If the engine is missing at idle, then you can unplug the wire harness connector that goes to the coil pack. When you unplug the wire, the coil won't fire, so tthat cylinder will cause a miss. If the engine runs worse when the wire is unplugged, that coil and cylinder ar working ok. If you unplug the wire and there is no change to how the engine runs, you have found the problem coil/cylinder.

 

hi i am new to the maxima world and need help finding a maxima se manual transmission near chicago, can someone help me please?

 

The car isn't missing at idle, but it's still getting the 1320 error code (which is ignition signal primary) and I've read that the most common cause is a bad coil, but the car isn't missing that why I didn't think it was a bad coil. But I guess it could be a coil going bad, but isn't bad enough to make it miss. That's why I was wondering if there was a way to check the coils individually to see if one is not getting/giving enough power to that cylinder. That way I can narrow it down to a bad coil and change that one to see if it will get rid of the error code.

 

Try looking in our parts for sale thread. AND please don't be posting the same thing in 2 forums, we don't like that.

http://forums.maxima.org/parts-sale-wanted-41/

 

Hey all, how can I tell if my shocks are bad?

 

I should have re-read your original post so I wouldn't have made that last useless post.

What you can do is measure the resistance of the coil pack. You have to unplug the wire harness connector to do this. You could do this without removing the coil pack from the engine, but the 3 along the firewall would be very difficult to do without removing them.

There are 3 pins in the coil pack: + G IB

+ is the red wire in the connector (12 volts)
G is the black wire in the connector (ground)
IB is a colored wire in the connector, different for each coil, from the ECU.

measuring between the + and G connections:
positive lead on + reads open (or infinity)
positive lead on G reads 7.7 megaohms

measuring between the G and IB connections:
reads 1.5 kilohms (polarity doesn't matter).

measuring between the + and IB connections:
positive lead on + reads open (or infinity)
positive lead on IB reads 7.7 megaohms

Yours may be a little different, the brand and age makes one set different from another. But the most important thing is that they are all pretty close to one another.

 

Thanks for taking the time to explain all this to me so that I can check and see if my coils are going bad. I understand everything you're saying on how to check, but what to you check these with? My electric skills aren't exactly that great. I can do just about everything else on the car, but electric work is my bug a boo haha. Also no worries about the useless post. I forget to read stuff posted before all the time. Thanks again for the helpful info and your time. It is much appreciated.

 

never mind about what to read the ohms with. It's just a multimeter correct? I'm an idiot sometimes.

 

Yes. Several names for the same thing - multimeter, dvm, vom.

I think its very advisable to invest in a multimeter. There are many situations that you will need one for working on a car. You can get cheap ones for as little as $5 but those things won't last that long. If you go $15 - $20, you'll have something that will last.

 

Ok thanks. I'll definitely be investing in one. I usually use my dads, but seeing as I moved out of state I should probably just go ahead and invest in one that way I'll have it when ever I need it. I'll be testing the coils in the next few weeks and hopefully I find the problem. Thanks again for everyone's help, time, and effort they have put in to this situation to help me out. I can't believe I waited until now to join this thread and actually do some searching around to fix my FIN. It really is a great car and I'm trying to keep it running in tip top shape for as long as possible.

 

Hi, I have a 1997 Nissan Maxima GLE, I believe it's fully loaded since it has all the leather seats, sunroof, heated mirrors and seats, the Bose sound system.

But that brings me to my question, the back Bose speakers just simply don't work and i'm not sure what's wrong, and the right door speaker cuts in and out (I have to press on the head unit for it to start working)

So I was wondering if anyonelse had this problem or what it could be, I'm not sure if the speakers themselves are bad or if it's just the wiring. But I'm thinking about just replacing all the speakers, any suggestions or ideas would be nice.

And, if anyone could provide me with this information, what are the speakers sizes for the door speakers and the back speakers if I have the Bose system?

I've already searched on the forums and the stickies and nothing I could find pertained towards the Bose sound system, thanks for any help you guys provide me, and this is my first post and I'm a proud recent maxima owner.

