While stopped at a traffic light my max started to die it almost turned off but managed to stay on. Now several accesories wont turn on, power windows dont work ac is dead dash lights are out the horn doesnt work. the car still turns on and runs does anybody know whats wrong. please help its a 95 I know its old but its been with me for a while and I cant afford another car right now.

 

Do you mean how do you get to them?

Removal is the same as any other bolt; 12mm socket, turn counter clockwise to remove.

To get to those two bolts, drop the lower oil pan.

Are we to assume that you've checked the fuses and the circuit breakers?

 

So are you saying to remove the timing chain cover I have to drop the oil pan? I got everything out except these two bolts.

 

Indeed. The lower, not the upper.

It's a fairly common thing to overlook: http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...off-3-0-a.html

Also, to do it properly you should remove the upper pan before installing the front cover, but it's really not a necessity.

Why are you removing the timing cover?

 

yeah all fuses are ok, It gots me scratching my head, several things at once just stopped working. Do they share the same grounding point? I dont know. I want to at least get my windows to go down its hot here in south texas.

 

They all have different grounding points in various parts of the car.

First thing I'd do is get the charging system tested, one of the first places to look for electrical gremlins.

 

Bought a VQ35DE with a cracked timing cover. This is going into an 02 Max SE with the dreaded timing chain noise. Gearbox is getting swapped as well.

Thanks for the help bro...

 

Ah.

You are aware then that you're in the wrong section? This is the same between engines, but any VQ35 or A33B chassis specific questions should be in the 5th gen forum, not the 4th.

Also, you don't have to buy a whole new engine just to cure a little chain rattle...

 

Ok, so I tried to read through all the questions here but couldn't make it past about 20 pages, so I'll just ask. Does anyone know where I can get the little pistons that hold up the hood? I think they're called hood struts but I don't want to ask the wrong question. I'm talking about the things that hold up your hood when its open, I do almost all my own repairs, and its a pain to have to use a gold club to hold the hood up. Also if anyone knows how to replace them, that could be helpful too.

Thanks
~Fish

 

Yes, hood struts.

Instead of reading through the newbie thread, it would've been quicker and easier to use the search function.

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...od-struts.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-supports.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...uts-97-se.html

...etc.

As far as where to get them, most auto parts stores carry them. You can also find them on eBay, or just googling around for them.

 

Looking to repaint due to excessive peeling of clear coat and wondering if anyone has experience with trinity paints such as this one?
http://www.paintforcars.com/kits_sta...uaperlmet.html

 

Hey guys - I recently had a whole s*bag of work done on the car when the guy replacing my harmonic balancer braced against the sensor wheel and not the flywheel...... causing the timing chain to jump 3 teeth etc etc...

OK, now that's over, the knock sensor was changed, which cleared the code, but then right away 2 new codes came up, 400 (egr) and 138 (o2). I was looking right behind and below the throttle body and there are 3 pipes there, side-by-side, with vacuum hoses, and only two of the hoses are on there. It looks like the front pipe is not connected to anything, which doesn't seem right. Is it possible that someone didn't hook that front hose up and it threw these codes?

Cheers!

 

This is pretty urgent it would be great if someone could help me

I bought replacement CV axles from a guy that got them from the junkyard. He told me they are the right ones for my car but I am not sure, I need to figure out if they will work.

I have a 1999 maxima, automatic with abs and traction control, Im also in Canada so i guess that means i have lsd

The two axles i got are from different cars

on the sticker for the left one it says AT, w/ABS, and l non (its hard to make out)

the right one says MT, w/abs, non loc

How do I know if these will fit my car? Does it matter that the right one is from a manual car? and what does loc mean?

Thanks

 

So that's P0400 and P0138, correct? You must include all of the code, as otherwise it just gets confusing. For example, if you had an IACV P-code (P0505) and you posted it as '55' or '0505', the latter would mean that nothing's wrong.

You neglected to say which year you have, but I'll assume a '98 or '99, considering those are the only years with a P0138 DTC.

Yes, the P0400 could be caused by the vac lines not hooked up.

The right one will fit.

'Non loc' likely means non locking. The same for 'l non', but who knows.


As for the left, regardless of what it says, what does it look like?

 

left one looks like the first picture, is that good or bad?

 

I suppose it would be bad, as it's the wrong axle.

 

so vlsd means traction control? because when I tried ordering at' the store they asked about traction control they didn't mention lsd or anything

thanks for your help

 

No. VLSD ≠ TCS.

VLSD == Viscous Limited Slip Differential.

The TCS system has nothing to do with the axle (short of you having ABS), so no idea why they would ask that. They probably did mean 'locking diff', but who knows.

 

Yessir - that's P0400 and P0138, and it's a 99 se. Any idea where that front hose might go to? I don't see anything dangling that would make it obvious. One of the hoses goes to the 'vertical' box right past the maf after the airbox, and the otherone goes somewhere I couldn't easily see.

The strange thing is that neither code was in there before - I only had the P0325 knock sensor code, then these two new codes came up right after the knock sensor was done.

 

For a '99, the EGR equipment is all electronic, so a vacuum hose being the culprit is unlikely.

Exactly which hose is missing? Since you haven't posted if you're Cali or Fed spec...

Cali:



Fed:


Before you ask how to figure it out, it's in the stickies.

 

Mine is a fed spec - but the hoses look like the cali spec...

