Yeah I looked around and the speakers are at least $40 each at every yard within 50 miles. If this really wont work I might have to buy a cheap amp and leech the signal from the speakers that way. When they guy I bought the car from was going through it I noticed some 4 gauge red power wire under the trunk lining so it may already be wired up. Like I said, I just bought the car and still need to look around some more. I just don't like to two huge holes in the deck of the car.

 

Well why dont you check around here you can usually find someone parting out a max or somewhat. Let me check something for you hold up ill get back to you.

 

I did post in some threads and texted one guy just no responses yet.

Well I wired up the speaker this morning and the bose system literally sends about 1W worth of power through. At full fade and almost max volume the speaker became audible but that signal wire is literally just a signal wire. Gonna have to either find someone willing to ship those bose speakers cheap or buy a cheap amp from amazon to go with my cheap speakers.

 

You do know that u can buy 6.5" subs right? jus get those and wire them up using the car's existing wires. Should sound straight and wouldnt hurt to try. Please leave feedback if u go this route as im curious as how well these will work. Make sure to check that they will work with low voltage signals.

OR,

Like the other member sd, jus hit the JY and pray you find some BOSE speakers in GOOD working condition.

 

If this is the case then u have to find the power wires for the BOSE. SOmething needs to power the speakers not jus the signal wires. Isnt the BOSE amp under the driver or pass seat. I cant remember

 

The amp was built in to the enclosure which is all gone. I'm getting a cheap eBay amp and line level converters and gonna run from the wiring that is there. I'll post up everything when I get it all done. Gonna cost right around $50 for everything shipped.

And once I get to where I can start threads I'll post up a little write up. This is just going to be a cheap way to run aftermarket speakers on stock head unit.

 

Yeah, this is the only other way if u want to still use the BOSE HU. You have to send those low volt signals to an external amp and then to the aftermarket speakers.

$50 for this setup is about right.

 

Yeah, I figured. All the pieces are about the cheapest available but like I said, just want to add a little bass and fill the holes. I can build a pretty decent box so we will see what happens.

 

K, problems with car, mechanic has said he thinks the engine mounts need to be fixed, $400-$500 job.

I just did the test described in this maxima.org post:

http://forums.maxima.org/7724474-post24.html

When I asked the mechanic why he thought the engine mounts needed replacing, he described the exact test in that post.

Thing is, when I do that test, the engine doesn't move at all in either 1st or reverse, until the clutch is almost all the way up. To where the car is going to stall if I let the clutch up a little more. At that point, the engine does move quite a bit. But, I'm watching it and thinking, "damn, that could be normal".

Is the engine supposed to move a good bit when the car is about to stall? Or, even if it moves at that point, does it mean problems with the engine mounts?

Knowledgable opinions really appreciated. And, if there's some somewhat authoritative reference describing the procedure available on the Internet that I could point to, I'd love that.

 

Finally got well enough to walk (surgery), and noticed that my temp. gauge stopped working. After several searches, I still haven't been able to locate where the coolant temp. switch is. Can somebody point out where it is? I have a '97 GLE automatic, btw. Thanks in advance.

 

You have to look to see if the eninge moves or if the actual mount is torn or worn looking. The engine shouldnt move much at all.

 

It's located forward of the ECTS on the coolant log.



I believe I point it out in this video here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-j9MN...CFVlNiflIFhBuS

 

Thanks for the info. I'll change it out today and see what happens. I saw the temp. gauge on the instrument cluster work once since I had the car. The heat works fine, so I don't think anything else is wrong.

 

I did look to see if the engine moves. That test I linked to, you turn the car on, pull up the emergency brake, put the car in 1st (or reverse) with the clutch pressed down. Then you start to release the clutch and you have someone else watching the motor to see if it moves.

The engine doesn't move at all until the clutch is released almost so much that the car is about to stall. At that point, the motor does move quite a bit.

But, the test I linked to doesn't say how far to release the clutch to do the test. Is it normal for the engine to move when the clutch is almost all the way released? Or, if it moves even there, that is indicative of bad mounts?

I'll Google around and see if I can figure out how to look at the mounts. I have no idea where they are. I'm hesitant to buy the Haynes manual because if I can't get the car fixed for a decent price, I'm getting rid of this car.

But for now, I'd really appreciate it if someone would comment on my observations of the test I did.

 

You said that the engine moved quite a bit. That means you have a bad motor mount. Having to let the clutch out to the point of stalling the engine is right as this is putting a lot of force on the mounts. It takes a lot of force to make the car move when you are driving. The only difference is that you don't want the car to start rolling during the test and that makes the engine stall.

 

Great, thank you Dennis. That the motor mounts (or at least one of them) are bad is actually good news. Because from driving the car I can tell there's something wrong with it, and knowing I've found what very well could be the main thing, that's actually a relief...

I probably will head down to Autozone tomorrow to see if I can look at a repair manual. I've been meaning to learn more about this stuff anyway.

Thanks Dennis!

 

I have some questions and been looking forever all over this fourm and found nothing that could help. I have a 1995 maxima 5speed and around 275.xxx. I bought it not running. I replace the starter, got six different coils(from junk yard), I have two computers, 3 cam sensor, 2 crank sensors, and new fuel filter. Now here it is. I got spark in four cylinders and gas in three. The gas is where there is spark as far as i know. My dad and i look everything over and everything checks out fine. CEL says code 41 which is crank sensor but that is new.
What else do i need to check?
What are somethings that need change?
Could timing be part of the problem?
All help is appreciate.
thanks Aaron

 

At some point, apparently after 2 ECUs, 3 cam sensors, 2 crank sensors, and a full set of coils...you need to step back, stop throwing parts at it, and try actually diagnosing the problem.

Did you get the service history from the prior owner?

