Just like any other continuity test, one probe at the signal wire at the coil pack connector, the other probe at the signal wire at the ECU harness connector.

What do you mean at the wire end?

 

On the pigtail harness on the plug going to the CamPS, I tested continuity across the 2 leads of the plug (not sensor) and got nothing.

I'll check for the ECM harness location

 

There shouldn't be continuity on those, as they terminate at two separate pins on the ECU.

 

Ok, that makes sense. i'll check the continuity of each coil back to the ECM tonight.

What else should I check into regarding the no spark condition? Could it have anything to do with the ignition cylinder I replaced on the car? There is the factory security light blinking, but it goes off when I turn the keys making me think it is ok.

 

PMOHR PMOHR PMOHR!! Haha, I need your opinion on a small dilemma I have, but I'll start with the story in case you need to know background info.

I have had starting trouble for the past month or so, everyone once in a while the car will start then die after making a cranking sound, but when I try to start again it'll start after some hesitations like it sounds like it wants to die but it starts after going to a very low RPM.

And so yesterday I was dropping my nephew off at school, the car started just fine and drove like a dream. When I stopped for him to get off, I waited for like 10 minutes to make sure the teacher lead everyone to her class, and when I tried to start the car to leave, there was nothing. Not even the cranking sound you get when you start the car with a almost empty battery. It was silence, and the check lights don't restart when I turn the key to START either, you know how when you start the car with a dead battery it won't start but everything will reset? Like the doors will unlock then lock, the beeper will beep and such, but mine didn't do that.

Although I knew the battery was fine because all the lights worked and were strong, but I tried jump starting it just in case, and it started again. But when I took the jump cables off after leaving the car running to see if it would recharge something, it would not start again by itself. And after a while it sounded like the starter was slowly dieing like turning slower and slower. I knew it was either the starter, alternator, or battery, and the mechanic i called said it was most likely the alternator although I was leaning mostly towards the starter.

So I need your opinion, Pmohr. Master of Maxima's, haha. The mechanic said it was going to be an expensive job... and him telling me this already is not a good sign, ESSPECIALLY right after I got hit in the fender..... I have a bad feeling in my wallet

Sorry for the essay....... haha!

 

How do I match up the Courtesy PN with the number on the salvage ECU. I was talking to a guy that had several ECUs all of which start with something like A18..... I assume this is the number on the unit itself. He got all my info (SE, auto, non TCS, 10/98), but wasn't sure which was the one I needed. How do I know if I am getting an original 99 ECU (with the bug) or the revised ECU? I haven't gotten the number off of my ECU as it is still in the car. Sorry, I am still a little confused.

 

I'd definitely have the battery and charging system load tested, first thing. Most auto parts stores will do it for free.

Honestly I don't know of any cross-reference for ECU ID numbers and part numbers.

 

Do you have any recommendations on how to go about finding the revised ECU that will work with my car. Thanks!

 

I have to admit I'm a little confused about checking the continuity between the coil & ECM. Do I attach one lead to the connector for the coil and then another lead on the ECM harness inside the car in the console? I don't think mine will reach. Am I missing something?

 

Check with the dealer or Dave B, they might be able to cross reference the ID with a PN.

Yes, one lead at the coil side, one at the ECU side. Again, have you checked to make sure they even have power yet?

 

Yes, one lead at the coil side, one at the ECU side. Again, have you checked to make sure they even have power yet?[/quote]

Ok, I think I'll have to get longer leads for my voltmeter. Mine aren't long enough. Other than the continuity check, what else can I look into? I'm going to check the camPS for resistance.

 

You can look into whether or not the coils HAVE POWER. Seriously. Yes or no?

 

whats up guys i have a 95 maxima, which foglights can i use
i need the foglights that go in the bottom housings on the bumper
thanx

 

I assume you mean besides the stock fogs? I hope so, because that answer is just too obvious to ignore.

Otherwise, anything that fits.

 

I was able to check a lot of the items on the list and here is what I have:

I checked the coils and all 6 have 12.5V Power to them.
I checked the coil signal wire to the ECM and there is continuity for all.
I checked the continuity for the CKPS to the ECM and it is good for both wires.
I checked the power to the ECM and it is at 12.5V
Both CKPS & CamPS are within resistance spec & the ends have been cleaned off.

We hooked up the OBDII and were not able to read any codes.
I checked the codes manually and am getting a P0505 which is IACV. Don't think that could cause a no spark.

Could the ECM be bad? Is there a way to check it?

 

It's possible that the ECU is bad, but it's not very common. There's no real way to test it, except for putting another in and seeing if it fixes the problem.

