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Old 04-16-2011 | 07:39 PM
  #7081  
DennisMik's Avatar
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From: Plano, TX
Originally Posted by brobeau
Thanks DennisMik. I was told when I had the plugs replaced last year that the knock sensor was bad and they wanted to charge me almost $500 to replace it which was almost twice the charge for replacing all 6 plugs! I asked if it was an urgent repair to which I was told no so I told them thanks but no thanks. However I saw the how to about replacing the sensor so I got an OEM one off of ebay and I do have fairly small hands but that sucker is on there so tight I can't believe the old sensor didn't crack in half when they bolted it on. Several shots of Liquid Wrench and many days of fighting it with my racheting socket wrench and still it won't budge.

My main concern with replacing the coil myself was if I would have to remove any engine parts to get to them. If it is as simple as plug and play then I am pretty confident that I can do it. I just was hoping to see someone else do it first maybe in pics or a video. I will check out the links you gave me and go from there.
A repair shop will probably take the intake manifold off the change the knock sensor. When I changed mine, I couldn't get the bolt loose with a ratchet. I had to use a short box wrench to break it loose. CAUTION - When you go and stick your hand in where the knock sensor is, I, like many others, discovered that there are some very sharp edges in there. For me it was the top right corner area when I had my hand in there.

As for the coil packs, they are out in the open, you don't have to take anything else off to get to them.
Old 04-17-2011 | 11:25 AM
  #7082  
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Originally Posted by cashoit
Before u replace the sensor, try some chevron techron in the fuel tank. Sometimes the sensor gets a film of dirt on it and cant read as accurately. Chevron can help to clean that right up.
I already did that and the check engine light came on. I also already have the part. Where is this sensor located?
Old 04-17-2011 | 11:55 AM
  #7083  
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Originally Posted by cspence4364
I already did that and the check engine light came on. I also already have the part. Where is this sensor located?
It is located at the rear of the engine towards firewall on the exhaust pipe.
Old 04-17-2011 | 07:48 PM
  #7084  
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From: Lake St. Louis
Hello everyone, I have recently bought my parents 1996 Nissan Maxima off them. This will be my first vehicle. It has 202,???k miles on it, and besides regular maintenance(like frequent oil changes, new tires), it has had terrible caretakers. So, I guess as a reference, you could say NOTHING has been replaced in my vehicle since 1996. If the Maxima community could help me, I would like to know, starting with the most important part, what should I be focusing on replacing in my car? What parts should I save up for and install to insure my car will see another couple years? Any advice would be helpful. Thank you!
Old 04-18-2011 | 11:28 AM
  #7085  
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Originally Posted by Iamthewalrus
Hello everyone, I have recently bought my parents 1996 Nissan Maxima off them. This will be my first vehicle. It has 202,???k miles on it, and besides regular maintenance(like frequent oil changes, new tires), it has had terrible caretakers. So, I guess as a reference, you could say NOTHING has been replaced in my vehicle since 1996. If the Maxima community could help me, I would like to know, starting with the most important part, what should I be focusing on replacing in my car? What parts should I save up for and install to insure my car will see another couple years? Any advice would be helpful. Thank you!
if nothin is wrong, then there isnt anythin to fix.

I u want u can do a tune up. This wd include:
clean Tb,
clean Maf,
replace plugs with NGK plats,
replace pcv
replace fuel filter
replace air filter,
replace ECTS,
Chevron techron in the fuel tank
replace engine coolant
replace tranny fluid
Old 04-18-2011 | 01:35 PM
  #7086  
Trin1j23's Avatar
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How do you know if the evaporator core is bad ?
Old 04-18-2011 | 03:03 PM
  #7087  
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From: Lake St. Louis
Originally Posted by cashoit
if nothin is wrong, then there isnt anythin to fix.

I u want u can do a tune up. This wd include:
clean Tb,
clean Maf,
replace plugs with NGK plats,
replace pcv
replace fuel filter
replace air filter,
replace ECTS,
Chevron techron in the fuel tank
replace engine coolant
replace tranny fluid
As for any computer modules, which ones go out the quickest? Apparently, according to my local auto repair man, he said there is something wrong with my CV axle boot or something of the sort, what is this part? And just to let everyone know, I know NOTHING about cars. Literally. Everything you listed to me that I should tune up looked like this to me-भारतीय भाषाएँ-and that is the Hindi language.

