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Old 02-27-2008 | 07:16 AM
  #1361  
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Heater works on 1,2, and 3

I have recently started to use my heater and notice that it works only on 1,2, and 3. When it gets to 4 it just blows out the same as setting 3. I have also notice that if the car is cold I will hear a ticking sound when the heat is set to blow thru the top vents. When it is on the feet and top vents it does not tick as well as the main defrost. However on all the other settings I get that same ticking noise. Can anyone advise what is going on with both of these problems. I have searched the org but have not seen anything.

Thanks in advance.

Last edited by btbrown; 02-27-2008 at 11:04 AM.
Old 02-27-2008 | 08:34 AM
  #1362  
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Originally Posted by black_maxed95
hmmm...guess they are making a new site again.

Perhaps I am dumb, but I can't find anything on their site.

Zack
Old 02-27-2008 | 08:40 AM
  #1363  
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just call them. the site kinda sucks
Old 02-27-2008 | 08:43 AM
  #1364  
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plus it now says "site under construction"
Old 02-27-2008 | 09:19 AM
  #1365  
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Ok the Y pipe is done, but any other suggestions about the remainder of the exhaust?

Thanks,
Zack
Old 02-27-2008 | 11:11 AM
  #1366  
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Originally Posted by btbrown
I have recently started to use my heater and notice that it works only on 1,2, and 3. When it gets to 4 it just blows out the same as setting 3. I have also notice that if the car is cold I will hear a ticking sound when the heat is set to blow thru the top vents. When it is on the feet and top vents it does not tick as well as the main defrost. However on all the other settings I get that same ticking noise. Can anyone advise what is going on with both of these problems. I have searched the org but have not seen anything.

Thanks in advance.
it could be the blower resistor, but usually in that case the fan only works on 4
Old 02-27-2008 | 11:13 AM
  #1367  
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Originally Posted by caseymaxima
Ok the Y pipe is done, but any other suggestions about the remainder of the exhaust?

Thanks,
Zack
depends how much louder you want it. start listening to the exhaust clips, in the exhaust clip thread.
there is still the b-pipe and muffler you can swap out.
Old 02-27-2008 | 01:34 PM
  #1368  
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Originally Posted by gen4maxima536
depends how much louder you want it. start listening to the exhaust clips, in the exhaust clip thread.
there is still the b-pipe and muffler you can swap out.

Ok thanks thus far everyone. NOw for the B pipe and muffler, I did read the FAQ Exhaust thread and and I don't want a loud exhaust at all. I know that the Budget Y pipe will be a bit louder, but that about as loud as I want to go. So what do you all reccomend for the B pipe and muffler? Where should I get it? Again I don't want to hurt performance, I just don't want it loud and I don't want to drop tons of cash.

Thanks,
Zack
Old 02-27-2008 | 02:34 PM
  #1369  
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Originally Posted by caseymaxima
Ok thanks thus far everyone. NOw for the B pipe and muffler, I did read the FAQ Exhaust thread and and I don't want a loud exhaust at all. I know that the Budget Y pipe will be a bit louder, but that about as loud as I want to go. So what do you all reccomend for the B pipe and muffler? Where should I get it? Again I don't want to hurt performance, I just don't want it loud and I don't want to drop tons of cash.

Thanks,
Zack
your going to want a b-pipe that has a resonator on it. then for a muffler is you want quiet, stick with stock or you could weld up a 5th gen muffler, would just need to trim the bumper a little to make it look good
Old 02-27-2008 | 02:42 PM
  #1370  
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Originally Posted by gen4maxima536
your going to want a b-pipe that has a resonator on it. then for a muffler is you want quiet, stick with stock or you could weld up a 5th gen muffler, would just need to trim the bumper a little to make it look good

Ok perfect then I will stick with the stock parts from the cat back, including the B-pipe and resonator. I guess I should give Napa a call? Is there anyplace else to get the stock exhaust that has good prices? Below is a link to a stock system that I found on Ebay for $125.00, any ideas on the ebay system? Is it trash? It seems like a good price?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-19...spagenameZWDVW

Zack
Old 02-27-2008 | 03:24 PM
  #1371  
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Originally Posted by ROCKART
yea tires could definitely be an issue. they could be out of balance, or just have a flat spot from sitting too long in one place.
how long have you had the tires?
have you left the car sitting for a long period of time?

have you gotten them balanced?

do you feel a pulsing when you apply the brake gently?






you can get a brand new stainless Y pipe for 235 shipped to your door.

the place i would recommend is www.budgetexhaust.com

there are other options, warpspeed Y and cattman Y, but both of those have their drawbacks. i think the overall concensus on this site is that budget has the best product for the money.