 

I read through the first 50 pages quickly and didn't see anything about my problem.
I have a 95 Maxima. Recently swapped older motor for a newer one with a bit over 79K on it. I have a generic set of exhaust headers and a Y-Pipe on it, with what I believe to be the base exhaust diameter size of 2.25" but the Y-Pipe opens up to 2.5". I have no CATs because they were all clogged and didn't have one installed when I had the remaining part of the exhaust, after the Y-Pipe, installed. The muffler is a short Flowmaster 40 Series, approximately 14". The mechanic and shop manager chose the tip. It is about 8 inches long and 3.5" in diameter.
My problem is that is is extremely loud on cold start (obviously). Also on take off it is even louder. When idling it sounds like a 60s Mustang, but very raspy and annoyingly loud when traveling.
Any suggestions to quiet it down without out having to break bank?

 

I just completed finished removing and cleaning the egr tube using the photos and directions on another thread on this site. It was completely blocked. My only problem is now my car is idling weird. When slowing down my rpms drop and it almost stalls. Anyone have any suggestions or experience this same issue. No idling problems when I started this project. I tried removing battery cables over night but that didn't help. Thanks

 

did u reuse old gaskets. Check for vacuum leaks.

 

Buy a resonator and a different muffler. The resonator will eliminate the rasp. But the loudness comes from the flowmaster 40. Thats a pretty loud muffler no matter how u slice it.

 

BOSE head unit will only work with bose speakers. If u gonna replace the speakers, and keep the bose HU, u will need to get bose speakers from courtesyparts.com.



ANd when u SEARCHED u shd have found LOTS of info on BOSE. U are not the first person to have this issue.

 

Yes, I reused old gaskets. I'll check that. Thanks

 

True. The Flowmaster was intended originally for my car with CATs, but I pulled a Newbie move and did it without the CATs. (Had to be removed anyway)
My issue is that I still want a high flow exhaust, but without going to the extreme of having it as loud as it is. Is there any brand and model you would recommend, or would I have to save up to get a complete exhaust system, CATs and all?
Would just adding a CAT and resonator while leaving the current muffler help enough you think?

 

Adding a resonator and CAT will DEF quiet things down. But with that muffler u will still get some noise. Shdnt be annoyingly loud tho.

I have a $20 straight through bullet muffler i got from ebay. Rest of the exhaust is stock. Its good flow, no low end loss, nice deep bass. I like it
http://s739.photobucket.com/albums/x...t=MOV01013.mp4

 

How much should i pay for 99 maxima se with 137k mi?

 

Im new here and I own a 95 maxima. I have a problem where the check engine light is on and the car idles high. Hoping that someone can tell me what the problem is and if its a easy fix or do I have to send it to a mechanic. I was wondering if anyone knows a place in Des Moines,IA where I can check it out.

 

Hi guys, just bought a 5-speed 97 Maxima with 150K miles. My problem is that when I try to shift into first gear, it almost always grinds. It will do this when I am moving slowly (<5mph) or if I am at a complete stop. I also sometimes have trouble shifting into reverse while stopped. If I shift into a few other gears, sometimes it will go into either first or reverse without grinding. So, that's problem #1. #2 might be related. When driving in any gear, the clutch slips. If i give it much gas, the engine will rev up without much of an increase in speed. This is with the clutch completely let out.

I have driven manuals for over 15 years, but luckily never had any problems with them other than a slipping clutch that I quickly had replaced. What do you guys think? Both clutch and the first gear synchro, or just the clutch? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Mike

 

Since you have the check engine light on, take it to an auto parts store and ask them to read the trouble codes. Most parts stores do this as a no charge service. Knowing what the trouble code is can help us zero in on the cause of your problem. Otherwise it's a shotgun approach - try this, try that, thry this try that.

 

Given the issues shifting into both first and reverse, I would first go for a clutch that isn't fully disengaging.

If you pump the pedal several times before trying to shift into first/reverse, is it easier? First place to look is fluid level, and check for leaks. They like to leak from the clutch line down where the hard line meets the hose by the trans. You'll also want to check for leakage at the backside of the master, and underneath the boot on the slave.

If the fluid level is down, you can just fill and bleed to make it better until you're replacing the clutch. While you're doing the clutch, replace the leaking components, and I would also get a stainless steel clutch line to replace the factory maze that goes from master to slave. This will not only make it easier to bleed, but also improve the feel.

