My cooling fans turn on as soon as I start the car. What could be causing this? Is it a sensor? if so what sensor and where is it located.

also, what line/hose comes from the bottom on the coolant reservoir and runs to a spot right under the radiator cap?

 

Hello again. I was trying to do some diagnosing for my drl/driver headlight problems by conducting a test in the fsm. I've tried doing what's outlined in EL-49/50 (is this even something I should do?!?). But can't get and conclusive results. Well... to be honest I'm not entirely sure where I should be putting the leads and which terminals are which. I AM supposed to do this with the drl module disconnected, right?
Anyway, while trying to test the drl, with the headlamp switch to lo beam, I noticed a burning smell in the actual car. An electrical burning smell. Could this be because the drl wasn't connected? Or is my combination switch on the steering column toast?

I've been thinking of baking my drl module. I've seen around on the internet people with graphics cards for their PCs that have crappy soldering on them stick them in the oven to 'resolder' the connections. Think this might work?

Any advice/guidance would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

 

There is no code that says that, the only codes that could be interpreted as that would be both CKPS', the CPS, and P1320.

Could be the ECTS, check the connections on it.

It's the overflow hose.

 

where is the engine coolant temp sensor? i checked the ecu and got to different codes for it.

 

And why didn't you mention that before? If you have a problem, the first thing you mention is whether or not you have any codes.

Did you search?


http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...tion-help.html

 

It's in a coolant tube that connects to the engine on the left side (facing the engine from the front of the car). I'm pretty sure you have to drain a bit of coolant out first so you don't get it everywhere.

I have to change my ects. I'm waiting for about another 1000kms and I'm going to change the coolant at the same time. I figure I'll be getting two birds with one stone.

 

i didnt find the post explaining finding codes until after i posted otherwise i would have. thank you.

 

I see...well the service advisor did say that he couldnt get the car to start up so i guess thats why codes arent being returned...

 

ah so thats how it is on the max, thanks pmohr

 

Not just the Max, 99% of automatic vehicles. I've never seen an external trans fluid reservoir.

Rather to say, 99% of automatics keep fluid in the pan. Probably around 90% of today's automatics have dipsticks.

 

I took the center stack out, measured the resistance on the TCM as in AT-110 and there's none. At this point I assume the TCM is bad.

 

Which year of the FSM?

 

It's the 1997, the AT-110.

I can confirm the TCM is bad, I checked all the fuses again and found a blown one. I replaced it with a good one and it blew again
Then I tried one more fuse... the third got blown too and the TCM started smoking. Turned off the engine right away, disconnected the battery and took the TCM apart. One capacitor was burned.

I'll have to order a new TCM, there's none at the salvage yards around here. I'd rather pay a few extra bucks than get a reman (I could just replace the burned capacitor on the board, but I don't feel like risking it).

Thanks for your help!

I'll post an update as soon as I get the new TCM.

 

Gotta love releasing the magic smoke.

Interesting, I wonder if it was damaged by a charging system issue.

OT: I use to chain large caps together on breadboard, then hit them with a car battery with the polarity reversed...makes for some fun times.

 

New member although I'm fairly certain I used to be a member a long time ago(I just got my 4th Maxima due to an unfortunate incident involving my poor '90 MX-6 GT and an F-150). I've previously had a '92 and '93 Maxima SE's, a '96 GXE and just picked up a '98 GXE with less than 80K miles on the clock. Anyway, i'm curious if anyone has seen or heard anything about these R34 style 1 piece headlight assemblies for 95-99 Maximas? http://www.dashzracing.com/Lighting-...-p7191563.html I was under the impression that the 95-96 and 97-99 had different enough headlamp assemblies that swapping them between models was not possible so I'm pretty skeptical about the fitment of these aftermarket units.

Anyway, thanks for the input and I hope to be spending a lot of time here. I know back in the late 90's and early 2000's, the Maxima community was very close-knit(I remember belonging to an email message board that used to fill my inbox with nearly 100 messages a day). Hopefully Maxima owners are still as rabid and fanatical as they were back then.