however with these aftermarket y pipes, you will be removing your two forward cats, which will hurt your emissions before the car is fully warmed. i dunno what state youre in, but you will fail emissions testing unless you let your car warm up a good while before it is tested.

if you want just a stock Y pipe, you can get them for 100-150 shipped off from members here.
i might have one for sale in the next month as well.
The tires were balanced not long ago. the car never stayed for a long period of time. alignment was done. no pulsing or anything. and as I said tires look like they're in good condition.just the freaking noise. Anyway I will put a different wheel and see if it makes a difference. but could there be something else besides the tires and bearing making such noise ?
Old 02-27-2008 | 05:08 PM
  #1372  
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Hi everyone,
I just spoke with a friend about the "BUdget brand" Y pipe and he thinks that I would be nuts to use a part that does not have the two factory cats. How big a deal is it in terms of a smog test? Here in NJ they don't use an exhaust probe, they only use the OBD II plug? Will the Budget Y pipe mess with the two o2 sensors? ANd also does it matter if my car is a CA or fed spec car in terms of getting the Budget Y pipe? I think I have a Federal spec car, but it's toooo cold outside to go check.


Thanks,
Zack
Old 02-27-2008 | 08:35 PM
  #1373  
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92 Maxima GXE Door Locks

I have a 1992 Maxima GXE my door locks from time to time wont open when I insert the key. The car is Power everything and I have had to enter through trunk to open the door. Once inside the car starts fine but power locks wont respond to key or door lock switch. what can be the p[roblem to this I am lost

Originally Posted by caseymaxima
Hi everyone,
I just spoke with a friend about the "BUdget brand" Y pipe and he thinks that I would be nuts to use a part that does not have the two factory cats. How big a deal is it in terms of a smog test? Here in NJ they don't use an exhaust probe, they only use the OBD II plug? Will the Budget Y pipe mess with the two o2 sensors? ANd also does it matter if my car is a CA or fed spec car in terms of getting the Budget Y pipe? I think I have a Federal spec car, but it's toooo cold outside to go check.


Thanks,
Zack
Old 02-27-2008 | 08:41 PM
  #1374  
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hey im looking at buying a maxima an was wonder wether there was any difference between the 1995-1999 year for aftermarket parts and if anyone perfers a certain year....
also i was wonder what a good full exhaust would be with little to no modification i know the cattmans are excellent but i was looking for something a little cheaper


thanks casey
Old 02-27-2008 | 09:20 PM
  #1375  
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Originally Posted by cfiggs
hey im looking at buying a maxima an was wonder wether there was any difference between the 1995-1999 year for aftermarket parts and if anyone perfers a certain year....
also i was wonder what a good full exhaust would be with little to no modification i know the cattmans are excellent but i was looking for something a little cheaper


thanks casey
did you look in the exhaust thread yet? 95-99 are the same. Aftermarket parts are the same thoughout. 95-96 have less for tail lights really but you can swap trunks and lights and stuff with 97-99. Just find something in good condition with good mileage and don't concern yourself on aftermarket parts.
Old 02-27-2008 | 09:21 PM
  #1376  
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Originally Posted by caseymaxima
Hi everyone,
I just spoke with a friend about the "BUdget brand" Y pipe and he thinks that I would be nuts to use a part that does not have the two factory cats. How big a deal is it in terms of a smog test? Here in NJ they don't use an exhaust probe, they only use the OBD II plug? Will the Budget Y pipe mess with the two o2 sensors? ANd also does it matter if my car is a CA or fed spec car in terms of getting the Budget Y pipe? I think I have a Federal spec car, but it's toooo cold outside to go check.


Thanks,
Zack
you need to know if you're fed or cali. It's a different pipe. As long as your car is hot it will pass emissions. You're friend is wrong. Getting rid of the pre cats is what gives you more power.
Old 02-27-2008 | 09:22 PM
  #1377  
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Originally Posted by Bronx Borikua
I have a 1992 Maxima GXE my door locks from time to time wont open when I insert the key. The car is Power everything and I have had to enter through trunk to open the door. Once inside the car starts fine but power locks wont respond to key or door lock switch. what can be the p[roblem to this I am lost
this is the 4th gen forum not 3rd gen. Go into the 3rd gen forum.
Old 02-28-2008 | 03:47 AM
  #1378  
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Originally Posted by Cdg2125
you need to know if you're fed or cali. It's a different pipe. As long as your car is hot it will pass emissions. You're friend is wrong. Getting rid of the pre cats is what gives you more power.

