Where can i find a new charcoal canister online?
do i need to buy the canister valve with the new canister?

thanks

 

seriously???

ebay or www.courtesyparts.com

 

Need 2 drop my car 1 inch in tha front only, but don't wanna pay 1000 for coilovers... wats my best option with good ride and handle??

 

Hey guys, this site has been a great help to me keeping my mother's '95 Maxima 6 cly running smoothly. So far I have replaced all 4 window regulator/motors, front and rear brakes, r&r'd the alternator and I'm about to give it a tune-up. I would say I've saved her over 1K on labor over the last year, and for that I'm grateful.

Current problem is I have to "tweak" the key to get it to start, and although I have already searched and found a great tutorial on replacing the ignition switch, which I plan to do ASAP, I want to make sure of something.

Yesterday it cranked and cranked but would not start. Strong smell of gas, just no fire. I let it sit overnight and the next morning she started right up with a strong, rich smell. It will occasionally stall as well, and seems to have lost some of it's pep which I'm assuming the tune-up will fix. OK, finally my question...

My local Firestone guy says that beyond the "tweaking" the ignition switch may also be causing the no-fire issue as it "tells" the comp to fire upon turning the key. I just wanted to make sure that is true. Will merely changing the ignition switch help with the non-start issues, or is he just blowing smoke up my *** because he couldn't figure anything else out? It was a n/c diag BTW. TIA.

 

I think you got what you paid for. You paid nothing and received nothing of value.

Replacing the ignition switch will cure the need to "tweak" the key. Not fully understanding (hell, not at all) what this "tweaking" gets around, the ignition switch is a cause of the engine not cranking over. The engine cranking and not starting combined with the smell of gas is something else.

There are a host of possibilities for the gas smell. Bad fuel pressure regulators, bad fuel injectors, bad sensors (intake air temp, water temp, MAF),maybe even bad crankshft and/or camshaft sensors. This will take some diagnostic effort to resolve.

When you can get the car running, take it to an auto parts store and ask them to "read the codes" from the ECU. They will do that for free. Unless you live in Calif where Jerry Brown has made that illegal. Anyway, do that and let us know.

 

Thanks. That's what i figured. Car started up this morning and continues to start and run. The non-firing/gas smell and stalling just started recently. I'm going to change the plugs 1st - hasn't been done since '94 or so. Any advice on other standard tune-up procedure (besides air/fuel filters) would be appreciated.

Took it to local garage and got codes P0150 (0303), P0130 (0503) - Both 02 sensors showing fault. Also P0325 (0304) Knock sensor fault. (I used your A32 CEL Decoder and "Check Eng Light" thread for this info - Thx again!)

Pardon the ignorance, but do these sensors aid in performance, or just indicate that certain maintenance is required? I search a bunch of threads where people were checking/replacing sensors, but had no mention of any other repairs. Also, is it worth the $90 - $100 for a the diagnostics at the local shop? Thanks again.

 

I need a new set of tires for my 98 max. I am on a strict budget. whats the best all season tire for the money. I dont want to spend a lot as i am still in school!

 

When you get a check engine light, it is an indication of a problem that needs to be repaired, not that some scheduled maintenance is due.

O2 sensors are what the ECU uses to determine if the fuel mixture is too rich or too lean. The ecu will adjust how much gas the fuel injectors squirt into the cylinder based on the feedback from the sensors. They are important. P0130 is bank 1 front sensor and P150 is bank 2 front sensor. Bank 1 is comprised of cylinders 1, 3, 5 along the firewall. Bank 2 is cylinders 2, 4, 6 along the radiator. If you follow the exhaust manifold away from the engine, the O2 sensor will be near where the manifold bolts to the exhaust pipe. I think on one side the sensor is in the exhaust manifold itself and the other side the O2 sensor is just after the exhaust manifold. If the engine is getting too much gas, this will cause the catalytic converter to plug up, requiring replacement. When the catalytic converter is beginning to have problems, it starts to emit an odor similiar to rotten eggs (carbon disulfide)

Go ahead and replace the plugs, but unless the plugs are really worn out and essentially not firing, I doubt if new plugs will solve the problem. And as for the knock sensor code, that will probably go away when the other problems get resolved.

