How do I adjust the timing on my maxima?
05-03-2007, 11:12 AM
#1
How do I adjust the timing on my maxima?
my timing is too advanced, I need to retard it slighty, however, how do I adjust it? someone mentionned to me to play with the distributor cap ( left and right) but where is it?
thanks
i know i know, im such a noob
thanks
i know i know, im such a noob
05-03-2007, 11:18 AM
#2
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It's cool, though you really are such a noob 
Your car uses a distributorless 'coil over' ignition, meaning there is an ignition coil sitting directly atop every cylinder, there are no plug wires or distributor. The ecu sends a signal to each individual ignition coil telling it when to fire, the exact time of that is determined by pre-set maps stored in the ecu and varies depending on input from various sensors, there is no adjustment for timing on the 4th gen. Why do you say your timing is to advanced?
Your car uses a distributorless 'coil over' ignition, meaning there is an ignition coil sitting directly atop every cylinder, there are no plug wires or distributor. The ecu sends a signal to each individual ignition coil telling it when to fire, the exact time of that is determined by pre-set maps stored in the ecu and varies depending on input from various sensors, there is no adjustment for timing on the 4th gen. Why do you say your timing is to advanced?
05-03-2007, 11:19 AM
#3
first problem what makes you think you have to much timing?? next thing you have no dist. cap cause there is no distrubutor its computer controlled from cam and crank POS sensors never mess with timing unless you have scanned you computer to see exactly what its doing i.e excessive knock retard blah blah blah
05-03-2007, 11:22 AM
#4
o.k.. the situation is, awhile back, I was having starting issues, therefore, my mechanic thought it was a timing issue, therefore, the timing was "advanced".. got the car back, didn't resolve the issue.. a few weeks pass by, I discover the problem , corrected it, but never re-corrected the timing to what it was.. therefore, now, I have starting issues, to the point it destroyed my starter.. I replaced the starter, but the timing is still off ( i need to retard the timing).. how do I do that?
thanks again guys
thanks again guys
05-03-2007, 11:30 AM
#5
NO timing isnt your problem the starter needs to get a proper ground source from either the subframe or body hook a ground cable from either starting mounting bolt using 4 gauge cable to the body or subframe maxima's have a crappy 16 gauge cable for the trans case to the body the main ground attaches to the motor so its pretty much usless to the starter over time
05-03-2007, 11:45 AM
#6
Disco Biscuit
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Oh, and theres no way to adjust ther timing on the 4th gens unless you go with an aftermarket ECU
05-03-2007, 02:11 PM
#7
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Originally Posted by Digitized
, my mechanic thought it was a timing issue, therefore, the timing was "advanced"..
thanks again guys
thanks again guys
05-03-2007, 03:00 PM
#8
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Digitiaed, def. run from that mechanic, or actually ***** him out for lieng to you. and clearly you didn't get it from my first post that the timing is not adjustable and your mechanic did not adjust your timing.
was that a question or a statement? because their are options other than an ecu.
Originally Posted by Whitemax
Oh, and theres no way to adjust ther timing on the 4th gens unless you go with an aftermarket ECU
05-03-2007, 03:43 PM
#9
You need read the codes from the ecu, because if it is really having problems like you say, there is likely something wrong that can be easilly identified. Also how exactly would "poor timing" kill your starter? Your starter most likely died of natural causes. This mechanic of yours is trying to feed you bull****. Don't take your car to him anymore.
Go check the codes with a screw driver, and report back.
Go check the codes with a screw driver, and report back.
05-03-2007, 04:11 PM
#10
Originally Posted by slinky87
NO timing isnt your problem the starter needs to get a proper ground source from either the subframe or body
maxima's have a crappy 16 gauge cable for the trans case to the body the main ground attaches to the motor so its pretty much usless to the starter over time
Oh yea, punctuation is your friend.
05-03-2007, 05:06 PM
#13
well, what I did so far is install the new starter, reset the ecu and so far so good...
so if I understand correctly, the "timing" will be self adjusted by the ECU itself once it is reseted and sees that the car has a new starter ( or in this case a funtionnal starter)?
oh yeah, due to the "starter" didn't want to crank this morning, after changing it to a good starter, before resetting the ECU the code was 0407, and according to the stickies, it has relation with the starter.. so far, after resetting the ECU, no codes yet...
so if I understand correctly, the "timing" will be self adjusted by the ECU itself once it is reseted and sees that the car has a new starter ( or in this case a funtionnal starter)?
oh yeah, due to the "starter" didn't want to crank this morning, after changing it to a good starter, before resetting the ECU the code was 0407, and according to the stickies, it has relation with the starter.. so far, after resetting the ECU, no codes yet...
05-03-2007, 07:53 PM
#14
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The timing will always be self adjusted by the ecu, the starter has absolutely no affect on that, but yeah your good.
And you are correct, crankshaft position code is often caused by a problem with the starter or starter circuit, no need to worry or replace it if it went away.
And you are correct, crankshaft position code is often caused by a problem with the starter or starter circuit, no need to worry or replace it if it went away.
05-03-2007, 08:18 PM
#15
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Dude If you Have starting issues, try running a wire from the - batttery terminal to the one of the bolts to the starter and one to the bellhousing. Fixed my problems when i had my starting issues.