I can tell if it is FED or Cali by looking at the label on the underside of the hood correct? Is there any other way to tell? So the bottom line is when I call Budget Exhaust in Canada, just tell them either Fed or Cali?


Thanks,
Zack
Old 02-28-2008 | 03:48 AM
  #1379  
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Originally Posted by caseymaxima
Ok perfect then I will stick with the stock parts from the cat back, including the B-pipe and resonator. I guess I should give Napa a call? Is there anyplace else to get the stock exhaust that has good prices? Below is a link to a stock system that I found on Ebay for $125.00, any ideas on the ebay system? Is it trash? It seems like a good price?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-19...spagenameZWDVW

Zack

Bump on the Ebay exhaust? Do you think it is good or garbage?

Thanks,
Zack
Old 02-28-2008 | 03:52 AM
  #1380  
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Steering wheel movement?

Hi everyone,
Another question on my 96 with 104,000 miles. I have noticed that the steering wheel will move or saw side to side a bit when you take your hands of the wheel (only at slow speeds of course). I would say that it is like a shaking, buit it is not a violent shaking at all. It seems to me that the alignment is ok, and the car tracks straight. It has never been in an accident. Any ideas as to what would cause the above issue?

Thanks,
Zack
Old 02-28-2008 | 03:56 AM
  #1381  
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Emergency brake sticking, usually when very cold.

Another noobbbbb question.. Lately the emergency brake has been sticking on my 96. It seems like it is locking up the drivers side rear wheel. It seems to only do this when very cold out side. I know that when it is cold and wet you should leave the brake off because the cable could freeze, but even when it is dry it still does it. I can notice that when it happens I can actually feel that the tension is gone from the emg brake handle, like it is very easy to pull. When you drive a bit (with the brake sticking) it will free up. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Zack
Old 02-28-2008 | 06:26 AM
  #1382  
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Originally Posted by caseymaxima
Bump on the Ebay exhaust? Do you think it is good or garbage?

Thanks,
Zack
I don't vote garbage, but here is an affordable, good sounding unit:

Cattman B pipe, stock 5th gen rear piece.
Old 02-28-2008 | 06:27 AM
  #1383  
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Originally Posted by caseymaxima
Another noobbbbb question.. Lately the emergency brake has been sticking on my 96. It seems like it is locking up the drivers side rear wheel. It seems to only do this when very cold out side. I know that when it is cold and wet you should leave the brake off because the cable could freeze, but even when it is dry it still does it. I can notice that when it happens I can actually feel that the tension is gone from the emg brake handle, like it is very easy to pull. When you drive a bit (with the brake sticking) it will free up. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Zack
This may be 1 of 2 items.

1.) Your eBrake cable may need adjustment. http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...22&postcount=2

Or

2.) You may need a new caliper. Quite common on the 4th gen. Disassemble the rear brake assembly and greases the caliper sliding pins. If that does not work, you probably need a new one.
Old 02-28-2008 | 06:28 AM
  #1384  
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Originally Posted by caseymaxima
Hi everyone,
Another question on my 96 with 104,000 miles. I have noticed that the steering wheel will move or saw side to side a bit when you take your hands of the wheel (only at slow speeds of course). I would say that it is like a shaking, buit it is not a violent shaking at all. It seems to me that the alignment is ok, and the car tracks straight. It has never been in an accident. Any ideas as to what would cause the above issue?

Thanks,
Zack
I would say LCA bushings or, worst case, a new steering rack. Inspect the pieces in question, then post back.
Old 02-28-2008 | 06:48 AM
  #1385  
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I have an AutoScanner that I am going to use to check out why my 'check engine' light is on on my 98 Maxima. Does anyone know where on the car this would plug into and how easy it is to reset the light?
Old 02-28-2008 | 06:56 AM
  #1386  
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Originally Posted by chrisdc
I have an AutoScanner that I am going to use to check out why my 'check engine' light is on on my 98 Maxima. Does anyone know where on the car this would plug into and how easy it is to reset the light?
http://forums.maxima.org/member.php?u=50807
Old 02-28-2008 | 06:58 AM
  #1387  
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
I would say LCA bushings or, worst case, a new steering rack. Inspect the pieces in question, then post back.

LCA bushinmgs?


