Neo Raven456

iTrader: (5)

I've been through just about the entire fuel/air delivery system and after replacing the FPR and fixing a fuel leak it runs a bit better, but now instead of hesitating and stalling, it hesitates, stalls, and takes awhile to turn on. It'll crank for a good 5-10 seconds and only start if I start giving it some gas while cranking.

So I was wondering could this be the Fuel Pump? Would a Fuel Pump completely go out or can they get to a point where they work intermittently?

I tried checking it myself but to be honest I read what to listen for, and I didn't hear it but i don't really know what I'm looking for to check it. A swirling noise of sorts?

99grnmaxgxe

iTrader: (11)

Since you done everything else, why not finish it?

Fuel pumps can fail if you constantly drive on less than a 1/4 tank of gas.

ArcticW

Do this test. Best done at dusk/night, but at any rate, start your car, turn on your instument lights. Best done after the car has been sitting for a while.Run your engine at 3K or more, if desired. Pay attention to your temp gauge. On its way to the happy middle ,if you see your instrument panel start flickering ,combined with hesitation , that means your ECTS is cooked. That stands for Engine Coolant Temp Sensor,and what this means is that , basically, till you get it fixed, you will have to wait until your car warms up fully to drive it. Once the gauge is at middle, youre good, but before it warms up fully once the temp sensors kick in the engine WILL stall, and will feel like the fuel pump because the fuel supply is being cut by the ECU.

Hope this helps.

slinky87

iTrader: (1)

what? coolant sensors just dont kick in and to answer the original question fuel pumps either work or they dont i doubt its your pump only other things you should double check are when you repaired you fuel line did you cross the feed/return lines with eachother? have you replaced your fuel filter yet? are you positive your vacumline to the fuel pressure regulator isnt damaged in anyway? also have you replaced your catalytic converter yet?

Neo Raven456

iTrader: (5)

Here's a list of the thigns that have been successfully repaired:

Spark Plugs, ECTS, TPS, PCV Valve, Fuel Filter, FPR, Cleaned TB/IACV, ETS.

All the lines are fine and I didn't cross any lines I'm sure. I have a new cat I'll be putting in but I'm not going to put it in until I fix this problem, since this problem is making me run rich I'm probably cooking the one I have.

packerZ

iTrader: (7)

Artic, Excellent response!! Thank you for helping make this forum a resource tool (rather than an "opinion/flame thrower" gazette)!!

slinky87

iTrader: (1)

so did you stop to think the cat you already have is melted becasue you have been running rich? excessive backpressure caused by a melted cat will cauce your car to run rich becauce of the excessive knock retard your getting from lack of exaust flow that would cauce all the symtoms you have

Neo Raven456

iTrader: (5)

I did think about that but I wasn't sure if the excessive back pressure would be enough to cause this drastic of symptoms. Also wouldn't a melted cat throw a code? I'm codeless, as well as ghost codeless

slinky87

iTrader: (1)

the rear o2 sensor is iffy ive seen completley F*&** cat's before with no codes thrown for them even though the rear 02 sensor was in its one of those things you can always check it youreself take the 2 14mm bolts off the cat and tug the s*** oudt of the pipe till it comes loose and take a flashlight and look for a clear passageway but its hard to tell still cauce theres no light coming thorough the other end hope this helps some

Neo Raven456

iTrader: (5)

Well I have an entire Y-Pipe/Cat/GReddy SP2 system in my house waiting to go on, I think I'll just swap that this weekend and see if it fix's the problem. If not, I'll swap it off so i don't do any harm to my expensive parts XD

slinky87

iTrader: (1)

sounds good

maxgtr2000

iTrader: (29)

What about testing the maf or checking the injectors? When was the last time you changed the spark plugs? Have you tried to pull codes?

Neo Raven456

iTrader: (5)

I tested and regrounded the MAF, and all the injectors are firing.

your second question was answered in the fifth post, and your third in the eighth

nlmaxima

iTrader: (10)

The best time to do this test is in the morning on the first start. If you were using your car in the evening and tried the test at dusk or early night then your car may not of fully cooled down so early morning is the best time to do it , colder the better,

slinky87

iTrader: (1)

he's already replaced the ECTS !!! have you checked your TPS values yet?

Neo Raven456

iTrader: (5)

Yep TPS has been replaced and recalibrated to correct voltage

Neo Raven456

iTrader: (5)

I'm taking the car to a local shop tomorrow and I'm going to quote them on a price to replace all exhaust bolts and hangars. To make my life easier when I swap the exhaust and check the cat.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Mine's been gutted for 6 months+, no CEL for catalyst efficiency. Of course, I also have a '95, which are known to be a lot more lenient for emissions stuff...

Neo Raven456

iTrader: (5)

Took it to my shop, they said to change the exhaust bolts it would cost $45-75 depending on what it looks like when they get it in the air.

And as for the stalling/fuel delivery problem he said since its intermittent and there are no codes they won't be able to accurately diagnose the problem without spending loads of time on it. So, it's now time to brainstorm heh. I think I might invest in a data logging program for my laptop, plug it in and stick it under my seat, and then review the data that might help pinpoint the problem.

Any ideas on the problem? I'm looking for anything really

Neo Raven456

iTrader: (5)

Had a thought today. Spark plugs were the first thing I replaced, could it be that I fixed the problem along the way but took long enough to foul up the new plugs?

I pulled them today and here's what they look like, I don't know enough to diagnose plugs





Measured that all gaps were correct as well

slinky87

iTrader: (1)

plugs look ok how long have you had them in? a ideal color for your plugs is a tanish color the white, grayish, buildup is usually a symptom of a rich condition. meaning theres been to much fuel going along with my original guess about your cat needing to get replaced

maximaxgtr

iTrader: (1)

I have a weird problem with my car, and I'm suspecting its a bad fuel pump or at least my fuel pump is not working properly. I don't want to buy a new fuel pump and realize that my part was still good.

Basically, the car hasn't been driven for 1-2 weeks already, so my battery died, which is understandable. The car probably has like 2-3 gallons left in the gas tank. Or at least I think it does? Even if it had only 1 gallon, I'm sure I could start the car, correct?

So anyway, I try to crank the car does try to start, but it refuses to. After cranking it a few times, the engine did start for like 2-3 seconds, you can smell the gas out of the muffler, then as soon as I hit the gas pedal, the car dies immediately. If I don't hit the gas pedal, the car engine turns on for 5-6 seconds and then stalls and dies.

I tried removing the fuse of the fuel pump and obviously I know the car will not start. Tried cranking it a few times, and of course it just keeps on cranking. I put back the fuse of the fuel pump, it cranks like as if the fuse was removed, with the exception that sometimes, the car will start for 2-3 seconds and then die out like i mentioned before.

So right now, I'm not sure what part or parts to buy. Should I just buy a OEM fuel pump replacement off eBay and just go with that and cross my fingers? I really doubt a clogged fuel filter could cause this, since that was done 30k miles ago. What it seems like is that it has something to do with fuel.

Any suggestions/help would be appreciated.

Thanks alot guys.

-Stephen

Neo Raven456

iTrader: (5)

would riched out plugs cause the car to do what its doing?

MaximaMaximum

You can go to this site it's nissan fuel pumps for additional information and help regarding your problem.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Add a few gallons of gas first, you'd be suprised, due to the design of our pumps/pickups for some odd reason they don't like to start after sitting for a few weeks if there is an 1/8th tank or less. If it turns out you do need a fuel pump let me know, I have several of them and will be going to NED within the next few weeks, but I'm about 99% sure that you will feel like an idiot once you add some gas, ask me how I know........