misfire, fuel injector replacement, no start
04-08-2007, 09:10 PM
#1
Donating Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5
misfire, fuel injector replacement, no start
this post is a continuation of this one as to start my own post and comply with the rules and stop the thread jack....
just found this forum today, and it was in the shop a week or 2 ago.
my attitude is if someone else can fix it so can i.
his is a 95. i will recheck the bolts and everything. I will need to clean the egr pipe anyway, so it'll all come off for that anyway. and I have already done it once to get to the knock sensor.
I will replace my 9V battery in the voltmeter and get this thing goin.
after the replace ment of the 4th injector. ad my bro explained it, it cranked for a few seconds, then stopped. tried again and the starter sounds like it only clicked, like it wasn't able to turn the motor.
when i checked it out yesterday i tried it and same thing happened, cranked
just found this forum today, and it was in the shop a week or 2 ago.
my attitude is if someone else can fix it so can i.
his is a 95. i will recheck the bolts and everything. I will need to clean the egr pipe anyway, so it'll all come off for that anyway. and I have already done it once to get to the knock sensor.
I will replace my 9V battery in the voltmeter and get this thing goin.
after the replace ment of the 4th injector. ad my bro explained it, it cranked for a few seconds, then stopped. tried again and the starter sounds like it only clicked, like it wasn't able to turn the motor.
when i checked it out yesterday i tried it and same thing happened, cranked
04-08-2007, 09:15 PM
#2
Donating Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5
as to fill you in here is the other posts by me and others so you can get what's goin on.
Originally Posted by xjdano
did you ever get it figured out? the reason i ask is that my brother is having the same problems with his car recently
his O2 CEL was on for about 2 -3 years, we changed the knock sensor and both O2's. the EGR valve was almost clogged closed with black carbon build up. we cleared as much out of the Plenum as we could. put it all back together. eventually we will clean out or get a new egr valve
then it started hesitating and "misfiring" as diagnosed by a mechanic. My brother had the rear 3 injectors changed by a mechanic (aprox $800 parts and labor, should have done it when we did the knock sensor, but didn't have that problem at the time)
still same problem, mechanic said it was one of the front injectors. my bro changed out the one all the way to the right, had a hell of a time getting the old one out. then the car attempted to turn over then sounded like it froze up.
he thinks that some of the plastic on the bottom of the injector got into either the head or combustion chamber. Would that be enough to cause total engine failure? He is going to buy 2 more new injectors for the car, and call the mechanic this week about the problem. we'll check the pick n pull for cars like his Saturday.
Thanks in advance!
his O2 CEL was on for about 2 -3 years, we changed the knock sensor and both O2's. the EGR valve was almost clogged closed with black carbon build up. we cleared as much out of the Plenum as we could. put it all back together. eventually we will clean out or get a new egr valve
then it started hesitating and "misfiring" as diagnosed by a mechanic. My brother had the rear 3 injectors changed by a mechanic (aprox $800 parts and labor, should have done it when we did the knock sensor, but didn't have that problem at the time)
still same problem, mechanic said it was one of the front injectors. my bro changed out the one all the way to the right, had a hell of a time getting the old one out. then the car attempted to turn over then sounded like it froze up.
he thinks that some of the plastic on the bottom of the injector got into either the head or combustion chamber. Would that be enough to cause total engine failure? He is going to buy 2 more new injectors for the car, and call the mechanic this week about the problem. we'll check the pick n pull for cars like his Saturday.
Thanks in advance!
Originally Posted by xjdano
he had the back 3 replaced, and replaced one in the front. then it wouldn't start.
I don't have much time to check the site out now(working out of town sucks), but I might be able to throw in a couple bucks if I feel it's worth it (minumum donation or whatever). I can understand why the reason to ask to donate, I belong to two car clubs and the scca. I just can't join everything that asks me for money.
I am also wanting to get the egr valve body cleaned out. my bro isn't very mechanicly inclined, so I try to help out when i can, this has got me stumped. we'll be looking into it more so next weekend.
thanks
now
I don't have much time to check the site out now(working out of town sucks), but I might be able to throw in a couple bucks if I feel it's worth it (minumum donation or whatever). I can understand why the reason to ask to donate, I belong to two car clubs and the scca. I just can't join everything that asks me for money.
I am also wanting to get the egr valve body cleaned out. my bro isn't very mechanicly inclined, so I try to help out when i can, this has got me stumped. we'll be looking into it more so next weekend.
thanks
now
Originally Posted by evildoughboi
i think you and ur bro might personally check all the bolt connections (that you have to loosen to get stuff off to get to the injectors) and see if its tightened enough (or taut if u dont have a torque wrench). it might be a bit excessive, but check the bolts holding the lower intake manifold down. While your there, u might want to take it off and check the electrical connections (these are instructions for a 94 GXE; its probably similar for 4th gen). My problem was that the bolts for the IAC/AAC was pretty loose. i just winged some of the bolt connections and wanted to see if it cranked; then i forgot.
also, please clarify what the engine does. does it stall and at what rpm? does it even crank and start? can you keep the engine going if u step on the pedal? if its exactly what happened to me (instead of the person asking the original question), then make sure all the bolts are tightened.
if you think it was the injector problem in the first place, you should've checked the resistance of each of them (there are instructions on how to check them in the technical manual). they should be in the 10 ohm range. thats what i did and thats how i narrowed it down to only one injector. the others are all a bit lower resistance so i think in a few years all of them will fail all at once.
u might want to check the ECU and see what code it spits out; it might give u a clue about whats wrong. in my case there was no error, just the inability for the air motor to control the air going into the engine.
