Hey guys,
I was trying to replace my brake pads when i realized 1 of the spring pins (the 2 springy rubber ones where the caliper screws onto) seized up
So the caliper won't fit on with the new thicker pads

Is there a way to replace the springs themselves?
I checked the FSM, but all it says is to check and replace if faulty.

 

You should double check if your latch screws are not loose. Mine got loose and I had a similar problem

 

Nope. There are subtle sheet metal differences - for example, the taillights (hence trunklid and rear quarter panels) are shaped differently. There was a very good website detailing the year-on-year changes of every Maxima up to the 6th gen, but I can't find it right now.

Question: are Kumho Ecsta ASXs any good? They seem to be decent tires and they're pretty cheap. Barring any negative comments, I'll order them. Has anyone ever ordered from Tire Rack? It's like $345 for a set and then another $60 for installation at NTB.

 

I bought this rear wheel hub assembly off ebay. It is for my 97 Infiniti I30.



I got it today and it is indeed a 4 bolt pattern. Shouldn't it be a 5 bolt pattern?

I didn't think it would be a problem that it said it was for Maxima's and not my I30. Every other place I checked said the Maxima rear hub's would fit an I30.

I am so confused

 

Yes, it should be a 5 bolt pattern. Nothing to be confused about, you were simply sent the wrong part. If I was you, I would have contacted the seller prior to purchasing, and the picture is clearly 4 bolt.

 

i did contact them and they told me it was a stock photo. I was so pissed when I opened the box.

 

I see. Then clearly they are idiots. Ask them to send the right part and you'll return the old one (on their dime)

 

thanks ill check it out and let u know whats up with that

 

thanks for the info so i guess something like the hood should fit then right? and for your tires my friend had kumho's on his car for about 6 months he is not too rough on them still they got bubbles in em' about three on each side on the rear but he has a 30 size tire if you go with enough rubber maybe u'll be iite $345 pretty decent paid about $650-$720 for my set of michelins i think they're really worth it tho

 

So I went to the junkyard and took a Hub Bearing off a 95 Maxima. It fits my 97 I30 but doesn't have ABS on it. What would happen if I put a non-abs hub assembly on my I30? Advanced Auto had a bearing for the rear and I am now thinking about just finding a local machine shop to install it. Called around and places want $80 to $90 just to install a new bearing which seems crazy to me.

I was thinking about trying to order another one online. This one on Ebay was only $54 but I don't think this one will fit either. I think it is the wrong part also.


It doesn't look the one I just took of my 97. Which has the bolts pressed into. The part number 512203 is for a 2002-2004 I35.

Seriously WTF! How can these places not know which parts goes to which cars.

Edit: So the bearings I got from Advanced of course didn't fit. The guy on ebay swears that one will fit my car but I am skeptical. Can you guys take a look at the link and tell me if you think it will fit or not.

 

ok here's my story... bought a 96 maxima gxe 5 speed, changed knock sensor , plugs, oil and filter, rear o2 sensor. Now i have been researching because I have a strange noise mostly when decelerating with the car in gear....If i take it out of gear the noise stops...I did the test with it in neutral in the driveway and there is a very faint change in sound when i push my clutch in....I know if the noise is there with clutch pushed in its tob if its there with clutch out its input shaft bearing....so i guess my question is ....Is there supposed to be a small change in sound with clutch in /out? More than likely its my input shaft but I know thats gonna cost alot to fix....toatally bummed out ...this car i paid 2800 for and it has 84k....didn't know that the trannys were such a problem on these....im bummed any advice would be appreciated...thanks

 

When you're in your driveway in neutral, is it a constant, steady-state change in sound, or is it a sort of temporary dip in revs?

 

Well, I left the car with MAF sensor unplugged for about a week. Since with the MAF unplugged, I couldn't even drive at all. Evertime when I move the shift to Reverse or Drive (D,2, L), the engine stalled.

So, today, I just plugged it the MAF again. It took a few times to start, but started and stayed with around 1200rpm on idle when it's cold. RPM is stable. it stays around 700 rpm once warmed up.

