gunny11218

wtf i thought i did this already, my maf is acting up again and i cleaned it about a month ago, with the really good stuff, i cant remeber what its called but everyone suggested it to me anyways, i just cleaned it 2 nights ago and the check engine light still wont go away and my car was acting up again today which sucks because its really embarrassing and its not good for our maximas. it worked last time? wtf? any ideas? suggestions, comments? help please!

killerVQ30DE

Why do you need to keep cleanning your MAF? Have you got a over oiled pod or something? It may just be your MAF has finally packed it in

Vlasic

iTrader: (13)

Why is it not good?


Just buy another, should be able to find them on ebay or in the for sale section for $40-$60.

WhiteA32

iTrader: (20)

By anychance did you reset the ECU?

willard00

iTrader: (1)

if your getting a code, reseting the ecu will not make it go "oh thats right, im wrong. no code. april fools!" it will come back. so dont bother reseting the ECU. if it finds that the problem is fixed the light will go off by itself.

also, my guess is that you may have killed it. if you hold the stuff too close to the hot wire sensor part in the middle the pressure from the can sometimes can damage the maf. either that or you got lucky last time cleaning worked. and if you cleaned it a month ago, and the code came back that quick...it would make sense that the maf's junk.

edit-whats the exact code?

gunny11218

yea, thats the only thing im afraid of is that my maf is shot, because a new one is like 210 at autozone. and also maybe i did kill the hotwire with the spray because it is an areosole can after all... idk guys my cel is still on but my car is have no problems what so ever, my starter and my rpm's dont work but they wouldnt throw codes would they?

willard00

iTrader: (1)

your starter? how do you get the car started then? and to my knowledge a non-functional tach wouldnt throw a code.

ManualMaxima

iTrader: (10)

the tach would not throw a code........but the postion sensor would.....you can find they way cheaper than at autozone.....i b have bought acouple in the past from junk yards for about $30

willard00

iTrader: (1)

^^yea, i was thinkin that...

anyway, gunny...have you had anyone read the code yet?? its not even worth continueing this thread if you dont know what the code is....so if you havent gotten it looked at go to autozone and have them read it, then tell us what it is.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

I've got two of them fs

jltibbs

iTrader: (1)

the MAF's on 95-96 have a few probs with the wires that lead into the plug. i went through 4 MAF's before i found this out. the wires that lead into the plug that goes to the MAF were loose. a little solder and some patience = no more probs.

gatorsteeler

im a honda freak that just bought a 99 max gle on a good deal...seems there are A LOT of codes being thrown on this car huh?

gunny11218

so wait. the little grey plug. that plugs into my MAF.. youre saying those wires that connect with the plug are bad. so i should seperate the wires from the plug some how and solder them back together?... i know one thing for sure where the male connecter connects with the female plug theres 4 screws connected to the male part i took those off and i accidentally broke the solder connections between (keep in mind im talking about inside after you take off the 4 screws) then when i ripped it off and i tried to connect them the best i could again just kind of bending them slightly and with sheer luck my car started to work fine again and then about a month later it started comming back again (the stalling studdering my CEL the symptoms that i got the first time) and thats where i am now. but so youre saying the wires connecting to the female plug might need to be soldered back together?


PS im sorry for the confusing paragraph.

gunny11218

how much and do they work well?