Hey guys, I was wondering if I need a tranny fluid change on my auto 98 se with 28k? If I do.. what should I use?

ps.. I like to drive hard if you know what I mean!

 

funny, i was thinking of getting the same thing done. im at 47k. some1 plz answer.

 

There are two methods for changing the Automatic Transmission Fluid.

Method 1) An ordinary drain-and-refill may be done by the home mechanic. This method changes only about half of the fluid, but is easy and inexpensive. The cost is 4 or 5 quarts of ATF, plus your time.

Method 2) Most commercial service facilities use the Magic Sucker Pump which changes all of the fluid. The cost is about US$80.

My Maxima is a 5-speed so the issue of ATF change does not apply. I maintain a Honda Accord for a family member. On that car I do a drain-and-refill ATF change with every oil change. It is not a big deal, as the car is already up on jackstands and my hands are already dirty. This costs about US$8/year in ATF and the car is always running on almost-new ATF.

Since you like to "drive hard" you should consider installing ...
- a transmission oil cooler such as Hayden #403 available at many auto part stores (Pep Boys, etc.).
http://www.greghome.com/Greg's%20Gar...n%20Cooler.htm

- a Valve Body modification such as Mobiletek
http://www.mobiletek.net/vb.html

 

Daniel,

The Magic Sucker Pump you are talking about, is it the T-Tech machine? I am in the process of finding a shop to do this. So far this is what I find out:

1. T-Tech machine. Average cost is ~$80. Used by Vovoline, Juffy Lube and K-Mart. They hook up the mechine to the tranny line, start the engine, and let fluid cycle through the machine, thus change the fluid.

2. Evac 7000. Cost is $30. Used by Oil Changer (www.oilchanger.com). By putting a tube through your tranny dipstick tube, the machine suck the fluid from the oil pan area, then refill. Can't reach the fluid inside the torque convertor though, which is ~1.125 quarts, ~12% of the total fluid (10 quarts). I think they can use this mechine to do oil change too.

 

SunMax,

#1 is the Trans-tech machine and is the one I would use when having this done. Yes, it's more $$$, but they do use a flushing agent to help get all of the "crud" out.

My opinion?

I would first get the machine service done. Then drive at least 1k on the "new" fluid.

Then I would replace the ATF drain plug with one that actually has a magnet on it since 4th Gen Maximas apparently didn't have one from the factory for cost-cutting purposes. (See the Maintenance sticky under Transmission cooler for more info)

Then I would buy 12 qts of either Mobile 1 ATF (a synthetic ATF available at any AutoZone, etc.) or Amsoil ATF (only available through a race shop or amsoil.com) and do the drain n' fill method a minimum of 4 times (do it every Saturday for the next month, for example). Each time, be sure to wipe the metal "crud" on the magnet on the back of the new ATF drain plug. You will only drain 2 to 3 quarts (as opposed to the 4 or 5 as Daniel has suggested which is probably true on Honda automatics, but not Maxima automatics). Simply refill with 2 quarts and then run the car to temperature and refill with the new ATF as need to get it back in the normal zone. Once you've put 12 quarts in there, you're done.

On the other hand, you may be able to find a shop that will do the synthetic ATF with the machine service. I could not find one stupid shop in the area that would agree to do this, which is why I went with a drain n' fill method.

Additionally, member "brubenstein" has a method of using the stock tranny cooler return line by disconnecting it and running your car, thus allowing a couple of quarts to come out. Then refilling with new ATF and running the car again until 2 more quarts are in the bucket. That way, once "clean" fluid comes out, you know you have flushed all of the old ATF out......

But I'm now of the contention that you should let the shop machine put dino ATF in there and then slowly replace that relatively "clean" fluid with a synthetic ATF of your choice by doing drain n' fills.

The Oil Analysis spreadsheet sticky also shows you that a 99 Maxima driven "normally" needed ATF replacement at only 32k when the ATF was analyzed by Blackstone Labs. You can also see what Amsoil looks like lab-wise after 4k miles when a drain n' fill method was performed as well as dino ATF 30k miles after a "Trans-tech" machine flushing.

I apologize for the long-windedness......

 

Bill,

No need to apologize, I need this kind of advice/comment badly.

I already bought 11 quarts of Redline ATF.

I called and non of my local Jiffy allows me to bring in my own fluid, but my local K-Mart does. I am kind of hesitate to go to K-Mart, mainly because of their cheap image (compare to Wal-Mart and Target), thus link to may-be worse service quality of their auto stores.

