I think i will just sell my auto climate cause i just seen the forums u provided for me and its alot of work plus the pricing estimate is a bit on the crazy side.. thanks alot for the help and i check the clutch again once i get home.. is it a fix it urself kind thing??..

 

i went outside and started seeing how i would get it off. the hose clamps are like impossible! any idea how much a dealer would charge to do it? i wouldn't mind paying to have it done the right way

 

Search around, no one makes them. The instructions for making them are easily found.

If you're mechanically inclined and have the tools/time/knowledge, anything is a 'fix it urself' thing. It really depends on what's wrong with it.

The dealer will rape you on parts and labor, that's guaranteed. If anything, get it done at a regular shop.

What do you mean they're 'impossible'? Can't get pliers on them, they won't break free, what?

 

If you're mechanically inclined and have the tools/time/knowledge, anything is a 'fix it urself' thing. It really depends on what's wrong with it.


I kno a lil something here and there but i agree with you wit the anything is a fix it urself job. 1 last thing i came home checked under the hood and realized what ive been looking at isnt the resiviour is it possible u can direct me to it so 2morrow after work and pray it dnt rain that i can fix my clutch.. i really miss my maxima.. LOL

 

Next to the brake booster:

 

Does anyone know a website that tells me how to change stock 95 maxima headlights to halo lights?

 

FWIW angel eye's look like *** unless you have projectors.

From searching: http://www.geocities.com/jvxdriver/eagle_eyes.htm

and http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ngel-eyes.html

and http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...eadlights.html

and etc.

This is of course assuming you mean angel eye's when you say 'halo'.

 

pmohr, thanks for the help yesterday! SES light is gone.
EGR code might come back. is it a ghost code, or does it set off the SES light?

 

The only ghost code is for the KS.

 

Do all 99 SE-L's come with leather? i'm looking at one tonight, but i dont think it has leather. The car has the SE-L badge, but i know they are just a little stick on. any help would be great.

 

No, you could get an SE-L with cloth seats as well.

If you have the VIN, I can run it and see if it was an SE-L.

 

the VIN is
JN1CA21D2XT817344

 

Got a new problem.
My 95 maxima left turn singal doesn't work and my cd reciever flickers when the suns out.
Its sound weird, but i need help?

 

Actually now that I look at it, I don't believe you can tell an SE-L by it's VIN though FAST (since it wasn't an 'official' trim, but a last minute type of thing)...maybe ASIST can, but I don't have a copy of that.

Have you checked the bulb(s)? Do the hazards work on all 4 corners? Does the turn signal work only at the front or at the rear, or is it both?

CD receiver meaning a CD changer, or the head unit, what?

 

Ya, I've checked the bulbs, and the hazard lights work on all 4 corners. Its only when the suns out that both front and rear left turn signal wont work.
Its the head unit flickers to.

U got any ideas?

 

Only when the sun is out, or when it's warm? The sun should have zero effect on those systems, but heat could. So when they don't work, the hazards still flash them?

Could be a bad turn signal switch, best I can figure.

 

OK, got some new info that might help. it has nothing to do with the sun, anytime the light are on, the left turn signal works.Only if the lights are on, will it work.

 

does the p0400 egr code affect performance and/or gas mileage?

 

Pull and test the headlight stalk, I'm betting the issue is there.

It could, it the EGR valve were stuck open. If stuck closed, maybe a negligible MPG hit, but no performance issues.

 

When i let off my gas while i'm moving i almost always hear an audible "clunk" from under the car. When i put the car into reverse from park or drive it also goes clunk a lot of the time. I have changed my passenger side cv axle and maybe the drivers side needs changed too but would that cause this problem??? Also my control arms and tie rod ends may be bad if that might cause the problem. Just please don't tell me it's my transmission or this car is going on sale today. My friends maxima has similar problems. 1998 gxe 180,000 with brand spankin new front wheel bearings and a transmission rebuilt at 98k.

 

An axle could cause that noise, yes. Could also be motor mounts.

 

I HAVE A QUESTION I BOUGHT AN ADAPTER FOR A SHORT RAM INTAKE
I WANT TO KNOW WHAT I DO WITH THAT SENSOR INSIDE THE AIR BOX ?

 

Last night my ABS light came on and stayed on while I was driving , I didn't drive the car at all today so i don't know if its still there, but I'm pretty sure it is.


.....also I have the digital climate control= minimum 18 degrees , maximum 32...however I put it at 18 today and didn't feel a hint of cold air ...

...solutions ?

 

Stop yelling.

Did you search at all?

Short answer: It's the IAT. You don't need it.