The ECU doesn't require very many things to at least try to spark, notably both CKPS' and the CPS.

No, the IACV should have nothing to do with not getting spark.

Without being able to do anything physically with the car, my bet would be on wiring, the ECU, or something so retardedly simple that I just can't pick it out.

 

can a 97-99 Nissan Grill fit on a '95

 

i would check the injectors

 

Assuming you mean specifically a Maxima, and not some other 97-99 Nissan?

If so, did you search?
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...rill-swap.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ight-swap.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...rill-96-a.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ock-grill.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-fit-96-a.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-fit-95-a.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...onversion.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ille-95-a.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...99-grille.html

 

I have a problem with my drl module. My driver side headlight doesn't work at all and the drl buzzes like crazy when my headlights aren't on (only the passenger side one works though). It's been an intermittent problem for about 6 or so months and it's starting to drive me bananas. I've checked continuity between the driver headlight harness and the harness going into the drl but I'm not sure where to go from there. any ideas?
thanks

 

IIRC several members have disassembled their DRL modules, and have found problems internally. Probably the next thing to do.

 

I just opened it up and it looks fine. Everything is still very clean. Nothing looks out of the ordinary. Is there any way to ohm it out like an injector?

 

Are super cheap knock sensors ok? Or should I go with something from rockauto.com or the like?
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...fvi%3D1&_rdc=1

 

I'll check the FSM and get back to you on that one.

I've seen nothing to suggest that the cheap ones won't do the job just as well. There have been limited reviews, though.

FWIW You can get a BNIB OEM KS for right around $60 (USD) shipped on eBay. That's what most of us here use.

 

hello,
changed my tires 7 months ago and noticed my CV boot was split, not ripped. just a seam ripped down the whole outer fold of the boot is split well 7 months ago i knew nothing about my max and ignored it.now that i have put on my new rims and was reminded of this problem,i did some investigating via pinky finger and there are no holes in the boot, just this spilt. i am faced with this question.
can a new boot wait or is it causing unseeable damage and i need to replace it now? i know it should be changed, but im rather tight in the wallet and after i saved for these new tires im outa spare cash for a few weeks and i dont want to change it if its not a problem yet.
there is no noise when driving or turning.

 

So you're saying the whole boot split apart, right before it clamps to the outer housing? Because that's what it looks like, but then you say there are no holes

If the boot did come apart, and you know that it was 7 months ago, replace the axle. Don't just replace the boot.

It'll probably last for years to come just like this, but it's better to replace it whenever you can get around to it.

 

when i say no holes i mean into the inside of the boot.i guess i should ask it the inside of the boot is hallow?
if it is. there are no entrances into the inside of the boot that i could feel.
if not, well, i guess i realy do need to replace that.
but it is very nice to know its not an emergency, i can start buying 92octane again hah.
and alright. ill go to the one site everyone talks about on here. Raxels.com i do belive? i read about to many autozone horror storys.

 

Yes, the inside is hollow.

How is it split and yet there are no 'holes' or 'rips' in the boot? That's completely contradictory.

 

DOES NOT CRANK AT ALL!:

ī96 Maxima 3.0 QX (V6 24V Automatic) doesnīt crank at all. You turn the key and the ignition relay (on the fuse panel) can be heard. If you open the hood and turn the key I think you hear the INHIBIT Relay (before I thought it was the fuel pump relay).

I donīt think the problem is on the ignition switch because every single time I turn the key I hear the ignition relay. Everything else looks like to work fine (radio, fan, lights, ...) but the starter doesnīt want to kick. I am pretty sure the battery is fine and the A/Theft light also blinks as usual. The lights on the console are normal (airbag light goes off after some seconds, and the rest stays including the “engine check” light). I doubt it is the starter because I never had a problem with it before (always starts easily).

I had some problems with the grounding in the past but I do not think it is that, maybe I am wrong. I hope it is the inhibit relay but I do not know how to test it; with a multimeter maybe?, how?. Could it also be the fuel pump relay?, where is it located?.

Any ideas?, I am puzzled and I really need the car!. Thank you very much.

P.S I posted my question before, maybe in the wrong place, I am sorry.

 

.

FWIW, changing the font and size really only makes it a PITA when quoting and trimming posts. The default text here is perfectly readable, hence why it's the default.

 

It could very well be the inhibitor switch.

The inhibitor relay just prevents the car from cranking unless it's in Park or Neutral, no damage can be caused by jumping it.

Yes, throw a jumper in there and see if it cranks then. If so, you've isolated your problem to the PNP circuit.

