When programming a remote fob for keyless entry, which lights am I looking at for a flash? The exterior hazard lamps right? So my blinkers essentially?

e: Also, I've been hearing that keyless entry comes with cars with the security package. Is this correct or is it purely security and convenience? I have an SE.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...hread-yet.html

 

Yo whatsup I was just wondering if anyone could help me with this. My power windows and locks recently stopped working (all 4) but sometimes they will just come back on and work and it all depends on whether or not the driver side is working. Also sometimes the lights will flicker on the doors when i try to use the window when it doesnt work.

I was thinking it's the window motor but im not positive, has anyone ever ran into this problem??

 

All 4 are not controlled by one motor. Check the fuses for the power doors. Also, maybe the wiring for the window switches in the driver's door panel is wonky. I'd check that first. Remove the door panel and take a look at the wiring, paying special attention for loose or frayed wires.

 

Chances are that the master window switch in the driver's door is bad.

 

Thanks for the feedback ill check the fuses and wires first, but is there anyway to tell whether or not the master window switch is bad?
Thanks

 

After you've checked the wiring and the connector for damage or loose pins, tap on the switch and see if your courtesy lights come on with the door open. If so, replace the switch.

If you have any electronics experience, you could also open it up and fix what is most likely just a cracked solder joint.

 

Actually now that I think about it.. my door light on the driver side doesn't even work, I overlooked it thinking the bulb blew or something but could that have something to do with the windows not working as well? Maybe the same thing that isn't working is effecting both of them?

 

...yes, the master window switch.

 

Ok. So if I go to check tomorrow and there aren't any loose wires, blown fuses or disconnected harness'.. that means it's Definitely the master window switch?

Just making sure.

 

Read the above post that specifically covers this. If you still have that question, read the post again.

 

Is there anything i should know when removing my stock steering wheel and airbag. I want to put in an aftermarket steering wheel, without the airbag. Will this set off anything since ill not be plugging it back in? I am looking for a how to removal process. i cant seem to find it specifically in the threads? Any help would be appreciated.

 

It will disable the SRS system, along with the obvious SRS light and codes in the module.

Remove two airbag bolts, remove airbag. Remove steering wheel nut, remove steering wheel. Shouldn't take more than a minute or two to do.

 

this is my first post, i just bought a 99 maxima se 2 weeks ago, i have some general maitenence i need to do to it but later on i plan on tinting my windows. ive been looking at llumar tint seeing it is the best recomended by people on here. but i know you have to get it installed so does anyone know how much it cost all together for the tint and installation? thanks in advanced!

 

Hello, Newbie here. Having a really hard time with my 99 Maxima. First of all I bought my Maxima from a family member around 1 year ago and just now got it out of the garage..long story short it needed a new ignition switch and mass air sensor. I went a got a inspection sticker and the mechanic told me that I needed new rear brakes soon. Drove the car for a few weeks and decided was time to change brakes before starting eating into the rotors. My husband and my father-in-law started changing the rear brakes. The right rear caliper did not want to let go and my husband not knowing exactly what he was doing (never worked on nissans before) took the entire caliper out. He took the emergency cable loose and the brake cable. Well after many hours finally figured out that the caliper piston screws back into the caliper and is not forced with c-clamp reattached the caliper. Unfortunately it was screwed the wrong way and the entire piston came out. We were able to get the piston back in. We bleed the brakes and my husband and father-in-law took the car for a drive, the rear right wheel locked up. They decided it was the emergency brake cable and took it loose. The wheel released but the brakes still felt spongy. (At this point we thought must be that the other side doesn't have new pads, we planned on changing them but after many hours just wanted to get the car home). Came back the next day and changed pads on other side. Didn't take brake cable off caliper but decided to bleed brakes anyway. Still have spongey brakes. Bleed the brakes over and over. Bleed them in the order RR, LF, LR, RF. Also backing up it seems to have great brakes. Going forward they will go to the floor slowly but if you pump the brakes they work. Also sitting still the initial press will slowly go to the floor and the following presses will gain in pressure. Not sure what to do next. NEED HELP PLEASE!!!! Also, since they unhooked the emergency brake cable on the RR caliper, they were going to hook the cable back to the lever on the caliper and it seems that someone has engaged the emergency brake and the cable is seized up and will not release to reach the lever to hook back up. I am being so thorough in my explanation of things because I'm hoping someone can diagnosis what is going wrong.

