I got it from a fellow orger who had it in the original Nissan Parts package. He wanted to get rid of it and i got it for $55 shipped. All OEM...came packed from Pinnacle Nissan.

 

SWEET, i'm off to search for a good deal

 

Fix it, they arent much, 50-60 bucks for a new one on ebay including the harness. I just ordered one and I should have it monday or tuesday. I cant wait to get my acceleration up.

 

man i am having a hard time trying to replace this i know theres a several suggestions on how to do it with the one being just take some pain and squeeze your hand in there but i cant do it i already cut the crap out of my hand trying it and it maybe be that im just not coordinated enough to this but ive been trying to get it loose with a 3/8 swivel on the 12mm socket and like an 18 inch extension but cant seem to manage that either any help, input, suggestion, or prior experience is greatly appreciated lol thanks for the help

 

If your car is a california spec...it is nearly impossible without removing the upper intake manifold. Me and KRRZ350 spent 4 hours on replacing the knock sensor and wiring harnesses. I now have a SES light and I need to get the codes today after work.

If your car is a cali spec, you need to remove the swirl valve, and pull back a lot of wiring on the driver side of the engine block. You need to then manage to fit your hand into the opening and undo the bolt. Pull out the old KS and plug the new one in...and put everything back together. The opening on the cali spec is much smaller than the fed spec and I would reccomend someone with a very small hand to help you if you do not have the time or patience to remove the upper intake manifold.

 

Does anyone have the link as to how to do that 470 ohm resistor trick? I've switched out my KS a couple times and the ghost code eventually comes back. I think I just want to do that resistor trick and know that I'm getting full power.

 

Maybe your car is knocking, but have you thought to check the circuits per the instructions in the fsm? If there is a problem with the circuit anywhere between ecm and ks even the resistor trick will be of no help, but it's as simple as going to radioshack, getting a 470ohm resistor, and putting it between the ks wire and ground.

Yeah, matt's knock sensor was a pita, it almost would have been easier to remove the upper and lower im as he said, but grease or dish-soap on your hands helps. What blows is the knock sensor and wires were all in perfect condition, the ks was definitly replaced recently, and I really didn't have the time to run an ohmmeter between the connector and ecm and start tracing wiring problems. Sorry I missed your calls, didn't have my phone on me, I was hoping you called to tell me that your car was running the ***** Anyways, if it's a swirl-valve code let me know and I'll pick up some new clips for the actuator rods and pop them in free of charge obviously.

 

I own both spec 4thegns I know the feeling .But I use a fixed light/ long extension with a swivel 1/4or3/8 & a telescoping magnet to remove and install my knock sensors. Ive done three so far in under 10 mins
It is much easier (not bashing just sharing my little tricks)

 

Anyone in the ct area wanna change my knock sensor 4 me??????

 

do the ebay knock sensors come with the wire harness?

 

No you need to go to the dealership to get them...its a $15 dollar part

I also have a 100% working KS that is like new for $40 shipped. OEM part and guaranteed to work. I can post a picture if anyone is interested.

 

post , im interested. u say its "like new"? is it used?

 

It is exactly the same as the brand new one that I put in my car last weekend. (yes still have the damn code even with a brand new sensor and wiring harness back to the main relay....)

It does not look like it was used more than 5000-10000 miles. (just got car 3500 miles ago). I can post a picture of it and show you that looks exactly the same as a new one and tested perfectly to work 100%. PM me if you need anything else.

 

nah ill rather get a new one

 

That knock sensor really is like brand new, it definitly was very recently replaced, I have one laying around that was in a car for about 6 months and less than 5k and it doesn't look anywhere as new as that one, $40 shipped would definitly be a good deal.

 

i had the same code on my max and i noticed the miles per gallon decreased for about 2 miles. so i changed my knock sensor and tis' been great even sense.

The code is 0325 for 95-97.5 maxima.

 

Does anyone know where I should begin to troubleshoot this code, as I have replaced the KS, harness, and wiring all the way back to the main relay? Do I possibly need to reset my ECU? Any thoughts are greatly appreciated!

 

always replace ur KS if its bad...

 

There is no relay in the ks circuit, you must mean the connector. Like I was saying that day, the next step would be to connect an ohmeter between ecu connector terminal #64 and the white ks wire, tracing a problem in the main harness could get expensive though, a resistor soldered between terminal 64 and ground would probably be much easier.........

 

Yes, I meant the connector. Next time I am down there, we can troubleshoot it some more. Hopefully the resistor can do the trick as the OBD-II computer cannot even erase the codes.

Hopefully by the end of the summer I can afford a y-pipe/cat and Ill want help installing it. I will let you know tho. I would have liked to do it within the next month...if only I didnt have to pay to troubleshoot my new problem...the airbag light

 

I replaced my knock sensor with a very reasonably priced KS from ebay. I, too, was concerned about putting in a lower quality after-market part but received assurances that the ebay part was the same as that sold at the dealership -- sans the box with "Nissan" printed.

In any case, I asked my mechanic to save the old part and bingo it was identical to the one I got from ebay.

So for this particular part, ebay was a winner.

For many other parts, ebay may not cut the mustard.

 

tight... can anyone list the names of the ebay sellers who offer these "OEM" type knock sensors...

 

I to used the E-bay KS. Maybe I got lucky but I got it in 5 minutes. And contrary to some posts, there was a noticable increase in power. I don't think my gas milage has changed much, but it pulls much better with no flat spot it had. Now just got to fix the *&$&&*EGR.

 

I used to work for a nissan dealership and as far as the code is concerned that thing could have been there since day 1. The MIL (check engine light) will not come on unless another code is present. Fix the O2 sensor, clear the codes and have a nice day. You may check back in a week or 2 and find the knock sensor code back in the system but the light will be off, which means everything is fine. If it is a dealership that told you to replace it, they are just telling you that bc the code came up. you really dont have to replace it.

 

i have the KS code and the car pulls good, excellent low end torque, no power struggle issues, no flat spots.

but why would u say not to replace it ? is it not there for a reason ?

 

Other codes will trip it is what he is saying. I had a KS code and my KS was virtually new. No problems with the wiring either. It will not clear using the OBD-II computer and I am now temped to leave the battery disconnected overnight to erase the code. I do have another code 0420 (cat/02) that is on/off erratically so that could be the case I guess. It is just that I can erase the 0420 no problem, but the KS will not go.

Ask KRRZ350 and refer to his post on page two, the knock sensor pulled out of my car looked like it had less than 5000 miles on it. All the wiring checked out also, and even still I replaced all of it. I wish I had known before I spend $100 in parts/labor to do this.

 

all it takes is one time for a faulty reading and the code will be present. doesnt mean that there is a problem with the sensor. im not 100% on this, but i would think if there was a real problem with the sensor that could cause a problem then the light would omit without any other codes. i wonder if there is 2 ks codes.

 

When reading it there were 2 codes, both were 0325 but one was specifically titled "Wiring" and the other one specifically said "Bank 1" - meaning the actual sensor. I am wondering if my car is still being retarded...the car seems to be back to the same again...I just switched to 93 octane after the KS change and the car felt sluggish for the last 10 days (300 miles) but is beginning to feel normal. It could just be me but if the code is there, is the ECU definitely retarding the engine?

Also, if I added a resistor, what can be some of the pros/cons to doing so?....especially now that I know the KS and wiring is good.

 

can a faulty knock sensor give your car the shakes in low rpms?