Today I attempted to clean my throttle body, it has a ton of miles and im sure it has never been cleaned. I did it on my old car at 64k miles and it made a major difference so with a car 3 times the miles it has got to make an even bigger change. Is there a simple way to actually get to the TB? From what I saw you had to take the whole intake and air box out and disconnect a bunch of hoses. I got as far as taking out the air box and there was a really stubborn screw i couldnt get without stripping.

Am I being retarded or is there a much easier way to access it?

Thanks!

 

i just did this and taking off the MAF and air intake was really easy. There are only like 2 or 3 screws and 2 hoses to disconnect. it all comes off as on big piece pretty much. Theres no need to disconnect the MAF from the air intake.

 

I can have my intake off with the turn of one bolt in about 10 seconds

 

(I've only done the TB bit so far )
(Instructions have been reposted I think from 2damizzax)
How to clean TB and IAC Valve

Before and after pics of my Cefiro at 260km's. My car would die on cold startup sometimes unless I held the revs.. now idles at 900 so will adjust it back down with the idle screw (had to adjust up in first place due to low idle)





Tool required:
ratchet
10m socket
12mm socket
flathead or 8mm socket
pliers or vise grips
1 can of Throttle Body cleaner
1 can of Carb cleaner (I find Berrymans B12 to work fastest)
new throttle body gasket
new IAC Valve Gasket (dealer only)

1) disconnect battery. unclip airbox, unplug MAF Sensor, use pliers to slide clamps holding hoses to airbox down and slide off hoses, use flathead or 8mm socket to loosen clamp holding air tube to throttle Body, remove 10mm socket on side of airbox holding it down and remove air intake assembly.

2) move throttle to fully open position, lift throttle cables one at a time forward and wiggle out of the TB (towards the left of the TB). Unplug 2 Throttle Position Sensor Plugs.

3) remove the 4 12mm bolts holding the TB to the plenum

4) on the bottom of the TB there will either be 2 or 3 hoses attatched. use pliers to slide clamps down and remove hoses. make sure your radiator cap is still on or engine coolant will start to flow out. If hoses have seized on, use flathead to pry the top and break the seal

5) Remove throttle body. scrape old gasket from both surfaces. clean entire buttefly plate (both faces) and cylinder. there should be no black when done. use only tb cleaner as carb cleaner will remove teflon coating which can later lead to faster corrosion and/or deposit formation

7) remove 10mm bolt holding EGR Temp Sensor plug to the IAC Valve. (hard to see so you may have to feel around the firewall side for it) It is the only plug of the 4 not directly attatched to the IAC Valve body

8) remove 3 12mm bolts holding IAC Valve to the plenum and remove IAC Valve. Remove old gasket (no need for scraping as it is a metal gasket).

9) spray/wipe the entire inside of the triangular face clean. Spray the inside of the brass housing clean of all deposits. spray base of Idle screw clean to ensure no carbon deposits remain. Be liberal with the spray.

10) replace gaskets and reassemble in reverse order. make sure when attatching the air tube to the TB you tighten the clamp. a loose clamp = a small vacuum leak that probably cant be heard but will be felt (high idle).

before reassmebling, some like to spray remaining tb cleaner/carb cleaner into the plenum to clean it up. This is usually a waste of time since oil coming from the PCV will quickly muck it up again but pooled cleaner may help clean downstream intake when you start it back up. not enough to make a bg difference but hey. If you do this, dont be alarmed by the blue smoke at startup (oil and sludge being burned off). Start the car, take it for a short run to blow any remaining cleaner out and you are done.

 

this is REAL easy. pop the hood and it takes 5 seconds to see what u have to take off to get to the TB (requires air filter, couple vacuum lines, couple radiator hoses, and a sensor or 2. have a can of 'throttle body cleaner' from autozone or wherever. i dont recommend carb cleaner cuz it might eat your chit away plus throttle body cleaner worked fine for me gettin all the deposits out anyway. spray the TB and intake enough to loosen everything up a little then use toothbrush. the only thing u must be real careful of is the thin fiber-like gasket that rests between intake and TB. DO NOT get anything on this when spraying and have a rag with some water handy in case to wipe off overspray. it took me about 10 or so turns to get my car to start afterwards and a couple of high idles at stops..but i think she is happy i cleaned her out a little...if only i could get to the bass-turd egr clogs as easy...

 

If it's your first time and you have high miles on it (100k+) I'd suggest goin to the local dealer and getting a new gasket that goes between the throttle body and the intake manifold. Just a few bucks.

Then just remove the 4 bolts holding the TB to the manifold. This way you get full access to both sides of the TB valve. The old gasket usually breaks when you do this, hence the need for a new one.

 

what about the IACV, there is no gasket there just a metal plate, so no need to replace, just clean and reinstall, is that correct ?

 

ive heard a lot of problems about IACV valve having problems after its been removed...i'd like to hear other peoples experience on how car runs b4 then after..cuz i was going to take it off as well when i did the TB but didnt want to risk. im sure it NEEDS cleaning but afraid to mess with it until i know for sure

 

i don't see another way to clean it, mine needs to be cleaned as my idle is at around 550 rpm hot/no load, there is no other way to clean it.

yes it will stay high for a few hours or even days but it SHOULD come back to normal if u re-installed everything properly. this is the common answer i get when i read about people asking the same thing u r asking.

some time this summer i plan on taking off my TB and IACV at the same time for a thorough cleaning the way it is supposed to be cleaned. before i do this i do not want to "hide" the problem by adjusting the idle screw. if all else fails and idle stays high for more than a week then simply adjust the screw.

this may be because the previous owner had a low idle with a dirty IACV and adjusted the idle screw higher thus hiding the problem. after u clean it the screw it still high as well as the idle. u will never know untill u try it.

i have seen many write ups on doing this but none had any amount of detailed pics, i plan on shooting the whole process (will try to utilize my GF as a camera woman cause i dont want to waste time cleaning my hands and taking pictures very often)...

 

lol i hear ya. just have some papertowels with ya

 

http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/517

Use this link. It has pictures and tells you how to clean your TB.

 

thats without taking it off, u will get the best results by taking it off is what i was told

 

Write up provided above - job done.

 

Thanks for all the help. I did it todayand it was much easier this time. I just took the four MAS bolts off the box and the rest slide right out with the removal of a few clamps.

My TB actually wasnt that dirty... maybe the previous owner got around to it. There was some grime on it but not nearly as bad as some other ones that ive seen. The biggest improvement will be from cleaning my MAS screen, it had a bunch of particles lodged up in it and the silver screen was black.