For the ABS light, if it's still on, check the codes. See which sensor/harness/etc it's calling faulty.

For the climate control, did it work just fine yesterday? Ever had a problem with the AC system before?

 

Ok I'll check the codes tomorrow when its daytime ,

I live in Canada so I've never needed to use the AC because I started driving the car around October last year when it was cold and its still cold now , I just wanted to try it out seeing as Ive never used the cold air before ..the heat works perfectly..

 

How do you put on a avatar?

 

User CP - Edit Avatar.

 

Always there when i need you pmohr.

 

got my codes pulled yesterday and got these:

Knock Sensor 1
Auxilary Emission Control
Idle Air Control Temp Sensor

how hard is it to do the auxilary emission control? i've never heard of it before.

 

That's because that description means nothing. It's a generic description from a generic OBD-II scanner.

If you don't have the actual code, we can't help.

...and there is no IACT. There's an IACV and an IAT, that's it.

Post the actual codes, not useless descriptions.

 

Car barely runs and sounds like an out of tune diesel engine. Quick facts: '98 5spd, 180K miles, regular 30K services performed by me, no significant issues, got oil changed at Firestone 8 days ago, now car is in very bad shape. About 60 miles in to my 260 mile trip back home today I ran over a very small object with my FL tire. Thirty seconds later there was an odd rattling sound that quickly went away. A couple miles later the rattling returned and got much louder. Now the car rattles very badly and threatens to stall. No CEL's. Not safe to drive on freeway. Just paid $708 to have car towed home. After researching here on the org it seems like I may have lost hydraulic pressure to my timing chain tensioner which would cause the timing chain to slap around inside the cover like crazy. If this is related to bad 'anti-drain-back' on the oil filter due to Firestone putting on the wrong filter or putting it on too tight (or otherwise f$%#ing up), then I would certainly hope that they will help me resolve the issue. Any other suggestions on the VERY loud rattling sound and whether I should hold them accountable?

p.s. - I have searched the ORG for info on this and almost all of the posts refer the the brief timing chain noise at start up or the ticking noise that has annoyed many of us. But not so much on all out failures.

 

Well first, you did check the oil level, correct?

Following that, the ADBV wouldn't cause the tensioner to completely lose oil pressure. It's only there for the first startup, not engine operation. Also putting on the filter too tight won't cause any issues, just a hard time getting it back off.

Not to mention that the LF tire is nowhere near the oil filter or timing chain.

Have you given the car a visual inspection yet? Tried to track down where the sound is coming from?

 

Without getting into a lengthy explanation here I will try to give the meat and potatos and see what everyone thinks. If this is not in the correct area I appreciate Mr. moderator for moving it for me. Anyway a guy wants to trade me a 1995 nissan maxima se 5spd black on black leather with bose and sunroof. The body appears to be in very good condition and the interior also. He says it needs "nothing" mechanically and he just had the struts replaced with KYB's and a few other things. The car has 190k on it which doesn't scare me that much due to knowing maximas legendary reliability. What I want to know is are there some things I should specifically look for? I know every car has problem areas so I was just looking for some pointers. I don't expect a perfect car but don't want to get a problem either. Thanks for all of the input.

 

Yes, I tripple checked the oil level using the dipstick which indicated it at the correct level. However, when I removed the oil cap to see into the crankcase it did seem awfully dry in there. When I hit the object, which was about 1/2 inch tall and didn't move when I hit it, there was a surprisingly large jolt. My thought was that the jolt may have been the last straw on one of the components. I noticed a change in the feel of the transmission when I would go to shift, it felt as if I had lost clutch fluid as I did encounter that once four years ago, but that was repaired back then and the clutch fluid reservoir was full. The rattling does not sound rhythmic, it is more random and seems to be coming from the side of the engine with the timing chain cover on it. All of the possible reasons for this issue that came to my mind include:

-Oil pump failure (but no CEL)
-Loss in oil pressure (again, no CEL)
-Too much slack in timing chain
-Broken internal component that could cause a loud knocking sound (probably would have sounded much worse)

Firestone towed my car, at their expense, to their location so that they could determine if the work they did was to blame and ultimately what is wrong with the car. Naturally, they will do everything they can to keep from being held responsible but at least I should soon find out what is wrong. Once I hear back from them on what the problem is I will likely post it, the the quote for the repair, on here and then decide from there what to do based on the cost of the repair. I should know by later today.

 

Hey guys,

I am interested in buying an automatic 98 Maxima from a guy but the seller says he has a transmission problem:


"many repairs done but transmission slips (dealer can't find the cause).
it shifts hard from 1st the 2nd gear depending on how hard you press the gas.
It's auto.

