr

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yTIeP...2C64F&index=20

 

My 99 would crank for a long time before starting. I had the starter tested at checker auto (now O' Reilly) and it tested good. I had them check it again and it failed. Replaced the started and haven't had any issues since. Even though the starter sounded like it was cranking pretty fast, it wasn't fast enough (I really couldn't hear a difference between the new starter and the old, but it fixed the problem).

I would check the starter along with pmohr's suggestions.

 

i have a 98 infiniti i-30 that is having problems under the hood which is pretty close to this car. its a 3.0l 4gen motor. when i start it up it jumps to 2000 rpm's then after a few secounds the rpms start to go up to red line. someone cut the EGR cable and my friend started the car while it was cut. I put the new connector on and started the car and its still doing the same thing??? anyone ever heard of this or know how to fix this???

 

No, that's not how this works. You post meaningful replies to current topics, or ask your questions in here. The post limit is in place for a reason, posting crap to get to 15 isn't tolerated well by the mods.

FWIW, the i30 is a Maxima, same chassis.

What do you mean by EGR 'cable'? A vacuum line, a wiring harness to one of the solenoids?

Checked for vacuum leaks, or a misrouted throttle/cruise cable?

Any codes?

 

checked for codes no codes. EGR "cable" sorry meant wire to a connector, i looked for anything out of the ordinary with the vacuum hoses nothing. as i was looking earlier i did notice something odd on the throttle body. it looks like something should go here because the **** has wear marks

 

Here's mine I hope this helps you out.
This might not work, if not I'll have it up in an hour.

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fb...type=1&theater

In case I deleted by mistake try this one,
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fb...type=1&theater

 

Yes thanks that helped allot, do you happen to know what that link does or what it is called, i need one i think this is what is causing the engine to rev up

Mnick 1 what kind of car and year is this off of

 

If I'm not mistaken it brings the throttle back into an idle position. I could be wrong and there may be a better explanation than mine. I'll check it out and get back to you in about an hour.

 

All 4th gens have that same FITV setup.



It helps to raise the idle until coolant temps warm up, but I've noticed absolutely no difference without it, be it below freezing or over 100 deg outside.

Again, checked the throttle and cruise control cables? Has someone hooked an engine vacuum hose up to the cruise control actuator?

If you disconnect both cables, does it still rev up? Unplug the IACV?

When it revs up, is the throttle plate opening, or is it getting air through the IACV?

Have you checked the TPS adjustment?

 

"Yes thanks that helped allot, do you happen to know what that link does or what it is called, i need one i think this is what is causing the engine to rev up

Mnick 1 what kind of car and year is this off of?"

1996 4th gen Maxima VQ30DE engine

 

ok wasn't the fast idle cam as pmohr said, hugeeeeeeeeeeeee props by the way pmohr, i disconnected both cables and it idles fine, i now need to adjust those cables so it idles right any suggestions??

 

Which cable is pulling tight on the throttle body? I've seen some hook up engine vacuum to the cruise actuator before, and it causes some rather interesting idling.

Back the adjustment all the way off, adjust it up until the idle changes, then back it off about a full turn of the nut. That should roughly give you the best throttle body operation and throttle response.

 

I have a slow beading of oil on the passenger side. It's collecting on the 22mm bolts next to the LCA but the LCA is wet also; everywhere else looks dry. Any clues on where the leak is coming from?

 

Could be an oil pressure switch, oil pan gaskets/o-rings, timing cover o-rings, PS high pressure hose, really anything in the area. You need to clean it off then try to pinpoint the leak.

If you can't spot it, you can also use some UV dye.

 

I bought an OBX header. I realize it didn't have the hole for the 02 in the front. Do I have to custom a hole?

 

I have a 1998 infiniti i30, i need a new condenser. Recently i went to a junk yard and found a condenser on a 96 or 97 maxima and its about 2 inches shorter than the one on my infiniti. I'm not sure if it is because of the year of the motor or baecause the infiniti condenser is bigger. anyone have any idea on this? Can i use the smaller condenser (not sure if the fittings will work) and put less oil and r-134a in it???

 

The '96-98 i30 uses the same condenser as the 97-98 Maxima. Most likely the fittings have changed, as they did on the compressor with the Maxima year split.

Brand new, you're only looking at ~$80 for a condenser. Much better to buy new than used, especially with A/C components; if the compressor on this junkyard car died, there could very well be a load of metal debris inside its condenser, which you may or may not be able to flush out. Not to mention possible punctures from road debris, which may not even be visible until the system is charged.

 

if you dont mind me asking but i asked auto zone and they were talking $150 for a condenser, but if i could get one for 80 i would do def do that.

 

Spectra 74758

 

You can also try here for compatible parts then do price hunting.

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...QQP40104P.html

 

what do I need to take off to change the plugs in a 99 maxima with a 3000 24 valve engine

 

The coil cover, if you still have it, and the EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve.

And the coils.

 

NO NO NO.

I jus went through this problem with my AC.

Nissan manufactured 4 differnent AC setups. ther is a 95-96, a 96-97, and 97+, 98-99. If u want EVERYTHING to match up, u need to match up production years. Check on the driver door to see when u car was manufactured then get the condenser that fits in the corresponding production year.

Failure to do so may lead to also having to buy matchin ac lines as they are NOT the same port size or interchangeable between production years.

I spent a month sorting out my ac man. Its workin now tho..ice cold

 

Read in a post related to obx items and yeah you would have to custom fit the 02 sensor.

I will try to find the related thread and post it for you here

 

ok guys i had my car aligned today and this is my question: look at the pictures below the aligment was pretty messed up, the guy told me that the passanger side axle was slinging oil. After he showed me the paper and i looked under the car i asked him if the reason the axle shifted about an quarter of an inch was from the alignment? he said no and i think he was trying to F*** me. i could see where the aligment had moved the axle that far because i could see steal and not greese covered steal. should i be worried about this ??

:

 

Can't even try to read those printouts, they're so bad.

No, the alignment will not change the in/out position of the axle within the trans. The passenger side axle is bolted to the intermediate bearing, that's what keeps it in place (as the circlip does on the driver's side).

If you're seeing the camber (only setting that could conceivably do so) affect the seating of the axle in the trans, you've got bigger issues than not understanding how the driveline is set up.

 

Sorry man my camera really sucks, the chamber was actually ok on the read out, -.4 degrees. The toe was 1.72 degrees to the left off on the axle that was messed up. But anywho A. should i keep a close eye on this. i'm thinking yes. B. Could this cause that front wheel to lock up? C. I could not even guess how this could happen and is there a solution? new axle or maybe some bearings. when i was under it seemed like it could be pretty easily taken off other than packing some new bearings. the part of the axle that was different was the inner part, end that is connected to the transmission.

 

Can anyone inform me as to where the distributor cap is in 96 GXE. I want to clean my engine bay but need to cover that, so as to prevent it from damaging.

 

There are no spark plug wires. There is no distributor cap. There is no distributor.

Plugged on to each of the spark plugs is a "coil pack". It is an ignition coil that creates a spark for the spark plug that it is installed on, therefore you have 6 coil packs. The ECU determines when a coil pack needs to create a spark and sends it a signal to do so.