Another thought, you should also check the clutch pedal itself for wear where the clevis pin connects the pedal and pushrod for the master; I've seen a few of these wear right into the pedal, preventing full disengagement. If this is the case, the pedal itself is ~$50 from the dealer, or you can just have it repaired with a quick bead of weld.

 

Thanks for the fast reply.
#1: Is the bleed valve attached to the slave cylinder? I hear everyone talking about that part, but my Haynes guide doesn't say anything about it, only the master. Also, I remember reading about a bleed valve next to the strut tower. What is that one connected to, an would I get any benefit from bleeding that one?

#2: Anyone know about the OEM security system that came with these cars? I have a sticker in my window, and it says "transponder Security System" (TSS) with an 800 number. I didn't get a FOB with the car, and sometimes the alarm (car horn) randomly goes off when opening the door after unlocking it. It's got the blinking light in the button slot on the dash. Does this sound like an OEM system to you guys? I just thought I'd ask if it sounds familiar to you guys. I just wanted to know so I could just get an OEM fob, or if it's aftermarket, I'm gonna replace it.

PS~ I bled from the valve on the tranny, and now the clutch stopped slipping, and seems to go into first gear a little easier. Still chatters sometimes, but nowhere nearly as bad as before.

Thanks again all, and hopefully soon I'll be up to speed on Maximas, so I can help other noobs, haha.
Mike

 

There is one directly on the slave, and one on the left strut tower, by the airbox. The FSM specifies bleeding the lower first, then the upper. This is why I suggest the SS clutch line, it eliminates the whole mess of OE pipng and the dual bleeder setup, leaving just the bleeder at the slave.

It's not the OEM system, no. Good luck on find a compatible remote, aftermarket systems can be a major pain in finding just the right one. Personally I would probably rip it all out and either go OEM, or put in a remote starter. OEM because it just plain works, or the remote starter for, obviously, the remote start functionality, but also for the ability to choose a reliable unit and make sure it's installed correctly.

 

Good day, I have searched the forums but did not find an answer.

I had to take out the TB on my 96 I30 to replace the FPR and TB gasket. I remember there was a "stop screw" on the top of the TB that is missing now. Here is a picture from a different thread of the screw with a red X. Is it something crucial?

Currently my idle is fluctuating a bit when the screw was there and still doing the same thing without the stop screw. TIA.

 

Okay, just a few more questions...
I just replaced the master cylinder, and the slave today. No one had any of the rubber hoses in stock that go from the box thingy to the slave, so I might get that in a few days, if these don;t fix my problem. What I am wondering, is where does the hose from the master lead into? It's a real mess in there, and I can't tell where they are going. does it go to a splitter and one end goes to the bleeder valve up on the strut tower, and another to the box thing (sorry I can't be more descriptive on that), and then through the rubber hose and into the slave? I really wish there was a diagram. If there is, someone please let me know. It would just help me understand this system a little better...
Thanks again,
Mike

PS~ THe master was a real bugger to get out and the new one in! Thanks Nissan for making that so easy on me... :-P

 

That is there to set the proper throttle plate position from the factory, the screw really shouldn't ever be adjusted.
From Courtesy, who takes the images out of FAST:


Yes, it goes through a maze up to a bleeder, and also down to the junction where it leads to the slave.

 

i had the code P1447 which SUCKS!!!!!!!! i replaced the charcoal canister in my 97 with one from a 99 (had to mod it a little) and my check engine light is still on could it be because the canister i put is newer? (my 97 was made before the California emissions)

 

Hi, I'm new to the maxima. I have a 1995 maxima se with automatic temp. control and I just replaced the evaporator and expansion valve. When I got the dash back in the car and everything pluged in and the system serviced I cranked the car and noticed the blower motor was on with the a/c control panel off. All of the doors in the a/c ducting are closing when it is switched off but the blower continues to run and it also will not change speeds. It still doesn't blow cold air but I believe that is because the guages and vacuum pump I used were not in the greatest shape and it didn't pull a very good vacuum. Any ideas? I'm lost!