Mechanically, there is 1 more O2 sensor that needs to be changed and there might be a hole in the muffler. I haven't driven it in some time but i started it last week and it sounds rough so i think it could be a hole in the muffler but I'm not sure."



How bad is it? will a new transmission fix this issue?
or can it be repaired? anybody familiar with this problem?
If yes how much for labor etc
ANY help/info is greatly appreciated,

Im going to see the car tonight

 

The only major thing that comes to mind is the diff bearings. They're prone to failure, and if they do, you're looking at a rebuilt or replacement trans.

If you shake the axle right where it enters the trans, and there's any noticeable play, they're bad.

Other than that though, check the codes, make sure it runs nice all over the powerband, give it a good visual inspection both above and below.

The first two won't throw a CEL, but they will illuminate the oil pressure light (assuming it's still connected).

Timing chain slack would be more of a constant sound, especially if the tensioner just outright died.

As far as a broken internal component...there are a few things that could cause a rattling sound as you experienced, so

Well hopefully it was Firestone's fault, but who knows.

Does it slip from first to second, or just shift hard? A 1st-2nd hard shift is quite common in the autos, especially with higher mileage and in the cold.

When does it slip? Starting off, flaring in between shifts, what?

Has he done any basic maintenance to the trans? What does the fluid look like?

Any codes?

Overall if you were to get a new trans, it would probably fix the problem (though without knowing exactly what it is, that's just a guess). Though you could probably get it going rather well just by dropping the pan, cleaning out the screen, and draining/refilling a couple times.

 

So, my saga continues with the strange and loud knocking/rattling sound coming from my engine. As expected, Firestone say it is not their fault. They are saying that the problem is either:
1. Collapsed lifter, or
2. Flat cam

To determine which of the two items is the culprit they say it would cost $450-500 to remove the top end, find the problem, and put the top end back on. If it is a collapsed lifter they threw out a rough amount of $1,000 and for the flat cam it would be 'a couple grand', which is on top of the $450-500 to R/R the top end. Total cost between $1500 and $3000 approximately.

So, obviously I'm not going to pay them to do what they suggested, as I see it my options are as follows:
1. Find a shop that can tear it town, find the problem, and fix it for as little dough as possible.
2. Find a local Maxima.org member that would would be capable, and interested, in helping me do the repair for fair compensation.
3. Find a used low-mileage engine (hopefully a DEK) and have a local shop put it in.
4. Find a low mileage used DEK, or possibly a VQ35, and put it in with the help of a local ORG member for fair compensation.
5. Sell it as is (I don't like this option)

So, I live in Wilsonville, Oregon, about 25 minutes South of Portland. Anyone out there interested in helping me figure out what's wrong? For those reading this post, do you think I can drive it without destroying the engine? I don't want to blow the engine on the freeway but I'm going to have to transport it somehow to wherever I am going to have it worked on which is yet to be determined. I sure hope this ends well; I love my Maxima.

 

Ok, I'm having issues with my A/C. Basically what is happening is when my car is under load the a/c blows warm air but when I am idle or going at a slow speed it blows very cold air. It also seems to be dependend on the temperature outside as when I was in cali and it wasnt too hot outside my ac would blow nice and cold air all the time but when I got back to AZ and its hot outside it blows warm air all the time unless I am idle. Also seems the compressor turns off and on and sometimes I can fix it by turning the A/C off and then back on but doesnt always work.

 

Thanks for the reply pmohr,
I am going to see the car in a couple hrs I'll get back to ya,
it has 200k KM on it, in the cold lol

When you maxima fellas mention "codes",
you mean the check engin codes?
Sorry I'm not too familiar with this yet.

So from what I'm reading, if it simply shifts hard from 1st to 2nd, some maintenance to the trans should do it, but if it is something more serious, so far with the info I gave ya we are assuming here that a new trans would do it correct?

Trying to calculate costs etc,
I am pretty interested in the car, he is asking 1350 neg

Thanks again

 

Well we don't have lifters, so scratch that. What everyone here calls 'lifters' (our shim buckets) aren't even physically capable of collapsing.

And the chances of wearing down a cam lobe near instantly is virtually impossible.

I would grab an automotive stethoscope and try to pinpoint exactly where this rattling sound is coming from, myself.

Yes, engine codes, or in context, trans codes.

If it's something more serious, that really depends on what it is, and what (if any) codes the trans is setting. Sometimes it's an easy fix with a set of solenoids, sometimes a TCM (relatively rarely), sometimes the trans is just plain toast.