Last edited by Iamthewalrus; 04-18-2011 at 03:12 PM.
Old 04-18-2011 | 06:22 PM
  #7088  
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I have a 95 maxima. 5sp and i just ordered a short ram intake off ebay. i was wondering how to put the air temp sensor in it because it has the two screws on it and the pipe doesnt show where to put it. here is the link.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...2055&viewitem= send me a private message or on here.thanks
Old 04-19-2011 | 10:29 AM
  #7089  
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From: Worcester, MA
Originally Posted by Iamthewalrus
As for any computer modules, which ones go out the quickest? Apparently, according to my local auto repair man, he said there is something wrong with my CV axle boot or something of the sort, what is this part? And just to let everyone know, I know NOTHING about cars. Literally. Everything you listed to me that I should tune up looked like this to me-भारतीय भाषाएँ-and that is the Hindi language.
Read this man...

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...hread-yet.html

Its a wealth of information. The axle boot connects to the drive shaft. I think its jus a plastic boot/cover. Cost like 30 bucks. Prolly another 100 bucks in labor to replace
Old 04-19-2011 | 10:41 AM
  #7090  
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From: Worcester, MA
Originally Posted by Dwolniak
I have a 95 maxima. 5sp and i just ordered a short ram intake off ebay. i was wondering how to put the air temp sensor in it because it has the two screws on it and the pipe doesnt show where to put it. here is the link.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...2055&viewitem= send me a private message or on here.thanks
yo man, im not sure why the short pipe has four hose connections. THat shyt aint right.

Spend a lil extra and get a pipe that comes with a grommet to insert the IATS into. Otherwise, jus wire tape it somewhere close to the cone filter and it will be fine.
Old 04-19-2011 | 01:22 PM
  #7091  
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I have two questions.
First, I flushed my coolant system yesterday and replaced it with a different type of coolant. I forgot to run my heater during the flushes, though. Does coolant always circulate through the heater core or does the heater have to be on? Im going to flush it again as soon as I have the time, just to be safe, but I'd still like to know if anyone else knows.
Second question, I am going to flush my brakes sometime this week with a non-diaphragm brake bleeder. I have the pressure cap for my car, but i'm not sure if these master cylinders can take much pressure at all. My 95 has 140K miles and i dont think the fluid has ever been touched. Should I just flush my brakes the old fashioned way, or am i safe pressurizing the system?
Thank you in advance.
Old 04-19-2011 | 06:22 PM
  #7092  
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Originally Posted by cashoit
yo man, im not sure why the short pipe has four hose connections. THat shyt aint right.

Spend a lil extra and get a pipe that comes with a grommet to insert the IATS into. Otherwise, jus wire tape it somewhere close to the cone filter and it will be fine.
thanks. ill try to figure it out. You know anything about lowering springs?
Old 04-20-2011 | 09:41 AM
  #7093  
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From: Portland, OR
Looking for advice on a future suspension setup.

If I get lowering springs will they work well with the stock struts? Does the install require any other modding? Would I be better off saving up for the entire aftermarket kit?

I would like to go to new struts eventually - just wondering if I could get away with just the springs for now. I have read many posts and threads about suspension - however I still have this question. Thanks.
Old 04-20-2011 | 10:43 AM
  #7094  
cashoit's Avatar
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From: Worcester, MA
Originally Posted by RoseCityMax
Looking for advice on a future suspension setup.

If I get lowering springs will they work well with the stock struts? Does the install require any other modding? Would I be better off saving up for the entire aftermarket kit?



I would like to go to new struts eventually - just wondering if I could get away with just the springs for now. I have read many posts and threads about suspension - however I still have this question. Thanks.

Do not run lowering springs on stock struts. you WILL blow them, especially if they are original struts. You may get away with it if u go with new stock struts but i still wont recommend that.

tokico blues with H&R is what i got. Very smooth ride. nicer stance. IF u want to spend more or go lower then get tokico illuminas. read my thread on this

Last edited by cashoit; 04-20-2011 at 11:23 AM.
Old 04-20-2011 | 12:08 PM
  #7095  
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 15
From: Portland, OR
Originally Posted by cashoit
Do not run lowering springs on stock struts. you WILL blow them, especially if they are original struts. You may get away with it if u go with new stock struts but i still wont recommend that.

tokico blues with H&R is what i got. Very smooth ride. nicer stance. IF u want to spend more or go lower then get tokico illuminas. read my thread on this
Thanks for the response. I have been looking into the Tokico Blues for a while now. There is a set of Option springs for sale in the Classifieds - would that be a viable setup with a new set of Tokico Blues?

I looked into a handful of the threads you posted in regarding suspension but I havent read all your posts on suspension - so forgive me if a question like this has already been answered somewhere out there. Thanks!
Old 04-20-2011 | 12:46 PM
  #7096  
cashoit's Avatar
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From: Worcester, MA
Originally Posted by RoseCityMax
Thanks for the response. I have been looking into the Tokico Blues for a while now. There is a set of Option springs for sale in the Classifieds - would that be a viable setup with a new set of Tokico Blues?

I looked into a handful of the threads you posted in regarding suspension but I havent read all your posts on suspension - so forgive me if a question like this has already been answered somewhere out there. Thanks!

It all depends on your location, how much u tryin to spend, how low u trying to go, and what kind of ride u want either very sporty or stock-like. Once these questions are answered, we can provide options for setups that are available.

THe blues will give u a soft comfortable ride, better handling over stock. Some ppl dont like that cuz they want a firm sporty ride with even increased handling like KYB give u. But KYB get harsh in the winter months. Neither one of these setups are good for drops greater than 2". Thats why i say answer those questions first then we can really begin
Old 04-20-2011 | 03:30 PM
  #7097  
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Originally Posted by cashoit
It all depends on your location, how much u tryin to spend, how low u trying to go, and what kind of ride u want either very sporty or stock-like. Once these questions are answered, we can provide options for setups that are available.

THe blues will give u a soft comfortable ride, better handling over stock. Some ppl dont like that cuz they want a firm sporty ride with even increased handling like KYB give u. But KYB get harsh in the winter months. Neither one of these setups are good for drops greater than 2". Thats why i say answer those questions first then we can really begin
I was looking into eibach springs and kyb shocks possibly. im not looking to spend a lot of money. Does is matter on the springs or more the shocks? The eibach springs only lowers 1.5 inch in the front and 1.3 in the back, would I need a cambering kit for that?
Old 04-20-2011 | 04:31 PM
  #7098  
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Just regreased my starter but cant remember which post the cable to battery goes on. Any help thanks
Old 04-20-2011 | 05:04 PM
  #7099  
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From: NYC
98 max
I have to replace my control arm bushing, they're pretty shot..Recently went to strauss and the control arm and ball joint are sold seperate. I have a frend with a press and I wanted to know should I just buy the bushing and replace it? Or should I buy the whole control arm and press in the ball joint? Need a little advice
Old 04-21-2011 | 06:48 AM
  #7100  
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From: Worcester, MA
Originally Posted by Dwolniak
I was looking into eibach springs and kyb shocks possibly. im not looking to spend a lot of money. Does is matter on the springs or more the shocks? The eibach springs only lowers 1.5 inch in the front and 1.3 in the back, would I need a cambering kit for that?
A camber kit is required for drops over 2". For that mild drop u suggesting dont need em. U can buy new camber bolts if u want...they only $12 depending on where u buy. KYB-GR2 will work with those springs but KYB dont ride nice in the winter cold. Keep that in mind. Your setup is more on the sporty side, meaning the handling will be good, but it might hit a lil harder than u or SHE wants.

Last edited by cashoit; 04-21-2011 at 06:50 AM.
Old 04-21-2011 | 06:49 AM
  #7101  
cashoit's Avatar
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Posts: 4,011
From: Worcester, MA
Originally Posted by haydeno
Just regreased my starter but cant remember which post the cable to battery goes on. Any help thanks
Can only be the postivie lead. The negative lead on the battery only grounds to the engine.
Old 04-21-2011 | 06:53 AM
  #7102  
cashoit's Avatar
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From: Worcester, MA
Originally Posted by jynx31k
98 max
I have to replace my control arm bushing, they're pretty shot..Recently went to strauss and the control arm and ball joint are sold seperate. I have a frend with a press and I wanted to know should I just buy the bushing and replace it? Or should I buy the whole control arm and press in the ball joint? Need a little advice
Either way is good, jus depend on how much u wanna spend and whether u jus want new parts. Like me, whenever i replace somehtin, i replace the WHOLE thing. THat being sd, U dont have to replace the control arm unless it looks rusted and ****ty or its cracked. If it still look good then replace tha bushing and call it day.
Old 04-21-2011 | 08:02 AM
  #7103  
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From: NYC
Originally Posted by cashoit
Either way is good, jus depend on how much u wanna spend and whether u jus want new parts. Like me, whenever i replace somehtin, i replace the WHOLE thing. THat being sd, U dont have to replace the control arm unless it looks rusted and ****ty or its cracked. If it still look good then replace tha bushing and call it day.
Iight thanks.. Because the control arm isnt terrible but the bushing is shot.. I get some what of a shake and I feel a click when I stop and go.. What website would you recommend to order the bushing?
Old 04-21-2011 | 02:50 PM
  #7104  
RoseCityMax's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 15
From: Portland, OR
Originally Posted by cashoit
It all depends on your location, how much u tryin to spend, how low u trying to go, and what kind of ride u want either very sporty or stock-like. Once these questions are answered, we can provide options for setups that are available.