I drove a few miles with a few stops (turned off and on). No code so far. I will have to see how it runs tomrrow.

If it is bad MAF sensor, isn't it going to cause the engine stall or etc from the cold ?

 

um it could stall. it might just start idling super high.

The ecu will be searching for idle like i described. up down up down. your car has an rpm thing right? Is it just wiggling up and down when its idling?

It will give the code bad maf sensor eventually.


you can get an maf sensor for cheap on ebay.

 

no real change in revs..."boy i hope you were talking to me" lol just a change in a constant sound that is there but very faint....if I weren't listening for the change in sound I would have never noticed it.

 

no im sorry i was talking to the guy with the maf sensor error not you

 

no prob...i took the car to a tranny shop today ...all the guy did was drive it a couple of miles up a back road and said ...." i dont hear any sound"...basically told me to check the fluid ,,, change it and keep an eye on it but ..... he didn't actually get under the car and look so ...i still have my reservations...anyhow ill be changing the gear oil this weekend and just keep an eye on it i guess ....

 

i have a 98 max se 3.0 manual tranny. Is it possible to install an LSD in that tranny

 

Hey guys, I have a (hopefully) quick question: which year engines will be a direct swap into a 1996? I thought they were all the same, but I remember a thread posted recently about a guy that bought a 99 engine and was having a difficult time with his mechanic installing it. Would a 98 engine swap in without having to change manifolds or anything (assuming fed spec)?

Thanks a lot!

 

96 and 96 no problem. 95, 97, 98 might not be a problem. 99 gonna be a problem. Let the mech find u an used engine or at least use the VIN and call nissan and ask them.

 

Yup, but require different axles and the hardest part: finding a LSD tranny. Good luck on gettin a mech to warranty the work

 

Could jus be throw out bearing on clutch fork. Only one way to really find out. Gotta open her up

 

A bad MAF could take awhile to actually throw a code. Clean with MAF cleaner and see if that helps.

I dont trust ebay MAFs. Too many bad reviews. There is a Org member who is sellin a MAF. I think name is Fenton3000. cant remember exactly.

 

I got my MAF @ www.car-part.com for 35$, been fine ever since. (5 years/40k miles)

 

i am getting a cel for a ks and rear o2 sensor i checked the ks and it is cracked right down the middle if i change the ks will that get rid of the o2 code?

 

Nope. But u still shd replace it. 25 bucks ebay.

 

Actually, it might. KS codes are typically related to O2 codes, where the KS is the culprit.

 

I have a 98 Max I recently purchased an exhaust system, high flow cat, and headers and I went to a garage to get an estimate on how much it would cost to have them put on for me.

He said it'll take 8 hours for the headers and down pipe alone and that's if he can work on it with the engine in the car. It'll be 15 hours if he has to take it out.

Is 8-15 hours longer than it should be? I already ordered the headers and it's too late to cancel the order. I can ship them back and get a refund but is there any possibility that I can have it done in more than half the time he told me it would take?

 

What would b some good injectors on a VQ40swap bottom end only

 

 

That's a ripoff considering the mechanic has a lift. He should be able to knock that out in 6 - 8 hours tops for everything IMO.

 

totally ridiculous.

4 hours MAX. thats still in the 300$ range. Go to a muffler shop, go to the specialist in what yuore doing


you already bought the exhaust i know

but its not without precident that a muffler shop will install a header for free if you buy it from them.

 

I have a 1995 maxima, 161k, automatic. I have a few different problems going on that I can't seem to figure out.

First, when the car is first started, especially if its already warm, it wants to stall (idle drops to 300-400RPM right after starting then evens out to ~700). Also happens after stopping or if I press on the brakes while parked the idle seems to drop some then even out again.

Second, I have weak acceleration until I have hit about 3000k, which also seems to be worse with the car already warm. However it is only limited to when I open the throttle. If I accelerate steady or slow the car seems fine.