 

Always do both sides when replacing brakes. If the cables are really seized, find a way to disconnect the cable from the assembly. There are two ways to do that: disconnect the assembly where the 2 cables meet from the lever mechanism OR unscrew all brackets and bolts that hold the cables in place. Check the brakes system for leaks. Lines, valves, master cylinder, and pistons. Do the brake pistons leak? You might want to rebuild the seals if possible. The best way to bleed brakes is a pressurized bleeding. You will be pumping fluid from the bleed valves and uncover the reservoir.

 

I have my girls 96 GLE Maxima. I have just replaced the alternator and wrapped everything up. I started the car the first time and the battery light was on. I shut it off and checked all the connections. I than restarted the car and the light was off. I than turned the lights and radio on and let it run for a bit. after about 5 min the abs light came on and everything started to dim on the dash. I put in a aftermarket alpine in-dash tv and that shut off. I shut the car off and the battery was dead. Any Idea's? I put a new battery in it not to long but the battery tested low charge not bad. Would the battery being low cause the car to die?

 

If the battery is truly good (no internal short circuits), just being low on charge will not cause the car to die as long as the alternator is working.

It is apparent that the alternator is not working. Check that you have all the wires connected properly and tightly, especially the little 2 wire connector. If the connections are ok, then I think you got a bad alternator.

If you can get the car started, get a volt meter and check the voltage while the engine is running. The voltage should be reading around 14 volts.

 

Do a current draw test.http://youtu.be/KF1gijj03_0

 

Ok I fixed my power windows but now everytime I go to lock my car it automatically unlocks like 1 second later even if I manually lock it (not using the switch on the master window switch) anyone ever have this problem?

 

All locks?

 

Do you have the keys in the ignition with the door open when this happens? If so, that's how it should be.

 

His symptoms are not indicative of a parasitic draw, this testing would be a waste of time, unless the battery continues to die after fixing his charging system.

 

What's the first step of the current draw test? put a DMM in series with the battery. If it shows nothing, then you just spent a minute.

 

...but again, his symptoms are not indicative of a parasitic draw. How do you feel that they are?

There's no point in checking for a draw when the current issue is obviously one with the charging system.

FWIW, there's no need to break the circuit to do a parasitic draw test. Using an ammeter in series with the battery cable is more intrusive than necessary, and the results aren't always definitive.

 

could anyone tell me where to get window tint, also how much it would cost?

 

I will be changing the head gaskets soon on my own. Anything I should know before I start? I have the FSM instructions just wondering of there is anything else I should know

 

Ok so I found the problem. The clip on the plug that goes into the alternator is broken. If I press down on it just a little bit with a screw driver and I get 14 volts and if I let off of it it goes to 12 volts and drops. Any hints or tricks on getting it to stay there or should I just buy a new one cuz I tried calling a few bone yards and they said I would have to buy a whole harness.

 

What the junkyard said about the wire harness is true. But first we have to determine if the problem is the wire harness plug or the socket in the alternator.

All electrical connectors lock into the other part. Can you pull out the connector without pressing on the lock tab?

If no, remove the plug from the alternator and look at the pins in the connector. Are they in the plastic even with each other? Can you pull a wire out (don't use a lot of force, pound or so) of the connector? If no to these, the problem looks like the alternator.

If the connector pulled out of the alternator, is the lock clip on the wire harness connector broken? If no, the problem is in the alternator. Get another one.

You can look at the alternator socket with the wire harness unplugged and see if the contact pins are the same height. If one is lower, use a needle nose pliers and pull it up. Then press down on it (again, not a lot of force). If the pin pushes in, the alternor needs to be replaced.

 

It's def the lock clip. I can just tug on it a little bit and it comes out.

 

make sure that the wire harness connector is or is not the problem as the socket in the alternator could be damaged when the lock tab connects. If it is the wire harness, then see if you can find a damaged wire harness (should be less expensive) and get only the connector you need and solder it on. And I REALLY DO mean solder. The alternator is the same thing on all nissan products from 1995 through 2007.