THe blues will give u a soft comfortable ride, better handling over stock. Some ppl dont like that cuz they want a firm sporty ride with even increased handling like KYB give u. But KYB get harsh in the winter months. Neither one of these setups are good for drops greater than 2". Thats why i say answer those questions first then we can really begin
Im not too worried about having a sporty ride - def more towards improved stock. The Tokicos sounds like my struts especially since I am in the Northwest. As far as the springs - Im not trying to drop any more than 2". I have been on the Tokico site and looking into the whole set of Blues(struts/springs) P/N(HPK245). Im not sure if the springs that come with the set drop at all, but the lowering springs that are available say 1.5". Any other springs to suggest?
Old 04-21-2011 | 05:33 PM
  #7105  
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I no this post is not for asking questions but i reallly need help i have a 95 maxima and the clock and the speakers inthe car stopped working i changedthe fuse because the old one was burnt out and it still doesnt wor all you hear in the car is the antenna motor and thats about it the radio powers on but there is no sound coming out the speakers any body no the problem or how i can fix it thanks ........
Old 04-22-2011 | 11:31 AM
  #7106  
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Originally Posted by cashoit
A camber kit is required for drops over 2". For that mild drop u suggesting dont need em. U can buy new camber bolts if u want...they only $12 depending on where u buy. KYB-GR2 will work with those springs but KYB dont ride nice in the winter cold. Keep that in mind. Your setup is more on the sporty side,
meaning the handling will be good, but it might hit a lil harder
than u or SHE wants.
That's ok. I don't care if it's alittle rough. If it handles good. I got a strut bar in now, helps alittle.
Old 04-23-2011 | 10:11 AM
  #7107  
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From: Quebec
thanks alot! =D
Old 04-23-2011 | 08:24 PM
  #7108  
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From: orange county, ca.
hi, i just got a 99 130t auto and it has 122k miles.

from a stop, slow accel brings a buzz or vibration from up front, could this be the vlsd?

thanks for any help!
Old 04-25-2011 | 11:21 AM
  #7109  
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Bad knock sensor

Hi guys,

I have a 1995 Maxima that stalls randomly. After doing some research on this site i found the issue may point to a faulty Knock Sensor. I took a picture of it and it looks like it may be cracked.

The pic is located here:

http://i760.photobucket.com/albums/xx245/jpersico3/DSCN0350.jpg

Can someone confirm that it looks cracked and if this could cause the stalling problem? I need to get a new one before I take this one out.


Thanks in advance for your help!

Joe
Old 04-26-2011 | 08:39 AM
  #7110  
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Originally Posted by jpersico3
Hi guys,

I have a 1995 Maxima that stalls randomly. After doing some research on this site i found the issue may point to a faulty Knock Sensor. I took a picture of it and it looks like it may be cracked.

The pic is located here:
http://i760.photobucket.com/albums/xx245/jpersico3/DSCN0350.jpg

Can someone confirm that it looks cracked and if this could cause the stalling problem? I need to get a new one before I take this one out.

Thanks in advance for your help!
Joe
A crack in the cover doesn't guarantee that the knock sensor is bad. What you need to do is see if the ECU has a trouble code stored in it. The code for the knock sensor is P0325 (0304 if you look at the lights on the ECU). Start by checking the ECU and go from there.
Old 04-26-2011 | 11:23 AM
  #7111  
brobeau's Avatar
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Posts: 27
Anyone have any experience with Hitachi ignition coils? I see Hanshin and Mitsu talked about on here but nothing about Hitachi. I can get a new one for a good price locally and I need to replace my bank 1 coil. Thanks!
Old 04-26-2011 | 11:54 AM
  #7112  
cashoit's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 4,011
From: Worcester, MA
Originally Posted by jynx31k
Iight thanks.. Because the control arm isnt terrible but the bushing is shot.. I get some what of a shake and I feel a click when I stop and go.. What website would you recommend to order the bushing?