Cheers

 

Did your search not yield any results? I get a hundred hits for 'R34 headlight' in the 4th gen section alone

Again, search worked fine for me

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...4-fitment.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...t-problem.html

...etc.

 

Must have been the faulty charging system, since there was no other issue with the car previously.
I'm glad I finally nailed it
I just had a look on ebay and found a used TCU that matches, so I'll give it a try (can't go wrong for $40).

 

They'll all work in anything, as long as you stay in the typical year split; 95/96 vs 97-99 (different pinouts and physical connector layout).

 

Thanks for the heads up. Instead of searching for R34 I was using different versions of 1pc, 1 piece, 1 pc. Completely left out the R34 part, then I stumbled on a ton of posts about the R34 housings. I really appreciate the links you provided.

 

i have a bose headunit from a 2001 pathfinder with a 6 disc CD changer. does this plug right in and bolt right up, or is their modification required? i could have sworn there was a write up on here for that but can't seem to find it

 

Have you not just tried to put it in yet? '98s have worked PnP, so have '04s, so I imagine your '01 should work fine.

Did you search?
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-question.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...disc-bose.html

...etc: http://forums.maxima.org/search.php?searchid=506423

 

I've got a '95 Maxima w/ an intermittent start problem. It generally takes anywhere from 2 to 20 turns of the key to get the car to turn over. Sometimes it starts easier in neutral, or after wiggling the shift lever around a bit. After reading a bit on here, I'm suspecting the inhibitor relay. Any other ideas? and how would I bypass that relay to test it?

 

Could be an ignition switch problem where playing with the shifter is just a coincidence. Or it could be the inhibitor switch itself, or any of the connections between, the relay, the starter, etc.

Bypassing the relay isn't a way to test it, but to bypass it you'd jump terminals 6 and 7.

 

Any ideas at all?

 

Thanks. Can you advise on a method of testing to actually try and find the problem? it appears to betting worse. after the car has been driven, it tends to be more reluctant to start.

 

Wait, by 'turn over' do you mean crank, or for the engine to actually start up?

 

Sorry, my bad. Will not crank at all. You need to make multiple attempts to even get the engine to crank.

 

Do you hear a click, or nothing?

I'd bypass the inhibit relay first (or jump the PN connector), then pull the ignition switch if that didn't work.

 

You can hear a click if you're outside the vehicle, inside, not a thing. I pulled the relay and reseated it, just to give it a shot and see if there was any corrosion on the pins. there are 5 spade terminals, so which would I jump together to test?

 

Terminals 6 and 7.

Where does the click come from, the starter?

Have you had the starter tested at all? Tried jumping it manually?

 

Tried jumping manually, no luck. Battery tests fine. Will have the starter tested tomorrow.

Not trying to be thick, but I don't suppose you have a diagram of how to jump terminals 6 and 7 on a 5 connector relay

 

Look at the relay, you'll see that pins 6 and 7 are clearly marked. There's no pin #5.

And the inhibit relay is 6 pin, not 5.

If you couldn't operate the starter manually, why even bother with the relay test? The starter's dead or it's not getting power, or a good ground.

 

Hi, I was out of the city for a while..., came back yesterday and the Max still not working.

Yes, tks I checked that B+ was powered, later I took the starter out and checked that both the solenoid and the motor are ok.

After that I have noticed that the steps lights and the windows doesnīt work anymore, also the security light (red led) doesnīt blink anymore and the central locking doesnīt work either.

Before yesterday they used to work (not sure about the windows but I think they used to work too).

I have checked fuses 12 and 40 and they are fine (also the battery is still giving 12.20V).

Looks like something is wrong with the alarm, right?, but I do not know what to do now. The previous owner told me she has not anti theft (there is not A/T relay on the relays box).

I think I was very cautious doing the tests but I am wondering now if it is possible to have blown any fuse (or maybe a data line or even the computer!!!), is it possible?, I hope it is not!!!.

Thanks for the help!

