Hey, I know this may sound like a dumb question, and sound like such a noob at this, but how many fuel injectors do I need to buy in order to replace the system? I have a supercharger in my 98 maxima, and want to get bigger fuel injectors, so not sure what brand and how many I need.

 

6. Not tryna burst ur bubble but if u don't know that you probably need to learn a lot more about cars before u supercharge it. You could run into a lot of problems. Unless you have loads of money to spend on other people doing it for you. Check the forced induction section and read the stickies

http://forums.maxima.org/supercharged-turbocharged-38/

 

Agreed. Do you even know what cc injectors you think you need? and why? Upgrading injectors is not a must by any means. And do you know if you need side feed or top feed injectors? (I know the answer)

 

7 outta the flywheel. Ya checked the stock and it comes out way more. The stock flywheel is a lot thinner where the bolts go in. I'm thinking it's a bad part but Ultra Rev the spot I bought it from said there's no way. I'm scared if I bolt it up it could break off. Also the exedy clutch disk isn't fitting on the input shaft. I got another one and same problem. My old clutch is an exedy stage 1 and it comes off and on with no problem. Weird dam car!

 

I filed down the teeth on the clutch disk so now it fits. I'm going to have the guys at Aasco make me a flywheel. Not sure what's the deal with the fidanza one but time is of the essence.

 

Ok, I have some kind of electrical issue. I originally thought my alternator was dying, but leaning more towards a wiring issue. Battery is good at about 12.76volts. Had alternator checked in car at autoparts store, battery checked ok and charging system problem. I was told to check all the wires and terminals. I cleaned both terminals, the positive from the alternator, and the battery ground to the chassis and engine. I cleaned the ground points to the engine and chassis. I then checked voltages, with 12.76V at battery with the car off and 12.76V. I found about 14V at the battery with the car on and the same at the alternator. I had the same auto parts store retest the alternator today, and again got good battery and apparently no output from the alternator according to their machine. The guy thinks it is not the alternator, but more likely somewhere in the wiring.

Here is what it does. I start the car and it starts normally, but sounds a little bogged down. Car drives fine and never dies, always starts on first try. Gauges remain off, along with odometer, cruise control and the SES light (which stays on all the time, due to O2 sensor prob.) is half-way dim. If I drive to 5-10 mins, usually the gauges will come on, but as soon as I press the button on the dash for cruise control, or turn on my blinker, the gauges and odometer shut off. They usually come back on a few seconds after I turn them off. I have checked EVERY fuse under dash and hood. But, headlights work both high and low, radio/clock works, brake lights work, and hazard lights work. I checked all the bulbs and not a single one is burnt out. Also, when the guages are not on, the power windows don't work.

I am lost on this one. It has lasted over a week, so I am thinking its not the alternator, cause the battery would surely be dead by now. I don't understand why the hazards work, but turn signals don't. Any help or pointers is appreaciated.

HELP
Terrance
98 Max SE Auto
160k

 

Hey, I need to replace an engine bearing(wether it's a journal or rod bearing is yet to be seen)anyway I was thinking of droping the bottom end of the engine with it still in the vehicle. Anyone ever tried? It's a 99'. just curious

 

here is what happened i swapped my motor out of a 95 maxima still used a stock motor nothing diffrent wired it up and ready to go put the key in and it doesnt do anything no click doesnt even attempted to turn over and when i take the key out of the ignition the gauge lights stay on (battery,check engine,airbag ect) stay lit till i pull the battery cable so i know i must have done something wrong guessing there must be constant power to the gauges for the lights to stay lit.my question is what do you think i did wrong?or maybe someone has a good engine wiring diagram?maybe i missed something. any help would be appricated thank you

 

You need to say what year maxima you have, in case there are wiring differences between years.

 

its a 95

 

alright this is my first post and ive been a maxima owner for as long as i can remember driving. however i have never had this problem or even know what to do except remove a bolt and see if it comes off. anyway here it is. one of my belts broke, which lead to the other one breaking not to long after as i was trying to turn the wheels to get on dry ground to take a look. then it jerked and shut off. now the pulley (blue thing pictured below) is broken. as in still in tact just not connected to the innerside of it. meaning the inside will spin but it wont move the belt or the grooved side. how do i replace it? just remove that bolt? thanks in advance for what might be a retarded ?

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...r1964/WP29.jpg

 

alright crankshaft pulley is what it is. haha such a retard. anyway i looked it up the haynes and know how to do it. problem is, where do i buy a new one? i guess i could pop off the one on my 99 since it has a bad tranny now

 

Im trying to understand why people like KYB suspension parts so much. im lookin to lower my 99 max and was told Tien was superior. i cant find any threads that would help explain this. can you help?

 

If the pulley spinning on center how come you think it is it broken? I'm not familiar with aftermarket pulleys. If it is spinning but the belt isn't then the belt most likely is bad. Is it squealing? Look into it more and post again

 

90% of the info u need is here:
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...n-updated.html

the rest is here:

http://forums.maxima.org/advanced-su...ics-links.html

http://forums.maxima.org/advanced-su...is-braking-68/

SEARCH FTW!

 

Got a quick question, im fairly sure this is an appripriate option but i figured id get a 3rd oppinon... Well here goes.

I got an O2 reading from 50 mA to 700 mA.... at idle. Shes reading ultra Lean and DUMPING fuel into the front 3. I just recently got a P0134 and i know the sensors been going for quite some time.... anyways. I was thinking of unplugging it to allow the ECM to just pull timing and set it to the fail safe tables and mabey get better than the 10 to the gallon im getting currently..

lemme know what you guys think, thanks.

 

Thanks...but i sourced one local for pretty cheap.

PITA of a job (compared to the old american muscle im used to - still easier than anything german)....but its done and shes running great!

 

Is 0w20 Mobil one synthetic good oil for our cars, or any other?

Cause my local walmart has 0w20 mobil one synthetic on clearance for $3 a quart.

 

Not sure if you wanna put oil that thin in your car if you live in GA.

Read this:

http://forums.maxima.org/fluids-lubr...viscosity.html

 

i used to do this to test an alternator...start the car, and with the car running, remove the neg battery terminal. if the car dies, then the alternator is bad. if it stays on, then it is good.

but it doesnt sound like an alternator. when the lights shut off on the dash, do they fade off, or is it immediately off? it sounds like u have a bad ground somewhere. perhaps to one of ur fuse boxes? im just throwin ideas out there. hope it works

 

I actually just got finished taking the motor all apart and putting it together. If it's a rod bearing then you can do it with the crank in the car after removing the subframe and downpipe. If you have to replace a main bearing you will have to drop the tranny, remove the alternator, a/c compressor, power steering pump, front motor mount, timing cover, both belt tensioners, disconnect timing chain, crank pulley, and oil pump. I think you may still have to remove the upper intake manifold as well. It took me 6 or 7 hours to get to all that and take the timing system apart. Bad news is that you won't be able to change them all without moving the crank and screwing up the timing, so take out the plugs and stick a dowel rod in cylinder 1 when it's at top dead center. Mark the dowel when number one is at top dead center so you can find it again.

 

BUMP

Got a quick question, im fairly sure this is an appripriate option but i figured id get a 3rd oppinon... Well here goes.

I got an O2 reading from 50 mA to 700 mA.... at idle. Shes reading ultra Lean and DUMPING fuel into the front 3. I just recently got a P0134 and i know the sensors been going for quite some time.... anyways. I was thinking of unplugging it to allow the ECM to just pull timing and set it to the fail safe tables and mabey get better than the 10 to the gallon im getting currently..

lemme know what you guys think, thanks.

 

I've got another question for you guys about the motor swap I'm going to do in a couple days. The last time I had the motor out, I took it all apart before giving in and renting an engine hoist to pull the block out. When I put it in, I lifted the front of the car about 3 or 4 feet with the hoist and slid everything including subframe and exhaust under the car, then lowered the car onto the motor. Both of those methods were big headaches without the aid of a lift. I was wondering if it were possible or worth the effort to just remove the front end and slide it in from the front. It doesn't seem like it would take long. headlights, bumper, radiator, fans, and core support. I'm assuming since when I did a search that everybody was lifting the front of the car that it was the best way, but I'm trying to think a little out of the box here.

 

I am pretty sure I found the problem. The ignition relay that powers the windows, locks, gauges, turn signals, and hazards was only putting through 1.5volts. Everything at the fuse panel that was a different ignition relay was putting out the full 12Volts. I swapped with the ignition relay above it and everything started working fine. I did notice on the power diagrams from the fsm that the same ignition relay that was bad, controls ignition signal to the alternator. Could this have been the reason that my charging system failed tests from the auto-parts store? I am going to buy a new relay today and drive it around to make sure there are no other symptoms. I am gonna get the charging system retested next week, just to make sure there isn't still a problem there. I will test the parasitic drain today after I get the relay.