Now for the most difficult of your questions. Should you spend $100 for a diagnostic? I wouldn't - or at least not yet. You don't need to throw $100 away to be told you have bad O2 sensors. You already know that. Take care of the known problems first and hopefully that will take care of things.

Asking questions on Maxima.org can be time consuming, but if time isn't critical, use us to save some money.

 

Understood. The 02 sensors are most likely the problem. I tried searching, but couldn't find a "Replace 02 sensors" thread. I did find the "Replace KS" thread. It looks like you are saying start with the 02's first and move on from there, correct? If you know of a guide/tutorial on replacing the 02 sensors, plz advise.

Car just passed AZ emissions about a month ago before these problems started. 02's and KS were first replaced back in 2004/05 @ 65K. Car now has around 108k.

It seems that with the bad 02 codes, the hard starting, stalling and rich mixture smell that they definitely need replacing. Lastly, the $100 diag would be applicable to the r&r of the 02's at the shop. Is it so hard of a job that I'd be better off letting them do it? I have r&r'd the alternator and though slow and tedious, I got it done no problem. Thanks once again, you guys are a godsend for us casual wrenchers!

 

i was on my way out of school to find that my taillights were left on. found out this part broke on the brake pedal http://www.courtesyparts.com/46512-s...784_1879_1885& already replaced it with duct tape and a penny but that's not what i'm concerned about

is there anything i should do regarding my battery, considering that my brake lights were left on for as long as 8 hours

 

I don't believe that a guide/tutorial is really needed. An O2 sensor is like a big bolt with a wire on it. Screw the old one out and unplug the connector then screw the new one in and plug in the connector. You may want to soak the threads in a penetrating oil (liqiud wrench, PB Blaster, WD40) first. Penetrating oil isn't as critical for people in the sunbelt as it is for those in the corrosion prone snowbelt. If you could do the alternator, you can do an O2 sensor.

O2 sensors replaced at 65K? And now you're getting O2 code again? Wow, that's very unusual. The knock sensor probably wasn't bad. The code was there and the shop replaced it. You will find references to "ghost codes" here in the org. A ghost code is one that shows up erroneously. The knock sensor is the worst one. It shows up with almost any other code. Thats why I said to ignore the knock sensor code for now.

I sort of answered this earlier. But if you don't feel comfortable doing this kind of stuff, then take it to a shop. Some of us get our jollies off smashing and bloodying our knuckles when the wrench slips off. Others prefer the comfort of their Lazy Boy recliner. If I knew that you couldn't chew gum and walk at the same time, then I would tell you to take the car to a shop. But you have taken the alternator off, so I think it's just that you're a bit apprehensive about doing something you haven't done before. I'm not trying to belittle you, I think you can replace the O2 sensors.

But I definitely won't push someone into doing something that they are not comfortable with, even if I think they can.

 

All you need to do is get the battery fully charged again. Assuming that the battery still can start the car, all you need to do is drive it for an hour or so and the alternator will recharge the battery.

 

I"ll keep this short. It seems I'm getting "awards" for long windedness and second guessing etc! I am a noob, after all.

1) I checked the insane records my mother keeps and it looks like I received some erroneous info. It seems only 1 front 02 sensor was replace way, way back in '98 @ 46.7k. I'll be replacing both ASAP and will then check for the KS error code.

2) I had no idea the 02 sensor r&r's were so easy. I'll have no prob handling the job.

3) Thanks!

 

ah thanks. and yea i've heard of people getting stranded due to leaving their headlights on, so i was really apprehensive when i turned the key. thankfully it started and i was able to get home safely

 

Got the P1447 code (EVAP leak), looking through the existing posts, most everyone has had either replace the valve or the canister itself. My question is whether the 'water separator' hanging off the back being broken would cause this code and if so, where can I order one from (can't locate online yet). My water separator (if that is its real name, parts guy at Nissan wasn't sure) is broken and the bottom part is gone. Is this most likely a piece I'll have to find in a junkyard?