Zack
Old 02-28-2008 | 07:01 AM
  #1388  
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lower control arm bushings.

energy suspension sells polyurithane ones for 35-50 bux, depends on how you want it shipped.


is your valve cover leaking? this is a likely cause of failing LCA bushings. oil drips on the bushings and in turn they collect sand and crap from the road and slowly grind themselves down.
Old 02-28-2008 | 07:36 AM
  #1389  
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Originally Posted by ROCKART

is your valve cover leaking? this is a likely cause of failing LCA bushings. oil drips on the bushings and in turn they collect sand and crap from the road and slowly grind themselves down.
Even more common is the PS fluid line leaking onto the bushing causing it to go out. If he were to do as I instructed (inspect pieces in question), he will have more information for us, thus not needing for us to be shooting blanks in the dark.
Old 02-28-2008 | 07:44 AM
  #1390  
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Even more common is the PS fluid line leaking onto the bushing causing it to go out. If he were to do as I instructed (inspect pieces in question), he will have more information for us, thus not needing for us to be shooting blanks in the dark.
its funny you say that.

on top of my valve cover seeping oil (minimal loss though, less then 1/4 qt in 3 months) my PS fluid is also seeping. i havent even bothered checking where yet tho, for now my priority is the valve cover gasket.

however my nissan tech had it up on the lift last weekend and mentioned the LCA bushings were dying and he recommended replacing them.

how is it the PS fluid is detroying them? is it corrosive to that material?
or is it the same reason regular motor oil is damaging - because it allows debris to collect in the joints?
Old 02-28-2008 | 09:32 AM
  #1391  
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Originally Posted by ROCKART
its funny you say that.

on top of my valve cover seeping oil (minimal loss though, less then 1/4 qt in 3 months) my PS fluid is also seeping. i havent even bothered checking where yet tho, for now my priority is the valve cover gasket.

however my nissan tech had it up on the lift last weekend and mentioned the LCA bushings were dying and he recommended replacing them.

how is it the PS fluid is detroying them? is it corrosive to that material?
or is it the same reason regular motor oil is damaging - because it allows debris to collect in the joints?

The PS Fluid I thinK is just regular auto trans fluid.

ZaCK
Old 02-28-2008 | 09:32 AM
  #1392  
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naw i put actual valvoline power steering fluid in
Old 02-28-2008 | 10:13 AM
  #1393  
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Originally Posted by ROCKART
naw i put actual valvoline power steering fluid in

I don't think that's what it calls for?

Zack
Old 02-28-2008 | 10:21 AM
  #1394  
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you can use ATF with no problem, but there is actual PS fluid made for power steering systems.
Old 02-29-2008 | 04:48 AM
  #1395  
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when turning the car makes a noise, coming from front end. replaced bushings, brakes, axles. Power steering fluid leak..not sure where coming from. Degreased engine (bottom as well) ..pressure washed..started car hour later and noticed ps fluid was bubbling out of reservoir cap. Is it the pump or something else?..no it was not overfilled..between hot and cold marks..forgot to say..drove it to test new axles..and then the car died after driving less than .5 mi. Would not restart..until jumped..would not hold charge. Did I wet something down I shouldn't of...why has it started no problem b4 and now dies while turning into driveway. BTW..this all happened in one day Thanks
Old 02-29-2008 | 08:46 AM
  #1396  
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Originally Posted by austone
when turning the car makes a noise, coming from front end. replaced bushings, brakes, axles. Power steering fluid leak..not sure where coming from. Degreased engine (bottom as well) ..pressure washed..started car hour later and noticed ps fluid was bubbling out of reservoir cap. Is it the pump or something else?..no it was not overfilled..between hot and cold marks..forgot to say..drove it to test new axles..and then the car died after driving less than .5 mi. Would not restart..until jumped..would not hold charge. Did I wet something down I shouldn't of...why has it started no problem b4 and now dies while turning into driveway. BTW..this all happened in one day Thanks
did you miss yourself saying bubbling out of the cap? If you have a leaking cap you need a new one.
Old 02-29-2008 | 02:40 PM
  #1397  
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when turning the car makes a noise, coming from front end. replaced bushings, brakes,

Yep bubling out of cap. Can an alternator just go bad? I didn't have any probs with the car starting until i pressure washed . I jumped it today and it started fine...turned the lights on and the car died....95 max 120000..thanks yaw..from the deep south
Old 02-29-2008 | 05:00 PM
  #1398  
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Check the wiring under the hood in and around the alternator area for signs of burned-ness and such. But yes, an alternator can just fail, mine did.
Old 03-01-2008 | 02:29 PM
  #1399  
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when turning the car makes a noise, coming from front end. replaced bushings, brakes,

Anyone know what size nut is on the idler pulley? I have almost everything lose but that....thanks working on it now..breaktime
Old 03-01-2008 | 02:31 PM
  #1400  
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Anyone know what size nut is on the idler pulley? I have almost everything lose but t

forgot to say 95 max


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