chillin014

iTrader: (67)

Sorry to make another thread but this is holding me back from continuing my swap. In the write up on vqpower.com it says :
"1 Bypass the P-N start switch
1.3 Disconnect the harness that goes into the front of the tranny that only has 2 wires. (Note: the front of the tranny refers to the part that is closest to the front of the car)
1.4 Get your wire and cut a 6 inch strip
1.5 Use the wire taps to connect the 6 inch piece of wire to both of those wires (This will in effect connect these wires)
Add-on to the instructions:
In step 1.5, it says to connect two wires on the tranny harness. You instead, need to run a wire from both of the tranny wires, to the clutch pedal switch (small switch that is engaged when you push the clutch all the way down). This will let your car know when it is "Neutral (since it thinks it is an automatic)".. your reason for doing this, is so that 1. You cant start the car without the clutch (safety)... and #2, SO CRUISE CONTROL WILL WORK. "

there is 2 wires in the harness, and TWO switches on the clutch. Does this mean i cut the wires, extend the 4 ends all the way to the clutch pedal and connect the 2 ends from each wire to each harness?

i'm assuming the switches just complete or disconnect the connection that flows through these wires when the clutch is pressed down? so it shouldnt matter which wire gets connected to where just as long as they share the same harness. Am i correct? i cant think of any other way to connect this and now i gotta go get these damn harness connectors so i can connect them to the clutch pedal.

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

somebody...anybody....?

maxima985spd

PM TJ MAX on nycmaximas.org

GoalieKeg

iTrader: (4)

If I remember correctly, the only switch you need to be concerned with is the one when the clutch is pushed all the way down. Thus, you will run these two wires on the tranny to the two wires on the clutch pedal solenoid that are activated when the clutch is pushed all the way down.

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

Can you be more specific?
There are 2 switches on the clutch. So basically cut off the harness and run the wires to one of tehe switches?

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Sounds like you run the two wires from the tranny to the clutch switch. You say there are two switches so just check what each switch is according to the FSM and wire it up accordingly so.

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

Alright, yeah at first I was confused and thinking I was keeping the harness on there but just splicing into the wires or something. But cutting it off makes it more simple than I thought. 2 ends to connect to one of the switches, simple. Thanks.

GoalieKeg

iTrader: (4)

Like I said before, make sure you connect it to the one that engages when your foot is all the way to the floor.

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

I thought they were both mounted in the same location, but ill check when I get home.
Thanks guys

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

I just realized I was looking at my brake pedal, I thought it was the clutch pedal. for some reason.
:

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Silly rabbit, tricks are for kids

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

Don't worry the pedal was off the car.

I wonder how much the clutch pedal goes for at the dealership.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Clutch Pedal Assembly - 46540-40U00 - 36.20

From the 5speed swap sticky

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

Damn, maybe where you live. I was just there, bought a throw out bearing with a discount for like 25 bucks. The clutch pedal "assembly" was 50 bucks and didn't even include the bracket along with other little pieces I saw on his picture.
Looks like ill be getting one from the org.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

When I made the list I got the prices from pinnacle IIRC.

OnEBadAsSi30

iTrader: (1)

I bought a brand new Clutch Pedal and Bracket from Nissan for 130.

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

Damn that sucks.
What did you do about the spacer on the firewall for the master cylinder? Idont think its a part you can actually buy from nissan.

Nismo

iTrader: (18)

handfull of washers

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

Thanks. Do I put these on the engine bay side? Or the cabin side? Will it be obvious how much spacer I need? Why is a spacer needed exactly.

Blackwind

iTrader: (9)

inside the cabin

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

thank you. waiting to recieve my clutch pedal. i hope it goes smoothly

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Let me know if you can keep the auto pass side axle bracket. I have seen one person that had to put the manual one in.

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

i just bought one from fanaticrockford because i started getting skeptical. i'll see whats up and compare them and what not. i'll try with the auto bracket first.

Nismo

iTrader: (18)

I had to get the manual one. The auto one "worked" but its a different angle and will make the seal leak.

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

see this is info that needs to be added to the write up.

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

i dont want to make another thread for this, but hopefully someone see's it and chimes in.
i've been trying to put my manual tranny into gear (off the car) and i'm not sure if im not doing it right or if its just really this hard. I press the fork in the direction the slave cylinder pushes it, and then i can pull that little U shaped piece (where the shift rod connects) out. It seems to click into 2 positions when im pulling it outwards. But i stuck a screw driver through the holes and tried to turn it forward or backward and i cant get it to budge really...
how easy should it be? or am i not doing something right?

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

it's pretty easy to shift it through the gears manually actually, just your hands and moving it a combination of all directions (in/out & left/right) you should be able to run through the gears, but yeah in & out there is only two positions I think except for reverse when it's all the way turned one wayit goes in an extra click. I'm so confused though how you're saying 'out of the car' then there should be no need to push the release fork?

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

edit: spinning the input shaft around to unload it though, then it's somewhat easy to 'run it through the gears'

Nismo

iTrader: (18)

you should be able to move the striking rod through the gears with some force with your hands. If you have an idea how the shift linkage and shift lever are connected to it, you can easly figure out how to get it in each gear.

for example - twisting counter clockwise and pulling it all the way will put it in 1st gear, pushing it all the way in from there is 2nd ect. Neutral, you should be able to move it left and right freely

darklegend06

iTrader: (11)

after you finish the swap tell me if you get a 1003 code, which means park neutral switch. If you don't tell me what you did exactly with the wiring. Good luck with the swap.

Blackwind

iTrader: (9)

i need the answer to this as well.

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

you cant seem to move yours forward and backward either? i really dont want to have to bring this tranny to a shop.

Nismo

iTrader: (18)

^^ He's talking about the P/N CEL not the tranny

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

oh sorry i donno how i missed that.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Blackwind & darklegend, are you guys having a no-start problem or just worried about a 1003 code? The code is just because your running an auto ecu and not related to the starting system, you can get rid of that code and the high idle when you swap to a 5-speed ecu, (but then you get other codes with the 5-speed ecu and the auto wiring harness I think) I happen to have one for sale actually from a '98 I30.

Nismo

iTrader: (18)

Actually I still have the 1003 code even going through about five different 5speed ECUs (95 se JWT, 95 se stock, 96 se stock, 97 se stock, and my current 96 se JWT.)

They all have the CEL for park/n POS sensor. With my 97 se manual ecu, thats the only code that comes up.

Also, I ran my stock 97 auto ecu in the car for a few weeks and it drove normal (bunch of cels but not weird idle or funny stuff)

darklegend06

iTrader: (11)

Yeah I have a 97 or so manual ECU in mine, and still have the code. Also I'm really not in the mood in swapping out the whole wiring to a 5spd unless I have all summer which I don't, and also the space to do it. I hear a lot of people that converted to an manual has the code so yeah.

also to chillin014, I think you may want to bring it to a trans swap because something in the trans is not put in place right so you are not able to move the shifter thing on the trans. If you know a lot about the trans you can do it but it is a pain in the a$$ cause I was watching and helping out my friend that rebuilt my trans for me.

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

Yeah I was hoping someone would be able to tell me how hard it is, or if I'm not doing it right before I take it to a shop. I was told it worked fine...I just wanted to do a little check.