Since u brought it to the shop and its still broken, chances are hes just milking you for more money (and did he say why it was the back 3 injectors and not the front 3 or why 3 instead of just one; i believe the front 3 are easier to take off so he could charge u more for the back 3 but thats my guess). i suggest u try to figure it out on ur own. my family has never trusted those shops and other relatives got scr**ed by shop ppl. eventually they took it to my dad and got it fixed.
if hes not mechanically inclined and hes a guy, he will be once hes done figuring it out. just keep checking and be suspecious of everything. i just hope the shop guy didnt sabatoge something so u'll come back.
im usually in the 3rd gen thread (thought this thread was in 3rd gen; came here through google) and i asked the same question there (check for "engine stall after injector replacement"). they gave a few good tips to check on.
also, please clarify what the engine does. does it stall and at what rpm? does it even crank and start? can you keep the engine going if u step on the pedal? if its exactly what happened to me (instead of the person asking the original question), then make sure all the bolts are tightened.
if you think it was the injector problem in the first place, you should've checked the resistance of each of them (there are instructions on how to check them in the technical manual). they should be in the 10 ohm range. thats what i did and thats how i narrowed it down to only one injector. the others are all a bit lower resistance so i think in a few years all of them will fail all at once.
u might want to check the ECU and see what code it spits out; it might give u a clue about whats wrong. in my case there was no error, just the inability for the air motor to control the air going into the engine.
Since u brought it to the shop and its still broken, chances are hes just milking you for more money (and did he say why it was the back 3 injectors and not the front 3 or why 3 instead of just one; i believe the front 3 are easier to take off so he could charge u more for the back 3 but thats my guess). i suggest u try to figure it out on ur own. my family has never trusted those shops and other relatives got scr**ed by shop ppl. eventually they took it to my dad and got it fixed.
if hes not mechanically inclined and hes a guy, he will be once hes done figuring it out. just keep checking and be suspecious of everything. i just hope the shop guy didnt sabatoge something so u'll come back.
im usually in the 3rd gen thread (thought this thread was in 3rd gen; came here through google) and i asked the same question there (check for "engine stall after injector replacement"). they gave a few good tips to check on.
Originally Posted by xjdano
Thanks, after I get back in town we will be going over what we can.
making new post as to not clutter up this one for that person, I will edit it for the link for search purposes.
Thanks!
I started my own thread!
making new post as to not clutter up this one for that person, I will edit it for the link for search purposes.
Thanks!
I started my own thread!
04-08-2007, 09:32 PM
#3
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
Posts: 4,572
check codes first. Usually when all 3 rear cylinders aren't firing it tends to be a problem with the injector or coil harness, search around and you will find a copy of the fsm, download it and it will go into detail how/where to test individual circuits. Also, for future reference, you don't need to pull the IM to replace the knock-sensor. Good luck, welcome to the .org, and hope this helps.
04-08-2007, 09:36 PM
#4
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
Posts: 4,572
after re-reading, I missed alot, check condition of battery and starter first, the max will still run on 3 cylinders. What is it doing now? not turning over at all correct? It's near impossible to cause 'total engine failure' on a vq
04-09-2007, 06:53 AM
#5
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Posts: n/a
0) make sure you have a fresh battery for strong cranking.
1) pull the codes. either with the diag screw, or preferrably at autozone, or just borrow a code scanner from murrays, AA, etc.
2) check condition of the plugs. replace with NGK BKR5E11 ($1.80 ea) if worn or fouled.
3) check for spark on all cylinders: pull coils out one at a time. insert a known good plug. hold threads near engine ground while someone cranks it. you should see spark.
4) listen for injector operation. hold screwdriver to injector case, with handle to ear. have helper crank engine. listen for telltale click-click of operational injectors.
5) check for fuel pressure. there's a few ways to do this. best (most informative) way is to take a couple injectors out (don't touch the ones just replaced) and point them into a plastic bag while helper cranks engine. look for fuel flow, dirty fuel, etc.
6) check for compression on all cylinders.
if you've got spark, fuel, & compression then you should be able to start, at least momentarily.
document everything you do. take pictures, video, maybe have the Autozone guy write down an invoice with the codes on it, etc. and when this is all over try to get some money back from that mechanic. he screwed you with his own ignorance/incompetence. take him to small claims court if necessary.
just curious -- after the mechanic replaced the back 3 injectors the car must've run ok. or how else did you get it home?? surely he didn't return a car that wouldn't start?
1) pull the codes. either with the diag screw, or preferrably at autozone, or just borrow a code scanner from murrays, AA, etc.
2) check condition of the plugs. replace with NGK BKR5E11 ($1.80 ea) if worn or fouled.
3) check for spark on all cylinders: pull coils out one at a time. insert a known good plug. hold threads near engine ground while someone cranks it. you should see spark.
4) listen for injector operation. hold screwdriver to injector case, with handle to ear. have helper crank engine. listen for telltale click-click of operational injectors.
5) check for fuel pressure. there's a few ways to do this. best (most informative) way is to take a couple injectors out (don't touch the ones just replaced) and point them into a plastic bag while helper cranks engine. look for fuel flow, dirty fuel, etc.
6) check for compression on all cylinders.
if you've got spark, fuel, & compression then you should be able to start, at least momentarily.
document everything you do. take pictures, video, maybe have the Autozone guy write down an invoice with the codes on it, etc. and when this is all over try to get some money back from that mechanic. he screwed you with his own ignorance/incompetence. take him to small claims court if necessary.
just curious -- after the mechanic replaced the back 3 injectors the car must've run ok. or how else did you get it home?? surely he didn't return a car that wouldn't start?
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