 

Sorry for my dumb questions but which terminal numbers should I jump in the socket for the "gray relay"?. Is it 6&7? or 6&3 or 4&7?. I am not good at electronics and I am a bit concerned about that.

 

Jump pins 6 and 7.

FWIW pins 3/4 is designed to kill the cruise control if you happen to shift into neutral or (in the rare occurrence) park.

 

I do not have the relay on my hands yet but he numbers I was talking about refer to the picture on page 6 of the "el.pdf" manual at: http://www.boredmder.com/FSM/Nissan/Maxima/1996/.

I know they should be the same but just in case I was trying to attach the picture (but I do not know how to do it).

I do not have a cable here but I will try with a "large paper clip", is it a bad idea???

If finally cranks then I just need to change the relay or should I look for something else?. I will try later and let you know. Thanks a lot for the help!.

 

A paperclip could work, but personally I'd get some wire.

Here's a large picture of it: http://pics.livejournal.com/boredmder/pic/00085x29

Just pull the relay out, and connect the terminals where pins 6 and 7 would go. In this case it would be the two upper left contacts, as you are facing the engine bay.

If it cranks then, first test the relay. If it tests good, then check the Park/Neutral position switch connector, coming from the inhibitor switch. Large grey plug, 2 wire connector.

Assuming it cranks and the relay checks good, pull apart that grey connector and jump across those two wires (after replacing the relay). If it still cranks then, it's an inhibitor switch problem, and hopefully only needs adjustment.

 

Hi again, Iīve just come back from the car, I jumped pins 6 and 7, tried to start and unfortunately didnīt work, not yet!.

Another dumb question: is it the same thing the inhibitor switch and the inhibitor relay?.

Now I will try to find the Park/Neutral position switch connector and the inhibitor switch, but where they are?. I will look for them on the manual.

Is it very difficult to test a relay? and what "PNP" circuit stands for?, I will also try to look for more info about it.

I am starting to think again it could be a grounding problem, what do you think?.
I am not sure about the groundings (on the hood). Where can I find out some info about that?

I was quite confident it was a fried relay but we are gonna fix it anyway!. Thanks again.

 

PMOHR, ur a jewel brother!!

I just changed my passenger side axle in my '96 yesterday for the first time (189k) cuz the cv boot was torn off for awhile and it was starting to clunk on turns when I accelerated. Well after the change, the series of clunk sounds on turns went away. But still, I hear a clunk on some turns now and then from the driver side.

I had both control arms changed a year ago due to swaying on the highway at 50-60 mph speeds. Definitely helped me keep more "control" of the car on high speeds.

1) So this clunking I still have, can't be neither the LCA or passenger axle. Can it be the driver side axle? I see no leakage of grease from cv boot or inner boot. Although it is still rocking the original axle at 189K. Maybe its time???

2) Can the tie rod ends can make clunk sounds?

3) I noticed Frank's writeup on Motorvate, regarding front strut bearing replacement and it helped with some sounds on turns. Is this a common issue with our cars?

Thanks in advance fellaz...

 

i dont know how else to put it, the boot is still in one peice but there is that clear split in the rubber near the clamp. it is split about a centimeter into the boot, leaving the boot intact, in one single peice, but also clearly in need of replacement. i guess you could call it a rip. but i dont want to waste your time trying to describe something you already helped me with. thanks very much for the help.

 

I do agree, PMOHR you a jewel! and this forum is great, I will post some other small doubts I have about the car, but this will be next week, first I really need to make it work! and I need it soon. I love my car, and I am sure it is gonna be just a stupid thing but I am getting crazy now!.

While looking for the Park/Neutral position switch connector (I think it is ok), I have seen a ground wire disconnected (connected to the post of the battery). I am trying to host a picture somewhere to share with the forum.

Could it just be a bad ground connection on the starter?, how can I check this system?.

Any help is really appreciated.

 

No, the inhibitor switch is on the trans, it triggers the inhibit relay to allow the car to start. Look at the front of the trans, there's a large black sensor with wiring harnesses coming from it, that's the inhibitor switch.

Relay test is easy, just need to supply power to the two trigger pins and test continuity.

PNP == Park/Neutral Position.


Double check the connections on the starter, the main line from the positive battery terminal connects to a post on the back. Also check the small connector that goes to the starter, that's what sends the signal to crank.


If bypassing the inhibit relay didn't work, then you can pretty much rule out the inhibitor circuit as an issue. Double check that pin 6 for the inhibit relay gets power when the key is in the START position.

Have you tried jumping the starter yet? Run a wire from the battery positive post to the wire that comes from the starter, see if it cranks then.

This wire with the connector at the bottom here: