There is no separate ground point for the VSS, both leads go directly to the speedo. Most likely your problem is going to be loose screws holding the speedo to the cluster. Loosen and retighten all 4 of them, and watch for the problem to reoccur. If your speedo works correctly and it's just the ECU/TCM complaining, then it's likely just the upper right screw (marked 2P), as that's the output from the speedo to the ECU/TCM (input is upper left, power lower right, ground lower left).

You're looking for the 4 on the right hand side of the picture, just up and right of the Nissan logo:

 

Man that is so much help! I'll have to go to that how-to link and look for the process of taking the dash apart to get at the back of the gauge cluster and locate those screws.
Thank you so much for the fast and very helpful response! My anxiety is decreasing as I am now not so worried that my tranny is on its way out. at worst I would need a new gauge cluster, right?

 

Howto here:
At worst, you'd need a new speedo assy, which is easy to swap in from another cluster (literally just those 4 screws and taking the front cover off).

 

Ok so I loosened then tightened those 4 screws as well as all the other ones. I broke one side of my bezel at the flex point because I opted to leave the steering Colum together, but duh its -11*c out. I was quite surprised at how "wavy", the thin circuit film was, instead of being nice and flat. anyway got it all back together and so far so good,( As far as the O/D light blinking), I guess time will tell. The chime works when the key is turned to the "on" position again, bonus. I'd like to clear the CEL codes and see if the "speed sensor" code comes back also, but the battery for my android phone is shot and I need the phone to communicate, (Via Bluetooth), with the OBDII reader.

 

Just clear the codes manually.

 

Oh yeah, I forgot that the Maxima has an CEL self diagnosis system too. For some reason I was thinking that it was only my 1990 Mazda MX-6 GT that had it.
Still no O/D light blinking, do I dare say that the fix was truly that easy....
Thanks for all your help, now onto the next thing. Knock sensor, Evap code, (filler neck leaks something horrible), and a couple of other codes that I can remember.

 

Ok, so I manually reset the ECU then waited for the CEL light to come back on. I then manually pulled the codes, (even though I hate doing it that way because I suck at keeping track of all the pluses when there is multiple codes). Anyway, The speed sensor code is gone from the ECU as well as the TCM. The codes I got were 0903-Evap canister, (to be expected since there is hardly anything left to my patched filler neck), 0304- Knock sensor, (running regular gas maybe?). I'll check again in a few days as I'm expecting that there will be a couple more codes arise, mainly the o2 sensor and 3 way catalyst, as they were there before and I haven't repaired either yet.
Where should I start with the 0304-knock sensor code? maybe go back to running supreme, (91 oct), gas then reset the ECU again and wait to see if I the code comes back?


The hope is to get the car back to perfect running "stock condition" then proceed to do some performance mods from there. IMHO there is no point in modding when the car doesn't run 100% correctly in stock form.


Thanks again

 

The knock sensor code is the last thing to address. This code will pop up with just about any other code, especially if the other codes are about engine performance. Fix the other problems first and the knock sensor code will probably go away.

 

Ok so Chances are that the code "O2 sensor heater, sensor 2 bank 1", and the fact that the 3-way catalyst is not functioning could be causing the knock sensor to complain.
I suspect that the "O2 sensor heater" code is due to the fact that I have a leak in the exhaust at the flex pipe before the main CAT, causing it to not to get up to temp equally with the motor. As far as the 3-way catalyst issue goes, should I just simply get rid of the stock "y-pipe" and install an aftermarket one that has no Pre-cats? (its a mod I want to do anyway, with a 10hp increase, why wouldn't I?) Would I get the same "not ready" response for the catalyst when I run the OBDII again after installing the aftermarket "y-pipe"?
I assume that with a quick search of the forums I should be able to find a way to test the Knock sensor using a voltage meter?


Thanks again
Nathan

 

To start with, you can download the Nissan service manual, referred to as FSM, from Pmohr's website. The URL is:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1997
The file IDX.pdf is the alphabetical index for the manual.
File FWD.pdf is the cover page and this will give you the names for the other sections.

As you are dealing with several problems, I am not sure I have an accurate picture of what is going on. Some of my problem may be the words you use in comparison to the words Nissan uses.