 

I have just notice another interesting thing: now, as soon as you turn the key ("on" or "start" position, the instument lights (ABS, Air Bag, etc...) turn on. This happens even if you access the vehicle without using the remote now (central locking is still not working whether you are using the key or the remote).

I have also tried to request a self diagnoses and didnīt work, maybe I did something wrong but I donīt think so (the step lights are still not working).

I am running out of ideas!

 

Another update: I have been playing with the starter just to make sure it was fine. Now I am thinking the solenoid is faulty..., whether it was broken before or I have broken it now... I donīt know.

What I have done is the following: with the starter out of the car I have applied current + to the thin cable and ground to the outside (armor) of the motor. It worked intermittently but now seems to have stop working, I am afraid I might have fried the winding (although it is still giving continuity on the multimeter). I only tried it for about 1 or 2 seconds and for 3 or 4 times. Is it possible to have damage the solenoid?, I guess it is.

I have taken the solenoid apart and although it works, the magnetic field is weak and you have to help it to overcome the spring, then it holds the cylinder against the spring.

Now, whether I have burnt the solenoid or if it was already broken (I hope the latter) I have to replace it but I am still really concerned about the problem described above (2 previous posts).

I do not understand why the central locking, windows and the SECURITY Light (LED) are not working now?.

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated, thank you very much!!!

 

im having a problem with my 1998 nissan maxima. the car was working fine up until yesterday after i was done driving it and went back to run some errands after about an hour of letting it sit in my house. nothing seemed to work on it. the power locks didnt work and the car didnt even crank. stupidly i thought it was the battery, so i replaced the battery. after i got the new battery all hooked up the starter still didnt work and my hazards and interior light were on. i think the starters gone bad but i wanted to hear you guys' oppinions on it.

 

My 96 manual maxima failed Smog for the second time, then got approved for the California CAP repair program just as the state budget was cut so I'm back for more tips.

The first time I failed smog I had high NOx output of around 500 while running at 15mph.

I went through the message board for tips, replaced my air filter, pcv valve, fuel filter, spark plugs and oil. Then I read on the forums that the EGR pipe could be clogged so I took it off and found that it was fairly clean, checked around the connecting holes as best I could to look for a clog but couldn't find anything. Lastly at the advice of the boards and acquaintance mechanics, I ran Seafoam through the brake booster line and the gas tank like I would with carb cleaner.

I took the car in the next day for a smog with the engine cool as recommended by a couple senior members on these forums, it was suggested that this helped reduce the NOx levels. I failed for the second time with my NOx levels for both 15mph and 25mph hitting about 625.

The only check engine light code I have kicking up is P0500 for the vehicle speed sensor, once again through a tip on these boards, I checked out the instrument cluster, tightened the screws and reset the system. This worked for a time and then the light came back, repeated the process and it worked once again long enough to smog, (atleast I passed the electrical system check) so now I just need a working condition used instrument cluster but I put that on hold since there's no point if I can't get the NOx down.

Any help would be appreciated, I'm a part time social worker and student so I don't make a lot of money otherwise I'd just throw the car in a shop and not worry about it.

 

The starter being bad has nothing to do with the hazards or interior lights being on. You've got some electrical gremlins you need to check out.

Check all of the fuses, not just the ones that seem to be relevant. Each fuse controls a variety of subsystems, many of which aren't related to the text on the fuse box cover.

The idiot lights should come on with the key in the ON position. Not sure what the keyless entry has to do with it.

Whichever it is, you still need to replace the solenoid if it isn't working properly. Again, check all of the fuses, as well as both circuit breakers.

 

could someone please tell me where the hell the tcc solenoid is on my 96 maxi automatic. my trans started draining all of its fluid out of itself. it pours from the bottom of the bell housing. there was no sounds or vibration it just happened. i was told the solenoid could be malfunctioning and wont let fluid flow back into the trans. ??????

 

The TCC solenoid is with all of the other trans solenoids, in the VB.

Where exactly is it coming from? Did you do anything or did anything happen prior to this fluid 'pouring out'?

The TCC solenoid won't cause your trans to hemorrhage.