Hit up the local parts store. Autozone or advanced always got a good brand if not going with OEM.
Old 04-26-2011 | 01:25 PM
  #7113  
cashoit's Avatar
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From: Worcester, MA
Originally Posted by RoseCityMax
Im not too worried about having a sporty ride - def more towards improved stock. The Tokicos sounds like my struts especially since I am in the Northwest. As far as the springs - Im not trying to drop any more than 2". I have been on the Tokico site and looking into the whole set of Blues(struts/springs) P/N(HPK245). Im not sure if the springs that come with the set drop at all, but the lowering springs that are available say 1.5". Any other springs to suggest?
Listen man, if u want to go lower than 2" u NEED coilovers otherwise u jus gonna blow any strut u buy. Im not recommended a drop that aggressive, but its ur ride so it yur decision.

The drop that comes with the blues is good IMO, dont need to go no lower.

TEIN S techs will get u low aroind 2" (IIRC 1.8" fronts) but u will need AGX's or Illuminas. Ur prolly still gonna blow those struts too and i hear S techs ride like shyt. Maybe KONIS will hold up, but i doubt that too. Its up to u man. With drops that low, expect to replace axles at least once a year too. Jus a lil side note ...
Old 04-26-2011 | 01:27 PM
  #7114  
cashoit's Avatar
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Posts: 4,011
From: Worcester, MA
Originally Posted by JOziahBOwen
I no this post is not for asking questions but i reallly need help i have a 95 maxima and the clock and the speakers inthe car stopped working i changedthe fuse because the old one was burnt out and it still doesnt wor all you hear in the car is the antenna motor and thats about it the radio powers on but there is no sound coming out the speakers any body no the problem or how i can fix it thanks ........
Did u recently replace the factory radio. Make sure all unused wires are taped off. Also, make sure the proper ground is used for the radio. Use the wire marked off chassis ground.
Old 04-26-2011 | 01:29 PM
  #7115  
cashoit's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 4,011
From: Worcester, MA
Originally Posted by demonics12
hi, i just got a 99 130t auto and it has 122k miles.

from a stop, slow accel brings a buzz or vibration from up front, could this be the vlsd?

thanks for any help!
Could be a bunch of different things. Need wayyy more info. just take it to a mechanic unless u plan on repairing yurself. Chances are, its suspension related like a bad CA bushing and u aint doin that urself unless u got good automotive knowledge.
Old 04-26-2011 | 01:30 PM
  #7116  
cashoit's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 4,011
From: Worcester, MA
Originally Posted by jpersico3
Hi guys,

I have a 1995 Maxima that stalls randomly. After doing some research on this site i found the issue may point to a faulty Knock Sensor. I took a picture of it and it looks like it may be cracked.

The pic is located here:

http://i760.photobucket.com/albums/xx245/jpersico3/DSCN0350.jpg

Can someone confirm that it looks cracked and if this could cause the stalling problem? I need to get a new one before I take this one out.


Thanks in advance for your help!

Joe
i gotta disagree with dennis. Mine was cracked when i replaced it and i was completely shot. But he is right, check codes to be certain its dead.
Old 04-26-2011 | 05:38 PM
  #7117  
Dwolniak's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 60
I just got a 12 inch pioneer sub and amp. all works well and just trying to wire to my car. i got a high/low independance adapter for the headunit. will that work for the bose headunit?(my friend used it on his versa stock headunit) and for wiring the sub to the back speaker, do i just wire it to the red and green wires? does the ampilier going to effect anything?
Old 04-27-2011 | 10:36 PM
  #7118  
demonics12's Avatar
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From: orange county, ca.
Originally Posted by cashoit
Could be a bunch of different things. Need wayyy more info. just take it to a mechanic unless u plan on repairing yurself. Chances are, its suspension related like a bad CA bushing and u aint doin that urself unless u got good automotive knowledge.
thanks for the help, my tech is going to look at it tomorrow and see whats up. would this be accompanied by shaking under hard accel? or could that just be wheel hop?

im thinking bad engine mount, based on what my experience tells me, well see i guess...

anyone tried the tockico shock/spring combo? i want to maintain my ride and bring the car down just a little, if any drop will kill my ride, then im not interested...
Old 04-28-2011 | 07:56 PM
  #7119  
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many many codes

I got codes for a bad knock, cam, crankshaft and water temp sensors.

Should I replace them all or could one cause the others.

It looks like the knock sensor is cracked but not sure it I should replace all of them or not.

Thanks
Joe
Old 04-28-2011 | 09:54 PM
  #7120  
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From: orange county, ca.
tech said the passenger side engine mount rubber is collapsed, anyone have any good luck with aftermarket mounts?

id like to go oem, but i dont have a discount with nissan


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