Let me do the easy part first - knock sensor. There is a resistance test you can do on the knock sensor. In section EC of the FSM ( http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1997/EC.pdf ) Starting on page 196 is the knock sensor. Page 198 at the bottom is the resistance test. Note that the resistance measurement is done at 25ºC. Read the entire section, there is a voltage check you can do and some ground wire connections to check. Something not in the manual is that if the plastic shell of the knock sensor has cracked, you need to replace it. But you can't always see that if the sensor is still mounted in the car. I don't know if running premium gas would help. I've had my 97 for about 150K miles (approx 241K KM) and have never put premium in it. I have replaced my knock sensor because it cracked, but otherwise no code unless it was with other problems. Also - the knock sensor code, if you were to get the code all by itself, will not cause a check engine light.

You want to replace your y-pipe. I have done that on my car. I used the Warpspeed brand that has the bungs welded in for the oxygen sensors. I have no problems with codes causing a check engine light. This will give you a new flex section that is currently leaking on your car. It will make the exhaust a little louder, but not that much.


3 way catalyst - this is what Nissan calls the main catalytic converter that is located under the passenger front seat. It has nothing to do with the y-pipe other than it bolts to the y-pipe.

Oxygen sensor - was the code 0902 (P0141)? If so, you probably have a bad oxygen sensor because the code says heater circuit. These O2 sensors do have a heating element in them to heat the sensor to where it will "sense". If the voltage signal coming from the sensor were to be incorrect, the code would be something else. You may not have a problem with the catalytic converter.

 

I have a question about P1447.

I was checking my monitors and I get code P1447, but when I check what's complete, EVAP states that it's complete and ready.

So I'm trying to figure out what is causing p1447 even though it's ready

 

Did you check all the items on page EC-311 listed as causing P1447?

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1996/EC.pdf

 

I'm reviewing it right now.

 

So my friend and I had time, I got a vacuum gauge tester, and we followed the FSM. The only faulty sensor I have is the absolute pressure sensor in the back, near the canister. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction DennisMik

EDIT: it read fine at 0, but under 70mmHg it was way below spec.

 

Yes, the O2 code is P0141, (Bank 1 sensor 2). If I try to get the A/f ratio readings from another app. I have that works with the OBDII, it says something like "system in open-loop" and can't give me the A/F readings. I suspect this is because the o2 sensor truly is no good and since the first sensor can't get readings from the 2nd it stays in an open-loop mode. Therefor the car gets its A/F readings from pre-set parameters programed in the ECU which is set to run a little richer to compensate for not being able to get accurate o2 readings. Is this correct, or am I way off?
I guess I should start with replacing the exhaust system and y-pipe, first. Then proceed to replace the o2 sensors. Next, replace the filler neck and any other Evap. system parts that are bad. Then lastly, get a voltage meter to test the resistance of the knock sensor/check to see if its cracked and replace if necessary. I figure that is the order I should go about fixing these problems, What do you think?
I also have to figure out why my belt squeals on start-up, even though there seems to be enough tension. I think that maybe my A/C compressor pulley is starting to seize-up, as it really feels like something is holding the car back when I accelerate, and the Power is not impressive at all, considering what kind of power I know the Maxima should have. any ideas?
Thanks for all the help so far guys, and for bearing with me as I know I am a complete newbie here. This forum reminds me a lot of MX-6.com, where all the great members and the very extensive information in the archives allowed me to learn my 1990 MX-6 GT inside and out, which saved me a ton of money in mechanic work. I hope I can learn my Maxima inside and out also, by being a member here!


Nathan


PS: Is there a good Canadian vendor that you would recommend for me to purchase the warpspeed y-pipe? Do used aftermarket y-pipes ever show-up in the for-sale/wanted section of this forum? I'm going to start checking now, but just want to know if I would just be wasting my time looking for a used one or not.

 

The first 2 things I would take care of it the fuel filler tube and the O2 sensor. Clear the codes and see what comes back. When it comes to the air/fuel ratios, I don't mess with that and have no idea what is good or bad. I'm sure the limits are programmed into the ECU since every sensor of every type is wired to the ECU.

Next item would be the exhaust. I can't recommend any stores in Canada. I'm down south in Texas where we have a different country to concern ourselves with. The Warpspeed pipe is sold through e-bay mostly. I don't know if this would make the border crossing any less problematic. As far as used ones go, that is hit or miss. If you find another brand, get it. The brand is not that big of an issue to my thinking.

The knock sensor is the last thing on your list. Like I said before, it may go away when the other things are fixed. If the code is still persists, then replace it. Measuring the voltage and resistance is a nice exercise, but sometimes testing isn't worth the time it takes. If it is the only code, replace it.

