Alright I'm just going to do the y pipe and the catback and see were that takes me. Maybe a udp later.

 

UDP = FAIL.

 

Oh someone else said that. That it wears out the main bearings I think. Ummm... I guess I'm stuck after that.

 

No. The problem with UDP's isn't that they cause extra main bearing wear; our motor's are internally balanced and don't rely on the crank pulley for that. It's the fact that it doesn't make your car any faster.

 

Put on the reverse hood from Fast and the Furious, END OF STORY.

 

Oh yeah and 3.5 bottom end.

 

you need to fix the nasty whole in your fuel map first, retard the timing, you'll be runnin 9s in no time. o the memories you need two big tanks of it.

 

I already fixed the hole in my fuel map, there is a password protected write-up for donating members.

 

Super Charger kits are bolt-on nowadays. Fabrication is a thing of the past.

 

Not on a 4th gen...

 

What do you guys think of a CAI? Is it worth the couple of hp? I searched and some say that it works well with a y pipe.

 

it definetly makes the car sound meaner at WOT, but i didn't really notice any big gains in the butt-dyno. the y-pipe adds a little hp though. i've noticed that most bolt-on mods increase power in the upper RPM range. in fact, midrange power may even suffer a little bit

 

CAI with stock resonator and maf. That and y-pipe will be good. If you searched you'd know everything about intakes for these cars because newb start threads all the time. There are differences in gain depending on what intake setup you go with. They all add and subtract hp at different areas. Everything is good with a y-pipe (generally speaking) because it gives big gains right away.

 

headers maybe + keep stock pipping will keep all that low end, but it might give a small decrease in mid/high end

 

Please explain your logic behind this theory.

 

More low end torque? Am I the only one here who spins tires without even trying?

 

No, I smoke mine too. The original poster just isn't driving properly. He's trying to squeeze power out of the motor at 2K instead of revving it higher.

 

Your tires suck. I call w/o dynos.

 

I can spin the top of first by stomping down in toyo proxes, but much after that its all grip.

 

Spinning tires is more an indicator of the limitations of our front suspension.

 

.....or that people don't know how to engage a clutch properly

 

.. If the trans is in 1st and you're at 4k and the tires are spinning via gas pedal, then id say the clutch is definitely engaged properly. Open diff and A32 suspension is ftl.

though I know you were referring to the others..


DR's FOR DD!!!! FTMFW.

 

Why the hell do people say this? Toyo makes all sorts of different tires and the Proxes line spans a huge range of grip. Saying you have Toyo Proxes tires means absolutely nothing.

 

Fine I'll be more specific ya douche lol.. good point though.


Proxes T1r - 215/55/16

 

I'd just have expected more from you, that's all.

Hug? <3

 

Yeah, I've been going down hill lately.. All these ridiculous threads. heh.


Hugs are good, but in fear of lovers, a handshake and nod will do.





(sound of external wastegate at 19si)

 

Couldn't agree more.

 

(throws bottle at FD rims.)

 

Dude, don't make me revoke my hug.

 

Wow this thread got thrown out of wack. I been reading and it doesnt look like there are many bolt ons. Can anybody throw some ideas besides a CAI and exhaust, please?

 

it got off track because there was nothing left to say. CAI and exhaust are bolt ons. UDP is tech. a bolt on but you don't gain much power. Y pipe is the first bolt on you should do. If you read you would know it's a 15-20hp gain from it. If you have the money throw on headers as well. Pieced together they give good flow. Other than that things are custom. MEVI is bolt on but it requires wiring and knowing some things. 00vi is tech. bolt on as well but requires a lot more than bolting on the IM so I do not consider it bolt on. Injector wiring, rpm switches, tuning, etc. 3.5 is not bolt on. SC/Turbo not bolt on. Look at http://maxmods.dyndns.org/. It gives a run down on all mods and you can figure things out from there. Max is not a honda where everything is made to bolt to it. Gotta do leg work and custom work to get the better mods on the max. This was all previously stated but I tried to end it there. Do some research.

 

Thanks champ, thats what I was looking for!

 

None of these bolt-ons give better low-end. You might see a small improvement with the 00VI but that's it.

 

After reading all the posts and some stickies I decided not to worry about the low end because it doesnt seem like much to gain by any mods. Most is in the mid/high end. Maybe after some know how and some cash I will get the 00vi, who knows.

 

I didn't mean it as low end power. It was more of trying to point out there were not really bolt on mods for the car.

 

Not sure if this would apply to the A32 world. But on my A33B, I added a larger MAF housing and coupled it with a SAFCII using sensor in/out #'s, and saw a TREMENDOUS improvement in throttle response. Darkest night/brightest day.

For you guys, you would have to 'bore' your stock MAF since your sensors don't come out and drop into other housings as easily. There are other metrics here that haven't been completely looked at or analyzed, bit for off the line throttle responsiveness this is the mod to do for A33B people, there is not reason at all for you guys to be the exception. Couple that w/ a PFTB, and you should be well on your way.

It could be all my mods compounded on each other helped, but I did notice a very big improvement when the larger housing & SAFC settings were the ONLY thing I changed.

Again, a piggyback AFC & wb is a must.

 

for more low end try jim wolf technologies for an ecu upgrade.

 

Thats for midrange. Refer to my post for actual low end response.

 

what's up with the Allison Stokke avatar? do you know who that is?

 

If you want low end. Stock intake accordian with Resonator and MAF adaptor with Apexi filter. Then swap in a 3.5 bottom end imo.