05-03-2007, 08:43 PM
#16
Replace your Crankshaft position sensor if the problem doesn't go away. It would explain why it is hard to start. It may just need cleaning actually. sometimes little metal shavings and crap get stuck to it, and that messes it up. Mine had shavings stuck all over it. That explains why your mechanic told you it was a timing issue, but it seems he was too stupid to just replace the damn POS. I have never seen a starter issue cause the POS code to come up, but I guess i don't have as much experience as other people here. But definately replace it if the code comes back. (it's not hard or expensive either)
05-03-2007, 09:04 PM
#17
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Originally Posted by the_3d_man
Replace your Crankshaft position sensor if the problem doesn't go away. It would explain why it is hard to start. It may just need cleaning actually. sometimes little metal shavings and crap get stuck to it, and that messes it up. Mine had shavings stuck all over it. That explains why your mechanic told you it was a timing issue, but it seems he was too stupid to just replace the damn POS. I have never seen a starter issue cause the POS code to come up, but I guess i don't have as much experience as other people here. But definately replace it if the code comes back. (it's not hard or expensive either)
02-07-2008, 05:36 PM
#19
First, the last post: 05-04-2007 12:04 AM
Second: No such thing as adjustable cam gears for the VQ, but even if they had been developed and released for the VQ35 the chances of having VQ30 gears? Extremely improbable.
In any case, fail.
Cam-crank timing != ignition timing.
Here's a nice little excerpt from Crane's site about ign vs cam timing:
Ignition Timing vs. Valve Timing
Frequently, our phone techs get inquiries from our customers about what ignition timing to run with a given camshaft. Sometimes, they ask about how ignition timing relates to valve timing (cam timing). The answers to these questions are difficult because there is really no way to answer their questions with the limited amount of information provided.
First of all, ignition timing is the timing of the spark plug firing with respect to piston position in the cylinder. Valve timing is the point expressed in degrees of crankshaft position at which the intake valve opens (IO) and closes (IC) and when the exhaust valve opens (EO) and closes (EC). Ignition timing has nothing to do with valve timing and everything to do with cylinder pressure, flame speed in the combustion chamber, air/fuel ratio and piston position. Valve timing is totally independent of these factors. While the ignition distributor is driven by the camshaft (or the ECU determines piston position based on a camshaft/crankshaft position sensor), ignition timing is independent of when the valves open or close.
Admittedly, camshafts with significant overlap (and low idle vacuum) usually require more initial timing at idle. However, total timing at WOT or part throttle cruise is independent of valve timing. If more timing is added at idle (to make the idle stronger), it must be subtracted from the mechanical (RPM based) advance to achieve proper part throttle and full throttle ignition timing. If this adjustment is not made, detonation and resultant engine damage is possible.
Proper ignition timing is dependent on compression ratio, combustion chamber design, air/fuel ratio at various loads and speeds, exhaust scavenging characteristics, and vehicle power-to-weight ratio. These factors all affect flame speed in the combustion chamber and when the ignition should be fired to maximize combustion pressure just after TDC.
Determining proper ignition timing at idle and under all part throttle and WOT conditions is extremely complex and should be handled by an experienced "tuner."Â It is not unusual to require several "tuning adjustments" before a timing "curve" is "dialed in."Â This is a situation where patience and perseverance can pay huge dividends in performance and dependability.
Frequently, our phone techs get inquiries from our customers about what ignition timing to run with a given camshaft. Sometimes, they ask about how ignition timing relates to valve timing (cam timing). The answers to these questions are difficult because there is really no way to answer their questions with the limited amount of information provided.
First of all, ignition timing is the timing of the spark plug firing with respect to piston position in the cylinder. Valve timing is the point expressed in degrees of crankshaft position at which the intake valve opens (IO) and closes (IC) and when the exhaust valve opens (EO) and closes (EC). Ignition timing has nothing to do with valve timing and everything to do with cylinder pressure, flame speed in the combustion chamber, air/fuel ratio and piston position. Valve timing is totally independent of these factors. While the ignition distributor is driven by the camshaft (or the ECU determines piston position based on a camshaft/crankshaft position sensor), ignition timing is independent of when the valves open or close.
Admittedly, camshafts with significant overlap (and low idle vacuum) usually require more initial timing at idle. However, total timing at WOT or part throttle cruise is independent of valve timing. If more timing is added at idle (to make the idle stronger), it must be subtracted from the mechanical (RPM based) advance to achieve proper part throttle and full throttle ignition timing. If this adjustment is not made, detonation and resultant engine damage is possible.
Proper ignition timing is dependent on compression ratio, combustion chamber design, air/fuel ratio at various loads and speeds, exhaust scavenging characteristics, and vehicle power-to-weight ratio. These factors all affect flame speed in the combustion chamber and when the ignition should be fired to maximize combustion pressure just after TDC.
Determining proper ignition timing at idle and under all part throttle and WOT conditions is extremely complex and should be handled by an experienced "tuner."Â It is not unusual to require several "tuning adjustments" before a timing "curve" is "dialed in."Â This is a situation where patience and perseverance can pay huge dividends in performance and dependability.
02-07-2008, 11:51 PM
#22
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