The belt squealing may be the belt being a little loose. The proper belt tension is more than tight, it is damn tight. You check from under the car, the section between the crankshaft pulley and the a/c pulley. 1/4 inch deflection under 22 pounds of pressure (7mm, 10kg). But if you are still running the original belt, it is probably cracking and is glazed, due for replacement. See FSM, section MA (maintenance), page 10.

The belt tensioner assembly is sort of strange. Everyone looks at it and says "I see how you do it." They are correct except for the fact it is locked. You have to loosen the bolt that holds the pulley on before turning the adjuster nut. 6 point sockets are a must for snow belt cars as the pulley bolt and the adjusting bolt like to strip easily. PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, WD40 are your friends.

Is the a/c clutch freezing up? Don't know. Take the belt off and turn it by hand. If you have serious doubts, get a smaller belt and eliminate it. The FSM shows you how to thread it. The standard belt is 1100 mm in length or 43.5 inches. To bypass the a/c, the belt it 920 mm or 36.25 inches.

But the loss of power may be the MAF. It is a difficult thing to diagnose, bordering more on guessing. Loss of power is one of a bad MAF's symptoms. There are special MAF cleaners available that work some of the time, but it really depends on if the sensor is dirty. One Maxima.org member said he went to a Midas Muffler shop and that had a specialized tester that worked for him. But I don't know: A) if all locations have that tester and B) does Midas Muffler have shops in Canada.

So start working you way through the different things and you will finally have the car running the way you want it.

 

OK, so I will start with the o2 sensor. P0141 bank 1 sensor 2 is located just after the Cat and before the muffler right? (I still have to download the FMS, but can't until I get a new memory card). The sensor that is on there now is being pushed up against the body right where the leads go into the sensor. Perhaps a wire became damaged from being kinked off like that. Is there any aftermarket sensor I can buy that is shorter or has flexible leads so the new one won't become damaged? Or will I have to change the location of the o2 bung?
We do have Midas shops here. But I'm pretty sure my MAF is reading fine. As my idle is smooth, (fairly steady RPM's, apx. 750 RPM after warmed up). And a g/s re ading of 7-8 g/s at idle, which I'm fairly sure is within spec.
Now I'm pretty broke and my income is low, so as far as the y-pipe goes can I simply gut the pre-cat(s) as a temporary solution for eliminating them? Also, where I am in Canada I would imagine my car is a FED spec. With only one pre-cat, right?

Thanks again
Nathan

 

Canadian and Fed spec cars have the same exhaust. The bank 2 O2 sensor is behind the catalytic converter. But something is wrong because it should not be that close to the body. The sensor should be pointing out to the side, parallel with the car body. On my car I have plenty of room to put my hand between the body and the O2 sensor. I would have to guess that some exhaust pipe section is bent. As far as I know, all brands of O2 sensors are the same size, so finding a shorter one won't happen.

On the 1995 and 1996 cars, the sensor screwed into the catalytic converter and did point upwards a bit. That changed in 1997 when a short piece of pipe was added after the catalytic converter and the O2 sensor screwed into the pipe. I hope this short pipe thing is what you have.

Speaking of O2 sensors, you need to know the terminology used in selling them. Nissan uses the term sensor 1 and sensor 2. Stores do not.
Sensor 1 = upstream or front
Sensor 2 = downstream or rear

You can get "universal" sensors where you have to cut the wires off of the old sensor and splice them on to the new sensor. These are less expensive but you need to make sure you correctly splice the wires. Also, wires exposed to the elements as this O2 sensor would be, need to be soldered. Crimp connections will corrode and lose the electrical connection.

The y-pipe has 2 pre-cats built into it, one for each bank of the engine. The one for bank 1 (firewall side) would be the hard one to gut because of the 180º pipe bends. Since your flex section is leaking, I don't know if gutting the pre-cats is worth the time and effort. The y-pipe still needs to be replaced. Just my 2 cents on that.

As far as the power loss and my guess at the MAF goes, like I said, it is a guess. A bad knock sensor could be causing the spark to be retarded, but other codes do cause a knock sensor code, which could cause the timing to be retarded. A plugged catalytic converter can cause loss of power because of excessive exhaust pressure. If you are ambitious, you could take the catalytic converter off and give the car a test drive. It would be a bit noisy, but it is a test.