From my 4th Gen Maxima


From a 'good' Maxima, 4th GEN I found in the parking lot

 

One last question. I picked up the 2 front 02 sensors @ Autozone for $163 and change total. Bosche #'s 13228 & 13242. Searched the site and couldn't determine which is which. If you could advise which one goes on the RH passenger side, and which one goes on the LH driver side per the below diagram, it would be much appreciated. "The longer one goes on the x side" will do just fine.

 

What's up org...i once explained i had a problem with my max rpm's drop to engine shutting off...i live in a hot & humid area and i notice it only does it in the afternoon/evening its very hot out but i never have a problem in the morning when its slightly cooler...

 

Had a tiny lil project to do today, took about 45mins to do and both parts only cost me $25 total. Better acceleration , next is the front o2 sensors

 

If I remember correctly, the shorter wire is used on the front (radiator side) sensor.

 

I replaced the 2 front 02 sensors and had the codes cleared. Car is running much better! If the KS really is bad, how long until the check engine light comes back on? 108k, and the KS has never been replaced. The guy at the shop told me there are 2 knock sensors???

FYI: On the '95, the shorter wire was on the rear sensor.

 

I just replaced my KS, harness and cleaned the ground point today during lunch (working from home is awesome) and put about 50 ~ 60 miles on the car after work. Using my scanner, I watched my ignition advance to make sure my ecu wasn't still reverting to the "safe" map. The scanner now says all but the EGR system is ready for an odb-ii inspection. It won't take you long to know if the sensor or the harness really needs to be replaced.

I had 149k on mine.

 

There's only one KS. The generic OBD-II code description for P0325 is for KS bank 1, which is what likely made them think that there are multiple.

A KS code will never trip the CEL, it's a ghost code. The only way you'll see it is if you pull the codes manually, it'll never make itself known through the CEL.

 

Good call. I always forget that part. KS is single trip logic right? I've become too dependant on the scanner it seems.

 

Yep. Well, the '97-99 FSMs specify one-trip detection, 95/96 don't, but I'd assume so.

Then again, as lax as the '95 ECU is, you're lucky to get a code for something that's missing, much less not working properly.

 

I have been looking for a good after market tail light thats black. i drive a 97 maxima GXE. I do not want the altezza's I think they look way to riced out. I am going for a more stock look. if anyone knows anywhere please let me know. I do know about the pray on stuff you can buy. I was hoping for a actual tail light assembly.

 

Hello maxima.org members,

Just picked up a 96 maxima se 5sp last week and she's awesome. I noticed that I have stock fog lights but no way to turn them on. I want to turn them on! Changing the ECTS tomorrow and would really like to end that with some fogs that I can turn on. Any help would be appreciated.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-j9MN...el_video_title

What do you mean no way to turn them on? There's no fog switch on the headlight stalk?

 

Nope. Nothing visible anyways. Twist only works for parking lights and regular lights, push/pull for brights, and up/down for signal. If there's a secret handshake to turn them on please tell me.

 

My guess would be that the car did not come with fog lights orginally and the previous owner added them on but didn't get the necessary switch. You will have to get a light switch stalk (new or junkyard, your choice) and out it on.

Out of curosity, did you check if the light bulbs in the fog lamps are good? I'm wondering if the prev owner has them wired to be on all the time.

 

I have a 99 Infiniti I30 with 176k and the service engine light is on and I took it to advanced auto to have them check the codes and 2 codes came up:

First code was P1320 Ignition signal primary

Second code was P0325 Knock sensor bank 1

I have read a little and it sounds like the knock sensor code is a "ghost code" which comes up with every other code but I've never heard of the ignition signal primary code. Any ideas The guy at advanced auto had no idea either. Thanks in advance for the help

 