 

The fan is always connected to 12 volts and is made to run by applying ground on the one wire (blue/white stripe). This is done by the "fan control amplifier" which is essentially a transistor. The amplifier is screwed into the evaporator case under the dash. If you measure the voltage between the blue/white stripe wire on the blower motor and ground, you will find that it probably is close to zero volts. I suspect you probably have a shorted transistor in the fan control amplifier causing your problem.

 

Hey guys, I'm trying to program my remote fob in my Maxima SE, it's got the security package and when I insert my key 6 times within 10 seconds I still don't get the flashing hazards. Is there anything else I need other than security to do this?

 

Hey folks, new guy here. '97 GXE lost the grille emblem while running down a bumpy gravel road. Ordered replacement which has two plastic pins that fit into holes on the front of grille. Any tricks to attaching this to the grille? I've always had trouble glueing plastics (ie replacement pins on my cup holder, if you are familiar with that issue), so Im wondering if there were clips on the back side of the grill that grabbed the plastic pins originally, and what have you guys done to connect the replacement to the grille if these clips were lost. Thanks in advance for help.

 

Here is the proceedure I use. Are you doing steps 1 & 2?

1. Unlock all doors and get in car.

2. Close and lock all doors with power door lock switch on driver's door.

3. Insert the igniton key and completely remove from the ignition switch
at least 6 times within 10 seconds. The hazard warning lamps (both turn
signals) will then flash twice and all previous codes will be cleared.

4. Turn ignition key to "ACC" position.

5. Push the "Lock" button on the new remote controller once. At this time,
the car learns the new ID code. The hazard warning lamps (both turn
signals) will then flash twice.

If this is the only/last remote you are programming, go to step 10.
If you need to activate additional remote controllers, continue with Step 6.

6. Manually unlock the driver's door only then lock again with door lock
****.

7. Push lock button on the additional remote controller once.

8. Hazard warning lamps (both turn signals) will then flash twice and
additional remote is programmed.

9. For additional remotes, go back to step 6.

10. When done, open the driver's door to exit programming state.


NOTE: A maximum of 4 remotes can be programmed to any ONE car.

 

I wasn't unlocking them first. I'll definitely try that! Thanks!

 

i checked the voltage like you said and you were exactly right. but im just a little confused with it. were you saying it should read zero volts when working normally or when its shorted? but anyway, thanks for the help!

 

Hello everyone. First off I am very Happy there is a site like this on the web. Read quite a few post and there is loads and loads of info on here. Thanks to all who contribute. I have 3 codes, First two are P0325, P1706. Knock Sensor and park neutral position. Both should very simple swap the bad part and move on. The Third I am lost, P1320, Ignition Signal not see on start up? It list a few different things to look at. If anyone can direct the first and best thing to check I would appreciate it. I believe in the KISS motto, Keep It Simple Stupid. Thanks in advance.

 

The voltage reading will vary based on how fast the blower motor is spinning, making it impossible to give you an exect number. When the fan is not spinning, you will read 12 volts. If the fan is spinning at it maximum, the voltage reading will be zero or very close to it. The fan motor amplifier acts as a variable switch to create the different fan speeds.

A voltage reading of zero says the fan should be spinning at maximum speed. If you have the dash control set to high speed, zero volts is perfectly normal. But if the dash control is set to off and you have zero volts, you have a problem. When I say shorted, I am referring to the fan control amplifier, specifically the transistor inside of it that is the main working part of the amplifier. The transistor is no longer able to turn the electricity on and off for the fan motor, it is always on.

The amplifier is most likely the problem, but as with anything, there can be more than one cause. The amplifier is a $125 part and electrical parts are not returnable, so we need to be sure. A junkyard part is a lot cheaper if you want to take the shotgun approach.

Lastly, a big caution - if you take the fan amplifier out of the air ducts, DO NOT run the fan for any length of time as the amplifier runs very hot and with out the airflow cooling it, it will burn itself up.

 

Thanks for all the help Dennis. Ill recheck the voltage again just to be sure because I don't remember if I had the switch set to off at the time or not. Then ill try to replace it if I can find a new one, if I can't find a new one ill try the salvage yard.