 

Ok, so I'll forget about gutting the pre-cats, I was just thinking it might be a cheaper option. I guess however, by the time I buy a universal flex pipe and hire a shop to welded it in, the cost would be about the same as buying an aftermarket y-pipe an bolting it on myself.
The o2 is installed in a section of pipe after the cat, like the 4th Gen should be. It too sticks out the side but is hitting the body. Is it suoposed to sit lower so it clears the body or is my exhaust sitting to far to one side. I'll try to get some pics of it for you. When you mentioned that my exhaust may be bent, I decided to take a close look at it. Well, bent it is! There is a fairly large section, after the CAT and before the muffler, that is bent/flattened out effectively closing that section of the exhaust off by at least 50%! I don't know if I bottomed out on something or if some careless Mechanic did it with a lift. This could be a big part of my power loss, IMHO.
I just missed out on getting a set of headers and a y-pipe for $200usd in the FS/WTB section. Well its pending anyway.
I priced out an o2 sensor, they wanted $50cdn for one at my local APM auto parts, also I would have to wait a week for it to come in. I'm sure I can find one for $20 online and receive it within the same amount of time or even quicker.
As far as the MAF goes, you very well could be guessing correct and I will have it checked just in case. But, I have had MAF issues before with other cars and they either would not run at all or run like complete s##t, with rough idles, constant stalling, and no acceleration.
I also should clarify that I am not getting a CAT code, its just saying "not ready". Once I fix the exhaust and replace the bad o2 I should get a ready response for the catalyst, right?

Thanks again
Nathan

 

FWIW, that's factory. Notice how the crushed section is directly above a brace?

 

I just took another look and there is no brace that I can see. It is directly after the resanatior and well before the muffler. I can see no reason for it to be there. I'm going to try and upload a pic or video.

 

Do you see two studs sticking out of the body on either side of the crushed area? There should be a brace there.

 

Nope. I didn't notice any studs. Mabey I am missing the bracket ? Here is a link to a quick video. Showing where it is....I tried to get the o2 sensor in the video too buy I ran out of SD card space.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0u_0uQFjtm8&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Let me know if I am missing something please.

 

Okay well, I just took another look and yeah I see the studs now. I guess I am missing the bracket. Darn I was hoping that I had discovered the problem. Anyway is that bracket important?

 

Not strictly, no. I wouldn't make a big deal of not having it, but I would grab one at the yard the next time you go. Even brand new they're only ~$15.

 

I just bought a 99 I30 Limited with 133,000 miles.. its black with grey leather interior.. the front and back seats are ripped up badly and wanna swap seats.. what other vehicle seats will fit my I30?


Anybody have grey leather front and back seats for sale?

 

Deff. Any 4th Gen maxima, seats would fit, IMHO.
As far as if anyone has any for sale I would check the 4th Gen FS. Section for members that are parting whole cars out.

 

Hello. I keep getting a p0600 code whatever I clear the CEL, and drive around the block, shortly after that I would get a VSS code, and something about 4th gear,and sometimes when I start the car the O/D light flashes for a number of times, I think that the first code cause the others to go off, however the speedometer works fine, I've replaced my TCM, and I've even tried a new battery, any idea how to fix this, or what do I need to look at, Thanks for your help

 

Have you pulled the codes off of the tcm too. If your o/d light is blinking that is the transmission trying to tell you something. Trip the tcm onto diagnostic mode, look at the o/d light flashes and see what codes are stored in the tcm. Report back with your findings. The procedure for pulling the tcm codes is listed in the how-to stickies. I would try resetting the tcm first then the ECU again. And see what comes back. Since you had to unplugg stuff to Change out the tcm. Make sure you get the tcm's codes first before resetting. Your VSS problem may be as simple as mine was, lose screws in the cluster. Ill let someone more experienced chime in now.

 

Thanks for the reply, i did use the steps they provided here on the forum as to how i would go about getting the code for the tcm, but i did it like 10 times, and both lights just stay still, O/F off and check engine light on

however when I was on my way home from work, I cleared the codes, and once I got home only one code was on it to my surprise, it always starts with p0600, and a few hours to a day then the VSS code will come on then followed by the 4th Gear code, but today it just went right to the VSS code, and that's all that I pulled with my scanner, do you think that one of my VSS is the problem, i know there's 2, but my speedometer works fine, so i guessing it's the one by the drivers wheel? what do you think?

