Yesterday I cleaned the throttle body, replaced my fuel filter and put some injector cleaner in. I haven't driven it enough to work the the injector cleaner through yet. There was frost on the ground this morning and I was hoping the two fixes would do it but she still turns over but won't start . Will let you know if the fuel injector cleaner helps. Any other possibilities?

 

I've located the general area that it's located (oil filter, pulley, etc.) and I double checked the code from the ECU and it's 0407. I'm having trouble finding it exactly. I think I may have though. How many wires is the sensor? Is it the one clearly visible just a few inches to the right of the oil filter?

 

You're looking for the wrong sensor. There are two crankshaft sensors (ref & pos) Your code is for the POS sensor located in the bellhousing area. If you are looking underneath your car from the front it is to the right of the engine crossmember, the sub harness going to it makes a *180 bend before it plugs into the sensor. I have several, tested & fully functioning, $30 shipped, paypal is Kevgoods@hotmail.com However, make sure your battery and starting system is in proper order, long or rough cranking can trigger that code as well.

 

^^EDIT: I was going by the P code you gave in your original post, 0407 IS the reference sensor. Everything else I mentioned still applies, I have those sensors as well and rough starts can trip that code also. As for location, it is located directly underneath and slightly behind the crankshaft pulley, it won't be that hard to find once you look for the part that is drenched in gunky oily dirty crap. Also, for the 0407 ref code, make sure that the sensor tip is clean, along with the slots in the crank pulley that it reads from.

 

Thanks for the reply...yeah, I'm pretty sure I've found it, your description seems to confirm it.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...9&postcount=15

 

you can either get some new bulbs from the dealer, or you might be able to find them at radio shack and just reuse the mounting base. or try to find out what size they are and get them off ebay or something.

or just replace them with leds http://www.z3d.com/maxima/blueclimate.html

 

if it is just the belt then yes its an easy fix it may not just be tight enough, but you'll have to get in there and check.

or the pulley bearing could be going out. there is a write up around here on how to do it, if that is the case.

 

Good idea...if I had vise grips. However, i'm poor

I'm still building my tool collection, so I don't have a lot, just the basics. I will go tomorrow to pick some hydraulics up. Do they have them at Advanced Auto or just Autozone?

Also, does anyone have a scan or a picture of the fuse diagram under the steering wheel? I unfortunately don't have the little cover that normally has the decal on it. There are some lights on the inside of the car that are out and I think it's a fuse problem. (My Haynes manual is on the way, but I don't want to wait that long, as it's bothering me)

Regarding keyless entry:

I'm not sure it's called a fuse box, because they didn't look like fuses (Big noob here), but there is black box on the left-hand side of the car under the hood. On that was a decal explaining what was in the box, and one said "Keyless 2." So i checked that one, only to find that nothing occupied that spot. I'm guessing that means my car isn't prewired for keyless entry? Would that be difficult to install? Should I go aftermarket in this instance?

Thanks!

 

i actually figured out the problems, one of the fans located right behind the radiator has either gone bad or loose, im probably going to just end up replacing it. but it wobbles when i have the A/C on and it even wobbles when the car is at idle, so i need to replace is ASAP so it doesnt come off and destroy my radiator or something else. thank you for the input though!

 

if it has come loose theres always zip ties!

 

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The Bad:
1.Front shocks are going still very driveable
2. Front Brakes are going
3.Needs Suspension arm on passenger door (opens too wide makes noise when opening)
4.Muffler works fine but baffle inside is loose (makes rattle noise when car starts)
5.Hard start (cranks about 3 times when starting)
6.Front seats have some rips
7.Needs alarm remote trigger (for keyring)
8.Has a Fist size dent in panel right behind rear driver side door (see pics)

The Good:
1.168,000 miles
2.Runs real good
3.Interior in great shape
4.All power functions work perfect (radio,windows,sunroof,etc.)
5.New Battery
6.New Rear Stuts
7.New O2 sensors (front to back)
8.Just Inspected (2 years)

Looking to get rid of having a baby cant afford 3 cars & insurance for them.


$2800.00

 

i dunno i would wait if i were you. $2800 is a lot considering the miles and what is damaged/needs to be done.

is 2800 the asking price or did you get him down to that?
i would be looking to spend more like 21 or 2200, if not just wait for a better deal.