 

We had the same deal when I worked at my local wal-mart. We clearanced it because no one uses it. I only had one guy that bought some and he used it in his race car. I don't think any factory cars use that weight.

 

possible dangerous advise.

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ne-starts.html

 

No parts stores have the relay in stock, so I have to wait till Wednesday morning. I am thinking about swapping in the blower motor relay, which has the same part number.

Anyone know if I drive with no blower motor relay, will I damage anything or just have no blower and no AC.

Need an answer before work tomorrow.

 

hey guys,

Is it cool to buy a left side fron axle off of ebay? is quality good? experience?

I am plannning to buy the left axle off of ebay and have this independent mechanic install it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...Q5fAccessories

 

id say yes it does if it doesnt get 12v.

 

ok im new here,,,i just bought a 1996 maxima 5 speed 82000 miles. I have p0325 p0136 p0443. thats knock sensor, o2 sensor, purge valve. What should i change first. I bought new plugs and coil packs.. installed new plugs, didn't install the coil packs because i broke one of them, and the car runs fine just has those codes. So where to start on those?.And last when i got my plugs they said they were ngk platinum but they were only 2.99 a piece ...are they the right plugs? thank you

 

if it does it when you turn then it is your power steering belt, otherwise it's your main belt. check the belt and the tensioner. if the belt looks okay increase the tension a bit.

 

Anyone know what the ashtray bulb is?

 

It's the bulb that sits right behind the ashtray to illuminate it. What else would an ashtray bulb be?

 

The part number I have is NGK PFR5G-11. They are 10 bucks a piece at oreilly. I believe those are the correct ones that Nissan calls for.

 

So what's the verdict? I'm planning on starting this project tonight or early tomorrow morning.

 

I think he means what style.....1157, 1156 etc etc.

No owner's manual Watson?

 

Well between my chilton's, and my factory shop manual I could only find an endless amount of interior lighting wiring diagrams and that it is a 10 amp bulb. Looks like he might have to ash out the window or get a minimag.
I just went ahead and used the search button. http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-controls.html

"For those who would be looking for a standard bulb for your climate control, hazard light, rear defroster buttons, and ash tray light. (I'm sure these bulbs are used in other areas that I have not had to replace yet) I went to www.mcmaster.com. I ordered trade number bulb #7219. McMaster part#1505K414, 10 bulbs for $9. No need for resistors just install and go. Also since you destroy the little blue color silicone covers on the original bulbs I ordered colored light bulb covers McMaster part# 16925K11. 10 covers for $4. I ordered the blue but they also come in amber, green, red, and yellow. I just cut the length to what the bulb was that protruding out of the socket. I am more than satisfied to have all my lights working again."

 

I have a 1999 GLE. For the past two days, I've been having some odd electrical issues. Mechanically, I don't detect any issues.

The turn signals work only intermittently. Even when I can't signal turns, the lights do flash when I lock the car via the remote.

When the turn signals do not work, the windshield wipers and power windows are sluggish. When the turn signals do work, the wipers and windows are fine.

While I was driving, the ABS and TCS lights went on. On the same trip, the airbag and seatbelt lights flashed, then went solid on, then went off, then went on again. The next day when I started the car, the lights did not come on at all.

I'd very much appreciate any help, including pointing me to an old thread I didn't find when I searched.

S

 

I have a 1999 Maxima SE-L and some of the lights on the dash are not working. I'm not sure which fuse needs to be replaced or if I even need to replace a fuse at all and the bulb is just out for it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Pictures below on imageshack

http://img547.imageshack.us/img547/9273/025.jpg

http://img243.imageshack.us/img243/2254/027eb.jpg

 

I am going to start out by saying that I have never screwed around with the electrical of the 4th gen maximas, and all this is coming from my shop manual. The flashers for your remote are coming from an entirely different fuse than that of your turn signals. It operates through the hazard fuse. So unless your hazards aren't working the flash from the remote should still be there.
If you give me your e-mail I can send some of the wiring diagrams and diagnosis steps to you. From what I could figure out, you could have a grounding problem, but the hazards and the turn signals use the same body grounds. You could have a loose ground or a short between the combination flasher unit terminal, combination meter, turn signal switch.
The ABS and TCM both run from the same control module. From what I'm seeing with that, There is only one fuse between the control module and ECM. It runs directly to the ECM, so it could be throwing those codes because of a weak battery (less than 10.5V) a bad control module, an open circuit, bad ground or your ECM is having a moment. There is pages and pages of this crap, so I'm just translating the readers digest version.