I gotta put my asshat on for this one....found the switch lol

 

hey i could use some info to. i have a 1996 maxim SE change my air con compressor i added R-134a pag 100 refrigerant oil medium viscosity ,added it in to the port on the pump as the instructions called for with the R&R pump info installed the o-rings and hook up the hoses hand turned over the pump only and did not hook up clutch wire installed the belt .i ordered a receiver/dryer the instructions said to put the rest of the oil into the receiver.i called my auto part supplier they said my system takes 6 pounds of R134a that i needed 6.5 oz of oil. i was going to have a shop vac and charge the system but if i can rent the vac and gauges. i would like to do it my self this would be my first time.how long do i leave on the vac and you said to vac at 2 bars neg (from another thread) when i vac will it pull the oil out of the system,will i have to re charge the oil also ? when i charge the system what pressure do i use for the high and low on the gauges, do i run the Engine the hole time? how do i know when i have the right amount refrigerant (set the can on a bathroom scale ? or hang it from scale) if some one can give me the rundown do's/don'ts i would be appreciated. i would like to learn how it"s done thanks willbur

 

First, 6.5 pounds is absolutely ridiculous, not a passenger car in the world that takes that much. Spec is 1.4 pounds. Also, 8.5 ounces of oil for the entire system.

For evacuating, '2 bars negative' is extremely vague, this will change gauge to gauge. Evac for as long as you like, at least a half hour is best. After evac, let it sit for a bit and watch the gauges to be sure the system doesn't leak. If so, you need to find and fix it before continuing. With no refrigerant in the system, it shouldn't pull much oil, most of that will be sitting in the bottom of the compressor.

You don't charge based on pressures, you do it by weight. If you have a scale that's accurate down that low, then use it. Otherwise, you'll be using (assuming 12 oz cans) 1 full can, and the majority of a second. Yes, you'll need to have the engine running to suck in the refrigerant, and charge with the cans right side up; you don't want to liquid charge the low side.

You also have to account for the refrigerant that remains in the lines, both the charging line to the gauge set, and the gauges to the low side port.

 

I've been doing some reading about this 1320 code and it seems as though the coils are the most common problem of this code. I also read that people were replacing every coil and still getting the code and in that case it was the coil wiring harness.

About a year ago (or so) I was having some problems with the car running really rough and got it checked out and it ended up being one bad coil so I replaced it and it has run pretty good ever since. It stills idles a little low and rough, but other than that it runs good. Seeing as the car is not running rough like this now and I am getting the code it leads me to believe that its the coil harness. Any way to know if just one wire to an individual coil is bad or if its the entire harness that is bad? Any advice and/or input is greatly appreciated. I'm trying to get my fin in great running condition. Thanks.

 

It is most likely a coil, and not the wiring harness. There is no discrete 'coil wiring harness', all of the coil harness connectors run through the main engine harness. If there were a wire broken, (be it power, ground, or signal) you'd be down one cylinder with a noticeable misfire.

That being said, to check out the harness you'd have to check continuity on every signal wire from the coil back to the ECU under load. The most common spot for wire failure is where the engine harness passes around the right strut tower, there was a TSB about this. You can try shaking the harness there with the engine idling, see if it runs any different.

 

Thanks for the info. Do you suggest replacing all of the coils? If so is there a good "cheaper" brand I can buy either online or from an autoparts store.

 

If you can isolate the problem to specific ones, then only replace those.

I'm running on 3 from autozone, all replaced at different times. The oldest one is is pushing 3 years old, so I can't complain. I would stay away from the E-bay sets of 6 for $200, seems like everyone who buys those are replacing them a year later.

 

Got a cel after my brother filled up with walmart gas. Had three codes, two for the ects, and one knock. Figured it was bad gas so I added an octane booster but still had ects code. Changed ects, reset cel, and the engine does seem to run better. Problem is i just noticed that when idling it goes back and forth between 600 and 300 rpm. This did not happen before I changed the ects. What happened and what, if anything, can I do?

 

[quote=DennisMik;8191620]If you can isolate the problem to specific ones, then only replace those.

Ok thanks for the heads up. The one that I replaced about a year ago when the car was missing was from autozone and seems to be doing fine. Any way to narrow it down to which coil is bad?

 

I just wanted to tell everyone in the forum thanks for all the advice.. my check engine light is now off! and now i can focus on improving my car!!!
THANKS!