 

did you look at the pics
Im tryng to gauge a price for it....... u think 2200.00 is a fair price

 

yea i looked at the pics.

the leather rips are just going to get worse and will cost several hundred to fix.
that dent is pretty sizeable. plus, is there another dent behind the passanger rear door?
the hard start (this worries me), front brakes, front suspension, exhaust....all that stuff is going to add up quick.
i mean, conservatively, that stuff is well over $1000 right there. probably closer to 1500

-how is the tire tread on this car? 80%? 30%?
-the Check Engine Light works when the car is put into the ACC (2nd) position right? make sure no one "accidentally" broke it
-check all body panels for alignment and all screws behind door frames to see if theyve been moved....basically you are seeing if its been in an accident and repaired.
-have you carfaxed this yet?
-how do you know the o2 sensors have been replaced? he has the paperwork?
-ask the owner how long he has owned it and why he is selling it. watch not so much what he says, but how he says it; if he gets flustered trying to get the words outta his mouth. most owners arent expecting a question like that and dont have a prefabricated lie.

depends how you plan to use the car though. if you are just going to drive it into the ground and not care about how it looks then it would do the trick. but if you plan on putting money into it to make it look/run perfect, then you should NOT buy this and continue looking. either way i woudlnt pay 2800. i would offer 2200 or 2000 and see what he does. dont agree to more than 2500 if you get into negotiations.

have you been looking in the 4th gen or regional classifieds on here?

i see lots of maximas in the tri state area, especially the outer boroughs of NYC.

also, autotrader.com helped me out a lot. i set up a thing where it would email me whenever a new car that fit my specs (95-01 nissan maxima, under 5k, auto tranny) would be posted. i ended up getting my new ride off craigslist.org though.



i feel your pain about this. in august, after 2 months of looking, i bought a super clean, mechanically and cosmetically perfect 96 GLE for $3700 (141k) and then got into a hit and run collision three weeks later. only thing it needed was 4 tires.
had to wait for the insurance check and then began to look all over again...i ended up lucking out at the last minute (night before my rental car expired) but its because i didnt buy all the maximas i "sort of wanted".

good luck. dont hesitate to ask questions.

 

ok upon closer inspection i see that the CEL (check engine light) is ON in one of the pictures. you need to find out what that is and reply back on here before making any kind of decision. go to Autozone or some friendly mechanic and they should be able to tell you for FREE.

this deal seems to be gettin worse and worse. i would continue to look at this point.

 

I think you think Im trying to buy this car.NO......Im trying to gauge a price for my aunt.
My aunt took the car to the dealer to get a recall done on the car for the 02 sensors...she has paper work for that.While it was there she had it checked & the dealer told her CEL light is on because knock sensor needed to be replaced.

The cel light is on dealer says its the knock sensor.

So you guys think $2200.00 is a fair price to sell the car for ?

 

oh........
i didnt understand this sentence until now:
"Looking to get rid of having a baby cant afford 3 cars & insurance for them"

yea. ask 2500. be prepared to take 23 or 2200. for show, buy some 15$ seat covers. have the CEL cleared (knock sensor doesnt trip the CEL, its something else as well). spend a saturday washing and cleaning the car.

 

-how is the tire tread on this car? 80%? 30%? Id say they are about 40%

-how do you know the o2 sensors have been replaced? he has the paperwork? yes from dealer

the leather rips are just going to get worse and will cost several hundred to fix. understandable

-ask the owner how long he has owned it and why he is selling it ? My aunt has 3 cars on her insurance & doesnt really drive this car anymore its the only reason she selling it & due to the fact she recently got an acura.


Just trying to gauge a fair price to sell this car for my aunt.She wanted to start with $2800.00 but I didnt think the car was worth $2800.00 just trying to see what others think you know.

 

Please, somebody take a look at Msg #953 and reply. I talked to the Courtesy Nissan service manager and he "hasn't got a clue."
(Man, this inability to start a dedicated thread is buggin' the c**p outta me...)

Kartiste
"Carry On, and Dread Nought"

 

-good idea on the seat covers !

-How would you clear the cel light I dont want try to trick anybody I know that the cel light is on only because of the knock sensor (according to the dealers paperwork)

-Just had the car detailed (pics dont do justice)

 

http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecu.html (Resetting it is near the bottom, but the beginning tells you where to find it.)

As ROCKART said the knock sensor will throw the code but won't trip the Check Engine Light.

 

no. dont do the screw method. go to your local dealership at a non-busy time and ask a tech to run the codes for you, then ask him to clear them. offer him 5 bux if he looks hesitant. you can also get it done at AAMCO for free. or your neighborhood mechanic.