PS i did take out my Speedometer things from the dash, and broke my trim in the process, and everything seems fine to me, so i put it back in
PSS the cars sometimes don't want to shift, I would have to bring it to a high RPM then it would shift kinda hard then it's back to normal, and sometimes it would not shift into 3rd or 4th I'm not sure but if i let up of the gas then you'd see the RPM drop as how it would if you go into a gear, and more of the time it would not shift at all if i pull of too hard, and i shut it off, and it start it up then it back to normal... hope i didn't miss anything

PSSS the first time the O/D light blinked like that is when i hit a patch in on the highway like something was knocked loose or something, i know it can't be a wiring problem, because wires don't just break when you high a bump... and that's what that P0600 code is about, and i already changed the TCM so it's not it...

 

Did you replace your tcm with a new unit or a used unit? Have you tested the wiring for both the leads going to the speedometer as well as from the speedometer to the ecu? If your speedometer is working and your just getting codes, its IMHO that your problem is in the wiring after the speedometer going to the ECU. I'm not sure where it goes from there, but my guess is there is wiring going from the ECU to the TCM. the may be problematic wiring there too. You may not have needed a new tcm. Hopefully someone with more experience in wiring can chime in...Denis?
PS: its strange to me that you can't set the tcm into diagnostic mode. For this reason alone I feel that the problem may be in the wiring, as it would appear that the tcm can't even communicate with the Ecu to do a diagnostic check.
Pss: when you pulled the gauge cluster out did you loosen then retightened to 4 screws for the VSS? When I pulled mine everything looked fine but I loosened and retightened the screws anyway, this took care of my VSS problem. But honestly I think there is more going on in your suitation, however its worth a try. Also, don't feel bad about breaking your bezel, I broke mine too. The proper way to avoid breaking the bezel is to remove the steering coloum too. This will allow you to have enough room to remove the bezel without having to over flex it.

 

i didn't mess with the screws, can you point out where the screws are located, I never tested the wires running from the TCM to the ECU because I don't have a multimeter, and I don't know where to start checking, my cluster works fine, and it gives just about the right RPM, and Speed when I'm driving, so I'm not sure where there's even a VSS output code p0720, but i also read that these cars have 2 VSS sensors, there was a snow storm so I didn't get to put out the cluster yet, and do any test.

 

Scroll up to the top of this page, then a couple of posts down there is a pic. of the back of the gauge cluster. Above the pic is a description as to where the leads are for the VSS. They are the 4 screws that are in a circle just up ands to the right of the Nissan logo. One of the screws is marked (2p). I would start there. Also have you downloaded the FSM service manual yet. If not you should, the link can be found by scrolling up also.
I'm really hoping someone else with electrical experience will chime in.

PS: since your speedometer is working I believe your VSS itself is working fine. Its seem that the signal from the cluster to the ECU or from the ECU to the tcm is being distrupted. You will need the wiring diagram and test specs from the FSM. As I have no clue where they are after the cluster. Also is there two VSS? I thought there was only one. You say your transmission is shifting funny? That's Lilly because the tcm isn't receiving the proper info.

 

revolution sensor is also one of the speed sensor that's what the p0720 code is about

 

OK, I see. Ill have to look over the wiring diagram to see where the wiring goes for that sensor. I guessing that it too leads to the back of the cluster, as that is what tells the rpm gauge what your revs are at. Again since your rpm gauge is reading accurately I would guess that the problem is not the sensor itself, but in the wiring going to the ECU or from the ECU to the tcm. If the tcm didn't know what the RPMS are then your shifting will be off, assuming your an automatic.
You will have to get a multimeter/ohm meter and start testing the wiring. When I have time ill review the wiring diagram and test specs to try and help you along.
I'm not the best with electricals, so I'm hoping someone chimes in with more info as to how to test these systems.

 

I have a 1998 i30 A/T. For some reason, I assume the cold of New York, has made my steering wheel act up. If I turn all the way to the left or to the right even after warming up but only on first drive off, my wheel seems to click. If I am turning left it doesn't complete rotation smoothly towards second rotation it stops keeps going stops and keeps going again until I hit the end( kind of like the feeling of anti lock brakes ). Same with the right side. Just started happening, never happened before. Could it be the PS pump going? Any help would be great thanks

 

It is more likely that the belt for the power steering pump is slipping. When everything warms up, the belt also warms up and expands to grip better. An old belt gets hard and is more prone to slip. There is a good chance that you have to original belt, which is long over due for replacement.

 

It most likely is the original, knowing the previous owner. Thank you never would have thought of it. I'll look into it over the weekend.