Third, I went through my coilpacks one by one (even after they have all been replaced) and discovered a cylinder #1 misfire. Can't figure out what the deal is. The exhaust is not a steady stream, it "puts" and when I raise the hood I can tell the one cylinder is also "putting."

Finally, at roughly 1700-1800RPMs I get a bit of shakiness in my engine.

I have had my codes read and only got the P1320 code, but replaced the coils right after that. CEL is still on though. I have been trying desperately to diagnose the problem and can't seem to figure it out. I'm beginning to wonder if its a faulty ECM??

Please help guys I have been asking on here here and there over the months and to people I know and haven't gotten even a suggestion. Any direction would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

I'm trying to find the fuse for the starter on a 97 Maxima. Can someone please help me? I spent all day trying to fix this for my dad. I accidently touched the positives on the starter, and it sparked. I was running low on sleep, and forgot I had the battery hooked back up... Thanks.

 

Does anyone know an engine i could fit in my 96 I30. I imagine an engine that would fit in a maxima would also fit the I30 and i'm looking for a V6 with a lot more power.

 

VQ35DE/FWD. 02-03

 

invest 50$ in a code reader and you will be completely enlightened as to whats going on.


No seriously. Now. Go get an obd2 code reader for your car or buy a bicycle and give it all up.

Sorry to be rude but youre going to get there fast or slow. Theres no magical way around it, you have to connect it, clear the codes drive it look them up etc.

your symptoms sound exactly like maf sensor to me. What does the code say? ( that means go buy the thing, hook it up, and then come back to the forum. figure its the weekend, you got two places to go, either the auto parts store or the bike store.)

Or look at it this way, theres something seriously wrong with your car and its an emergency! Theres no obd2 code reader attached to it to read the codes and reset them. You need to keep on in the glove box.

Without this tool a professional mechanic would tell you i have no idea. Much less joe fro car forum dweller.

 

Why apologise if you're going to be rude? I can be just as tactful in return. Apparently your ignorance goes further than I thought. If you had read what I said, you would know that I *had* my codes read and got ONLY the P1320. My coils were replaced. The CEL remains on but there are no new codes to report (I did leave that part out, my mistake.)


How about you find somewhere else to troll, punk.

 

you need to get your own obd2 code reader.

Getting the codes read and then the light coming on without a code is not possible.

it would perhaps be something shorted in the actual light?

when you read YOUR code reader it will say, mil status on. Read codes.

Is it possible to have the light on, yet have no codes? No. You have another code. reset the codes, ride and then see what comes on.


What is happening should be clearer then. You had your codes read at autozone, and they didnt reset them? They dont reset them automatically.

Im trying to help, you need your own code reader, you need to reset the codes yourself, and then drive and see what happens.

You didnt reset the codes and you have your OWN obd2 reader? Maybe that is what you are saying. No NEW codes came on but the old ones kept the mil on? ok yes that is what they will do. You can reset the codes by unplugging the battery for a few minutes also

Youre asking what does p1320 mean? this is misfire on cylinder 4

the code would not reset ITSELF for 50 start and stop cycles even if the thing were fixed. Is that what you are asking?

This code is normally for the ignition coil like you had discovered. It is very common to this model. It could be the spark plug itself but i have to assume that is new. Wiring to the plug could be faulty then i cant tell you exactly what it is you replaced. Reset the codes and drive and then see if it comes back.


Got to own your own reader to figure this stuff out theres no shortcut is all Im saying.

Do you have a reader that doesnt reset codes just reads them? Ok then I understand just unplug the battery for 5 mins .

Hey Im rooting for you to take care of your maxima im rooting for anyone. Theres a hard hard fact with cars made 96 and newer, you need to have your own code reader or youre in deep ****. theres a whole multi billion dollar industry out there to take advantage of you if you dont and I dont want to see you be a victim.

HUGS! Buy your own code reader and drive your car forever. This model definitely has a couple sensor issues that come up a LOT like the one you have. Its on the maxima TSM, this code is common and the fix is a rip off.

 

this from the guy who questions the validity of the 5 speed swap.
please stop,you are not helping