Another concern is using the T-Tech machine. Seems it is a better idea (than Evac 7000). But then picture this: A tank has two hoses, one on each side. Say fluid going in through one, and coming out from another. But when new fluid go in, will it mix with the old one already? So the outlet should come out with mixture of new and old, instead of just old, right? So you still end up with a little mixture of old fluid plus major new fluids. Does it make sense?

Will this theory apply to the auto tranny when using T-Tech machine?

 

Daniel,
how would you rate this VB upgrade to the one that people talk about from Don in Texas or are they one in the same??

I sthis valve body upgrade the equivilent of installing the old shift kits to create a more concise transition from gear to gear without loosing the power??

 

How strong/big of a magnet is the one on the drain plug bolt? Is it just the size of the plug? Cause there are already 2 removeable good size magnets sitting at the bottom of the drain pan for collecting metal particles.

 

Well, I had mine done at the Penske Auto Center as well (affiliated with K-mart)......I was more worried about the machine than where it was done. Clearly, I don't blame you for being concerned.

One problem which you alluded to is the old/new fluid "mixing". That will happen to a certain extent, but since your transmission cooler pump is pumping the old fluid out and the new fluid is going through the dipstick, very little fluid will actually mix since it all takes the same path through the tranny. Most places that allow your ATF to "pollute theirs" will STRONGLY recommend/force you to bring 15 to 16 quarts of your ATF to allow a "complete" flush with getting the old fluid out properly and with any residual fluid of theirs that may be in the lines. Clearly, the extra 5 qts. becomes a money issue and is your choice.

If it were me, I would let whoever you feel comfortable with do the service with whatever fluid they have. Then, go home and do your drain n' fills in a "more controlled" environment. Sure, you'll waste 30 minutes to an hour for the next 4 Saturdays, but you will have piece of mind that it was done right and that you haven't really wasted your $$$ Redline ATF.

The main drawback to the drain n' fill method is that "old"/"new" ATF will mix together for a few days. But since your fluid will be "new", it shouldn't be much of an issue......

Good luck!

 

Yes, the magnet is the size of the plug, and does manage to pick up quite a bit of "crud" in just a week's time. By my fourth drain n' fill, there was hardly any particles on the magnet......a good sign.

This advice is for those who don't wish to drop their pans and play with their trannies. I'm part of the group that has no desire to do that. Therefore, I am ignorant about the size of the magnets at the bottom of the pan, although I'm sure they do their job as well.....

 

In previous posts I used the facetious term Magic Sucker Pump to describe all varieties of transmission flushing machine. Several companies make them, and they are not all alike. Some are "line machines" which connect to the transmission cooler lines. Others are "flange machines" which attach to the transmission filter (or screen) flange. To learn more about these machines, go to
http://www.motorservice.net/ms/arch...0600/0600tf.asp
Be aware this article was written by Bob Freudenberger for the service professional rather than the consumer. For a picture of a flange machine, scroll down to the picture of AutoTool's Total Transmission Service machine. Flushing with a flange machine requires removing the transmission pan so it may cost more, but the "up side" is that the technician has access to those magnets and should clean them. It's up to you to make sure he does.

 

Last time I dropped the pan the two magnets at the bottom had on them quite a good amount of tiny metal shreds sticking to it which took me a long time to clean. But if this magnet drain plug is also picking up that much crud like u said then it's definitely worth the addition. I'll have to stop by the dealer for this new "mod"

 

They are one and the same.

I don't have a Valve Body upgrade. Plain Jane (my '99 GXE) is a 5-speed. Therefore I cannot comment on the MobileTek VB mod. People who have it praise it.

Based on what I've read, MobileTek is better than those "old shift kits". You can get one of the old shift kits. http://www.txchange.com/transgo.htm It costs much less than MobileTek but takes much more time to install. Feedback from Maxima.Org members says that TransGo works but is inferior to MobileTek.

 

Is that means I have to clean the pan also? If yes, then do I have to change the gasket? Do you know the part number?

Thanks!

 

You don't really have to clean the pan since the car has only 28k but if it's convenient then yes by all mean the better. Your gasket should still be good since mine was still in good condition at 60k miles. I don't know the part number but when i got mine i just told the parts guy i needed the gasket for transmission pan and year of my car. There is also a wire mesh screen filter for your transmission which is replaceable if you want to get it replaced too. But all you really need to do is clean it yourself and reuse it if you want.

 

No one answered the question about which ATF to use.


Nissan recommends Dextron III or equivalent. I use synthetic Redline D4 ATF, but I don't really notice any difference.