 

Are there any shops in your area you can call and order from? You can always use the mighty google for window tint brands and prices. Ive even seen pre-cut tint packages on ebay, I wouldnt go down that route, but it is an option.

Shops where I live in Ottawa, Canada charge about $250 taxes in for tinting the entire car. If you have the extra cash id pay a shop to do it, unless you have lots of patience.

 

My daughter bought a 1999 maxima and it runs rough. I suspect part of the problem is this vacuum hose being disconnected. I just can't find anything anywhere that tells me where it goes?

 

hopefully i say this clearly the first time around =/ having a hard time figuring it out myself.

The problem i am currently having is:
When my gas tank gets lower and lower, my car tends to have a harder time picking up speed. I've never been in a car with a slipping transmission, but i think that the symptoms it gives are close to of that.

The RMPs would jump and drop 500 of where it should be, and picking up speeds gets painfully slow.

at a full tank, all is fine. at 3/4ths tank is when it starts acting up, and 1/2 of a tank i can hardly drive it 15-30 minutes. and the problem has been getting worse and worse. it use to be at 1/3th of a tank is when it would start acting up.

I haven't gotten it this low in a long time, but at 1/4 of a tank it would stall when i took turns (not driving crazy) The car sat for 3-4 years because my parents would not fix it, so they gave it to me when i got license.

The original owners did not take care of it, and my parents took some care of it, but not enough.

I've been using maxima org for trouble shoot and fix all my problems so far, but cant seem to find this one.

ALSO, As my gas tank gets emtier, my MPG drops. at a full tank i average 18-19 at 3/4 i start to average 13-14... any ideas?

The problem is just now starting to happen just before 3/4 of a tank.

 

That is the tranny breather hose that needs to be left open.

If the previous owner did not give you a list of maintenance care then I suggest you give it a tuneup. This How To's sticky thread will guide you in replacing or inspecting many of components that will cause a rough engine.

 

I am trying to change the head gaskets on my 96 but cant seem to get the power steering pump off. not sure how to go around to get to the bolt in the back. can anyone help?

 

The pivot bolt that you have to loosen to change the belt? Just use a wrench or a flex-head ratchet. I covered that in the PS belt video.

 

You've got stick your hand in there and reach around to it. I looked at the FSM and looked at a picture of the pump so I could have a better idea of what bolts I was feeling.

 

i just bought my 99 maxima se auto less than a month ago. im new to nissans so i didnt know if this was normal or not. OK so here is my concern.. sometimes when i start the car it goes up to 2000 rpm when first started then drops to a lower idle. but sometimes i notice after it does that it goes rite back up to like 2000 rpm. sometimes the needle even goes a tinny bit over it the 2000 rpm mark but not much. and it does it for like a decent amout of time around or sometimes more than 5 mins. then when i go to drive it i put it in gear and it like drives itself and shifts itself from first to second if im not stepping on the brake to slow it down. it sometimes even goes over 20 mph if i just let it coast.. i live in new england and its cold but this doesnt happen all the time! mostly i can start the car in like 10 degrees and it will be fine and smooth idling and driving but sometimes this situation happens...and its confusing me because even after driving for a little bit and the car is warmed up and i shut the car off to go into the bank or gas station or something then come back out and start it up this happens. so any help would be appreciated thank you!

 

Hey hows it going guys? I am relatively new to the org site. I am currently working on my 99 maxima doing a 3.5 swap. I am about 85-90% done. I still need to do all the wiring Other than that everything seems to be going well...

Got a couple of questions, first...
I need a Pathfinder throttle body. Is anyone selling one I can use? I am having a hard time finding one at local junk yards in AZ. If not, ima go to ebay...

Second...
Is there a way to hook up the EVAP system? I went through a number pages on this and I am still rather baffled . Some ppl left it out some ppl bypassed... I pretty sure il need it to pass emission here in AZ. Any recommendations?

Finally...
I am pretty sure my friend has it down on how to do the EGR connections but any ideas or threads where I can find more info.. Im still a bit confused on this matter..


Also... how do I view the stikies?