 

OK I have good news, and maybe some bad news... today I went in the car because I just wanted to sit their, and see if i could find out what the problem is like I always do, so I went ahead, and put back my TCM that came with the car because mine looks much cleaner than the one I pain $70 for (Waste of money) it turns out the after looking stuff up for weeks here on the forum I got a few ideas as to what might cause what to act the way it does, so I had already looked at the Revolution Sensor one day, and checked a bunch of stuff that I though would be the problem, But long story short, looks like when I did some work, or someone I let do work on my car forget to push down one of the clips that was on the TPS, the black clip, I spotted it today, but I'm always looking for stuff that's not connected, but never found one until today, so I clipped it down real nice then cleared the code, and to my surprise I notice that the car was shifting better than it was, and not doing as much as it did, so then I stop, and check the computer for a code, because at this point the the p0600 code would have popped up already, so I kept driving, and driving then check the computer, and there it was p0600, then here comes the good news, because the clip wasn't connected like it should, I wasn't able to get the car to show me the problem by doing the steps, however this time it worked, and if I'm right then the p0720 code I keep getting is the main problem, look at the video, and tell me what you think

I'm not sure if this p0720 code is the reason the p0600 code pops up first, but I'm gonna deal with the p0720 code first, so how much will this cost, and I'm pretty sure i can do it myself, I took it out like a week ago
P.S do you think it's the p0720 that cause the p0600 code?

 

Summary:

95 GLE (Automatic transmission).
No modifications I know about (other than aftermarket alarm).
Purchased with odometer already frozen at 208,000.
No idea of actual mileage.

Bought car a few weeks ago.
Recently had issues with starting.
Now it will not start -- at all.
Alternator checked out fine.
Brand new battery did not fix the issue.
EDIT to clarify: It won't start in neutral, either.
Possible reason for problem: aftermarket alarm activating killswitch on starter.
Other possible reasons for problem: bad starter or ignition?

Detailed history of problem:

Problem began after lights were left on, and I received a jump start. The alarm sounded after jump start, so I removed the alarm fuse and the sound stopped. AAA mechanic tested and verified that there is nothing draining the battery. AAA mechanic tested alternator -- and the alternator is fine.

Car worked for a couple days. Then it would not start. This time, I attached an overnight charger that was plugged into my carport. The clamps on charger were too tiny to clamp onto the battery properly (not even the bolts) so therefore I disconnected the battery cables and put the clamps on it to start it.

After battery charged, I disconnected charger and reconnected battery and started car. It started right up.

But an hour later, I went to start car and it would NOT start.
Edit to clarify, wouldn't start in Park or in Neutral.

Removed battery, and got friend to drive me to store to buy new battery. Installed new battery. But car would not start.

A non-mechanical friend had a hunch looked at the cable from the starter to the battery. It seemed loose where it was connected to the battery. He tightened it. Car started right up.

An hour later, I started car, after several tries. I drove directly to O'Reilly's auto parts store. I told the staff what was happening and they came outside to check. They verified that the starter cable was correctly attached to the battery -- and that everything about the battery was correctly connected. They also verified the alternator is okay.

The O'Reilly's guys asked me to start the car for them to show them what difficulties I was having. But it wouldn't start at all. No noise. No click. No nothing. Yet the lights, electric windows, clock, wipers, etc all work fine. They tried several things, including tapping on the starter with a hammer, etc. They had me hold the ignition in the ON position while they were testing. Nothing worked. They guessed it was bad starter but said this could not be known unless starter were removed and replaced.

I had car towed to a mechanic's garage. He did some tests. He thinks that this is an issue with the battery having been replaced – that perhaps the kill switch on the starter was activated -- due to issues with the alarm. He said it is an aftermarket alarm, and he says he doesn't have the knowledge how to safely/efficiently disable the aftermarket alarm system so that the starter will work.

What I need to know: How to safely/effectively disable aftermarket alarm -- to see if the starter works.

Also need any ideas you can suggest as to what I should try.

Note: I am very broke and do not want to buy starter unless I must.

I googled disabling aftermarket alarms and found this video. Tell me if this make sense:

Thank you for being here.

-----------------

Background history of my ownership of this car
(in case you are wondering)

Bought car on craigslist for $800.00. Do not have any prior repair history. It was the best car I could find for the limited funds I had available.

I'm an older person, and I am ignorant of mechanical things, and I know nothing about cars. But I want to learn to be independent and fix things myself when possible.

Since I bought my Maxima, I have done the following to educate myself:
I have been reading here at maxima.org.
I borrowed the Haynes manual from the public library.
I downloaded the Factory Service Manual onto my hard drive.

However, I am broke and own no tools.
I have friends who can help me at a discounted rate, on condition that I do as much research as possible on my own.