Exactly which cylinders are not getting spark?

What do you mean 'as far as you know'? If you checked for fuel, you would know exactly which cylinders don't have it.

Code '41' (0401) indicates the IAT, not a CKPS. Where did you get your code definitions from?

 

We did all the diagnosing with a fluke meter. Everything came out to what specs say.

I have no history with car.

Cylinders 1, 5, and 6 have gas and spark. 2 has just gas. 3 has neither. 4 has spark.

It smell like gas on the end of the spark plug. Also they were wet.

My dad bought the Nissan online manual from Nissan themselves. I must of looked at it wrong.

 

No spark on 2 or 3, might as well stop what you're doing and pull the front cover. Chain has jumped, and chances are when you pull the inspection covers you'll see a brand new water pump and/or tensioner.

It could also be a harness problem affecting only ignition control on cylinders 2 and 3, and injector control on 3 and 4, but that's rather unlikely.

 

How much is it to do timing?

Is there any other way to check timing instead of tearing in apart?

I appetite all the help.

 

I don't believe you have the ability, no.

If you had the equipment/experience, you could scope the cam/crank sensor signals or compare compression readings bank to bank. You could also pull both valve covers and check cam lobe direction at a specified crank position (or try to check the position of the cam sensor signal lobes through the CPS hole in the front cover), but those last two may not be completely conclusive.

Your best bet is to just spend a half hour and pull the front cover.

 

Okay. I'm just going to pull the whole timing cover off and go from there.

 

So I just got a set of Ksport lowering springs and I was contemplating on whether I should get new struts too. Any help?

 

I have a 98 and my power steering has recently started leaking from 4 hoses. I was quoted 500 dollars to replace the necessary parts. I was wondering if there were any alternative steering racks that would make it possible for me to just pull out and eliminate the power steering, like most of the Honda guys do.

 

If they're OEM or old and worn out, yes.

No. If you feel that you're able to replace the rack, why can you not just replace the leaking parts?

 

I'm just entertaining different ideas. However maybe not changing the entire rack, I've heard of a sort of closed looped system with a breather.

 

Bought this car a few days ago for $600. Ran fine on the test drive. Never overheated or anything. On the drive home I noticed that the temp gauge never moved from cold so I pull over to check what was wrong. As I was slowing down the car stalled and was smoking. All the water leaked out the pump. Towed it home for safety, hoping I didn't mess anything up. Changed the water pump only took 8 hours (ugh). I let the car sit overnight and when I started it there was a slight tap that went away when the car stalled. Sometimes it will run fine and others it will sputter and smoke black out the tail pipe and spitting a black soot. If I get it up to 3k rpm and hold it for a few seconds it will stop and run fine for a while the either do the same thing again or just instantly kill

Here is what I have done (not saying it was the smartest thing to do)
Had a 1/4 tank of gas
Added half a can of seafoam (did nothing)
Put another half can of b12 injector cleaner in it. (car never wanted to start)
Added another 1/4 tank of gas and it started but continued to sputter and die

I don't think I got a bad deal on this car but it's starting to look like I will have a new motor with a 96 body and I really don't have the money to do that.

My question is why is it doing this?? Please help me

I also have have a knock in the front end when I ride over a bump in the road. I think it could be the ball joint but I'm not exactly sure. I really need the first question answered but any help will do thanks

 

Why remove the power steering? I don't understand that.

 

Check the coolant temp sensor, if it's reporting an extremely low value it can cause severe over-fueling as you describe. Also you want to make sure the cluster temp sensor is connected, otherwise the gauge will stay bottomed out.

As for the front end noise, just jack it up and shake it down. If you can't find anything obvious, the first thing I'd do is disconnect the sway bar end links and take it for a test drive, see if the noise is gone.

 

The guage moves now it was just that it didn't have any coolant. I just changed the coolant sensor. I know that parts can be defective when you get them, how do I check it a d what is it supposed to read?

 

Also I put mid grade gas. Don't know if that will do anything.

 

Mid grade gas should not be a problem. While the car should have premium, the ECU (car computer) will adjust the spark timing to compensate. Many people run regular in their cars.

A brand new part could be defective when you buy it. To test the temperature sensor, you measure the resistance (ohms) at known temperatures.

Here are some ECTS (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor) readings.
at 68 degrees - 2.1 - 2.9 K ohm
at 122 degrees - .68 - 1.0 K ohm
at 194 degrees - .236 - .260 K ohm

This info is from the 1996 FSM, section EC, page 128.

I don't know if you are aware that the engine has 2 temperature sensors. One is used only for the gauge on the dash board and the other, the ECTS, is used by the ECU for everything else.
The dash gauge sensor has one wire on it while the ECTS has two wires on it.

 

Ok. I just drive the car on about a 25 mile trip. About 20 miles into it started to lurch forward and stop. Then do it again. I put it in neutral and revved it a little then back in drive. It stopped but for only a few minutes. It did this at about 60mph and 40mph.

 

Exactly how does this cause over-fueling? My spark plugs were soaked in fuel and I want to know if this could be the reason. Inquiring minds want to know!

 

The jist of it is that the colder the engine is, the richer the fuel mixture it needs to run properly (to a point).

If it's reading a much lower temperature than the engine is at, it will be dumping more fuel than required, leading to running poorly and fouling out the plugs.

That being said, there could be any number of reasons why your plugs are soaked in fuel.

 

A couple other reasons... faulty injector(s) or bad FPR.

 

Ah, that makes sense. Thanks.

 

I was driving to work this morning and my Service engine soon light came on. When I looked down, I had just hit 193,500 miles. is there anything in particular that needs to be done?

 

Yeah, go to an AutoZone or whatever and get the code scanned, report back.

Aside from that, just regular tune up stuff around that mileage...check the maintenance schedule