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120 Amp Fuse

Old May 19, 2007 | 03:24 PM
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120 Amp Fuse

I was trying to drill a hole into the upper radiator support bar so I can place a bolt and nut for that bracket that holds the radiator and the damn drill hit one of the main wiring harnesses. I checked the wires and no wires were cut but some taping was required. The worst wire looked like a 4 gauge power wire. The car turned on but I have no horn, AC, fans, or security. Looking for the culprit I saw that the 120 amp fuse next to the battery is blown.

I think this is the reason why certain electrical components are not working. My question is this fuse a dealer part or can I get it at a store? I don't want to be stuck for a couple of days b/c I have to wait for the dealership.
Old May 19, 2007 | 03:26 PM
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Go to autozone.
Old May 19, 2007 | 04:18 PM
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called autozone. They don't carry it. I can't drive the car b/c the fuse allows the car to charge. That means I'm screwed b/c my battery will die on me.
Old May 19, 2007 | 05:35 PM
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Is it safe to solder a wire between where the fuse broke so it has continuity.
Old May 19, 2007 | 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by speed racer
Is it safe to solder a wire between where the fuse broke so it has continuity.
I wouldn't.. You run the risk of burning up your whole fuse panel.. And possibly your car..
Old May 19, 2007 | 10:23 PM
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seems like someone would carry one of those
Old May 20, 2007 | 04:31 AM
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Originally Posted by TSoprano
I wouldn't.. You run the risk of burning up your whole fuse panel.. And possibly your car..
I don't think its a risk. I know why the fuse blew. Its because the drill spliced right into the wire causing a current to blow the fuse. I pin pointed the wires that had abrasions on the insulation and electrically taped them. Now I'm going to solder the big wire together to make sure it can handle the current.

With that said, the fuse just needs to be bridged so it can work properly. Its also a temporary fix until I can go to the dealership tomorrow.
Old May 20, 2007 | 05:08 AM
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Originally Posted by speed racer
I don't think its a risk. I know why the fuse blew. Its because the drill spliced right into the wire causing a current to blow the fuse. I pin pointed the wires that had abrasions on the insulation and electrically taped them. Now I'm going to solder the big wire together to make sure it can handle the current.

With that said, the fuse just needs to be bridged so it can work properly. Its also a temporary fix until I can go to the dealership tomorrow.
You can think it's not but it most certainly is a risk to jump a 120amp fuse. It's there for a reason and circumventing it can mean a quick death for your vehicle's electronics. Have a friend give you a ride to the dealer.
Old May 20, 2007 | 05:43 AM
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It didn't work anyway. The proper name for it is 120 amp fusible-link. They sell it on amazon.com, but I'm going to get a friends car today and hit up some places to see if they have it. The good thing is that its not a unique dealer part, but may be hard to find.

I also need to get my car somewhere so I can use an AC outlet to solder the damaged wire. What's the probability of that damaged wire tripping the fuse again?
Old May 20, 2007 | 09:36 AM
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UPDATE:

Got the fuse from R&S Strauss. I couldn't find a butt joint big enough for the 4 guage wire so I improvised and cut two butt joints down the middle and soldered one on the bottom and one on the top than taped it. Car started no problem, I got my radio, security alarm, power mirrors, power windows, power seats, A/C, radiator fans, and rear defroster back. Plus my car is now able to charge.
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