 

if you are having ethical issues with clearing the CEL, then have the tech print out the codes being thrown and have that handy for when your next potential customer is viewing the car. i wouldnt mention the knock sensor right off the bat. first of all thats a "ghost code" (only shows when something else is tripping) and also any average driver is going to get quoted 300-400 dollars for a KS replacement because 99% of mechanics out there insist on removing the manifold to get to the valley. it can be done with 30 minutes and an extension + u joint (www.motorvate.ca if you want to do it yourself - the part costs about $70).
and yes, again, it is going to be something else besides the knock sensor. you should find out what that is and adjust the price accordingly. if i had to guess, its still the o2 sensors. either done incorrectly or not all of them were replaced (when one fails, the others fail soon after due to the extra load).
2k is about as low as i would go with this car, but i think 2500 is a bit high.

 

When they clear the cel light does it come back on ?

 

yea but not for a couple of days or a week. depends on what the problems are.

for example - this happened to me.
i bought my new car a month ago with the CEL on. i took it to a nissan tech on a dead saturday and asked him to run the codes. i got two: one was the notoriously faulty knock sensor and second was the charcoal canister valve in the fuel system. i asked him to clear the CEL to see how long it took before it came back on. today, 10-29, it has yet to return. i know the KS will never trip the CEL, so ive been pretty much waiting for the cannister valve to start acting up and throw the code again. it has not, and im in the process of trying to figure out how it corrected itself (i started running premium gas??)

 

Ill give this a try ....but on the east coast getting a dealer to do a freebie on anything is next to impossible !

What is the problem with doing the screw method ?

 

if you are super careful and precise then you can do the screw method. i looked at it once and decided id rather drive to someone with a scanner. if you over turn the screw you can cause a variety of problems with the ECU. i dont know from experience, but ive read several times on here about people messing up the procedure and having problems afterward. in my mind the screw method is only for people who have to drive 70 miles to their nearest mechanic. you live in jersey from what i assume by lookin at the plate, theres gotta be 20 mechanics in a 10 mile radius from you. im sure one will take 5 bux to run and clear the codes.

im actually was born and raised in NYC so im familiar with the car-scamming scene around there. i actually used to take my volvo (my first car) up into connecticut to get it serviced by a family friend. i dont know about jersey tho. my mom takes her car to summit, nj if i remember correctly. that place is run by dealerships and mechanics.

 

Autozone check codes on cars for free....Do you think they would also clear codes.....Is that just as easy to do as it is to read codes ?

 

yea.
and yes its just as easy to clear codes. i dont know the name of the two machines, but dealerships and mechanics use nicer, more expensive computers to read the ECU. autozone uses the 25 dollar ones you can get at sears. plus the nice readers tend to give you a little more information about what is going on.

this is a poorly drawn conclusion, but the person i bought my car from said they had had the CEL cleared (at autozone) in the past and its just come back on in a day or two.

then i buy the car, drive to the dealership, have him print the codes and then clear them in his $8000 ECU reader and the CEL hasnt been back on since.

not sure if it makes a difference, or its the 93 octane i been running since, but its somehting to think about.
just go to a dealership and some reliable mechanics and offer them a 5 dollar bill to run and clear the codes. if they all say no or ask you for more money, THEn go to autozone.

 

OK I have a automatic '97 - There is some kind or switch, from what I understand, that allows the car to recognize that it is in park. Now before, if I just jiggled the shifter a bit it would start, now it wont start even with a good shake. What I am needing to know is if anyone else has had this problem and if its easily fixed. Also if someone could let me know the name for this specific switch. (Or could this be something else??? I mean the battery is new, the alternator is new, starter is 2 yrs old) Please let me know, I feel lost without my car!


-Michelle

 

For the Time being the car will start in neutral So see if the switch will recognize the shifter in the "N" position, Its alot of work to get down there to find the switch, and to possibly discover that it might be something else

 

I did the screw method yesterday for the first time, and it was pretty easy, the screw turns with pretty much no resistance, so when you hit the stop it's pretty obvious, just need to be gentle with your turning. I would recommend using a sharp knife to cut/pull the protective sticker away from the screw completely, so you don't mistake resistance from the sticker remnants as being the stop.

 

anyone know if a 97-99 armrest will work in a 95-96? thanks

 

if you are talking about the front central armrest, then the answer is yes. i put a 96 GLE one on my 97 GLE about two weeks ago. cost me $2.99. junkyard for the MFW #!

 

give dave b a call at south point nissan (his number is in the stickies). he'll help you out. but i suspect it'll bolt up just fine using the new parts.

how did touching a magnet to it screw it up?

 

How come the sticky links dont work?.... the how to? incorrect links

 

its probably just the park/neutral switch. you can try starting the car in neutral. in a friends car you had to slam the shifter into park to be able to restart it in park

 

read the anouncements at the top of the forum. since the upgrade and transfer to access old threads, like the ones in the stickies, copy the link and replace "show" with "old" and it'll take you to the right link

 

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