Specifically the 'Vacuum Gallery A' on my car looks like the cali spec but is hosed like the fed spec - so it's probably the way it should be, but doesn't seem right to have an open port like that...

#9 in the cali spec picture is what's open on my car

 

PS - I should add that since the codes came up after having the timing chains - the idle has been high - around 950, but steady.

 

Hi, this is my first post here.
I just had my alternator replaced yesterday (with a Hitachi OEM, did it myself). Followed the FSM and had no problems. When I took the car out for a test drive, it feels like the transmission gets stuck in 1st gear and won't shift. Also the idle prm shows 600 instead of 700 (what I had before).
I'm completely puzzled here, I didn't touch anything related to the transmission. The only thing I could think of is the ECU, but why?
Does anyone here know what the problem could be?

Thank you.

 

Did you recheck everything in the engine bay, anything you may have touched (even inadvertently)?

Does it only stay in first gear when the shift lever is in Drive? What about if you move it down to the 2nd position?

 

Not yet, will recheck all the connectors once I get home from work.
Yes, it only stays in the 1st gear when in Drive, even when I hit the gas all the way.
Haven't tried the 2nd position yet.

A little coolant splashed from the radiator into the engine compartment while I was taking the fan out. But I cleaned it right away and didn't start the car for another 3 hours, so everything was dry.

ALSO: while taking off form a full stop, I have to step on the gas to get it moving, If I just take my foot of the brake, the car won't move and the rpm will drop a little under 500.


Thank you.

 

Even though this question/answer was posted last year, I came across it yesterday when seeking an answer to the same question. Go here:
I found this post when I was looking for an answer to the same question.

http://www.diypartscatalog.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1998-NISSAN-Maxima--Gxe--/--V6--988cc--3.0l--Gas--Fi--vq30de-Brake--Components--Wheels&yearid=1998%40%401998&makeid=60%40%40NISSAN %40%40B&engineid=1316813%40%40MAXIMA+GXE+%2F+V6%2D 2988cc+3%2E0L+GAS+FI++%28VQ30DE%29%40%40MAXIMA+GXE &catid=Brake+Components+%26+Wheels%40%40Brake+Comp onents+%26+Wheels&subcatid=Brake+Master+Cylinder@@ Brake+Master+Cylinder&mode=PA

for pictures of both an ABS (black cap) and none ABS (yellow cap) master cylinder.

 

Trying to designate by cap color or amount of ports is largely too much work when one can just look for the massive ABS actuator hanging out in the engine bay.

 

Got home, rechecked all the connectors I touched yesterday and then followed the procedure described in http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecu.html to get the trouble codes.

I got 3 of them.
0401 intake air temp sensor
0504 automatic transmission control unit signal to ecu
0804 automatic transmission control unit signal to ecu

What would be the next step?
I could really use some help here

 

Normally I'd just say the connectors for the trans got unplugged, but in that case it'd stay in 3rd gear, not 1st.

I'd have the charging system tested, it can cause some odd things sometimes.

 

Can I test the charging system myself with a multimeter, or should I take it to a shop (dealer)?

Thank you.

 

All you could do with the multimeter is check voltages, really.

Auto parts stores will generally test the battery and charging system for free.

 

On a second thought, where can I locate the connector for the transmission. I would like to check that one too, since I'm not really sure it's the 1st or the 3rd gear.
As I mentioned before, when I put the car in Drive, it won't move and the rpm is low. I need to really step on the gas to get it to move. I think I got it up to 50mph yesterday when I was test driving it. My guess is if it was in the 1st gear it wouldn't reach 50mph.

I tested the alternator after I put it in and it's charging properly. Plus I had no transmission problems (or any other problems) with the car in the last 3 years since I got it.

 

If you haven't had any issues in the last 3 years, then that points directly to the alternator job.

If it was in first gear, you'd know...you wouldn't be able to hit but ~40 MPH, and it would be revving pretty high just driving it around.

The connectors for the trans are...at the trans. Around the starter area, just look for them.

 

I think it was around between 3000-3500 rpm.
I'll go locate and check the connectors as soon as the rain stops (..almost there).

I also replaced the battery along with the alternator, I put an Optima R34.

Thanks again.

 

Ok, just checked all the connectors around the starter area. I couldn't find anything disconnected.

Then I did the AT Self-Diagnosis as described in AT-27 section of the FSM same as http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...first-cel.html

At step 7 the O/D OFF indicator lamp does not come on.
So I'll have to continue the testing with AT-110 section of the FSM (I have to locate the A/T control unit first).

 

It's unlikely the TCM has failed randomly, though I suppose a malfunctioning charging system could damage it. In theory.

 

I have #3 on the fed spec diagram T-d off as it should be, but there's an additional port to the side of #3 that's just open to make it look like a cali spec cluster.

 

I have a 98' maxima and i was looking into removing the dealer logos (mainly on the back end). Will a heat gun do the job and if so, will it leave behind holes that need to be patched or can I just remove the left over residue with something like "goo gone"?

 

If they're just stickers then no, there won't be any holes.

 

Hey, I have a 1995 Maxima. My engine is misfiring and I found the 2 cylinders that are doing it. The spark plugs are relatively new and I tried changing out the ignition coils. But this did nothing. One of the spark plugs looked fine but the other was a little wet and black. it does not smell like gasoline. The engine light is on but no one seems to have a computer to read it. Anyone know what might be the problem?